WetGTR
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Posts posted by WetGTR
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I'm after a second hand GTR R33 gearbox or the internal gear sets.
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Keep the factory BOV's. I still have them on my GTR and it running 600hp at the wheels and does a beautiful job.
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anyne got a return spring from the inspection plate at the top of the gearbox - under the bolt that is bigger then the rest?
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LOOKING FOR A SKYLINE GEARBOX
MUST BE IN GOOD CONDITION
Just wondering, got your old gearbox?
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Wanted to know if anyone has the return spring that goes into the reverse check from the rear extension of the gearbox.
I can't find mine when I rebuilt my gearbox and wanted to know if anyone had a blown or broken gearbox that wouldn't mined selling me this small part.
I have gone to Nissan to buy one but my heart stopped when they said the word "this part is unavailable".....
I went through all the pain of rebuilding my gearbox by myself after I blew 3rd gear and stopped by a small spring.
I know it wouldn't matter if it was from an R32 GTR or R33 GTR but I wonder if its the same for GTS & GTT gearboxes.
Any help would be greatly appreiated.
Adam
Bigger Picture Here
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T04Z strikes again
Yep, knew I was on borrowed time, but what can you do....... but what a rush!!!
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Looking at buying a GTR R33 gearbox as my 3rd synro has blown.
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lower cr = more fuel and air needed to burn?
I have a tricky question......
If only the compression was raised on an engine say 8.2:1 raised to 9:1, what would be the real world results?
Has anyone just raised the compression and found that they have gone from using 16L/100km to 11L/100km?
Keeping in mind that squish plays a part if compression was raised by just using a head gasket.
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I have to agree, always tune for best drivablity and what ever WOT figure you get, thats fine as long as its useable.
Looks like you got the O2 Sensor Autronics recommend. The LSM-11 is a 4-wire wide band as they call it which can be used as a narrow band sensor or a wide band sensor. It will only work wide band connected to an Autronics A/F Meter and when connected to a SM4 which will feed it the 5V and the tuner will use voltage scaling to make it work with close loop control.
I have used both closed loop control and just the target A/F in the map. You would be suprisd at how good the targets are when they are tuned at the correct A/F.
Only problem I have had is that the sensor would only read accurately to 15.5 A/F but could run leaner at certain load points when on cruise. If I disable closed loop and just dial it in at the rpm and load point the A/F I wish to run I could run leaner then when closed loop is enabled.
I not suggesting anything here, just the Autronics is so very accurate and precise - what an awsome ECU.
Is the tuner an Autronics dealer?
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Yes, you can run closed loop on the SMC 1.92. The wide band o2 sensor you got, is it the Bosch item LSM-11? The SM4 will not accept a direct 5-wire wide band sensor, I have confirmed this with Autronics on their forum. It will do a 0-5V o2 sensor with voltage scaling for the A/F readouts. Still a better way then a narrow band 0-1V method
The SM4 has a very flexiable close loop control so will work very well.
What I would do about the plugs is let the tuner replace them but tell them you want them back. Give them a clean the way do did it before (best way I beleive) and stick them straight back in. I don't beileve that they are fouled beyond repair and even if they are, surely not all and even if they all are, well at least you have them back.
Let me know how your fuel consumption goes as I am interested in the results.
Good Luck with the tuning! Post the results
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Sorry, I don't want to high jack the tread but I'm dying to ask!
Wanted to know what everyone's fuel comsumption in from an RB26 with Autronics.
My fuel consumption at this point around 16L/100km's with some city and highway driving, so around 340km per tank.
I'm running an SMC 1.92 with 500R CDI
Im using 800cc injectors with 260in 260ex cams, this is stated as injectors and cam duraction plays a part in fuel economy.
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With regrads to large injectors using more fuel for economy, this is correct as atomisation is not as good as smaller injectors.
The smaller injector atomise better, even more so at light loads.
Injector manufactures have developed single,twin and four pittle injectors to help the spray pattern and atomise the fuel better. This also helps direct the spray towards the rear of both valves in a four valve per cylinder engine.
I have tried this myself and have changed the same injector brand and size from a single pittle injector to a twin pittle version and the twin pittle version ran richer then the single pittle version. This has to do with the above comments mentioned.
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We've found that the ATEN usb to serial to be the best runs everything we've tryed including autronic and datalogit.
Exactly what rob82 says.
Go with the Aten USB to Serial. This item will work.
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For the front, don't you also need caliper offset brackets for AP CP5555 calipers to fit on a GTR with those 375mm rotors and the alloy hats you can get?
When fitting the rear disk - the 340mm, can standard brembo's with say caliper offset brackets be used to allow for these disks?
Basically for a GTR R33 once you have:
Front
AP CP5555
your disk's 375mm
alloy hats (@$350-450)
Caliper offset bracket?
brake lines?
Rear
Standard Brembo Calipers
your disk's 340mm
alloy hats (@$350-450)
Caliper offset bracket?
brake lines?
do you need anything to complete the setup, re: my question of caliper offsets and maybe brake lines?
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Shims should be meaured and adjusted for each valve. This must be checked with a feeler gauge. I wouldn't just swap and hope for the best even if they say its OK. You should be accurate to 0.01mm or very close to this.
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There is a way to do this but will take some time. I can think of 2 ways atm:
1. unbolt the CAS so it can freely move clockwise & anti-clockwise. Get some to crank the car and keep moving it clockwise until it wants to start and if not anti clockwise. If it hasen't started note how much you were able to move the CAS and re-position the CAS in the cam and try again. If you find the point where she starts, move the CAS from the cam until you are able to bolt it up and have some movment.
2. Use a timing light while cranking and see if the marks show up. If not, not the CAS from the crank until the marks up, means your geting very close. This method can also aid the above method.
Just a note, when engine is at TDC (top dead centre) while removing the CAS from the cam, there is a geogon pin that goes through the shaft of the CAS. This pin should be facing directly up or down - one of them will be right. This is good as a starting reference.
Its a bit of messing around but a little time & you'll get it.
There might be a better method, this is just what I have done before.
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You were right on the money there Ash
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I could be wrong here, so someone correct me but the internal one is a prime pump for the external one.
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Right on the number
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Did you move the timing belt at all?
If you didn't the cam sensor has a half moon thing inside the gear that goes into the cam. Make sure its in position and on properly. Adjust to the former position and make sure the cam wiring is in place.
If it dosen't start, try using a timing light to see if your out.
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Hi Shane, the higher lift means the cams have steeper profiles needed to fit the lift (open and close) within the duration (time). This means the valves open and close faster. In addition you have to use higher rate valve springs to make sure that the valves close (follow) the cam lobe’s profile.
So you have faster and harder closing valves. Just like a rapid and heavy hitting hammer, this will eventually wear out the valve seats, pound them flat. In addition you will experience similar wear on the valves themselves. The quickest wear being the seat area where the valve seals on the seat. As this wears, the seat becomes wider and may even leak. Both of these costing noticeable horsepower.
The rapid pounding of the valve heads will eventually fatigue the valve stems around the head mushroom. Given sufficient repetition, the valve head will eventually fall off causing (at the very least) catastrophic damage to the piston and cylinder head.
Also you have faster opening valves with stronger valve springs resisting this opening. This means the cam lobes themselves and the buckets wear out faster. Higher lift also increases the angles on which the lobes affect the buckets. This side loading results in faster wear of the valve stem seals, which will leak oil into the combustion process and cause a loss of power and generally premature detonation.
This rapid wear factor why you don’t see huge horsepower GTR’s making 100’s of ¼ mile passes in a year. This is why you have drag engines that do little real kilometres, able to be built/tuned to make more power than circuit racing engines that have to last a season. An extreme example is a F1 engine, that is very lucky to do 1,000 k’s before a full rebuild is required. Or a top fuel drag engine that does one pass before a full rebuild is required.
So to answer your questions;
1. RB26 valves are already stainless
2. Stronger valve springs actually increase wear, not decrease it. I use valve springs just strong enough to control the valve, make it follow the lobe and resist the targeted boost pressure.
3. Personally in a circuit race engine, I never use cams over 10.3 mm lift to minimise the side loading and the valve seat wear
Hopefully that answered your questions
cheers If your valve train is a wearing factor, what would be the best way to check and test to make sure everything is in good order. I don't think many people at all look at the valve train as something they have to service. What would the best way of testing the valve train to see if its in good health?
How often should the service intervals be?
I understand there is a leak down test you can do, if so, what should it be displaying?
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I'm using a Performance Metalcraft sump 9L. It was recommended by SK and is enlarged on both left, right and front with no clearance issues. I also have the tomei restrictor in the head, a -10 return line from the back of the head to the sump. I am also using the Nismo Oil Pump but previously I was using the JUN oil pump. Both pumps are good.
The sump setup is shown on there website at:
http://www.performancemetalcraft.com.au
Dry sumps sounds like a great thing to do but most GTR's that race here only really use a tomei baffle kit, Jap brand oil pump, restrictor in the head and an extra 1 litre of oil all on a standard sump and no oil issues at all.
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about 580hp, but it will never get those km, if you are on the noise all the time, country cruising at an average pace will might see those kms.
BOBBO, are you saying you have 580hp at the wheels and can still get close to 600km per tank if you took it easy?
If this is the case, what are your mods like, injectors, spark setup, cams.I'd state my conclusion on something that some people might find interesting.
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How many km's out of a tank can you get R32-GTS?
You have big cams and big power levels so I'm very interested to see how or if it is different to other people with stock or slightly modded RB26's.
This would also help in some research I'm doing and I'd be happy to share the results.
cheers 
If this is the case, what are your mods like, injectors, spark setup, cams.
Gtr R33 Gearbox
in Wanted to Buy
Posted
Found one now. Thanks guys for your offers.