blitzxtr
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Posts posted by blitzxtr
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Dave, my whole exhaust system is purely custom, can have it made to any length and shape etc with the mufflers.
The guy who does it is a family friend, to build my exhaust I had to take the car there, jack it all up, and he actually went under it and measure all sorts of things to get the mufflers the perfect lengths etc to fit.
You can fit some MASSIVE mufflers in there, including before the catalytic converter.
PM me if you want me to try T-up a time/day to have a lot
Hi Matt, are the mufflers custom or a stock item that can be ordered. My business (Lillford Exhaust) are going to try and sort something out for Dave as his car is at Red R Racing here in Newcastle and it would be nice to have the car fully complete before it returns to Sydney.
Ill be ringing suppliers for something suitable tomorrow but if you can give me the heads up it may save some time.
Thanks in advance
Dave
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How much bigger is the pin? Not doubting, but i cant see how people are fitting stock gears if the pin is bigger, any more than a 2 thou inteferance fit, and you will be smashing the gears on with a hammer, which i cant see people doing. Maybe the design of the cams has changed?
Tomei pin is 6thou or 0.15mm larger, same as the locating hole in the Tomei cam gear. Standard pin is 6mm and Tomei is 6.15mm. Three sets of Tomei camshafts were measured to check this ranging from brand new ones out of the box, a pair 2 years old and a pair 6 years old, all the same. HKS pin is 6mm as well as Apexi. This was measured by a very experienced engine builder and double checked by a mechanical engineer with 40 years experience using Mitutoyo equipment.
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Dave can you mandrel bend 4inch at the exhaust shop? Its hard to find places that do 4inch.
no mate, can only do up to 3". may have to buy bends and tig it up.
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Being 4" makes it hard any muffler you get off the shelf is going to have been designed for a truck/generic truck uses unless its custom, though you need some size to the mufflers to get any real DB reduction out of them. I would/will be (when i get to it) going as big a middle muffler as you can fit (something oval shaped, keeping in mind 10cm ground clearance so it needs to hug the body pretty well) and a custom muffler for the rear thats as large as they can make fit in the space.
If you go overkill from the start you can always make it louder later on but having to modify it multiple times because it isnt quiet enough gets expensive.
NSW is harder than ACT as you need to be 91db or less from idle to 4500rpm (or what ever they test to), ACT you just need to be 91 or less at the test RPM.
Titan is on the money, Dave you need to fit two of the largest oval shaped straight through items you can fit. Being in the exhaust game I might be able to assist with something that will suit off the shelf. Otherwise a custom hand packed can and tube similar to what Racepace offers may be your only, but more expensive option.
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No those were the ks I put on after the run in was done on the dyno.
ahh, sweet. Check the piston skirts for marking, if its in one spot id suggest incorrect clearance. If its several marks moving around id say they were not torqued. 25ft/lb for those puppies
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Take a breath champ
and grab a few of these too ,.,.,.,lol
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haha don't mention the word rebuild...I only clocked 500ks on it and that was babied, highest rpm would have been 5k
and I would have to agree turning it over by hand would have been the first thing to foul...maybe incorrect torque setting and then when put under load has come free...either way I'm still waiting on reply from builder as it was done interstate
thats definately not the way to run in an engine. If your builder advised you to do that id be very concerned.
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It probably needs to be rebuilt, sounds like some serious issues with it to be honest.
I would have thought spinning it over by hand after the rebuild would have revealed rather quickly that the squirters were wrong.
incorrect clearance may snap them also, ive seen Arias pistons snap these quite often as was the case in my 25 with previous builder not ensuring at least 2mm (80 thou) clearance. Engine will still turn over by hand but will strike oil jets once rpm, piston expansion and rod stretch come into play. To obtain correct clearance aluminium or copper crush washers are used but must not be too thick as to shorten crank counterweight clearance.
yes engine builder id hazzard a guess is a novice.
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yes, 24 slot trigger disc mounted in the factory cas fixes it. The motec looses the signal when the 360 slot nissan one becomes a blur at high rpm. We had our own custom made and works a treat even at 11500rpm.
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drain and remove radiator
remove external belts
remove engine fan and water pump pulley
remove cas
remove upper timing cover
remove cas bracket
wind over engine to tdc
remove balancer bolt
re-align engine to tdc
remove balancer
remove lower timing cover
loosen tensioner nut
wind off tension with allen key
tighten tensioner nut
remove belt guide plate off nose of crankshaft
remove belt
replace belt using yellow lines on belt to line up with timing marks
instal belt guide plate back on crankshaft
loosen tensioner nut
allow tensioner to put pressure on belt
instal balancer bolt
wind engine over 2 complete revolutions and recheck timing marks
tighten tensioner nut while holding tension with allen key
remove balancer bolt
instal lower timing cover
instal balancer
instal balancer bolt and tension 345 ft/lbs
instal cas bracket
instal upper timing cover
instal cas
instal engine fan and water pump pulley
instal external belts
instal radiator and coolant
start engine
adjust timing
bleed coolant
chirp 2nd and rip a skid.
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i guesss its like davo (aussie slang)
sorry guys off topic
Or Mark-o
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who does the crinkle stuff?
your answer is in post number 10
Was at my engine builders on the weekend and almost walked out with a set of black crinkle coat ones.They look evil! And will most likely end up on my new engine
see
Yes Dave, ive actually heard you may have inherited the black 'stealth bomber' covers.
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waaay too expensive buddy,
just a heads up
his cpc was too cheap, hence why its gone
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removing abs is relatively straightforward and can be done using all genuine parts. Ive a much firmer pedal feel now since i had it removed.
the above post is incorrect.
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Why? I hear this alot. You can't use the Nismo slave without this and that. I have run my twin plate coppermix competition model with a Nismo slave for 4 years and roughly 20,000 kms. Yet to have 1 issue. Food for thought?
because you shorten the amount of travel.
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put up a pic of the diaphram so people can tell if its push or pull ?
its a push (see 1st pic)
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+1 for revolution race gear. I use Steve's Speed shop which is in Wollongong but he posts to me and is a good bloke
Macca is a legend!!
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Is this red r racing mob or its owner on this forum? Are they a registered workshop as I can't seem to find anything to indicate this and I will only deal with a large established builder, not a hobby builder.
T.
I had the same additude when doing my build as i knew about Paul in Newcastle but chose to deal with a big name company in Sydney. When they first started up my freshly built engine there were issues and to my surprise they actually called Paul to assist in diagnosing the problem. After speaking with him for about 5 minutes they had information on how to rectify the problem but chose to ignore it. I then made a decision to take my car back to Newcastle and get Paul to sort it out.
Tim, Red R Racing is owned by Paul's wife Stacey and is a partnership between them and a well known established and respected workshop in newcastle specialising in racecar engines (mostly drag racing and speedway) thats been in the game for over 25 years.
If you chose to use somebody else i would also recommend Croydon Racing in Sydney as i use them for tuning and are excellent.
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Interesting thread..
I have my (very realistic) budget set aside now and ready to rock for what will hopefully be a wild Rb26 in my BNR32 and currently looking for an engine builder who wants to take on the task of concocting a combo capable of low 10's or a dip into the 9's so if anyone can provide some true recommendations based on actual first hand experience, please flick me a pm
T.
Paul at Red R is undeniably the perfect choice, his engine building skills are top class. He not only has the first hand experience with building and racing his own car but has built engines for lots of guys on here including but not limited to, NYTSKY, rad32, OJR32, blitzxtr (me), Deano45, skylinekid, NISMATT, sycorb, J'z-R33, Torjan Motorsport in Canberra and is currently building a monster combo for a big motorsport workshop up in Brisbane (1500hp!!) and sorting out issues with a RB24 stroker for murrayis. Quite a number of shops are outsourcing their engine work to Red R purely due to the results achieved with excellent power figures while most importantly being reliable.
Plenty of info can be sourced by pm'ing any of these guys and they are based in Newcastle which will suit you perfectly.
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rb30 block for sure with a 4wd adaptor.
what state r u located mate??
400kw is very achievable with gt-rs turbos
Red R's 32 (twoogle) swapped from HKS 2530's to GT-RS's and power was about the same (around 450-460kw) but delivery was terrible. Changed to a different head and cam combo and it went from a very disapointing set-up to a torque monster with power everywhere and gained an extra 50kw in peak power. Extra capacity sometimes is used to compensate for a mismatched turbo-head-camshaft combination. A properly set-up 2.7 full counter stroker with the right head would walk all over most 30 engines due to a free revving high rpm engine without the headaches associated with the taller heavier 30 block, crank and spacer.
Adrian, you are on the mark in regards to the cost, these set-up's are not for the guys who are tight with funds.
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gtr is a 1991 model it already has the hks rs turbos would like to keep them want to be in the 400awkw region i have always had strokers so a stroker and money wise urrmmm how much do i need for 400kw with gtrs turbos am willing to pay for the results who to use
Red R Racing has set the benchmark for HKS GT-RS turbo's having the worlds fastest and most powerful GTR using them. All this using only 25psi of boost and a stock Nissan crank. The real secret to getting these turbo's to perform to their peak lies in the cylinder head.
I see that they are building a nice JUN stroker with the same turbo set-up for a customer purely based on the success they have achieved with their own racecar.
There are quite a few guys on here including myself who use them for their engine work so ask around and im sure you will find they are the best option.
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strange. i am running tomei cam gears on standard cams without any issues
not very strange, just not easy to pickup unless really looking at whats going on. I had this shown to me yesterday with 4 brands of camgears and 4 different brands of camshaft. With the verniers locked after measuring the Tomei cam gear locating hole its very clear that both GReddy, HKS and Nissan gears hole is smaller. When placing the Tomei camgear on the Apexi, HKS and stock camshafts used as examples there is some quite noticable slop of a few degrees until the bolts lock the camgear onto the camshaft face. Put that gear on the Tomei camshaft that was also there and it didn't move at all with no bolts as the locating pin and recess in the rear of the camgear were a perfect fit. The HKS, GReddy and Nissan camgears would not fit this camshaft unless force was used to disform the locating hole allowing the gear to be pulled up square with the face. All the items were new or near new and both the HKS duralumin and HKS early style were the same. Paul pointed out that when running poncams a few years ago he had the same issue with OS Giken camgears. He also showed me with verniers how much larger the Tomei locating pin is. The GReddy, Nissan and HKS gears were a perfect fit on all the cams except the Tomei. He pointed out that the Tomei gear will work ok but depending on where it is positioned when tightening the bolts will affect the camshaft timing by a few degrees and if the gear is pivioting during the rising and falling of rpm will affect performance.
Im sure this is something the untrained eye would not pickup but when guys who are playing with this stuff on a daily basis using quite a range of brands these little things are easily picked up. Either that or Paul is looking harder than most.
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computer says no.
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Need Advice After Oil Pump Failure
in Forced Induction Performance
Posted · Edited by blitzxtr
blocks need to be properly cleaned, all oil gallery plugs need to be removed and brushed through. Oil restrictors need drilling out too and this is something that is rarely done. I watched my own engine block be cleaned, it took a total of 3 hours work before it was satisfactory.
45% of rebuilt engines prematurely fail due to contamination from a 'dirty' build. Clean it properly, keep it clean and your 1/2 way there to a sucessfull rebuild.