DaFuca
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Posts posted by DaFuca
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Evil, the 595 is the better pattern, it holds better, and the tread is deeper, i would order the 595's and wait, be a better option.
the 535's are the next step down from the 595's
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Ok imagine this. if the wheel is leaning in at the top, then your camber is -ve. but if it is leaning out at the top then it is +ve. and unless you are driving on dead flat roads, like the euro freeways, then i would suggest -ve camber.
as for the rear camber, unless it is doing radical things to your rear tyres, they wont alter the camber, they will normally set the rear up right through toe. if the camber is within specs.
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The rear toe seems a little high, normally would be between 0.5 - 2.0mm in total on the rear of one of them. but the rest of it doesnt sound that bad.
I prolly would of had the front toe set to about 1.5mm a side, 3mm in total.
If your toe on the front was out by 10.5 before they did anything, it would of been feral to drive and been squeeling as you drove it in a straight line and f**king tyres in a few thousand km's.
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When I saw this in my inbox, i could not resist to see what people had replied with..
I didnt know that the R33 GTS came out in 4 stud, but more to the point, why would anyone even think of redrilling a wheel, you make it weaker and if you are out by even 1 mm, it will create big vibrations through the car. get someone else to drill it that knows what they are doing, or, find a set of wheels.
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Witht he common sized federal tyres over 18 inch, you can normally screw the RRP down a fair bit, I know that with a couple of sizes alone in the federal range, the RRP price is like 80% markup on purchase price, so keep an eye out for the best deals, also the price of federals dropped in all comon sizes about 2 months ago, and most tyre places havent passed the price drop onto the customers, so once again, ask a heap or questions and try to get the best price., I wouldnt pay anymore than $480 for any federal passenger tyre, unless it is the RS's then you will be paying a little bit.. keep that in mind.
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255/40ZR17 94W
unless 94W is for the width then im not sure :S
94W is the load and speed rating on the tyre, the width is 255, the hiehg tof the tyre is 40% of the width (255) and the rim is 17"that is what them numbers stand for.
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wheel alignments being out will not cause vibrations.
I'd say either your suspention or wheel balance, but as it shouldnt cost you more than about $20 to get ya wheels balanced, i would do that first.
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these few words that you are talking about, what do they say? it might tell you what brand they are.
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I have lukus pads in my 2003 Holden Astra. they stop well, great for long distance, and heavy use, but they are as dusty as hell.
Dont know what they would be like in a line, but let me know.
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You have read the posts on all 3 of them tyres from other members, only you can make up your mind. Sure the toyo's are a good tyre, but are they $82 a tyre better than the federals? I dont think so personally but it is still up to you what you do.
The best value for money would be the federal there, but you may get a little bit better grip out of the toyo, but i dont think that the little bit you will notice will be worth the jump in price.
And I personally think that the federal and toyo's are better than the K104. cos I know that the K104's become noisey after about 15,000 - 20,000 km's, but you will only notice that if they last that long.
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hey i've got a bit of an issue...
on my front hubs i have extended wheel studs 70mm to be exact because i run spacers with my street rims - now this is fine with my street rims as i use open ended wheel nuts.
for my track rims they have a centre cap design, which also requires quite a narrow socket. and thus i cant use an open ended wheel nut (which requires a socket), but will need a key design style wheel nut to really get in there. (i've never used my track rims yet)
here's my predicament. ultimately i'd like to use the 1 set of wheel nuts rather than swapping em over continously etc... since the open ended wheel nuts dont look too flash with the rims that dont have a centre cap.
there's a few ways to fix this:
1. cut the extended wheel studs to a more medium length, short enough for normal wheel studs, long enough to accomodate the spacer.
2. find wheel studs that are deep enough to take the longer wheel stud, and narrow enough to fit into the narrow designed rims. (problem with this is that they have to be a conservative design so that i can close them with the centre caps)
I'll need some brands? names? places to get them? measurements etc.
are you able to get wheel studs in a say 50mm length? 1.25 nissan thread?
are you able to get wheel studs that are narrow and yet deep enough to take a longer wheel stud?
most of my searchs come up with ricey anodized wheel nuts which are either too short or have no info on dimensions etc....
any outside insight/info is much appreciated!!!
cheers
eug
p.s - i think the safest way is getting medium sized wheel studs...
50 mm in a datto pattern, now that could be a little bit hard to find someone that would have them in stock.
Dunno about up there in brisvagas, but down here in adelaide we have a place called galaxy products, they are an engineering business that actually make custom wheel nuts to suit what you are after, a little bit pricey, but might be worth a call if you have no other luck.
You do know that most of the wheel nuts with the cap idea can be changed anyway, the caps on mos of the wheel nuts like that are only tacked on from the inside, with a hammer and a center punch you can take the caps off them. or wait long enough and chances are they will fall off them selves.
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With the drag tyres that I have had to deal with, yes i have noticed that storing them does damage there life, if you store them in a hot place they will dry out like most tyres and start to crack, and if you store them in a cold place chances are they will get moisture and porus. I would probably contact somewhere like Rocket Industries and ask them. there link is. http://www.rocketindustries.com.au/search.php?menu=Tyres I hope that helped.
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Glad to hear you didnt get nexen's..
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Higher Tyre Pressures, New bushes and stuff, alignment.. and a few more things can contribute to a different feel when driving a car, higher tyre pressures will make it feel lighter and follow ruts in the road, if the bushes and rubers in the car have been replaced in stabalisers and steering, it will also feel odd untill they settle in a bit, even then it can still feel different, and if the alignment has been altered to what you are used to, it might feel more direct on steering.
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I wouldnt go that far... I dont think a nexen would delaminate at 120kmh
Yeah spose your right there, seen some nasty shit with retreads, but when i ran retreads once, they never peeled. just vibrated everywhere i went. got sick of balancing my wheels every 2 weeks. Put some real tyres on there, and they didnt vibrate again.
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Pls see pic below. Anyone know what these are called? Do they fit a r33 without spacers? I've seen these on a few cars and i'm in love with them. I was thinking of 18' or 19'...
cheers
Jeremy
Go to bob janes, they look like mokk-up HSV rims, and I know that Bob Jane sells sets that looks very much the same.
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I put some sumitomo 235 45 17's onto an Audi 2.4 Turbo, and the bloke drives his cars hard, and he loves them, but other than that, I havent had a lot to do with Sumitomo, but my understanding of them are that they are ment to be a good quality tyre, made in japan and semi silica, dunno. see if you can scratch up fomr more info on them.
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Rosso.
Nice tread design on them.. bit out of my price range though.
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And to say $2k is too much for tyres, I dont mean to sound offencive, but $400 diff a tyre... dude thats less than half. I paid almost the money you would be spending on 4x 18inch rubber for 2x my 17s. At least try and find a compromise there somewhere. Thats on the verg of dangerous. Is your life your talking about.
My thoughts too, I recond I can get retreats for about the same price as a nexen, and they will do the same job.
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I just put on some 285/30/18 pirelli P ZERO, $85 each with 60% tread. Look around for second hand you can get a better tyre for a cheaper price. I was told that the P ZEROs are around $900 each.
What are they Rosso A's or Giallo A's? Doesnt matter, that is a good price for 60%.
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why did you have to take offence????? thanx for your opinion, and i was asking another question, as simple as that.
I was told the nexen has silicon compound tyres, and thats why i thought they were all right.
btw, we are not talking about 2 dollars difference here, lets try 400 difference for each tyre??? i do not want to spend well over 2000 for a set of tyres..............put yourself in the position, what would u do??
and i do know a certain GTR which is putting around 400AWHP running on 245 nankangs (which is supposed to be shit right?), and he does not have much traction issues at all.....
Hey only offered advice, and My main car is a VE SV6 commodore, and it is running 255 55 18's factory, and they retrail at around $550 a tyre, and there is no cheaper brands in that size, so i do know how you feel, but as i said, only advice, get the nexens, dont mean nothing to me.
and your certain GTR with 400 AWHP is running nankangs not nexens.
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nope thats not true.....a good 225 *can* give you better traction than a bad 275
that is so true, a bad tyre in no matter what size will not be as a good tyre several sizes smaller, but why worry about telling people that, all they ever seem to wanna do is save money, and they will buy the tyre that is $2 cheaper because they think they are saving money, but the quality of the one $2 more is prolly twice as good.
I stated my opinion on Nexens and Sava's and if people wish to ignore that opinion it is there choice, but if i was shopping for tyres on a car that I valued and drove a little hard, the last thing i would do is get something that more than 1 person has said something bad about.
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The Nexens are normally rated as a Car Yard Tyre, you will see a heap of them and Sava's on car yard cars, as they are cheap (price and quality) and they are a new tyre, just some advice on them.
The Hankooks arnt that bad for the money, you are getting into a trusted tyre brand, and they still have a name to uphold in the market, so they dont tend to put out crap tyres, but they do have different quality tyres for different prices, so the bottem end of the price range you are getting a bottem end tyre from there range.
The Federals are a Great quiet tyre with a good wear on them, and once again are a lower price than the Bridgestones and the Pirilli's, and wont be as soft as them either, but I think for the money they would prolly be a look in, if you can get them in that size in your area.
and the Falkens are a great softer compound tyre, normally means slightly higher grip, lower road noise, and also a slightly shorter road life, but once again in the price bracket you have stated, I would point you into one of these 3 brands. Hankook, Falken, Federal.
Hope this helped.
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Not all falcons rims are the go, you will need to keep your eyes open for some AU or BA FalCoon rims, Toyota Camry have the same stud pattern and off-set but the center huns might be a different size, try them, also magnas, anything from 1991 > will fit as well, as they are interchangeable with the newer AU and BA FalCoons.
Weird Tyre Wear
in Suspension, braking and tyres
Posted
This is not true, it could be the front wheels are towing out, it could be worn bushes, or even a caster issue.
How often are the tyres rotated, as the cars have such high caster normally to make steering lighter, this can be a common cause of inside edge tyre wear if tyres dont get rotated often enough.
Take it to a GOOD wheel aligner or even a GOOD front end mechanic, and get them to have a look over the front, they will normally be a good starting place to ask for information.