ocd
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Posts posted by ocd
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40 minutes ago, soviet_merlin said:
Have you tried google translate on the descriptions? The phone app has a camera mode to translate from there. The left jack is apparently 'image'. The right one doesn't give me anything but not sure if you've drawn over it.
Oops, I did mark over the right label. According to google:
Left = "Picture"
Right = "Audio"Now to figure out how to select the audio one...anyone?
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40 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:
Point google translate camera phone thingo at the Jap text next to the ports?
I'm such a do-do head...fatigue owns me. Thanks!
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Hi all,
I plugged a BT receiver into both of these 3.5mm jack ports on the TV head unit, but nothing happened. I pressed every button and nothing seemed to change...only static noise. I flipped the TV/NV toggle and still no change.
I was hoping to stream music from my phone. Anyone know what these ports are used for? I searched and came up empty. Thanks!
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1 hour ago, joshuaho96 said:
You sure it wasn't NATS or something?
I've never had a problem with NATS. It's always worked. I have the original transponder key and the ECU (Nismo) is assigned to it (I believe that's the process). I remember reading somewhere that the Power FC doesn't need to be assigned to the NATS in order for it to operate.
What's making you think it's could be a NATS issue?
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3 hours ago, Duncan said:
Thanks for closing the loop...you should check that the earth is only being used to trigger the fuel pump relay in your case as if the pump is trying to pull the full earth through the ECU that would cause a problem.
Not sure I follow you. ECU pin 18 is solely used send ground to the FP relay, switching on power to the FP. From what I've gathered, that's all pin 18 does. The FP relay tests fine. The FP grounds through the FPCM, which also tests fine.
Am I missing something here?
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The ECU is at fault. It no longer takes the FP relay to ground. I ended up replacing the ECU with a Power FC, and the FP primes on key up as it should. Mystery solved.
Thanks all
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On 8/27/2023 at 8:26 PM, GTSBoy said:
Testing whether the ECU is actually setting pin 18 to ground is really simple. Just pull the FP relay out of its socket so there's no actual power going anywhere. Put a mutlimeter set to continuity onto pin 18. Turn on the ignition. If it beeps, you got ground. If it doesn't beep....you got problem, as you suspect.
I did this both at the FP relay connector, and at the ECU...no beep in either location. Does the ECU need to see other sensor information (FPCM, etc) to set PIN 18 to ground?
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On 8/27/2023 at 7:47 PM, joshuaho96 said:
Open up the ECU. Verify that nothing is burned, no caps have dumped their dielectric or burst. To eliminate the FPCM to narrow down the ECU as the fault you can bridge pins 4 and 6 on the FPCM connector directly to ground. If bypassing the FPCM like this does not change the behavior then you know the ECU has failed.
As for how someone could have damaged the ECU this way I don't really know. It is possible someone grounded something improperly and is putting way, way too much current through the ECU ground planes which can cause things to break. Not all ground points are equal, see this explainer to get an idea for what I'm talking about: https://www.haltech.com/news-events/ecu-grounding-the-dos-and-donts/
ECU looks perfect inside. I see nothing apparently burned, leaking, or damaged...traced the PIN 18 circuit board path as well. Does the ECU case need to be grounded to the chassis? I don't think so, but it's currently sitting on the passenger floor.
Just to confirm, are you saying to disconnect the FPCM and ground both PIN 4 and 6 on the connector? Or, are you saying to keep it connected, bridge PINs 4/6 and ground the jumper wire?
Does the ECU need to be queued up by the FPCM or other sensor(s) for it to send ground to the FP relay?
Thanks for the Haltech link. I'll take a read.
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Thank you all for chiming in. Before I run a new more robust circuit, I want to find out what's failed.
It looks like the ECU isn't switching ground on the FP relay. I don't think the issue is the FPCM.
1. I traced the FP relay signal wire (PIN 18 black/brown). There's continuity from the FP relay to the ECU harness on that wire.
2. I grounded the FP relay signal ground wire direct to chassis in the trunk. With "key on, engine off" the fuel pump continuously whines. It's not momentary like normal operation when you key up the car.
3. I swapped out the FPCM with a different one, although I'm not 100% the swapped unit is good. All results the same.
If the FPCM only changes voltage at idle and voltage at cruise, and controls nothing else, then the likely culprit is the ECU...but HOW? I've talked to a few people and no one has heard of the ECU crapping out is such a way.
Is there anything else at play here that I may be overlooking?
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Hi all. I could use some help with a BNR34 fuel pump trouble shooting. There was a time when I had to drain the fuel tank and used the FP to purge the tank by collecting the old fuel at the fuel rail feed (redirected into a gas can). As a result, I may have crossed some wires because I've had this problem ever since. The fuel pump does not turn on with normal key ignition on. The FP relay bench tests fine. Jumping terminals 3/5 on the FP relay connector sends constant 12v to the pump with ignition on...it doesn't time out. Fuel pump runs fine. I haven't checked the running voltage. Tried 2 different FPCM's with the same result. Running a Nismo resetting ECU.Does ECU pin out #18 take the FP relay coil (terminals 1/2) to ground? It looks like it does on the schematic. If the FPCM takes the 12v FP power circuit to ground, then I think the fault is the ECU or the wire from pin #18 to the FP relay.I'm trying to get a head start on tomorrows ongoing battle. Thanks in advance.
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Mods please close thread. Parts are sold. Thanks!
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EDIT function missing? Mods please close thread. Parts are sold. Thanks!
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Not sure of the protocol, but didn't realize there's a USA section. Just wanted to point mainland Americans to my post in the Private Car Parts section in case it's missed. Link:
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BRAND NEW IN BOX
*Ideally would like to sell in N. America, but willing to sell abroad if you have a friend in the US able to facilitate.
Endless 6 POT/4 POT Racing BBK
Part# ECFXBNR34 (R34 GTR)
6 Piston Front Calipers, 4 Piston Rear Calipers
370mm x 34mm Front 2-Piece Floating Rotors
332mm x 30mm Rear 2-Piece Floating Rotors
Blue Mounting Brackets, MX72 Brake Pads, Endless SS Brake Lines, Fasteners
Calipers are Alumite Racing Finished (Super Hard Anodized). Rotor hats are TUFRAM coated. The bronze finish on the rotor friction surfaces is a break-in coating. The non-friction rotor surfaces are super high temp coated.
These are direct fitment for the R34, and will fit the R33 and R32 with minor modification by drilling out the hub caliper bolt holes to 14mm, or using thread inserts in the brackets.
This is an $8k (USD) setup before shipping and duties. It would take over a month to get (USA) if ordered today.
Asking $7200 (USD). Located in Orange County SoCal.
Contact: PM
Payment method: Cash, Zelle, PayPal (contingent)
Shipping: Yes, buyer pays all fees. Local meet up in public.
Reason for selling: Going with a different setup
I've been a member of this community since 2006. I can provide stateside references if necessary. JC
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Update:
I found the fuel pump relay with the help of a well informed friend. It's located under the passenger side tail light assembly, underneath the interior trunk panels. It's pretty easy to get to, but locating it was challenging. It's relay number 62. I attached a diagram for anyone in the future that needs to evacuate their fuel tank this way. I removed the relay and jumped terminals 3 and 5 with a medium gauge wire (the relay terminal #'s are labled on the relay itself). Then, when you turn the ignition to the on position (enging NOT running), the fuel pump will continuosly run until the tank is empty. I removed the fuel hose from the filter to the fuel rail, connected a hose junction and a length of fuel hose to a gas container. It didn't take very long to empty half a tank of petrol. Keep a close eye on the fuel meter, you don't want to run the fuel pump without fuel too long.
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Perhaps those cars had modified their electrics?
You're correct, the ecu will time out the pump in about 5 seconds.
Fuel pump relay should be in the boot, remove the panel in front of the number plate.
You should see 2-relays, fuel pump and ATTESSA pump.
I believe you are correct. Would you happen to know which wires to "jump" or "short" to have the pump run constant?
My pump kept on going . Maybe the stock ECU has a 5sec timer but I doubt it. If your car was hard to start why would you want it to cut off. It wont take long to empty it even if you have to turn it on a few times. Its possible the 5sec comes from the fuel pressure reaching its pressure and fuel pressure relay shutting the pump off. With the hose disconnected the pressure wont hit the desired pressure so in theory will keep pumping.
Most modern vehicles will shut off the fuel pump if the ecu doesn't see the engine has started (rpm based?). As far as I'm aware, there is no electrical fuel pressure sensor signal. I know you can run the engine and disconnect the fuel return as a drain until the tank runs empty, but my engine doesn't run.
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you wont get all the fuel out doing it that way, you need to take the fuel pump cradle out to get all the fuel out
I'm not too concerned with getting all the fuel out. I just need to get as much as I can. I'll dillute the remainder with fresh gasoline.
Just take off the fuel hose at fuel rail and turn car to on but dont start it. That's what I did when I converted to e85. I then put a bit of e85 in and pumped it out again.
I was under the impression that the fuel pump will shut off after a moment without the engine acutally running. Did you have to keep cycling the key?
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I searched for hours on google and came up empty. I need to drain the fuel tank on an R34 GTR. I'm working with limited space and tools. From what I've discovered, one cannot simply siphon the fuel tank with a hose. There appears to be some type of anti-siphon obstacle in the filler tube that obstructs any hose from slipping past.
Can anyone direct me, or at least tell me where the fuel pump relay is located? Any photos would be helpful. Knowing which color wires to run direct power to would be very helpful. I'm hoping to provide constant voltage to the fuel pump via the relay wiring and capture the fuel by removing the fuel line at the rail in the engine compartment.
Thanks in advance. -
Is it necessary to use the Tomei buckets with the high lift pro cams? I'm going with 10.25 in. and 9.15 ex. Also, doing the Tomei springs/rets.
I read something about the procams not being stock base circle and assume the Tomei buckets compensate.
Thanks
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that kit pictured mounts in the bottom of the main front bar opening on an R34 GTR. it mounts right at the bottom, on a little bit of an angle.
I have a pic somewhere of one I saw a few years ago in Japan. will dig it out.
Above the front diffuser?
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Definitely using a t-stat. Tomei oil pump, mostly stock bottom. I am gonna call my ARC distributor tomorrow and see what detail he has (although probably none). I figure I'll go with the blitz (t-stat option) or get this one and tie in a t-stat. I'd like to get one that uses the space above the intercooler behind the grille (assuming that's where the ARC goes).
Any suggestion of other makes that places it there on an R34?
thanks!
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I don't think even the US distributor knows where it goes. I've seen similar set-ups on cars in REV magazine. They all seem to mount under the intercooler, very close to the ground.
My hope is that it mounts between the headlamps behind the grille.
Anyone else?
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This is the ARC oil cooler kit for the R34 GTR. Does this mount above the intercooler? Does it relocate the filter?
What do these 3.5mm jack ports support - TV unit R34 GTR?
in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)
Posted
Thank you for the translation. I'll fiddle with the screen functions and update the post this weekend.