skygtsnt
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Posts posted by skygtsnt
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i would be checking for leaks again. but use an air compressor this time. i was chasing issues and found 2 leaks after pushing over 10psi pressure into the engine. works a treat.
thats a good idea, will try it tomorrow, i'll let you know how it goes either way
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hi guys, thanks for the replies,
i gave all the specs of the engine to sure cams and the purpose of the car. (80% strip and 20% street). so he went off that bassis. he has done a set of cams like this before, and to his knowledge, there have been no problems. the head has also had solid rb26 tomei lifters installed too.
i have base timing of 15 deg. is it worth trying a little more?
as for dialing in the cams with degree wheel, i will have to ask my engine builder about that. i have used him for years and so have my mates, but some times shit happens i suppose. he also tunes it.
the ecu is haltech e11v2 milspec.
i've been told to expect hp figures around the 750 to 840 atw.
it has a 18psi stall converter and 1300hp powerglide behind it from MV automatics ins SA. used to have built jatco 3 spd from keas, but smashed that to bits with the old setup. that was making around 720hp flywheel
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Yeah have checked that also, all spot on. The inlet cam is advanced 3degrees and the exhaust I'd retarded 2.5 degrees. Even with the vacuum pump relief valve done up all the way to hard, it still only pulls -2 inhg, and changing it does nothing. Should see about 5-6 inhg at least without the vacuum is this more or less correct?
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have just put my engine back into my r33 list of mods below. the problem i'm having it it has nearly no vacuum at idle when it idles at 1500rpm. then for no reason, the rpm will pick up and then idle at 2200rpm.
i have carried out a smoke test on the engine with no results. with the engine running, i have sprayed everywhere around anything that can potentially become a vacuum leak or cause one. e.g (injector seals, plumbing fittings under plenum, around the valve covers, the brake booster, the throttle body seal, the gasket faces) i have blocked of the hose to the brake booster to eliminate the booster, no change there. out of ideas, can anybody help me please. i have spent over $30k on this motor, i need to get it working, really getting frustrated. thanks
engine:
rb25det head full cnc with vg30 over sized valves 1.5mm
custom grind cams from surecams (297 in, 310 ex, 10.2mm lift)
hks adjustable cams gears
plazmaman plenum
plazmaman 75mm billet throttle body
40thou over JE customs pistons
perfect circle rings
brian crower rods
nitrided and heat treated crank
N1 oil pump
davies craig electric water pump and fan controller
hks 1000cc injectors on rb26 hks top feed rail
hks t04z 0.82 a/r rear housing
6boost high mount manifold
hks 50mm gt2 wastegate
plazmaman fmic
GZ motorsport vacuum pump with relief valve
fuel system:
bosch 040 intank
2L surge tank
2 x bosch 044 inline pumps
twin lines to fuel rail
aeromotive fuel reg.
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atm sitting on 410 rwkw mods include;
ENGINE:
rb25det block
rb25det head no work done
linshed standard crank shaft
cp 20 thou oversized pistons
eagle h beam rods
acl hardened race series bearings all round
arp head and mains studs
n1 oil pump
remote oil filter with 15 row cooler
n1 water pump
hks 264 duration camshafts
hks adjustable cam gears
plazmaman plenum and fmic
sard 850cc side feed injectors
aeromotive fuel regulator
hks t04z turbo .82a/r rear housing
6boost highmount manifold
hks 50mm wastegate with screamer
3.5"dump pipe
high flow cat
3 3/4" cat back
FUEL SYSTEM:
bosch 040 intank fuel pump as lift pump
2l surge tank
twin bosch 044 inline fuel pumps
twin #8 fuel lines to fuel to twin entry fuel rail
TRANSMISSION:
jatco 3 speed manualised auto
400kw transbrake
18psi stall convertor (4,600 rpm)
13 row oil cooler.
ECU
haltech E11v2
FUEL
BP ultimate 98 oct
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are you able to build bolt in cage for r33 with sunroof. to suit drags. aiming for 10s
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Hi all,
Got an RB26 here that has spun a bigend bearing and scored the block. Thats all well and good though, Understandable failure. Whats got me beat though, is why i've got oil floating at the top of the radiator but no water in the sump.
I've pressure tested the water side of the head (its already apart), and it comes up fine. I'd like to salvage the head as its recently been ported and polished, with all new valves etc. Theres no visible signs of damage to the head, and the engine was pulled out when the bearing noise became audible (before it went completely boom). Oil was found in the radiator when the engine was coming out, so it looks like it happened around the same time as the bearing failure.
Engine was only 11,000kms old after a rebuild with oversized forgies and a good head job.
Anyone have any insight as to where the damage is likely done?
Cheers,
-Luke
hey mate, i might be a bit late but i have had the same trouble with my r33 rb25det. it turns out that the oil seals (in the oem oil cooler off the side of the oil filter bracket) were shot. so what i did was just bypass the cooler as i also have a front mount oil cooler. it could also be the oil seals in your turbos as i have heard of this occurring before as well. not sure if rb26 had oem oil cooler. but if you haven't had any luck since your post, hope this helps.
i'm also interested to find out ehat it was that caused this to happen. that is if it wasn't caused by the above.
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did you get it from ebay or otomoto and how much did you pay
i got it from otomoto and i think for memory i paid around $1000 that was for turbo and the dump pipe to suit rb25det. i had kkr 480 and they are so laggy its funny. seriously.
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from my experience there are no pros for the kkr turbos. i have had too many problems with them in such short little. such as internal wastegate jamming open, oil seals on the turbine shaft failing. i bought it brand new, and no later than 1 month, i had to send it back cause the wastegate had jammed open, was only running 14 psi. no sooner had i put it back on, within a month i had to send it back again to get the seals replaced. and only 3 months ago the seals went again, so i threw it in the rubbish and spent the money on a garrett gt3030r which is what i should have done in the first place and saved a lot of time and hassles.
i'm not saying all kkr turbos are them same. but i am not buying one ever again.
they are just cheep chinese turbos.
you get what you pay for here.
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Hi guys,
I ordered my HKS GT2835 from nengun and 'Todd' from nengun stated that it was posted on Thursday (6 Days ago).
He stated that the tracking number should be active in a couple of days, I thought a couple of days meant 2 - 3 days???
Everytime I try to search the number it says 'Your item number is not found. Confirm your item number and ask at your local office. '
I am F#$KIN G stressed out! This kit cost me over 3k!
I've tried contacting him 4 times now via email with no response.
Does this always happen when people buy from nengun?
Does the EMS tracking never work?
Has anyone purchased from there and had the same problem?
Cheers
yeah i bought a couple of things off nengun. they do take a while to get here. like the other fella said, its unfortunate, that we have to put up with ..."delays"...
but you do eventually get it, well, i received everything i ordered. all be it late though. as for the tracking number, none of mine ever worked either. i suppose thats the price we pay for cheaper, but good quality products
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hey guys, new to the site, has any one got a used r33 auto shifter in good condition, looking to buy, can anyone help me?
would be much appreciated
High Idle And Next To No Vacuum Built Rb25Det
in Forced Induction Performance
Posted
ok, smoked tested again and found 2 leaks. had to block the exhaust off to find them though, and still wait about 5 minf for that to fill up. the leaks were at the adjsutment screw on the fuel reg, and at the fitting going into the plenum for the brake booster. now has about 5 inhg at idle, idle around 1800-1900 atm, will do some tuning next week or so. need looser converter though. will post figures pics after tuning.
thanks for all the help guys.