RBsileighty
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Posts posted by RBsileighty
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fair enough, no it will be worse because the t2 flange is smaller, therefore choking it up more so then a t3 based flange.
Not true... T25 might actually spool faster due to higher exh velocity due to the smaller cross section... There are plenty of T25 flanges on SR motors that are making very decent power levels with T25 based name brand kits so I would highly doubt it would be a restriction... especially on a RB20. I think there is more to be said for the design of the manifold being a restriction (lots of tight bends etc) than the potential of a T25 restricting flow vs a T3 flange at a GT3037's power level on a RB20.
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I thought it was suppose to be a ground and the signal... it's suppose to be power and signal?
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Had the oil return line kink on the turbo... pfc tuning delayed again (original line... top collapsed)
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The lines were wrong... but still doesn't work. Just to see if it was something mech I pulled the vac line off of the actuator and plugged it. Hit 1 bar... so it's not that...
Makes me think it's wiring. I have the 3 wire connector to the ecu and then the two wires tapped into wire 60 and 25. Anyone have any ideas?
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I have datalogit but it's not hooked up...
There are two ports coming off of the solinoid. Where are your two connections (vac lines) going?
I will try disabling it this morning on my way to work...
Thanks for all of your help!
The car has a FMIC, Apex pod filter and RB25 turbo... those are the only power mods for now (80mm catless exhaust mentioned before). I wanted to see what I can get power wise out of a tune before I put my 270 cams and gears in... plus with what's going on now... that would have just complicated things even more!
EDIT:
Ok... looked at the apex diagram for piping and my assumption was correct... I have the COM and ON ports backwards. I will switch them and let you know after work... hopefully that's my only problem!
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Regulator set at 3 bar with no vac line... stock injectors. I am running a Sard FPR/MKIV Supra Fuel pump/pressure measured with greddy gauge...
The non-working boost controller it kinda getting on my nerves. Where do people have their "com" port connected to?
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I used the same same tables as you for both...
I put the injector percent for all six up to 120% and it idles perfect... just need to get it tuned now so that's only at idle. I did find out that 120 and correction set to 1.2xx+ will make you blow flames under any sort of load on a warm car with no cat!
I can't get the boost controller to do much of anything with the duty cycle at 90 and boost at 1.3 I'm still only hitting .7x... I'll check my lines tonight
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Correction? I'm assuming you are talking about the water temp correction table...
It could be a few thigns.. I'm running a 9:1 comp ratio so I 'may' be able lean her off a little before combustion issues arise when the car is cold; it could be the headwork and combustion chamber design or possibly even how well the injectors atomize the fuel.
I've spent quite a bit of time slowly leaning mine off until i began to feel drivability issues.
As the engine comes up to temp so damn quickly (2km's or a 2-3mins from a cold start) its a very slow process getting the +10, +30 and +50 spot on, I've still got a little work to do on the +50 as it feels as if it could be leaned off a tad more.
Post up your water temp enrichment table..
What cranking inj. values have you settled on?
The PFC shouldn't be loosing any information from the wate temp correction and inj cranking ms tables. If it is there is an issue, which I believe is also covered in the pfc faq. IF however you are playing with the other inj. and timing correction then I wouldn't be fiddling with that as there is no need.
I am running the same cranking and water temp values as you... I'll hopefully get the wideband on and get it sorted this weekend. Nice to have an idle lower than 1000k now... sounds sweet through the 80mm RSR GTII with no cat...
Fogot about that FAQ... I've got some reading to do, thanks!
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She's up and running! Started first shot with standard trim settings... I put in yours, cubes when I got to my first stop in the first drive and it started surging. Still surged and I added fuel to ~1.3 correction and it quit surging. Any thoughts on this one?
How do you control the boost controller? I don't really understand its control screen... and of course the book is japanese.
Thanks again for everyone's help!
Oh... and when I start the car the correction screen is back to 1.0. Is it perm changing my maps (b/c it surges on start up and fixes once the correction factor is set to ~1.3 again)? My Bosch friend's inlaws are gone.... so hopefully I have time to weld in another bung for the wideband and he can help me tune this weekend.
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Ok... I'm back at it. I'm going to install a wideband this week and then I'll get it all dialed in so I'll finally be making more power and merrit the brakes and wheels that took temp priority over the power fc install:
http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/191649
Thanks again for everyone's help! I'll post up the dyno results as soon as I get them... still have two sessions reserved on the dyno... one for the Power FC gains... and one for the 270 deg tomei pro cams (lash type) and tomei cam gears.
Anyone have advise on how to degree the cams without solid lifters?
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Ok... so interesting issue. Nothing was wrong with my wiring... just had to add a ton of fuel for the "cranking" setting and she fired up (~20 for 50 deg C and ~15 for 80 deg C so it wouldn't screw up the interpolation... since the car was at 53 when I started it).
However, it runs great on the stock ecu... but with the AP PFC (R32) it surged a lot... and idled poorly. I was letting it do the "self learn" thing, but it didn't work so well. I'll be doing some reading in the manual...
I'm going to use the PFC Boost Control Kit... I like the idea of a closed loop boost controller setup. I agree with the Pin 25 for the wiring... I'll let you know how it goes, but need to get it running without it first (function is cut off in setup). The AP PFC BCK is a 3 wire plug in and the solinoid wires into the factory harness (had one of the Japanese guys at work read the install book for me to double check... one of the many advantages for being a Nissan engineer!).
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53 is a speed sensor... I'd assume you used 25? Thanks again for the help!
1 Ign signal (power transistor) Cyl #1
2 Ign signal (power transistor) Cyl #5
3 Ign signal (power transistor) Cyl #3
6 Sub electrical fan relay (engine temp switch)
7 Tacometeter speed signal
9 AC relay (AC cut signal)
10 Ground (ign signal system)
11 Ign signal (power transistor) Cyl #6
12 Ign signal (power transistor) Cyl #2
13 Ign signal (power transistor) Cyl #4
16 ECCS relay
19 Power steering oil pressure switch
20 Ground (ignition signal system)
21(RX) Receive (control unit data reception)
22 (TX) Transmit (data sent from control unit)
23 Detonation sensor 1 (cyl 1-3)
24 Detonation sensor 2 (cyl 4-6)
25 Wastegate valve control solenoid valve
26 Air flow meter ground
27 Air flow meter intake air quantity signal
28 Engine temp sensor
29 Exhaust temp sensor
30 Sensor ground
32 Monitor and check lamp (red)
34 Air flow meter ground
35 Air flow meter inatek air quantity signal
36 Intak air temp sensor
38 Throttle opening output
41 Crank angle sensor (120degree signal)
42 Crank angle sensor (1 degree signal)
43 Ignition switch START signal
44 Neutral switch
45 (IGN) Ignition switch (IGN)
46 AC switch
47 (CHK) Check (diagnosis activation)
48 Throttle sensor power supply supply
49 Control unit power supply
50 Ground (control unit)
51 Crank angle sensor (120 degree signal)
52 Crank angle sensor (1 degree signal)
53 Vehicle speed sensor
54 Throttle valve switch (idle connection point)
55 Exhaust gas sensor (rear)
56 Throttle sensor output signal
57 Throttle valve switch power supply
58 Battery power supply
59 Control unit power supply
60 Ground (control unit)
101 Injector #1
102 - 110 Injector #5
103 Injector #3
104 Fuel pump terminal voltage control output
105 Injector #2 106 Fuel pump terminal voltage control output
107 Injector ground 115 -
108 Injector ground 116 Injector ground
109 Injector power supply (counter electromotive reflex circuit)
112 Injector 6
114 Injector 4
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if you dont have the boost kit installed u need to turn it off go to the menu and make sure its on a littlew + symbol,,,and to wire it in you need to splice the 2 wire plug into the wireing loom onto terminals 60 and 53 i think i cant remmeber since i did mine ages ago....oh and a tip dont use a power fc boost kit they suck
Ehh... already ordered it, so I'll use it. Thanks for the wiring tip since I'd never have figured that out! Do you know what wires those are suppose to be?
I'm going to look back through my wiring to double check if it's right or not... it's a RB20 in a S13
Here are some pics of the car... waiting to install my 270 int/exh cams and gears for after the power FC install as I want a step by step improvement for each mod (baseline was 166rwhp for baseline, but I think the stock ecu is confused with the RB25 turbo, FMIC, 80mm turbo back (I made the front section... RSR GTII catback with no cat), and Apex pod filter). My baseline was done on a Dynapack, which I have 2 more sessions reserved and waiting... one with the Power FC/boost controller (hitting boost cut at 6500 @ 0.85bar) and the next with the cams. My CE28N's and Stoptechs are also waiting on my front hubs... but that's not power related...
Here are some pics of the car... thanks for the help!
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Car runs fine on stock ecu... power fc lights up etc but just cranks forever... advice?
Also installing boost kit 415-a001 but can't find where to install solinoid wires (two prong plug with nowhere to connect).
Any help is greatly appreciated!
Already init the power fc... didn't change anything
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No fun... but it might be worth picking up a second ecu and sending it to them... I wonder how much more that would cost.
Thanks Roy!
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I was wondering if anyone who knows ECU's and ECU protocol info could help me figure out if we can use this with a skyline ECU (particularly a silver top RB20):
http://www.aimsports.com/products/mxl-chooser.html
It would be nice to get rid of a lot of gauges and clean things up... data logging wouldn't be to bad either.
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I don't really go in any of the other forums to often... so I thought I'd share the info here with the people I do know... you can lock this if you want, but here goes:
I just got an offer today to work with Nissan's Tech center as a Body Systems Engineer!
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well I'm getting a full twin system shortly....
63mm thin walled stainless, straight from each of the TRUST extended dumps.
it should make a little more power and also sound fantastic..
If anyone has sound files of duals... I'd love to hear them... however, ground clearance is point #1 for me since my Kei Office puts things really close to the ground. Not much could be louder than my 3" RS*R with no resonator and no cat so anything on dB limiting will be an improvement.
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Very interesting everyone... does anyone have any sound files? My RS*R 3" kit is stupid loud the way it is... sounds good but it'll take the fillings in your teeth out if you have any. Sounds like I'm definitely going dual ...
Here's how mine sounds now... RS*R 3"
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Has anyone run dual exhaust on their cars at all? I am looking into running dual 60mm or 65mm exhaust due to my 80mm setup is scraping quite a bit due to my ride height.
Since the effective area is vital I can't just do two 40mm pipes to equal one 80mm pipe (2*40mm = 2513mm^2 vs 1*80mm = 5026mm^2), so two 60mm or 65mm pipes should work... just thought I'd point that out if anyone asked why so big for two... easily overlooked.
So what I was thinking is run one 80mm dump down to a Y-pipe that split into 2 60 or 65mm pipes all the way back... either exiting with two or converging back to one around the diff since it doesn't hit the ground due to the wheel.
Any experiences or ideas?
Another idea is to run oval... but it might be hard to find some pipe let alone a muffler.
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Wow... sorry carl... didn't read before quincy's post... of course that was you I was talking about.
I never knew starting this thread would lead to 36+ pages of postings! This is awesome for the 20 guys!
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Hi Guys,
Got my car back with results.
GT3071
Apexi PFC
Apexi FMIC
full exhaust
cold air intake and shield
GTR injectors
040 fuel pump
254.6 RWKW on 22psi
all on standard internals, so hoping it lasts a little while at least as it is heaps of fun..
I'd look into some cams... guy here stateside just put down 386 rwhp (~288rwkw) on a 30R with similar mods plus cams, gears, and intake mani... I would imagine that power level is attainable with the 3071 as well. What RPM is that where you are hitting 15psi? With full exhaust... do you have a converter in there too?
Nice setup by the way!
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Whatever happened with this build? Any updates?
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If someone has or could snap some pics of their front suspension with the wheel off of their GTR (32 prefered) I would greatly appreciate it.
Rb20 With T25 High Mount Mani
in Forced Induction Performance
Posted
Justa32... .73 is your AR? What's your complete setup? I don't think you'll run into a choke flow situation at the exhaust with the power levels you'll probably be hitting at any RPM... chances are you'll have a restriction earlier in your engine's air flow before the T25 flange becomes to small. Proper manifold design is key to maximize both your mass flow and your gas velocity so again I think the manifold itself or even the head would be a restriction before the cross section of the flange needs to be bigger (unless it's compensating for a really bad manifold design).
I'm no expert, but I hope this helps...