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rorz

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Posts posted by rorz

    Fs: 1996 R33 Turbo Coupe Mt

    in For Sale (Private Whole cars only)

    Posted

    NOTE: THIS IS IN NEW ZEALAND

    $6100

    1996 Nissan Skyline R33 GTS25T Coupe

    Factory Series 2 Manual Turbo RWD

    VTNZ wof until December

    Stock RB25DET motor and manual gearbox

    2500cc Straight-6 24 Valve Turbo

    *Racepro B.O.V (stock boost)

    *RPS exhaust tip (stock system)

    *Lowered on King springs (legally)

    *18" Mags with good tyres

    *Alarm

    *New starter motor (starts first pop every time)

    - Paint bad in a few places (2 spots of clearcoat peeling, scuff as pictured)

    - Odometer got stuck at 84,000kms 5 years ago. Actual estimated kms ~130,000 based on a purchased car-report (can show you), the speedo works just doesn't roll the km's over.

    -Passenger seat requires attention, passenger window winds down strangely, still works fine

    Gearbox, clutch, and motor are mint. No whining or bearing noises, doesn't blow smoke. Very smooth to drive

    post-32048-0-31658400-1311299646_thumb.jpg

    post-32048-0-57212000-1311299654_thumb.jpg

    post-32048-0-58255500-1311299670_thumb.jpg

    Legacy B4 Tt

    in General Automotive Discussion

    Posted · Edited by rorz

    Hey guys/gals,

    I have a 1996 R33 GTS25-T Manual, and being my 6th Skyline i have grown bored of it and ready for the next car:

    I have had a SR20DET s14 Silvia, a 1UZFE Soarer, and every type of Skyline excluding a GTR.

    I am starting to feel the need for something less 'boy-racer'

    What do you guys think of the 1998-2002 Legacy B4's? I know nothing about them except that they are twin-turbo boxer's and they are extremely good looking cars.

    Can anyone tell me anything about how they feel to drive and their reliability? I can't test drive one because car dealer's think a 21 year old just wants to thrash them.

    I have attached pictures of my current Skyline and the type of B4's i'm talking about (in Australia i think you call them Liberty? I'm from NZ)

    post-32048-0-75192400-1305504771_thumb.jpg

    post-32048-0-07187400-1305504778_thumb.jpg

    Note: In New Zealand these two cars are roughly the same price on the market.

    Cheers for any feedback

    Overheating Uphill Only

    in General Maintenance

    Posted

    Hey guys, yes i did search. The new Search function doesn't seem to work properly. I type in 'overheating' or 'over heating' and it comes up with barely anything.

    My NA R33 seems to be overheating when heading uphill. At one point it got close to the H so i had to pull over. It's fine in town however after a long drive and heading back into town it can be a little bit hot. Turning the heater on helps settle it but not when going uphill.

    Have replaced radiator cap, thermostat, and flushed radiator.

    Note: Car also takes quite a while to warm up.

    My money is on failing water pump, but i really hope not.

    Na P-Plate Cars

    in Naturally Aspirated Performance

    Posted

    ok 2 things, a v8 soarer isn't a fast NA car (a v6 or v8 commodore will be faster). secondly, you can't drive a v8 on your P's.

    Sorry i'm from New Zealand where we can drive whatever we want on our equivilant of P's. I had a v8 soarer de-cat with custom exhaust and K&N panel filter and it was definately a fast car. Faster than my Rb20det R32 coupe was, in fact faster than most stock turbo imports around. In that case, i can vouch for the Autech s15 as i have driven one of them a lot (flatmates car), also i have had a R33 NA which was awfully slow in comparison. Another fast NA ca is the Alfa 156 with the 2.5 V6 engine in manual,they are cheap as chips (over here anyway)and go hard.

    Questions Regarding Planned Exhaust

    in Naturally Aspirated Performance

    Posted

    Mate there are a huge number of threads regarding this issue, unfortunately the new search function doesn't seem to be working properly.

    Sift through the NA forum pages and you will see hundreds of exhaust threads. I did a huge amount of research and it actually seems 2 1/4 inch is the best for all round driving, 2.5 for slightly better top end with a sacrifice in low end, and 3" is straight up too large (unless you want a nice power figure on the dyno with f**k all drivability).

    You could install some things yourself if you purchase them off the shelf suited for your R33 (e.g. cat back will just bolt up, as with headers).

    Extractors may not give you a higher power figure but help in the respone of the throttle. More snappy.

    As for the varex, i personally think they sound awful - open or closed. I would get a nice twin-tip that sounds throaty but not too loud but that's just me.

    *NOTE TO MOD: i think it would be awesome if you could bundle together all the exhaust size threads into one big sticky becuase it is clearly a common topic.

    R33 Pad Part Numbers

    in Suspension, braking and tyres

    Posted

    Hey guys, i'm trying to purchase some pads for my R33 Non-turbo RB25DE 1996 RWD, but Supercheap thinks that my car doesn't exist and only gives me the part numbers for the 4WD model (which may have different pads?), they also say there are 2 types, pinned and non-pinned. Repco just gave me 1 part number, which confused me becuase they didn't ask about the pins. I live in New Zealand so we don't have Autobahn.

    Can anyone please help me? A part number for the front pads and rear pads would be helpful e.g. DB1222 or something

    Thanks

    Na Supra Vs Na R34 Gt Vs Autech

    in Naturally Aspirated Performance

    Posted · Edited by rorz

    I can actually shed light on the original question here rather than talking about my girlfriends shitty pulsar sss or my magna with an exhaust system which is of NO HELP in ANY of these threads..

    I have driven all 3 of those cars, my friend had a R34 2.5 NA manual (i have a R33 2.5 NA manual - pretty much the same), my flat mate has an s15 Autech, and i have driven/been in a NA supra about 6 times.

    The fastest was the autech for sure, maybe not in numbers but it felt the fastest for sure, pulled MUCH harder. The R33 and R34 NA are just slow as hell, whereas the supra is a heavy beast but has got power, although not the type of power you want to go back to time and time again - it's pretty timid.

    In terms of modding, the autech is tuned from factory and shouldn't need to be touched. The Supra and Skyline respond pretty well to intake/exhausts as a starting point but i wouldn't bother to go much further.

    I'd say all 3 of those cars are quite reliable in their own right.

    My advice would be to get something average like a RB20DE r32 coupe until you are off your P's, becuase those 3 cars mentioned above are so expensive for what they are. If you would like to know more about how each of those cars drive you can PM me, i can say out of the 10 cars i have owned since i started driving 5 years ago, the turbos (and my old Soarer V8) are the only cars i miss and crave to drive.

    Rb25de

    in Naturally Aspirated Performance

    Posted

    Just remember the more mods you do to the NA the less drivability it will have in terms of comfort (especially when it comes to cams). I recommend the 2.5inch exhaust and good intake then maybe weight reduction and spend the rest on good maintenance until you can afford a faster car (if that's what you want). My favourite NA car i have owned was a V8 toyota soarer, very quick, very cool.

    Buying R33 Non Turbo Advice

    in Naturally Aspirated Performance

    Posted

    I have a 96 R33 manual with the Rb25 and it's ok. It rides nicely and has just enough power but don't expect it to be fast. You will lose to most Vtech honda's such as b16a civic and integra not to mention type-R. Minor power gains can be made from a good air filter (expensive panel filter) or boxed pod, with extractors + exhaust. My advice would be to wrap some good tyres on it and keep it maintained until you are off your restricted plate and can afford something faster if that's what you want.

    The Rb25 has been the slowest car i have owned but then again i'm no 'P' plater (we can drive whatever we want in NZ, even on our restricted license - which is your P plate).

    One thing to look for when viewing your R33, listen for gearbox/clutch/bearing noises at idle when you engage/disengage the clutch. If you can hear audible noises such as rattling or scraping something could be on it's way out. Obviously look for any oil/water leaks from underneath and make sure the bodywork is all straight under there (no damaged chassis)

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