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hrm.. i did spray that area with water to wash the coolant dripping off the bleeder hole.. anyone know any detrimental effects if i unplug it and run the engine? and would it feel a lot different under normal circumstances? i.e. i was thinkin if i unplug ECU one.. rev it and it feels exactly the same. i can deduce that it could be the problem? or if i unplug it and it feels different .. then i know its not the problem? lol .. ghetto problem solving.

if the coolant temp sensor was gone, would it still show a reading of water temp in the car? coz that's still working on the halfway point or just below. that's the guy on the bottom right radiator right (from the drivers position) and it seems to want to rev when off boost.. not sure what running rich feels like.. but its not backfiring or anything after i lift off.. i do have an A/F meter on the turbo timer i can give that a check.. oh just want to note that when the car got hot, i turned on the heater to full straight away and the temp came back to normal.. and by struggling it means if i'm at full throttle, it struggles so much and goes up so slowly that its like literally 20% power.. i also dont hear knocking, turbo rush noise from airpod sounds the same, stock boost gauge acts the same.. everything sounds the same but the rpm just doesn't want to climb.. and as soon as i lift off i get a surge in power. i also bled the cooling system for awhile but bubbles in the system will just make the system get hot right rather than cause significant boost issues?

Hi all, My car got a little hot the other day, so i did a full cooling system check. removed and fully flushed radiator/changed thermostat/changed viscous fan. Did the job pretty straightforward everything seems ok. Car starts/idles fine. So went out for a drive to check everything when it was warmed up again problem strikes. Now while on boost from 3500-7000rpm the car struggles heaps to get the revs up (but it does go up very slowly). I can see the stock gauge go up to full boost (from where it was at before i did the change). After a few more times trying, on full throttle, at 3500rpm-5000rpm with the revs struggling to climb, it starts jerking like boost coming on and off. so I let go and try again, same thing. Let the car cool down.. took out battery, hit brake for a few minutes, (to reset ECU) then tried again. same issue. Then I try with half throttle with the stock boost gauge on 0 , the car revs up fine (goes up to 6000rpm) no problem. but everytime there's a bit of boost the car struggles. So i figure its some sort of boost problem, now how the hell does this happen if i've only touched the simple cooling system. Everything worked hunky dory before this. Not much knowledge as yet about the whole vacuum system and how it works. but are there any hoses i should check that sit near the bottom radiator hose? when taking the viscous fan off i had to undo the alternator fan/water pump belt.. didn't undo any other belts. Plugged and unplugged the water temp sensor. that seems fine. Does anyone have any ideas? Thanks in advance. Mods are Cat back exhaust Mines ECU (i think the boost is slightly higher on these guys) Apexi air filter rest is stock as a rock

Hi all, Dam inconsiderate b!@#@!#.. anyway long story short.. parked car.. door side mirror has been broke clean off.. glass shattered very slight dent in drivers door from the thing rebounding.. just the cable holding it together.. No note no nothing.. So just wondering if anyones got a door mirror to sell. i dont mind payin for shipping if its interstate and the right colour. off a 1993 R32 gtst. $50? + plus shipping?

feels really tight.. as in no play at all. BUT that said i hardly had much play in the steering before hand anyway.. so while its tighter.. its not ~$850 tighter.. i think i woulda been happier going through a couple of bottles of steering fluid. but ANYWAY.. at least its fixed and i dont have to worry about it for another 100 000kms

Man.. can't edit this page at all. forgot to mention its got a C's Short shifter and Carbon fibre gearknob as well. New battery.

oh forgot to add: Call me on 0401137881 (Andrew) and its $12,000 o.n.o.

Hi all, Its time to sell my baby for the past 5 yrs upgrading to Rx7. Its been my daily driver and serviced pretty regularly. Its located in Melbourne, still got 11 months rego (however WA rego) 145000kms Mines ECU Cat back exhaust. (very quiet, but deep) Apexi Air filter. Audio system Kenwood amp Pioneer splits Dynamat on fronts 10" sub Pioneer head unit with ipod adapter Everything else is stock. Recently fully reconditioned steering rack, master and slave clutch cylinders. Some very small scrapes on front bumper and side fender. Steering wheel getting abit worn on the right side, but otherwise still great condition. Serviced regularly If u want more detailed photos (of bumps scrapes/interior etc) let me know. Asking for $12,000 or swap + cash your way of course for FD Rx7 2000-2002 Type RS silver/black OR Spirit R Type B titanium. (lol i know i'm abit specific)

Hi all, i moved over from perth to melb for a job. Got me car brought over and everything. its a 1993 R32 GTST type M for anyones interest.. Its still registered under WA plates, now what is the process to sell it over here in VIC? i'm hella confused with all this RWC etc.. do i need one to sell here? can i even get one? what do i do with the WA plates? leave it with the person buying it?

um.. just or anyone's info it ended up costing ~850 all up .. $400 for the full rack reco, and then 250 for tie ends and 200 for labour.. and another 80 for a wheel alignment.. siiigh

alright just for whoever's info.. called up mechanic, quoted worst case need to reco the steering rack, at around $200 to reco it (if necessary) and at max around $240 to remove it

yikes.. that's not good.. yeh i've just been refilling mine as well takes about 2 weeks till i get the hicas light again.. what leak stopper are u using? does that mean i have to replace the whole rack? or can you just replace the seals?

Hi all, I'll call up a mechanic tommorow but just wondering what kind of ballpark figure am i looking at to fix the power steering rack boot. Its the rubber corrugated thingo and its split right down the middle leaking all my power steering fluid. (isit hard to fix yourself?)

yeh will prolly go for the 2-way 6.5" jaycar speakers.. its $99 for the pair rather than individual, so definately a good buy. (oh as a note the ones i was looking at were 8ohm home speakers rather than car ones.. and so are sold individual basis) I've sound deadened the doors with 3 rolls of dynamat.. wasn't enough to fill the whole door inside skin and panel. but got to at least 3/4 of it.. so mainly did the area around the speakers.. added some focal plain chant foam bits too.. the outcome.. much heavier door.. prolly added 2-3kg's to each door.. and u can definately feel it.. when opening on an angle watch out.. u may forget the extra weight and wack your door against something.. The sound.. when i first heard it.. i'd say definately a more noticeable punch from fronts. hrm.. i'm not sure if it was worth the ~$180.. however.

Thanks for the reply, i'll go with sound deadening.. now.. anyone know where i can readily pick up some Dynamat stuff in Melbourne?

Hi all, Got an R32 GTST, installed some nice pioneer splits in the front (kevlar ones) a few years ago and some cheapie clarion speakers in the back and a 10" sub ported slightly incorrectly and has a very deep response. all hooked up to 4 channel kenwood amp. Now the rear speakers are blown, i want to replace them, but on the cheap. I'm also missing a lit of mid bass, the sub is gives deep bass ok, the splits gives mids to high trebs but seem to miss alot of the mid bass and midrange. its like most of the sound i hear is from the tweeters and the sub. I never bothered dynamatting/or putting that rubber deflector thing flexorb on the back of the front splits) Does this have a large effect? Also i was looking at these for replacement rears. Just simple 6.5" "paper cone woofers" that'll hopefully recover some of the midrange i'm missing. http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?I...mp;SUBCATID=396 Anyone had any experience with these? should i even bother with these? Also as a note i'm not going for loudness, just hopefully more quality, half the stuff i listen to is jazz and cafe style music.

Hi everyone thanks for your input. But currently we're focused on the R33 flat bootlid. But yeh its going very very slowly. We've basically built up the bootlid, got all the edges right, but now making sure all the finer measurements and finish is perfect. Yeh, we've all been very busy with our day jobs and haven't had much time to spend on this project. And as someone said earlier, I doubt our final price will be cheaper than mass produced stuff already out there. Blitz: you have a good point at the rate we're going we're wasting space in this forum (I'll put up a proper group buy (if it will even be one) as accordance to rules of the forums)

Hi everyone, here's a short update, Its going VERY slowly, but we're still doing it (hehe i bought a R33 boot after all) but yeh, i've been away on a business trip for a couple of months so now i'm back i'm going to get straight into it. prices/etc wont be available until we get our first prototype and get everything going, and its likely to be awhile. maybe a month? not sure at the moment.

Nope, still going ahead, sorry for the lack of update, but we're currently making bike parts. We have also bought an R33 rear boot lid, and will start building that up soon, make a mould and make sure things work, and other things like finalising brand name and logo's and that. Other than that people have been busy with their day jobs/ exams.. but dont worry we're still going ahead

yeh i meant just the muffler, not the whole system, but agree with the mandrel bent is quite essential and the quality aspect may affect performance..

in my opinion i dont think the jap brand vs local brand thing does much in terms of zorst.. widening everything to 3" will get u the bulk of the power.. the exhaust decision for me was really wat sounded the best to me.. and i doubt there would be huge amounts of power difference between them...

in my opinion i dont think the jap brand vs local brand thing does much in terms of zorst.. widening everything to 3" will get u the bulk of the power.. the exhaust decision for me was really wat sounded the best to me.. and i doubt there would be huge amounts of power difference between them...

yeh happens all the time.. that's why most of the time i prefer to do it meself.. i've taken my previous cars to panel beaters all the time to have it arrive back with extra scratches and stuff.. and the paint dying after a couple of months.. bloody pathetic..

hehe cool... i was worried that by the end of reading that post that your discs cracked .. fell off.. padscaught on fire, and burned your whole car down.. *TOUCH WOOD* (aparently that can happen quite easily) but cool.. good work..

it happens.. plenty of times.. ask all the engineers/doctors/dentists.. IT is abit lower tho but still quite possible when u get out of uni.. but just get that rl world xp while studying hard and u'll be fine... do oil and gas and get 60-80k straight out.. Andrew here... software developer atm.. Gov't electrical engine before..