Trex101
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Posts posted by Trex101
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But if you look at the picture you see that both electrodes are on earth.
(Or did I get you wrong?)
The spark should therefore distribute evenly between the 3 electrodes...
(at least that was my idea about the whole thing)
Contrary to popular belief, multi-ground does not mean multi-spark. The spark will only jump once at a time to the lowest resistance ground.
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Just wondering if anybody has ever tried the spark plugs with dual electrodes (in the picture right) (do you have them in OZ at all?)
I use them in my motorcycle and it is definitely a huge improvement over the standard plugs.
Of course I don't know about the Skyline, but I will give it a try ..
Cheers from London
The number of ground electrode doesn't improve the intensity of the spark, it only serve to prolong plug life by distributing the spark erosion among the 2 electrode. The key to stronger spark are smaller centre electrode provided by iridium or platinum, the smaller the centre electrode the better.
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i would say 10w is too thick, especially with the colder months coming up. I would go with the recent advice here, 0w to 5w to provide the max protection where you get the most wear
Depends on how cold it gets, it's not too thick really as 10w is spec (ASTM D-5293) to flow at -25'c. A good Synthetic will have a lower cP then a mineral though.
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I guess this is a lubricant question of sorts...
anyone have any recommendations for power steering fluid? I've got steering rack binding issues with my R34, and it's really not nice, almost like constant understeer.
Before i go into serious hardware mods to fix the problem, i was going to start with a top-notch power steering fluid as it might just be a over-heating issue for the current fluid.
Don't mind spending decent $$ for this. Harold from plub.com has pointed me in the direction of Redline ATF (so a transmission fluid) which sounds like might be what i'm after, but keen to know what the best power steering fluid you can get is?
cheers,
daniel
Yes, Harold is right. Power steering fluid are in fact hydraulic fluid like ATF, so any Dexron III ATF will worked as power steering fluid.
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oil_sample_westrac.zipWELL LAD`S HERE IS MY OIL SAMPLE`S,IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTION FIRE A WAY.CHEER`S chuckie
Chuckie, from your UOA. Pb (bearings) look abit on the high side, you should ask your lab test the Vis@100'c next time, that will tell you how much shearing or thickening over your 20k oci (oil change interval). Low Si (air filtration) is good though. A TBN (total base number) or TAN (total acid number) test will also tell you how acidic your oil is.
I would suggest you sample your oil at around 6-8k interval, if PB is much lower then it could be corrosive wear (from the high TAN in your oil) instead of normal abrasive wear.
fyi, high TAN are usually cause by depleted TBN due to long oci.
Your UOA looks ok but could be better with lower oci but one thing for sure, 5w40 viscosity is perfect for your type of driving and usage.
Oh, it would be easier to read what you are trying to say by paragraphing your messages.
"CAPITAL wording" online is aka to shouting, pls don't do that.
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hi Guys,
I have a Penrite SIN10 10W-70 that was given to me. now will this be fine for a R34GT (RB25DE) ?
its free so im thinking of using it but not really sure if its fine to use.
Thanks
It's too thick, buy another bottle of Penrite 5w30 and mix 60/40 to thin it down.
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Unfortunately the cars straight from Japan so I also don't know what LSD is in there.
So MTL is ok for a GTR gearbox?
I will try 75w90 in the rear, and look at some redline lightweight shockproof for the front, should I go redline lightweight shockproof in the front without the LSD modifier? Or do I need to add the LSD modifier?
The only thing I know about both LSD's is they seem pretty damn tight and the car is pretty heavily modified from Japan so I'm not sure if it was just street use.
A mechanic has advised that the whine and clunk are from the front LSD but it is "operational".
Depend on how's your shifting now, if it feel notchy and difficult in engaging, then the MTL(70w80) would work better then thicker 75w90 oil as the thinner oil will squeeze out faster from the syncro thus promoting quick positive shift. RL lightweight shockproof & 75w90 gear oil do already contain LSD additives, the amount of additional LSD additives to add will depends on the level of LSD noise(how tight or losses is the LSD).
There's no real answer to your question, it's more of an educated guess with trial and error thing. I would suggest you add a quart of 75w90 to your front with remaining MTL and see what happens.
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Hi,
Two questions, I bought Redline MTL for my R33 GTR gearbox oil. I've just read more carefully that most people are using MT-90, is MTL ok to use?
Should I ask if its possible to exchange for MT-90 (which would be hard because I have to get it back there first
)?I also need to do the diff oil and the front and rear of the car appears to have LSD's.
I'm looking at Redline 75w90 from http://performancelub.com.
But the Redline oil finder http://www.redlineoil.com.au/oil-finder.asp, recommends '80W140', which I haven't seen around at all.
Would you recommend using 75w90 in GTR diff's? The front is aftermarket and has a clunk when changing gears, I am not sure if the rear is factory standard or not.
I also found this post: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Re...il-t190062.html
Which is slightly different again and does recommend 75w90 for GTR LSD's, I'm confused.
Regards,
Gareth
P.S. I am trying out the Castrol 5w40 in the GTR engine.
IMO RL 75w90 would do just nice for your rear. The cluck from the front can either be due to mechanical problem or lack of correct friction modifier from the fluid. A good LSD load fluid like light weight shock proof would normally do the trick(can use RL LSD Fluid), MTL (70w80) would give very good shift & protection for syncro but would not cure your "cluck" noise which i suspect it's from the after market LSD. It's really difficult to advice you which fluid will work or not as we don't even know what type of after market LSD is in there.
I would advice you to try the likeliest solution first, try and error.
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Motul 8100 5w-40 synthetic- its pretty damn good, was on mobil one but noticed 0 oil pressure at lights one day then oil warning light came on had to turn engine off quickly- this doesnt happen now oil pressure is where it should be , at idle and at rev
It got nothing to do with engine oil brand, 0 pressure can only mean mechanical fault, probably loses sensor cable or connector. For a oil to reach 0 pressure, it had to sheared below 10wt or less, not likely for a synthetic oil.
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Thanks, I'll do that from now on
Sorry, OT on this question.
Anyone knows where to get cheap car rental in Melbourne? I'll be coming over this Nov to visit my family and friends. A million thanks in advance
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Diff - Motul Gear300 75w-90w
Gearbox - Motul Gear300 75w-90w (Redline lightweight shockproof)
Engine - Motul Xcess8100 5w-40w
Coolant - Castrol Anti Freeze
Brake Fluid - Any Dot 4 or Dot 5.1 brake fluid
Power Steering - Any Dexron III spec ATF fluid will do
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Hey thanks for that.
Redline Synthetic Oil 5w-40 from performanceclub.com is about 17 bucks per 950 ML. So thats 6 * 17 which is around 114 dollars. How much is the delivery charge from them as it does not say?
Cheers!
Why don't you just ask Harold from performancelub.com about the shipping charge?
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Due to the price of it I've always wondered if the turbolight semi-synthetic is similiar to that of the grpIII synthetics (castrol etc) that are not really synthetics.
Could be......
I did a scan with my anti-virus and come up with nothing, it's safe going into this site. no problem.
oh, you could email Harold at [email protected] if you have any enquiry, he quite a helpful chap who will try to answer your questions.
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I went to Bursons today and saw Nulon had 100% synthetic oil... no other oils including Mobil had the 100% sticker.
100% mean sh#t nowadays. It can be anything from 100% group III to V, so go figure.
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So what group does my current oil Castrol Edge Sport 5w-30 belong to?
Not familar with Castrol Edge but the 5w30 could possibly be group III. Only a few Castrol oil type are PAO. The 0wXX type are probably PAO as they need the PAO for such low cranking point.
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hehe dont believe me? walk into repco autobarn or supercheap and make a list of all the oils which say 100% synthetic.... you will be suprised you will find 3 or 4 the rest are marketing hype.... you are buying the name or slogan not the oil.
MOBIL 1
MOTUL
NULON (crap though)
REDLINE
Of course there are other boutique brands like AMSOIL etc but they are not available at most outlets.
Trex you seem to know your stuff about oils, is this true?The other thing, even if Castrol is not 100% synth, I doubt it matters much since most people change their oils 5000-7000 KMs.
How do you define 100% Synthetic? Technically, engine oil consist of 70-80% base oil + 20-30% additives carrier fluid. The oil can be call a Fully Synthetic once the base fluid are 100% group III grade & above. The formulation of modern oil is very complex and can't be judge base purely on base fluid (but of course a group IV or V fluid will be more value than group III). A well formulated oil got to have good base fluid couple with strong anti-wear additives package, one can't just work without the other.
Group I - mineral
Group II/II+ - hydrocrak (VI below 120)
Group III - hydrocrack (VI above 120, mineral derive "Fake Synthetic")
Group IV - polyalphaolefin (man made Synthetic)
Group V - Ester & other un-group fluid (Ester or Polyolester, super high grade Synthetic, good for aircraft jet engine).
Well, to answer your question. In my opinion
MOBIL 1 --- are using group IV base fluid aka Fully Synthetic
MOTUL --- depends on type, the 300V are using group V ester base, race spec fully synthetic.
NULON (crap though) --- don't know about this brand but i doubt it good stuffs since they promote PTFE in their oil additives.
REDLINE - group V Polyolester + very overdose of anti-wear additives, race spec fully synthetic.
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(URAS @ 13 Jun 2007, 02:04 PM) *
Some castrol and Penrite facts;
The name comes from Castor oil which is ok, they then turned their hand to esters.... and failed giving synthetics thier bad reputation early on in the piece.. they no longer use ester... it is left to oil professionals.
did you know that castrol/Penrite Sin fully synthetics are actually only partial synthetics? the only full synthetics in australia have to say 100% synthetic on the bottle.... stoopid loop hole in consumer law.
Also to achieve a wide spread of 10-60 (penrite too) you need to add alot of additives these additives are not lubricous therefore actually reduce and dilute the amount of lubricant in the oil....
You got to be joking.
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Wow,
Thanks for pointing that out. So the verdict is still out then LOL
You know, i can get better wear reading with head and shoulder shampoo then all these oil tested. The chorine in there are a very good extreme pressure additives, it just that when you include it in your engine oil combine with moisture, you will form hydrochloride acid.
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Guys,
Was just enquiring about gearbox oils at the Outlaw Speed Shop here in Adelaide, and got to talking about engine oils too. I was passed on this article to read/keep and had to share with everyone as it has some REAL eye openers.
I will more than likely be using the Royal Purple next, far and above the others for value for money I reckon. Almost makes me want to dump the Motul 8100 excess in there now!. However got to say that the Valvoline shocked me!
Cheers
Lee
This article from StreetCommodore is very misleading, this Timken test are only good for grease, not oil. The editor has admitted the test is flawed and not representatives of actual engine condition.
StreetCommodore reply:
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Hows the oil pressure on the mobil 1 5w50?? Ive been told with mobil the oil pressure can be a lil low when can gets hot?? or is this just rubbish!!!!!
Pressure is directly proportion to viscosity, the thicker it is the higher is the pressure. This also mean higher pressure will have lower flow rate. You need both flow rate and pressure to fully optimize the operation of the oil system. IMO 50wt oil is just too thick for most application except racing or autocross....
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guys i think youve mistaken penrite mineral oils.... theyre pretty average i know... but check out thier SIN (synthetic) oils, rated very highly in recent testing.
Have a read of street commodores mag no. 108, they have tested the 18 top oils on the market through various tests. Out of them Royal Purple and Penrite SIN oils performed the best... funny to see the Mobil 1, Motul, Redline, and Castrol Performance synthetic oils performing so bad...
So just before you guys bag the penrite have a read its very interesting
The StreetCommodores editor has admitted that the test is flawed & not representative of actual engine condition in one of their articles. Street Commodores did indeed print a retraction and apology to its readers.
This simple Timken test is only good for grease then actual oil performance.
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Trex101, thanks for your help, I'm still learning about things such as oil so I didn't know what you needed to understand about the car for a response.
Your post makes sense, I'll have a look around and I might try out Mobil 1 first as it seems to have quite a good reputation.
Although another question, if Mobil Delvac 1 and the normal Mobil 1 0w40 were the same price, which one would you recommend for a GTR?
Regards,
Gareth
That's a hard choice. First, I would choose the cheaper of the 2, but if both are the same price, personally i would choose M1 0w40.
Delvac 1 though very well build couple with good base stock & additives pack, it still a dual rate oil (petrol/diesel API SL/CI-4+), this limits the friction modifier in the oil thus may affect FC and throttle responses. That’s why I’m slightly biases against D1 but it is still my first choice for 4-stroke bike though.
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Would I be better off buying a Royal purple 10w30, or a 10w40? Or do I need to find out my oil temps during use?
Or would you recommend the Mobil 1 0w40 (or 10w30)?
The car will be street driven with occasional track use, but not anytime soon so for now it will be a street car
Regards,
Gareth
There is alot of factors to consider when choosing oil weight and it's quite difficult to give you any good advice by your above description.
There are 2 major considerations in choosing oil viscosity,
1) Fuel dilution (fuel blowby into oil sump effectively thin down the oil viscosity)
Thicker oil can withstand more fuel dilution then thinner oil but thicker oil also causes friction drag, slower spool, higher FC and more startup wear.
For example: If you run Penrite Sin 25 25w60 in your engine, at 10’c morning when you first crank your engine, you would have effectively run 1131cSt startup viscosity. That’s like 4.5 time thicker then Mobil 1 0w40 (248.8cSt@10’c). It’s like running greases through your engine instead of oil.
2) Engine oil temp
Higher oil temp effectively thins the oil down.
For example: Mobil 1 0w40 is 14.3cSt @ 100'c but when avg oil temp raise to 120'c, it would have thin down to 9.1cSt which mean that it is effectively a 20wt oil (you do not want to run a 20wt oil when you racing down a track, do you). So if your avg oil temp are 90’c, any 30wt oil will do as it is effectively a 40wt oil at that temperature.
The key to the correct oil viscosity depends on mostly the above 2 conditions. There is no one size fit all oil.
Oh, IMO some brand of oil are known to withstand quite abit of fuel dilution before thinning down. Redline & German Castrol is one of them. That’s why it’s highly recommended in BITOG for track or high hp muscle car usage.
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So how would I know if its protecting my engine enough? I mean it will prob cost $100 or so for it concidering its 5L I assume like most oils if I see it dropping in level quickly it means its being burnt off to quick and not protecting my engine?
Im really not into a rebuild .. I trust the advice im just taking procautions to avoid a catastrophie
Thanks
Do a used oil analysis, khunjeng knows where to get it.
Is your engine having oil consumption? If yes, find the root cause first & fix it before you try new oil.
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The Goods On Oils
in General Maintenance
Posted
Jay Leno, world renown car guy and collector talk about his using top quality Redline gear oil for his car and bike collection. Very interesting video.
Jay Leno and Redline
http://widgets.nbc.com/o/4727a250e66f9723/...30bb16b6bac5eed