Darker
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Posts posted by Darker
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450kms is about my average before the fuel light comes on.
on 95 ron too, sometimes 98, doesnt seem to make a big difference.
Im normally changing gears at about 4,000 so nothing too hard
But hey, fuel economy is second to the driving, would you trade your skyline for anything less?
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Not a problem your in under the 21 question limit
Bit of story, still in the writing
Springs have lowered the car about 4cm at the front and about 3 at the back, my car was sitting about 2cm higher at the front on the standard, so its less pronounced now.
Handled really well for the first few minutes of street testing, corned really firmly and wasnt much rougher on the ride, and then I hit a snag.
My front right shock had somehow become damaged when the new spring was fitted, and she was leaking oil profusely, end result, slippery tyre, and no damper on corners. Nursed it back to the workshop and found this out.
Soooooo I have just had new shockies ordered for the front, which may or may not raise or lower the height again.
Labour is an odd one, my springs set me back $350, and standard labour was going to be $220 ($55/hour, front brake pad change as well) I am however having now to pay for new front shocks, which are being fitted without labour costs.
I just hope they arrive soon, so I can have my car/life back.
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Hey Greg
The Kings i just had fitted were ordered in for GTST, and fit fine. Just off to pick my car up now in fact. Every other brand i looked at only had two options, GTS or GTR, first time Ive seen three
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I only get the noise for about the first 5 minutes of driving, before and after cat&exhaust
Seems to go away by the time engine heats up
Maybe we should all fit turbo timers
/joke -
From what Ive read all it does it reset the timing. Supposed to retard the timing by a bit if it detects detonation, doesnt do anything to AFRs from what I understand.
It cant hurt mind you.
Also, have you tried going back to the stocko airbox? might be a problem with the pod (theory of first thing to make it worse, may be the only thing)
just a thought
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Cat doesnt help, just fitted a new 2.5" hi flow and there's no different to it on my car, pretty much same noise, just louder now
not the desired effect i know
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Must be fun trying to change the battery in your car
Damn thats one intense install, howsit sound?
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=)
Exhaust is on, and sounds as great as was expected. I have only really noticed a drop in revs for my normal crusing speeds, and a heck of a lot better response into 3rd and 4th. All in all, very nice.
Springs have been put back to tuesday as they are coming from over east, and the first order is "missing"
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Heya greg
springs are being fitted on thursday, so I will let you know how she goes then. I have driven a friends line with just kings in, on standard shocks, and it was fairly firm, and not too bumpy, but handled better again, thankfully my shocks are in really good knick according to pedders, so I should be able to get a bit more out before i get some shocks to match.
Exhaust&Cat are being fitted tomorrow. I got a price of $540 for a 2.5" hi flow cat&pipe&muffler and quality too (gotta love knowing the right people) I was waiting on the extractors but they're gonna take another 2 weeks and i wont have any free time then, so that will be later still
SAFC is awaiting install an tuning, but dont wanna do that until the extractors are on.
$$ took a little longer than expected to come in, but this is my big week for getting stuff done.
Cheers
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Yep, trent_tr5 has it
Lowest frequency to highest = left to right
if you want more bass, up the left side, more mid range, up the middle, more trebble, up the right
Easy! Realistically you could get better sound than people with just a bass - mid - trebble control, because you can choose your cut offs, anyways, just play around til it sounds right for your music
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Hey PVA, you keep mentioning this Blitz NA ECU and I cant find em anywhere...
Any specs/details where to buy info on it?
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So you're telling me you can get an R33 GTS imported from Japan now and complianced?
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From what I understand R33 GTS's arent being complianced anymore, at least not in WA.
You're best looking at private sales, there is a for sale section here. Dealers are likely to charge about $16k, too much in my opinion.
Best idea would be to have a good read through the NA section, and you'll find specs and mod suggestions.
As you're new too, Ill say it first, the SEARCH button is your best friend in here, pretty much most things have been asked once or twice already.
Edit: Have removed prev. comment until cleared up. Thanks
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Hey no worries, as long as im not being hijacked by people complaining about something, its all good.
Will PM BATMBL then, and see what he has avail. Cheers Greg
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What are you planning to do about an ECU?
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John, have you taken the dash panel off anytime recently?
On my R33 there is a thermometer next to a vent just left of the steering wheel. When I did my car stereo I disconnected it and forget to reconnect, and boy was it warm. It could also have come off, or gone faulty...maybe.
I know of this site for getting into diagnostics mode: http://www.overflow.250x.com/
under FAQ, electrical, Air Con...might be something there that can help
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Im not a heavy braker, and havent had any problems stopping. I've only managed to lock up once, and that was when i first had the car.
Im not changing the wheels, they're less than a year old
So its either new rotors - where and how much?
or Master cylinder upgrade?
If at all. I might see how much power i have to stop before making those changes.
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Good to hear!
Anything not worth doing in the list you think?
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Ahhh, see hugely quick isnt what im looking for. Im trying not to let that bug bite me, or else im not going to stop until i end up with a GTR and two morgtages.
I knew this car was never going to be that, Im just wanting to get a good balance of speed and expence.
My Car only cost $14k, so wheels and mods im still under $19k once this is done. Next car maybe
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Awesome link, its nice to have someone backup results with an explanation as well.
Rules out an air pod for me, good old panel filter it is
Saved me a few $$ that did
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Yep
But fuel wont just sit still in the tank, it will move around. If you accelerate heavily, fuel will head to the back of the tank, i think the meter is on the front, so it occasionally lights up.
The light is really only accurate when you have been sitting still for about a minute.
My meter wil drop below empty sometimes before the light comes on, mostly when im crawling home in peak hour
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Audio is all cool, carried over from my last car, and knocked up a box for the sub in the boot so it didnt take up much space.
Im still not sure I need all the extra suspension options for how I drive, and also for $$ spent. I have driven a couple of highly modded skylines with added suspension and didnt really feel too different. Deffinately not $2k difference.
Whats involved in matching springs/shocks? im guessing something like the whiteline sports pack?
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$600 was the cheapest I could find the springs over here, to buy them myself I think i was still looking at around $350.
Also included fitting of the sway bar, might even include the cost, Ill have to check.
I know Im not going to end up with a beast of a car, the maths just doesnt allow it.
Im still toying with putting in a nitros system, but considering i spend 350 out of 450km a week in peak hour, there's hardly a point. If there wasnt so much crud involved in selling my car and buying another I'd do that, but Id be back where I started, just with a turbo and maybe some mods and maybe a thrashed car
So what is it that you aren't impressed with, topend or overall speed or quickness?
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Hey guys, just a thought on the whole power input project
The standard battery in most 'lines is not the best when it comes to adding excess drain. Just chuck in a couple of amps and watch your headlights flicker with the bass if you want proof.
Can be fixed though, try running two batteries in parrallel, or just designate a battery for the X-box. The last thing you'd want to do is fry your x-box once its built in.
2c>
/joke
mp3 stacker?
in Car Audio & Electrical
Posted
I bought a kenwood 10 disc mp3 stacker about 2 months ago, which decodes by itself, and runs through the head unit, which isnt mp3 capable
Ill find the model number if you're interested
Cost about $530 for the stacker and $200 for the head unit
I gave up trying to find a stacker that would suit my stock head unit, and that was my best value for money option in the end, save going for an fm modulation unit, but the sound quality is better out of the kenwood head unit anyways, plus the stock didnt have a line out to feed my subs
Enjoy!