enzan
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Posts posted by enzan
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And what did you find??
It helps when you come to a conclusion to your problem to put it up on the thread you started for reference.
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That raises another question, are you supposed to fit an oil restrictor to the feed line of ball bearing turbo's or do Garrett's (and any other BB turbo) come standard with a restrictor fitted??
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Well I'd be looking at the coil packs first off. Very common problem, could just be a coincedence that it occured after fitting the exhaust. If the coil packs are the same as the 32's then I'd be pulling them out and checking all the carbon ends/springs. Mine did the same thing a while ago and I found the all the carbon ends had burnt out, replaced them all along with new spark plugs and the problem was fixed. The carbon ends sit on top of the spark plugs, if you pull the ends off the coils they are exposed and can be replaced easily enough. Not expensive either.
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Name: Dan
Location: Hobart
Job: Mechanic / auto elec / workshop manager
Car: 89' R32 GTR
Mods: GT2860R - 5's
HKS pods
3inch into cat 3.5inch back to HKS super dragger
N1 oil pump
N1 water pump
JUN light weight pulley
Mines ECU
Oil catch can
Nizmo dash
PBR heavy duty clutch
19' HP design rims
Match ported exhaust manifolds
After market fuel rail
Different injectors (not sure how big)
Some Jap brand coil overs?
Custom "GTR32" plates
Air conditioning, power windows, WTF!!
Future mods : Wolf 3d v5, fuel pump, Respray (some cum junkie tried to break in and scratched the boot!) Tein coil overs - then I'll be happy!! :sorcerer:
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Yer I just fitted them to my 32 as well. It's a big job but yes they do bolt straight up and the only modification is to slot the oil drian holes. It does seem alittle dodgy but but there's no presure in these lines so it's perfectly ok to slot the holes. I'm having other issues with mine at the moment though with "shuffle", mainly because I haven't got the necessary supporting mods yet and it's not tuned.
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Hmm, sounds like you've blown an intercooler pipe off or something... or... I once encountered a similar problem with my old 200sx and found the nuts that secure the turbo to the manifold had worked loose (turbo was loose). Pulled it off, fitted a new gasket and some decent exhaust nuts and she was as good as gold :sorcerer:
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Hmm, I don't know anything about the PFC or how it's wired in etc. But if it were me I'd be starting with the basics, make sure the battery terminals are clean and tight, check alternator charge rate with the head lights on and off and check all earth connections. That's how I'd approach this.
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Oh, it's not an odd size either, it'll be either 17mm or 19mm. All Jap stuff is metric. A bit of CRC works wonders too
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^^ Do you have a pic of this pipe spanner??? I am helping cash0 with this...
Another thing to think about cash0 is:
Will any of this water piping be needed with your replacment turbos. Ie, are you going to have to run braded oil and water lines anyway, like if you went for a big single. If thats the case we dont have to worrie about damaging them too much...
SK suggested having a sticky beak inside the zaust mainfold as thats the path that the ceramic would go towards your values and through to your cylinders. I think this is the safest thing to do before we turn it over again.
Ps, just spoke to will. He saw you on the side of mugga when it happened
Certainly. This is a pic of a snap-on pipe spanner, disigned for such situations as this. Here is another pic of how to interlock thy pipe spanner. :sorcerer:
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I blocked the bleed side of the boost solenoid off today and by doing so dropped the boost down a fair bit, it didn't stop the flutter but it certainly softened the effects. After work I put the boost back to 1 bar to drive home and for some strange reason it hardly played up at all?? The flutter was practically gone! I also noticed the idle was a tad lower than usual for some reason, it usually sits at around 1200rpm and today it was around a 1000, then I had I thought.... could it have something to do with the idle circuit? Obviously my idle control valve is open a fair way for it to be idling at 1200rpm on any normal day, so could this being open so far be causing havoc and confusion with the presure differences either side of the throttle butterflies? Just a thought? Maybe just clutching at straws now!
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The wastegate is located on the Turbine/Rear of the turbo
The surging is from the comressor wheel, which is on the Intake/front side of the turbo
Comp surge (the type we are talking about here) occurs when the turbos are flowing more air than then motor can handle
The air is coming from the compressor side, and has nothing to do with wastegate operation on the rear end of the turbo.
How it is tuned out, i am not sure. I'm yet to go across that in my travels
Yer, I understand the basics of the turbo charger... but is compressor surge something that normaly occurs under full throttle/load conditions? Because this occurs just cruising along a flat section of road in a 60 zone?? But when I load up the engine (3/4 throttle say) it comes out of it??
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i also think there are two issues here (well maybe)
compressor surge of "fluttering" occurs when pressure past the compressor is beyond what the compessor can supply
ie:
workshop A hiflow and do whatever and you go and run the turbo
you dial in 15psi but forwhatever reason (mismatched combo, bad wheel, etc) then manifold pressure ramps to 22psi
the compressor wheel surge's as the pressure past the outlet is greater than what it can supply so it flutters/surge's
i would expect this problem to only occur at full throttle, wide open throttle and aggressive boost building / full load
the other scenario is the common after market twin turbo flutter / chuffing
which i think is a combo of the bov's half opening and venting back and then actuators opening/closing
in a harsh and on/off type fashion instead of soft and progressive.
this only occurs during light / medium load and usually up a hill is a good example of when it occurs
Yes, it's just as you described in your second scenario. But again how are the BOV's opening when I've blocked the vacuum supply line off to them?
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its not the wastegate's fault, there is no such thing as wastegate flutter
its do with the bov's, i suspect they are half opening
and its causing a conflict with either the compressors or the actuators opening and closing rapidly
as pressure in the manifold varies rapidly
as simple as adjusting the duty cycle on the boost controller so its slow and progrssive would possibly cure it out
i suspect thats what most tuners do to correct it, make the solenoid open slow and in small increments instead of fast and hard
that way it doesnt induce open/close/open/close type behaviour, which dictates massive changes rapidly in manifold pressure
as the compressor is sped up and slowed down repeated really quickly
Hmmm, but I blocked the vacuum line to the BOV's off and tried it, and made no difference at all. And it's only on very light throttle right on the transition from manifold vacuum to boost that it occurs
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I didn't touch the wastegate preload before fitting the turbo's... Was I supposed to perhaps
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Nah, no boost controler. Do you think it would help?
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there is no such thing as wastegate flutter
remove the phrase, it does NOT exist, there is no such thing
im curious how the tuning can correct this
Ok so what do you call it when the wastegates go chu,chu,chu,chu and the car surges and carries on? please elighten me. I've already ruled out the BOV's as I said earlier.... I'm confused
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hmmm you have other issues, even though im no fan of 2860's i have fitted them to stockers b4 with no hassles in fact i just fitted larger T517Z's to my missus's RB26 powered silvia and it drives fine (no boost etc) of course it needs a tune but it would be safe as houses to go to shops and back....even as a daily commuter it would suffice until dyno time should present itself.. road tuning ruled out on this one....its a bit anti-social.
Hmm, possibly do have other issues, I didn't change anything other than a small amount of metal off the exhaust manifolds??
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Turbo's ,especially 2530(-5)or GTRS(-10) for a gtr need some mods.
1-Exhaust should be at least 3" right through...including CAT.(Air)
2-Fuel pump replaced to NISMO with regulator.(Fuel)
3-A tune is required with an after-market ECU.
You don't expect more power when the Engine is in a mild state of tune...do you?
How do you expect things work...get a Turbo('s) that is larger and assume the car will be better...wrong?
You made the right choice with the 2530's...you just have not been listening to what every-one is saying.
Get yourself an ECU and get a tune
Yes i know and if you read my post properly it explains my reasons for putting these turbo's on without any supporting mods. JohnnyT originaly asked if his car would be ok with -5 turbo's and no supporting mods. And I'm simply saying that yes it will but he can't expect it to run properly..... like mine.
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The best way to get that line off is with a decent PIPE spanner. Snap-on make the best pipe spanners as they dont spread open and round the bolt/nut head. You can interlock the pipe spanner with another ring spanner for extra length and torque. Thats not the wors't of it yet mate, plenty more instal for you my friend... enjoy!
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Well let me rephrase that.. just forewarning you... it's a possibility that you could end up with an undriveable car due to shuffle because of no supporting mods.
I have bugger all mods at this stage other than the usuals i.e exhaust, pods etc. No after market engine management (mines modified). One of my original turbo's shit itself and I plan to do quite a few mods later on and so wanted turbo's that will be up for it later on down the track hence the GT2860-5's (Never pulling them off again!! What a shit of a job!!!) And now have bad shuffle at cruise and low speeds.
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And another thing is with these turbos and no supporting mods you can expect bad compressor surge, as I've just found out! My GTR's barely drivable around town! So it looks like it's back into the garage for mine until I can afford the required extra's.
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Well today I blocked off the BOV vacuum lines - made no difference what so ever - still very bad WASTEGATE flutter and surging goin on under there - rules out the BOV's once and for all (and it upset the idle). Advanced the CAS - made no difference either. It seems to occur right on the transition from vacuum to boost, near impossible to drive slow.
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Yer that's why I'm going for the wolf 3d v5, do away with the afm's all together, bit more expensive but I think the plug n play is the way to go. But for now, unless a simple tweak of the CAS will fix it, it looks like I might just have to deal with it. Oh well, I was looking for another reason to spend more money on her!!
R32 Gtr For Sale
in Tasmania
Posted
Hey everyone, selling my beloved skyline to some lucky person.
Call or text me if you're interested and would like to know more.
Cheers guys,
Dan
http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/bellerive/cars-vans-utes/nissan-skyline-r32-gt-r/1026983452