_Sawyer_

there defiantly forgies. The piston you have are sold by precision performance. they retail for $1500. they are some chinese brand but dont be to worried there no to bad really. these are mine that we put in rb30's for a cheaper optioned rebuild. Just put it all back together and drive it, as lond as there not damaged it will be sweet. cheers

ahh thats what I thought. does anyone know what style/make the LIP is in the picyure ive shown. cheers

Hey all, as the topic says, Is this a just a standard r33 series 2 type m front bar or is the lip on the bottom some attachment/mod. Thanks http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e321/_sa...etolooklike.jpg

Still need front bar and grill!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks but the only things I havent got teed up as yet are the grill and the type m front bar, so if anyone has them let me know. cheers

Pm's replied to Still need parts ppls

Hey all, just chasing the following for a series 2 r33 skyline Standard cooler, standard rear bar front passanger side guard electric aerial series 2 front type m bar like the following headlights and a couple of other little bits and pieces call me on 0417 585 108 cheers

Are these the ones that commodores and falcons came out with from factory? If so im from sunbury and ill grab a set. thanks

RB25/30 DET with VCT in a VL Calais but what the hell, Motor: .50 tho oversized cast N/A pistons - Forgies not needed, not breaking world records Crank linished, new bearings etc.. shot peened rb30 rods RB25 twincam oil pump 1.5mm Oil restrictors Standard Rb25 head with provision for VCT Standard manifolds, turbo, injectors Standard r33 computer Extras: NIZPRO FMIC Pod filter 3inch exhaust, high flow cat Bosch 910 pump, just for safety Results: 158rwkw @ 6-7Psi Ultra responsive motor including the r33 box i got with conversion, it cost me $4000 wired up, running and tunned (helps when your old mans an engine builder) Ill put up dyno graph soon

Bump

Hey guys does anyone have an genuine MOMO horn pad? Im also after the "ring" that is bolted into place around the outside of the pad. The folling pic is what I have. thanks

Bogey CAS, Thanks Guys

well it dosent have any spark now so it looks like the CAS ot the ignitor has packed up. makes sense because when the motor missed it seemed to do it across all cylinders and jerk violently, not just a few and slowly stall the engine

Defiantly not the exhaust hittin with the block, ill do a check on the ecu soon. I reckon it's the packs because its a real tempromental problem, it will be great one second then shit the next, and ya i am using the stock fuel pumps. is that likely to be the problem? thanks

Hey guys, Ive recently put a twincam rb30 into my vl and i have a few teething problems from the word go. the engine starts and idles great, revs fine etc. I had the CAS set completly clockwise (which i believe is the ignition fully retarded) and it ran ok. it would'nt make any power put still pulled nicely enough to clock up a few K's untill i get it tuned. the motor would sometimes cough n splutter put i thought it was lack of tuning. Today i thought Id advance the timing so i moved the cas about halfway. it makes allot more power but the coughing and spluttering is 10 time worse and allot more violent. would something be wrong with a sensor like the afm or cas or the coil packs etc????? The motor specds are as follows. Rb30 block rebuilt to Na spec for 8.2 C.P ratio VCT Rb25 Head standard r33 ecu, turbo, manifolds, injectors, coil packs and N/A fuel pumps Im taking it to get looked at soon but i was wondering if any1 else has had this problem. Thanks

Does anyone have these parts?

Bump

as the title say, im after a R33 rb25det knock sensors and loom, the loom also runs the air regulator. let me know. cheers.

this is the suspect plug and i have no idea where it goes. its on an rb25det wiring loom and the plug is near the afm plug. It must go to some kind of box which i dont have. I know that the grey wire is a constant power to the injectors wich i tapped into to get the engine to run. any help would be greatly appreciated. cheers

Are you serious? is there any way to tell other than the slot? it has the numbers 1W05 stamped on it if that helps. ta

I was wondering for those of you using aftermarket waterpumps on an rb engine if you have noticed that the hole for the 10mm bolt is sloted? I have 1 particular 1 with no name or numbers on it that has this slot and of course it started leaking. has any1 had this same problem? I would shot the bastards who made this pump. cheers

well I ended up tracing the grey wire back to the other side of the engine bay where it goes to a plug with eight pins on it. I ran a constant positive to the pin and sure enough, the motor came life! huge releaf. Id still like to know where this plug is meant to be connected but for the mean time ive soldered a wire from an ignition line to power it. Thanks to all that helped, I'd buy ya a beer 1 day if your around lol. cheers

I think the problem is defiantly in the grey wire. it goes to a large male connector that has eight pins and thats on the turbo side of the engine bay which i dont have anything connected to. can any1 check on there car where or what it goes to? maybe im missing something from my loom. Thanks

Thanks for the feed back. Matt- its defiantly not a spark or timing issue because like i said if i put fuel down the throttle body, the motor will start and idle for a few seconds. Turbox- hard to tell because measuring with the multimeter i have 5volts at the pins for the injectors at the ecu and 0 volts at the actual injectors so I would assume they work if i actually get power to them. Bh slo32- I was thinking that 2 about the grey wire, do you know of any other connections where the grey wire might lead 2? i.e does the grey wire have a plug somewhere on the loom, something i might have missed? Thanks again guys

good suggestion because thats what i origionally thought but theres no pulse at the injectors anyway to let fuel in