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Aztec

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Posts posted by Aztec

  1. I did a compression test today on the old girl and things seem a little wierd. I was only getting 800kPa (give or take 10-15 between the 6 cylinders) when the manual said I should be reading 1177kPa. Because the 6 are so similar does that mean the previous owner has reduced the compression? Also does that indicate there were bigger turbos running high boost in the past?

    I keep finding these little clues that suggest my car has been seriously modded, then changed back to stock before it came to Aus. The intercooler pipe that runs next to the block (with the writing on it) had loose nuts, one was about to come off!!

    Any opinions on the low compression?

  2. I don't know much about these engines, but mine did a similar thing when I changed the plugs recently. Check the connection on the cdi at the back of your engine, mine was not on properly and ran like a dog. You could notice the difference when you wiggle the connection at the back.

    Hope this helps!

  3. Thanks to the people who replied, we need more though. Was at the drags last night and saw two other gtr's, one pretty wild 33 and another 32. Only briefly chatted with them, don't know if they're forum members or not.

    Was a pretty good night though, I cracked a 12.801 with my relatively stock car on worn radials!!!

  4. Townsvillians,

    Those who drive the mighty Skylines make yourself known! For the benefit of everyone in the 'ville I think we should meet up and organise a cruise somewhere. For too long commondores and falhoons have ruled our roost, it's time to take it back!!!

    My name's Aaron and I recently bought a silver R32 GT-R with white rollers. If you see me driving around give me a wave :)

    We should exploit the cold air for the short period of time when mother nature is on our side, so lets go for a drive somewhere and show the ford and holden boys/girls who's boss!!

    Azza

  5. This might be a silly question to some and might have been covered before, (sorry can't find the post) but what do the units stand for on the standard gtr boost guages? (mm/mercury or something like that) What do these units equate to, and what boost does a standard gtr make (.7bar???)

    Help appreciated!

    Azza

  6. Originally Posted by TommO

    However, I don't "baby" like driving fifth gear at 60km/hr, more cruise at 2500rpm or so... wouldn't driving at low revs / high gear under load put lots of stress on the engine and if it's cold, do more damage than good?

    It will do more damage to the gearbox if you drive in top gear under 2000rpm, even when the engine is warm. Try and stay above around 2000rpm when cruising even when babying it to get it warm, change at around 2500-3000rpm off boost.

  7. I did a quick search and couldn't find any info on what oils to use in my 32 GTR.

    I want to change the gearbox and diff oils this weekend and was wondering if anyone can recommed some oil to use (viscosity also). My service manual recommends 75w-90 for gearbox, 85w-90 for front diff and 80w-90 for rear lsd.

    If anyone knows better please let me know.

    Thankya!

  8. My light also seems to come on from time to time. When I start the car it stays on for a couple of hundred meters, then when I tip into conrners it comes on again, and sometimes when I give it a boot full in a straight line. Weird?? I have the standard wheel so I assume the boss kit hasn't been tampered with...

    Does anyone know if the light is meant to come on whislt cornering?

  9. Guys you can run a hicas diagnostic by following these steps:

    Procedure:

    ➢ Switch ignition off, transmission in neutral or auto in Park.

    ➢ Start engine

    ➢ Very quickly (with a couple of seconds), turn the steering wheel left and right about 20

    degrees from centre five times, and then pump the brakes five times, then press the

    brake pedal once more this will enter diagnostic mode.

    ➢ Drive forwards or backwards about 5 metres at a speed less than 10km/hr, this will

    enter full diagnostic mode.

    ➢ The HICAS light in the instrument cluster will be flashing quickly (for normal) or will

    flash a code indicating any problems.

    ➢ Long flash = first digit, short flash = second digit.

    ➢ Diagnostics will return to normal after five minutes, or any speed over 10km/hr,

    or ignition is turned off.

    The codes are as follows:

    HICAS Diagnostic Codes 1989-1993

    1 HICAS solenoid right hand

    2 HICAS solenoid left hand

    3 Cut off valve

    4 Power steering solenoid

    5 Vehicle speed sensor

    6 Steering angle sensor

    7 Neutral position sensor

    8 (Auto) Parking brake sensor,

    (Manual) Clutch sensor

    9 (Auto) Inhibitor switch,

    (Manual) Neutral sensor

    HICAS Diagnostic Codes 1993-1999

    11 HICAS control unit

    12 HICAS motor power supply not present

    13 HICAS motor output not present

    21 Vehicle speed sensor not present

    22 Steering angle sensor not present

    23 Steering angle sensor neutral or not present

    24 Rear main sensor input not present

    25 Rear sub sensor input not present

    31 Parking brake sensor input not present

    32 (Auto) Inhibitor switch input not present

    (Manual) Neutral switch input not present

    33 Engine speed signal not present

    Hope this helps!

  10. Letting it go for $24,000 on the road (ie including compliancing and 1year rego @ roughly $1000 in QLD)

    Car will be arriving and complied in Brisbane.

    For you inter-state guys, I'm sure I could arrange something to get it to you, but it would have to factor in the price.

    Not sure about mods and brand names on it, will find out and let you know when it arrives

  11. This white 4dr is on its way over, due to land end of the month. Taking interest now.

    The details I have are:

    1995 R33 Second Model That Year ( different tail lights )

    GTR grill and Bumper

    Tein Suspension Height Adjustable

    Fuji Tsubo Muffler

    Transmission overhaul

    17" Alloys

    Body Kit

    97xxx k's

    I will have more details when it arrives...

  12. Bill,

    I own an 90' R32 GTR with 67000ks in it and its pretty much stock. It's great as a daily driver as it an R33 gtst, which my friend owns with similar mods and a PFC. Of the two mine feels more solid in all areas with the flexibility of 4 or 2 wheel drive. In a straight line his gtst gets me with a rolling start only due to his mods and higher boost pressure. The gtst has more urgency mid range to top end, with mine coming on boost sooner and much smoother running out a little right at the top.

    It also depends on whether you want to do work on them in the future, GTR (in my slightly tainted oppinion) = more potential!!

    Try and drive them both before you make any decisions.

    Good luck with the choice.

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