mjscar
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Posts posted by mjscar
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Hey mate,
Do you by any chance still have the rear wiper arm? Not the whole motor, but just the arm.
Also interested in the R33 floor mats if you still have them.
How much shipped to 6149?
Thanks!
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Although it looks more than likely that it's a BOV issue since you got an aftermarket one, I experienced the same stalling problem when I first bought my car because of the AAC valve being ridiculously dirty on the engine. Not sure if that'd be the problem but it's worth a look since it fixed my stalling issue straight away. Here's the link for the DIY info
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Sorry i see standard injetors, are they turbo injectors, what fuel pump?
DEt injectors and bosch 040 fuel pump. I highly doubt it's the injectors though because the tuner said it was only running 75% duty cycle.
Anywho, I really am starting to think it might be the cold weather. I might try to wait for a hot day close to the temp my car was tuned at and see if that gives a warning light. If not, then I might turn down the boost and do it again in the cold night. Fingers cross that a hot day is on the way and the cold temperature is the main problem.
Just getting a general idea here from those who know, how much of an effect would a, let's say, 10-15 degrees drop in temperature affect the tuning? Is this a common issue for those who have had their cars tuned or is it something the tuners would have accounted for?
Thanks for all the response and help guys. I really appreciate all the help!
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What are you using for boost control?
Cold nights cause higher boost due to cooler denser air, and a cooler intake charge also means higher cylinder pressures. So if it is Knock that could be what was causing it. As said above though, at this stage it's only guess work.
Just using a manual boost controller. I might wait for a "hotter" day and give it another run. It is highly plausible that it is the very cold air because when I called the tuner, he was pretty puzzled considering how conservative he tuned my car.
yeah with a fake Z32 once you bring the car on power it runs like ass and the signal would be all over the shopie i dont think you could get a good stable tune from the fake z32
Ohh ok. Well when it was tuned, the tuner didn't comment on anything whack with the how the car was running so I am assuming that it's not a fake. But my car is just having idle issues, although I don't think are detrimental, that I can't put my finger on.
hadnt recently put a lower octane fuel in it?Not at all. My tuner actually told me to use ONLY BP ultimate for some reason and not Vortex98 and that's what I've done. Not really sure with the difference is but can't argue against my tuner I guess.
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without the hand controller it is all guess work
get a hand controller and check the peak values and ETC, SENSOR SW CHECK when it occurs
it's not VVT, it's VCT and the changeover point is 4700rpm
Alright. I guess there's no other way to find out for sure other than take it back to the tuner or find a hand controller. Thanks for all the help.
On a side note Paul, I saw in one of your links about the fake Z32's. Considering the ambigous tell-tale sign of a fake, would my tuner have noticed a big difference while tuning my car if it was a fake? And also, I read in a thread on SAU about the fake Z32's that you talked about idle issues. What kind of issue are we talking about here?
Just curious because I'm hoping that mine isn't a fake :S
Cheers.
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there are a couple of things that make the check engine light flash. you need the hand controler or a laptop interface for the ecu to check if its the AFM voltage or its picking up nock, either way dont keep making it do it untill you can check what it actually is.
Nah I haven't been pushing it again ever since then. I only did it the 2nd time to make sure that it really was occuring. As for the AFM voltage, is it possible for it to cause an engine light flash only in 2nd gear? What would be the reason, if it was the AFM voltage, to cause it to only occur in 2nd and not 3rd?
Sorry for the many questions
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Hey guys,
I just got a quick question in regards to a knocking issue on my car. The car is basically a 25DE+T with std turbo, injectors, fmic, and powerfc and a few other bits and pieces. It's currently running 10psi and have been running for the past month with no problem. Anyway, in that month, I've pretty much been taking it quite easy on the engine. I tried to look for the problems and whatnot in that period before I went full bore with it.
So last week, I started to push the engine a little bit more and more. I started with going full throttle in 3rd gear and that gave me no problem whatsover. The car pulled hard and everything is still good. However, 2 nights ago, I tried to push it in 2nd gear and I got the engine light flashing. First I did this at 100% throttle, and then 80% throttle. Now, I will take it back to the tuner to get it fixed, but before then, I want to get a little bit more knowledge as to what could be the main cause. Here's a jist of my thinking:
The knock sensor started going off around 4000-5000RPM all the way to redline. This is to would suggest
(1) It's not a boost spike because I don't think boost "spike" would go for 2000RPM long. Or could it???
(2) It's more likely to be an issue with timing because, if I'm not mistaken, 4000-5000RPM is where advanced timing usually kicks in from the VVT.
So what do you guys think? Is that a fair assessment of the issue? or can a boost spike really occur for over 2000RPM? Is it even possible for the advanced timing to affect the 2nd gear that much more than 3rd gear to cause a knock in 2nd but not 3rd gear?
I do apologise for my noobness in tuning but it's something I really want to learn. So thanks for all your help guys. Much appreciated.
NOTE: I don't have the handheld for the PFC.
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Hey mate,
Still got the mats? Interested if you still do
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Ok. This is fking bullshit, but I just found my rear, left window smashed in after leaving it parked outside of my friend's house. Sigh -_-"
If that wasn't bad enough, my dyno sheet was placed in the backseat and what do you know, it was raining. So now my dyno sheet is also ruined.
Oh the joys of owning a nice car... Everyone just seems to get a chuckle from targeting it. Wankers...
So I'm sorry mate, but I won't be able to post up the dyno result.
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Exactly the same power as mine, have you got the graph?
Yep. I'll upload it tonight when I finish work.
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That is absolutely sick! I've always wondered where and when these events were taking place in Jakarta. I usually go back there once a year but I would more than be down to go for one of these events.
It'd be awesome if you could direct me to a site with info about upcoming events and whatnots.
Cheers.
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Is your return modified? If so it might be to big. Might be a leak or you need a tune. Im guessing you have changed your ECU and tuned it?
Yeh, I T-pieced into one of the vacuum line going from the plenum to the charcoal canister. Is that a problem? I did use the larger of the two lines, so you might be right, it might be too big.
I am running pfc and it already had a tune.
or some of the returned air is blowing backwards through your afm. is the return line pointed towards the turbo or a good distance from the afm?Well that's the thing, I am hearing A LOT of air going out of the system (like an atmo BOV), and I'm assuming passing through the afm, even though it's plumbed back. But like I said, since I don't know what it's supposed to sound like, I simply just assumed that because I was using a pod, it was natural for it to sound like that.
Thanks for the info guys. I'll give these tips a go and hopefully it'll fix the problem.
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i went for a 2-3 hours cruze last night through the hills
so it would make sence for it to come loose
it does look like alot of the fluid is on the steering also it seems the liquid is mainly around the left of the car
btw is that a major thing if the clamp comes undone
Don't think so? I just did mine up, topped it back up and she hasn't leaked since.
Not 100% sure on this, but my other car, which is a Honda, seems to leak power steering fluid quite often so I think it's a common issue but I don't think you'll get any trouble from it tbh.
Just check the level of your power steering reservoir to be 100% sure that that is the culprit.
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i just installed my boost gauge and went to go take my car for a drive and see what my boost controller is set when its at hi and low setting it seems its 10psi and then 12 psi
as i pulled into the drive way i noticed some dark spots on the ground turned out its coming from the skyline
iv taken a picture of where the leak is coming from but it is night time so its not the bst pic i am worried to drive the car any more as it seems something just exploded under there ( the car does drive fine though)
the liquied is sort or browny black on the car itself but on the ground its clean with small black bits in there, doesnt smell like petrol or water
any ideas guys?? as i want to be driving again knowing im safe
Could it be power steering fluid? Had the same problem a while back and it turned out that the clamp that holds the hose to the bottom of the power steering resevoir was loose.
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Hey guys,
Recently I just did a +t conversion on my RB25 and I used a stock BOV. It's working great, but I'm just having some issue (or maybe not??) with my BOV. Everytime I press the clutch down, my car's revs goes way down past the idling rev before jumping back up to the idling rev. To me, this seems more like something you would experience with an atmo BOV since the air is not in a closed-loop, but mine is plumbed back. Since I don't know how a "working" stock BOV is supposed to feel on a DEt, I just wanted to know if this was normal, or whether I have a vacuum leak or a stuffed BOV.
Any info would be much appreciated. Thanks guys!
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She's all running beautifully now
220rwhp @ 10psi which isn't too bad for stock turbo and injectors. Might be able to extract a bit more with high-flow cat and much better muffler.
The only problem I have now is with the idling. For some reason, my car is stalling (or goes to 100RPM before going back to 700RPM) everytime I press in the clutch. Thinking that the AAC valve is the cuplit, I cleaned that up and fixed the issue for a day or so. But now, the problem is reoccuring again. Now, I don't have a problem with cleaning the AAC valve again to fix it until it goes away, but is this a case of dusty pipings causing the AAC valve to get really dirty quickly, or does it sound like I have a vacuum leak somewhere which is causing dirt to come in?
Also, when the AAC starts to play up, my car is doing something really funny. If I drive her cold-ish (water temp gauge just start moving) and I drive casually, she runs really low idle (600RPM). But once she warms up and I start driving it more harder, the idling rev goes up (900RPM).
What the hell is causing this?
...could my stock BOV be leaking?
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Just a quick update:
She's alive!!!
She keeps stalling though, which I am very certain is because of running an untuned PFC and having a few air leaks (ie BOV since I don't have the plumb back piping yet) but nevertheless, she runs and blows no smoke
Got the tuned booked in for next Thursday. Can't wait!
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do you mean the breather piping ?
yeh i think so. it's pretty much the thick ass piping that connects the bov to the intake pipe that i'm looking for.
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got a stock R33 GTST bov.
$40 posted.
does that include the plumb back piping?
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Hey guys,
To be frank, I'm really only after the plumb-back piping from the BOV to the intake for the R33, however, if you have a BOV + the plumb-back piping and don't want to separate the two, then I'm willing to buy them both.
Also, slightly less urgent, but I'm also looking for the piping from the crossover pipe to the AAC valve.
I'm located in Perth but I'm prepared to pay for shipping. PM me or message me at 0431308428.
Thanks.
Rian
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hahaha, 29mm isn’t it? That was an absolute nightmare, I searched everywhere for that stuff, non existent. The closest i could find was some marine hose that was going to be a loose fit, but $120 per meter!!!
I ended up fitting an ATMO bov until I could come across the stock intake and plumb back bov/breather piping. Took me ages, but then instantly ended up with 2 because when I converted it to plumb back and sold the ATMO, the bloke gave me his stock bov and piping *face palm*.
Hahaha ok it's good to know I'm not the only one
You by any chance selling one of those piping?
If not, I'll try to hopefully find one from a wrecker or somebody from the forum. BTW, did you have problems with the ATMO bov? I heard they give you stalling issues or something.
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Ok. Everytime I make progress, I always seem to hit a wall.
Now I'm having trouble hooking up the BOV to the intake. I can't find a place that sells the tubing that goes into the intake and the hose to join them up. Should I try to buy a stock hose + tubing or did you guys do something custom?
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Neg, I think you'd be better off with 0.8mm gap. If you buy NGK BCPR7ES-11 they will have a 1.1mm gap (what I baught initially and gapped down, they were good on stock boost) but if you just buy BCPR7ES they will already be gapped at 0.8, which imo would be best if your after 12psi.
Roger that. Thanks.
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I run NGK BCPR7ES plugs gapped to 0.75 with splitfire coilpacks. I used to run a 1.1mm gap which was good to ~ 10psi, but i had issues when I added my water meth &/ raised the boost, so gapped them down.
Sweet. So 1.1mm gap would be good for stock turbo running ~12psi with aftermarket injectors and some light mods?
Thanks guys. I'll get some tomorrow.
Missfire Symtoms But Only In Cold Weather Rb25det
in Forced Induction Performance
Posted · Edited by mjscar
Try gapping your plugs to 0.7 mm. I had major misfiring problems as well when I put a turbo on my 25DE and I brought the car back to my tuner and he said gap them plugs to 0.7 mm from 0.8 mm and it should be mint. Never had a problem since. Still amazed how much 0.1 mm made a difference because my misfire was reaalllly bad before.