zed32
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Posts posted by zed32
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PM sent
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Hi,
Is this item still for sale?
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Turbo sold pending payment
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A 'HUGE FMIC' doesn't give you more power...
150-160 is about right with those mods
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RACV total care
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No reasonable offer refused
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camber kit is still for sale, I'm in Melbourne
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Got some spare parts I need to clear out. Make an offer
-R33 Series 2 blown stock turbo. Good for anyone wanting a hi flow - $200ono SOLD
-HKS springs, took these out of my R33 as I had a full kit going in. Nice stiff ride and good handling, pics of ride height can be emailed/PM'd on request. - $200
-4 x R33 series 2 standard shocks - $200
-R33 series 2 HICAS unit - $50
-Brand new Whiteline bump stops/dust cover kit. 2 pairs, $50 each
-Brand new unopened Whiteline rear camber kit for R33. Part number KCA347 - $120
-R33 S2 sidemount intercooler - $100
-R33 S2 front and rear sway bars - $50 each
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Hi,
I think you should get a 3" front/dump pipe before anything else.
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Ditto. If we want 6 Cylinders revving to 10,000RPM we'll drive GTR's.
6 Cylinder F1 cars, what a joke.
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nengun. they're cheap now...under $1k delivered
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hahah well done Nick...I'd say he kept those details to PM's for a reason
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Damn, that sucks..... but what if someone stole the car now?...........
Hypothetically speaking, lets say it was parked out the front of your house. I assume it's still registered. Let's say you were intending on driving it to the mechanics (If the quarter panels aren't damaged, then can I assume that the rear axle i OK?)
Suddenly, in the middle of the night, a nasty person makes off with your pride and joy!
Would this hypothetical situation result in hypothetical $5,000?
Just a thought.....
Too bad it probably wouldn't work. Insurance companies would be all over something like this, although they seem to loathe to return your calls in a genuine dispute.
you've told them your car was in an accident, so its not worth $5k anymore. its worth $5k without existing damage.
not to mention insurance fraud.
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PERSONALised plates.
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Hey guys, if anyone needs a rear camber kit or some bump stops, I have some left over that I didn't use. they're all brand new.
1 rear camber kit and 2 pairs of dust covers/bump stops.
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so you're blaming vic roads for your road worthy testers mistake? You can't expect vic roads to just change your engine number...I'm sure you can see what kind of problems that can lead too....
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http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=166326&hl=
You could use the 4 channel for front and rears (6-6.5" speakers in the rear not 6x9's) and the mono block is perfect for the sub.
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Its jap spec 4 doors only...
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I am wondering what the difference is between a Bar & Plate cooler, and a Tube & Fin cooler. I have been talking to a couple of workshops who reckon the Hybrid Tube & Fin coolers are better than the japanese brand name coolers, because the jap ones use a bar & plate design.
The workshop reckons that tube & fin is better because it is physically lighter and flows better. It also allows better flow to the radiator.
I was wondering if anyone else can confirm or deny this and also tell me which is better for cooling capacity.
The Hybrid Tube & fin cooler is $1400 supplied and fitted which I thought was a bit steep, but if it is as good as they make out, then I don't mind paying the extra cash. But is it really that much better than the $400 GKTech kit?
someone posted in the other thread that tube and fin is good for circuit cars etc, as they experience prolonged periods of power...but for street and drag, bar and plate is fine...
$1400 for a hybrid...ouch
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Where can you get the PFC for $960?
I also need to add a boost controller and fitting of the FMIC to the list.
Are the $400 coolers any good, do they come with piping etc?
I have PM'd you to make it easier .
thanks
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Really? The way I work it out, the PFC cost about $1100, PFC boost controller $400, Tuning $500, that is $2000 just there. I don't think I would get a FMIC + fitting, and exhaust for $1000.....
I might let the dyno decide. I will do a run before I do any mods and see how the AFRs and power curve looks, if they look ok, then the FMIC will be the go, if they look a bit dodgy, then the PFC might be a better choice.
One question about the PFC, can I get the factory fuel cuts and things like that removed or changed with the PFC? Will the factory fuel cuts cause any problems with extra boost if I run the stock ECU?
pfc - $960
batmbl split dump + hi flow cat - $700max
fmic $400 - GKTech Group buy
tune - $500
Towing An R33
in Victoria
Posted
'OMG' you obviously don't know what total care is. If its a tow up to 100km it costs about $0. that works out to about $0 per km...not a bad rate really.