Jump to content
SAU Community

george.bryant

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    341

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    0%

 Content Type 

Posts posted by george.bryant

    Warning!

    in Classics (1953-1988)

    Posted · Edited by george.bryant

    :laughing-smiley-014: well he couldnt even sell it in the first place.

    f**k off Benny. Whats your problem?

    I got offered $1800 i'll put it on trademe and give it a shot.

    Warning!

    in Classics (1953-1988)

    Posted

    About a year ago I "upgraded" (well what i thought was an upgrade), to a Bosch GT40T Coil.

    For the last few weeks i havnt been able to drive my car because the spark over 3000rpm was so weak it would run rich as and die on me.

    I jsut put on a old L28 coil i had laying around and now my car runs awsomely!!

    I'm so happy!

    How Much Should I Ask For?

    in Classics (1953-1988)

    Posted · Edited by george.bryant

    I need to sell my HR30. I never drive it as its a gas guzzler compared to my CRX.

    At the moment I've got it for sale for $1600 NZD (around $1400 AUD). No one seems interested...

    What do you lot reckon?

    Thanks!

    This is the for sale advert (56k be patient...):

    1984 HR30 Nissan Skyline Sedan

    White with black roof in tidish condition (VERY minor rust)

    Front and rear bumpers could do with a replacing or refitting

    33x,xxx km on Chassis (not sure about motor but its not that much!)

    L20et with reconditioned head

    New headgasket

    New manifold gasket

    New PCV Vavle

    RB20det Turbo running 10psi

    5 speed manual (box in GREAT condtion) with nice gearknob

    GFB Boost Controller

    New headgasket

    New Thermostat

    New Simota Oil Breather Filter

    TCC Work BOV

    RX7 Intercooler

    Short and fat IC piping

    Block and IC piping painted chevy orange recently

    New Bosch Coil

    Big Bore Exhaust

    Century Marine Battery ($220)

    Relocated AFM

    Handbreak plate rebuilt and welded to body ($100)

    Alternator in great condition

    Newish clean headlights that are super bright (Cost me $300)

    Newish diff in great condition

    Mint tread on tyres (205/60/15)

    Wheels suit it (15")

    Some interior painted

    New black front seat covers and new floor mats

    Oh and I spent a good 4 hours cleaning most of the dirt/grease etc off the engine bay.

    Drivers door lock damaged and removed thanks to theives

    Starter motor slips but still starts vehicle after a few tries.

    New spark plugs

    Has WOF until November, Reg 2 weeks lapsed.

    ALso have a bunch of spares

    $1600! FIRM or SWAPs :-)

    444471506a5717695456l.jpg

    444471506a5717695469l.jpg

    444471506a5717695490l.jpg

    444471506a5717695500l.jpg

    444471506a5636032005l.jpg

    444471506a5717695512l.jpg

    444471506a5717699858l.jpg

    444471506a5717699877l.jpg

    444471506a5717699887l.jpg

    444471506a5717699900l.jpg

    444471506a5717699909l.jpg

    444471506a5717705098l.jpg

    444471506a5717705110l.jpg

    444471506a5717705124l.jpg

    444471506a5717705139l.jpg

    444471506a5717705158l.jpg

    444471506a5717706588l.jpg

    Low Beams Dim

    in Classics (1953-1988)

    Posted · Edited by george.bryant

    a guy did it (re-chrome) on a jap HR30 site..... i cant find it as it was on my old work place's PC

    it was a good site too! the dude did a twin front light conversion in the end, along with VG30 turb on a L20et....

    i know exactly the site you mean, this one right : http://www.aurora.dti.ne.jp/~joinme/pages/...orreplating.htm

    i dont get how get rechromes them? anyone know? i managed to pick 2 mint condition lights up for $90 each (they are VERY VERY hard to find here)

    I did translater the page but it made little sense, I guess I could pull apart my headlights taht are failing wof and take out the reflectors and get them rechromed at a chrome plater?

    Gas Smell In Cabin...leak?

    in Classics (1953-1988)

    Posted · Edited by george.bryant

    For months now I have had to put up with the stench of fuel in the cabin. The smell has gotten stronger and stronger over time. I noticed injectors 5&6 had fuel on top of them a few weeks ago but it hasn't appeared again since.

    Does anyone have any idea where the smell could be coming from? Its ALOT stronger when the motor is under boost.

    I realise it could be coming from more than one location....

    Help please its giving me awful headaches and i'm sure its gotta be bad on fuel economy.

    P.S. I started a post at Hybridz.org but didnt have much luck as it seems Z cars have a different fuel system (http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=121589)

    R30 And Models Prior, Photos Please.

    in Classics (1953-1988)

    Posted

    do you know how to use a search engine!

    google image search?

    carsales .com.au

    tradingpost.com.au

    skylinesdownunder

    Yes.

    But i wanted photos that users may have. I highly doubt carsales.com.ay and tradingpost will provide many results and as for sdu well i have pretty much all the pics of there. google image search brings back shitall.

    Car Wont Start!

    in Classics (1953-1988)

    Posted

    post-32191-1173238290.jpg

    mine has a computer in the boot that apparently controls the fuel pump and turbo (boost volumes?)

    I'm in the same boat, needing a new ECU as mine is getting very tempremental these days.

    yeh controls fuel.

    mate...have you got gas? I dont mean to sound rude but soemtimes fuel gauges can play up if you dnt have much in the tank

    My Car

    in Classics (1953-1988)

    Posted

    up date guys.

    looking at doing a R33gtst brake up grade to the front and getting some bucket seats got all gauges in and working.

    drift ignight air fuel ratio

    drift ignight water temp

    drfit ignight volts

    drfit neo oil temp

    drfit neo oil pressure

    cost $450

    nice tape :)

    I Need A R30 Indicator/wiper/headlight Switch Assembly

    in Classics (1953-1988)

    Posted

    What about the stud, George?

    How did you fix it, or is still busted?

    Removed anything in the way of the manifolds.

    Removed manifolds.

    Attempted to remove stud with an easy out but it wouldnt bit.

    Drilled out stud with a drill (I dont recommend using a cordless drill, it took at leat 45 minutes)

    Purchased new stud and bolt

    Tapped new thread into head

    Applied loctite to stud and wound in.

    Ghostrider: Did you happen to find that swtich?

    Engine Oils And Additives

    in Wagoneers

    Posted

    Today I purchased Valvoline 5-30w it cost me NZD$48 but is normally around NZD$60 apparently.

    I'll post more details about it when I get home. Its for a L20ET motor in my r30.

    I blew the turbo on it and when I drained the old oil only 1.4 litres came out!! That explains the turbo blowing...(sounds logical doesnt it?)

    I Need A R30 Indicator/wiper/headlight Switch Assembly

    in Classics (1953-1988)

    Posted

    You have to be kidding George.

    You stuck it to us all over your pinched fuel line and now you want our help.

    You referred to us all as dopes and that SAU aren't worth talking to and SDU is by far a better group and much more helpful.

    You made me offers and then didn't back them up with anything else but hot air, yet you still come on here seeking our help.

    I probably have about 10 of what your looking for, but I don't know your worthy of my help, as you! so far, haven't shown any interest in reciprocating.

    Why don't you go ask your so fantasticly helpful SDU members for help instead of annoying us here on SAU.

    In my humble opinion I think you're an arrogant arse and you should take a long walk off a short pier until at some time in the future you can show you have had a change in attitude, and then you might get a different attitude on this forum. Maybe a Lobotomy might help.

    Cheers, D

    I have asked on SDU.

    Sorry I was so rude in my post about the broken stud, it was rather frustrating waiting so long for a reply on something I wanted minor assistance on.

    Is it really nessecary to talk to me like this on the forums?

    Cheers/

    Removing Broken Stud On #6. Can I Do It With Motor In Car?

    in Classics (1953-1988)

    Posted

    i had a similar pro b with my l20et when i got it all i did was used my tig to build up the stud untill i ca just wind it out with a set of multigrips.

    i have also used the mig to do the same but its a little harder you have to make sure you get peno with the first bead.

    if you dont have a welder a easy out is your best bet but its a bugger of a job... good luck.

    Thanks for you help guys.

    Got it all sorted out and she doesnt tick now (not from the leaky manifold at least)

    Removing Broken Stud On #6. Can I Do It With Motor In Car?

    in Classics (1953-1988)

    Posted · Edited by george.bryant

    Have you ever thought it's you George????

    You ask some of the most stupid questions. Maybe, just maybe nobody has broken the manifold stud at #6 here in Oz, because I sure haven't in all the years I have been playing with these cars.

    I would think common sense would tell you, maybe a good look under the bonnet might give you the most probable answer to your question.

    As for useless, I think that's a bit harsh, because you forget, HybridZ is an L6 series specialist forum, where SAU and L6 engine specialists would be very short on the ground. I know if I want to know anything specific about L6 engines, I don't ask them on SAU, I go direct to the best source HybridZ.

    The L6 engine is growing less and less popular and only the diehard purists want to stay with them.

    Did you ever think to ask NDSOC Forum the question? bet you didn't?? but you can criticise SAU without reservation.

    Cheers, D

    screw you buddy, it was like taht when i bought it.

    harsh? harsh is the least of it.

    SDU was more helpfull.

    what other questions were dumb? maybe i want advice...

×
×
  • Create New...