CF.Panda

By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol

I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can. should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.

Yea got me coppers. Bad news is I just put them in and the car still has the light and shakes. I also noticed I hear like rattling coming from the exhaust piping right under me. Does 21 also have a possibility of being O2 sensors? So, coil packs are good, the harness is good, the MAF is working, and obviously the spark plugs just replaced and working.

I'll get one of these also just for giggles

I bought 6 new spark plugs to compare readings. They will be here tomorrow and ill see if meter is far off if it all. I know one is at least reading 0 so its best replace all anyway if one is bad, from experience. I still have to test the harness just to be sure its not a double issue and I waste my time haha-the old plugs are iridium I always thought those lasted more than 50,000 km.

Update: tested my spark plugs that are supposed to be 5ohms with a 10% deviation and one gave me a 0 ohms reading and the rest were 3.9ohm<, so one bad and the others on their way out.

AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.

I tried the next one up from 600k ohms which is 60M on my multimeter and all readings came out as 0.00 ohms so right now the most accurate is 600k ohms with only a 0.1 ohms difference between coils. Three coils read 1.4 ohms and the other three read 1.5 ohms.

I attached the image of the only thing I found, nothing to do with ohms in the manual only torque values etc. However, being they are so close to each other I am almost certain they are good. Tomorrow I will test the spark plugs while I am there. and look at the ECU connections.

On the 600k Ohms: 1.4 Ω 1.4 Ω 1.4 Ω 1.5 Ω 1.5 Ω 1.5 Ω

Used 60K in Ohms and got these numbers: 1.45 Ω 1.38 Ω 1.47 Ω 1.43 Ω 1.56 Ω 1.45 Ω I haven't been able to find what the correct range is though so they are within spec /:

Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.

Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.

Just yesterday the car started to shake a bit when idle. So tomorrow ima test the some wires and packs with the multimeter and see what it is. Hopefully is a pack because thats the easiest thing to buy same day here where I live in the USA.

shot myself in the leg and now last night I have shaking when I idle lol

So 10/10 times that code is coil packs? I mean if that's the case ill drop the $400USD or so to replace them. I didn't know these cars threw codes before the issue became an issue.

Yes I have. Probably on my 15x restart.

Hello, first of, I’ve looked at many threads on this code but none have helped me, if you know one that will help me feel free to post a link. Now to my problem. Recently I was driving and noticed the check engine light came on. I went home and did the test to see what code it gave. I got the 21 code but everything seems fine with the car, no misfire, idle is good, acceleration is the same as when I bought it. I mean no signs of obvious failure. If no misfire is happening I can rule out the coil packs right? Which is about 98% of posts saying it is. If anyone has had this happen and found the issues let me know please. No other lights are on. The car WAS due for an oil change. I since then changed it so idk if that triggers code 21. Either way it hasn’t turned off.

It seems to happen only when moving not stationary. It happens more frequently when reversing and turning steering wheel to the right. I MAY have found what the sound is and if it’s that I will feel so dumb since it did start happening around when I put 18” wheels. I attached the image of where there’s a scraping line to that plastic liner and the other side does not have that.

I want to also note I did lift the tire and checked for any play to see if it was a bad tie rod. It doesn't move at all.

Any insight will help find the issue. When I do a sharp turn to the right I hear a screeching sound coming from the front. It only happens turning Right and not Left. Steering fluid seems okay. Not sure what this part is(picture) but one side seemed "wetter" than the other. All bushing from a quick look did not seem damaged. I'll do a better look but wanted to ask here in case it helps me troubleshoot faster.

Hey guys does anybody know the part number for an ER34 4Speed automatic 25GT speed sensor? Can’t find anything online for automatic. Trying to troubleshoot non-working speedometer and was wondering how much they cost if it turns out it’s bad when I get to it.