ian
-
Posts
687 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Feedback
0%
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Media Demo
Store
Posts posted by ian
-
-
any chance that someone can post a 'how to do it' with pictures for this - particularly given all our stageas are getting older (as are we!…) and this is going to happen more and more..
It's happening to mine now, so I'd love
1) a guide to changing it
2) any suggesting where to get the current one re gassed
3) or where to get a new one from….
-
If anyone near melb has their stock r34gtt coils lying around after doing all the above (fantastic) work send me a msg as I'm looking for some!
-
nobody has had their 4wd really pulse every 16 seconds and tell me why??
-
ok, pulled the relay out, and the 4wd warning light goes on..
So something in the 4wd system is getting this relay to pulse on every 16 seconds...
I had a read of
and maybe it is something similar (though my abs light is not on).
Anybody with suggestions?
-
Ok, coils fixed, but the relay (well, it sounds like one) is still clicking every 16 seconds.
It was in the engine compartment, lhs next to the steering, black case in front of the brown box. Can anyone tell me what it is??
ie
-
my s2 rs4s has developed a clicking noise from the dash - somewhere behind the steering wheel it sounds like a decent sized relay is clicking. It's doing it all the time (with the engine going) ie even if I'm stationary and not in gear..
It's also happening at a consistent interval ie about every 16.8 seconds.
Does anyone have any idea what it might be?
It could be related to my other problem, which started a few days ago, though possibly not - ie my coil light is on, so one of them might have a fault (speaking of that, if anyone has a link to a 'how to change your coil please post it as I'm sure it's up here somewhere but I can't find it (I think 'search' is having problems tonight..).
-
he is from tassie, they don't have cameras yet..
-
2
-
-
thanks. I did get out the pliers and check them all, all good... I'll check the plugs in the morning.. And it's both the cluster ie speedo and tacho, plus also the ones in the middle ie voltage and front/back torque split.
-
good for you, I found getting each one in/out to be a pain, and as I said "any other thoughts on what the problem might be??" I suspect it isn't a fuse problem ie I was also looking for sugestions.
-
posted before but here it is again, S2 fuse box translation.
I know this is an old post, but I've just had the lights behind my speedo, tacho, and dials in the central column go dark in my s2 stagea (ie the cluster lights).. Not so good when you are driving at night as it makes seeing your speed dificult..
Looking at the fuse translations I checked 'meter', 'electrical parts' x 2, and room lamp (just in case) and they were all fine (pulled them out and checked with the meter..) - does anyone have any idea what other fuse I should check or any other thoughts on what the problem might be??
Ian
-
I only paid about $20K for my (then!) emaculate R34 GTT thirteen years ago when it was only a couple of years old, there is no way I'd be paying $15k for one now.... I still recon you should be able to pic up a reasonable one for well under $10k - rember, they are getting to be pretty old cars now...
-
Wouldn't go anywhere near the first one...
And $15k is way to much for a stock r34GTT even in ok condition.. I couldn't get $10K for mine a year ago, as there are a lot more sellers than buyers... If the body needs a lot of work (as per your comments) I recon you'll get it or something like it for WELL under $10K.....
-
Part for the front end, do you mean an engine?
I think that is the main part at the front... -
pm also sent - I wanted to know where you'd sent it to as my 185,000Km R34 is going to either go pretty cheap or be sent to someone to pull apart and sell the parts ie turbo, intercooler etc.. (It's problem is the engine has started to rattle - most likely bearings - and I can't be bothered trying to do anything about it....).
Any chance I could get a response?
-
just trying to help, but I suspect you have no chance to sell it at that price - when I thought of selling mine about 5 years ago I couldn't get that for it... (I ended up keeping it, and am selling it this week with a lot more km's for a fraction of that price...).
-
1
-
-
or related to one...
Everytime I see the posts on this issue I'm tempted
to wind my skyline back from close to 200K km/s to 20Kms so so I could see if there was anyone stupid enough to believe it... Not so that I could sell it to them of course, but just to see if anyone would be that stupid... -
it's a shame they just didn't put it on every car - I'd never buy a car without it - as it would only add a dollar or so to the car cost as the ECU knows the speed and the ECU is doing the throttle electronically, so all it need was a small program and some buttons to press to set/reset the speed...
Are all the V35 and V35 cars (ie 250gt, 350gt and 370GT) done electrically ie not by cable?
-
rostra is cable driven. these are electric. wont really work.
Thanks, thought there would be an obvious reason... Mind you, I wouldn't enjoy the drive from melb to brisbane without one (I'm driving up in a few months anyway..).
-
done a couple of them now. its not DIY . I do one for it that involves a fair bit of work but it behaves and looks OEM.
Hi Chris - is the problem with adding something like the rostra unit (which I put on my r34 without much trouble) the throttle contols on a 370? I seem to rember a picture of the engine pay and a throttle cable going to both sides...
If that is the case, what does it cost for you to do one (I'm looking at getting a 370 to replace my aging r34 GTT..) and could bring it to brisbane... (pm if you like).
-
I'm sort of in the same boat as the first poster (with my R34 GTT), in that I'm going to look to grind my disks - but I suspect it is time that they go as they may not be grindable (been on for a while, and I think one has problems..).
If so, and I just do 'ordinary' street driving (and lots of country driving at 110km/h), would I be right in assuming that DBA 42304 (not s) for the front and DBA 4908 for the back would be a good reasonably priced default choice?
-
Looking at about 1k ish
theres racepace in bayswater, chequered tuning in dandenong both really good
Do you know what that included?
-
My well loved R34GTT has just got to the timing belt change time again - yep, last change almost 100,000kms ago (and was done in qld, a bit too far to go this time).
I don't really want to do it myself (don't want to stuff up) - can anyone sugest a place in eastern melbourne (anywhere from the city to nunawading or down to dandenong etc) that would be reasonably priced and competent? I'll probably get done the water pump, tensioners, seals at the same time, so that it will be good :-) for another 100k... :-)
Ian
-
Finally made a steel cargo barrier for the boot in the stagea (instead of the original leather one) as the wife was going for a bit of a drive with lots of stuff in the back.
For anyone who is interested, the top metal rod of the normal one is 13mm - I used a half inch (12.7mm) solid rod which clipped in just fine, with a 20mm by 20mm steel tube for the bottom, and 3.15mm thick 50mm by 50mm mesh welded between the two for the middle.. :-)
Ian
-
I agree, I did that with mine (went aftermarket) as
1) we wanted three sets of keys and remotes anyway and
2) it drives me insane (or more so :-)..) when the windows don't wind themselves up when you lock the car (had it like that for too many years..). With an aftermarket alarm you just wire up the windows and they all go up when you hit the button to lock the car.. :-)
Ian
-
1
-
I think that is the main part at the front... 
to wind my skyline back from close to 200K km/s to 20Kms so so I could see if there was anyone stupid enough to believe it... Not so that I could sell it to them of course, but just to see if anyone would be that stupid...
4wd Relay Clicking At Idle
in Wagoneers
Posted
where did you get your new one from, or did you get the old one re gassed?