[Dash Cluster Gauges Not Working Properly]

i had to go to a specialist guage mob - like those that adjust speedos etc

if the needles are replaced in the wrong spot they will not auto correct themselves - especially on a 32 which uses the mechanical speedo

Ahh cool, would you suggest going where you went? I'm in the city in sydney, not sure of any places i can go as of yet. Cheers for the info

[Dash Cluster Gauges Not Working Properly]

Mick, it's not that difficult to take the dash cluster out yourself. It sounds like whoever put int he white inserts didn't connect things properly. Also the inserts sometimes are sitting flush and that can cause problems as well. I'm experiencing both speedo and tacho issues with my car so have taken out my dash cluster quite a few times.

It sounds to me like the connectors at the back of the cluster are not clicked in all the way. That would be where I'd start looking at first.

Alright ill give that a go. Do i need to be worried about the position of the needles or anything? If i find they are not connected properly, and i reconnect them - should it be good to go, and accurate? Thanks mate

[Dash Cluster Gauges Not Working Properly]

Hey there, I have a 93' R32 GTR. When i bought the car, i noticed it had white inserts for the guages in the dash cluster. Anyway, some of the gauges aren't working. I'm assuming the person who installed it had no idea how to hook everything back up, or the dash is faulty.

The oil pressure gauge goes to the max when i start the car up, the petrol gauge doesn't move - it sits at 3/4 full no matter what, and the speed-o is off by 10km (reading higher than actual speed). Where should i take my car to get these corrected? Just a regular auto electrician, or should i be looking for someone who specialises in imports?

I had a quick search but couldn't find anything useful, so i'm sorry if this has come up before!

Thanks in advance for any help!

[Possible Faulty Afm + Nismo Afm]

Mine's ECU is just a standard ECU with a piggyback inside. Functions just like a stock ECU, will self learn all the idle and timing settings again.

Hey again, so after another week of letting it sit in the garage, i put the air flow meters back in the car today, and jumped started the battery. Took it out for a spin, and i immediately noticed that it sounded different - it sounds like a wrx now. What could cause this to happen all of a sudden? It was fine 2 weeks ago (last time i started it), and now after starting it back up, it has the different sound. After letting it warm up a bit, there is very little power when i hit boost.

So far i have: cleaned the AFM's with a CRC contact cleaner, tried to resolder the joints within the AFM's. The battery was absolutely dead flat, so im assuming that the ECU would of reset. I also noticed its spitting out less unburnt fuel since last time.

Futher more, will driving the car in its current state cause damage to the engine? I'm planing to drop it in to unigroup at some point soon, but its quite a decent drive there, so i don't want to drive it there if its going to cause damage. What do you think? Thanks

Edit: Just had a look at the ECU diagnostic and it gave me a code 55 - no malfunction

[Possible Faulty Afm + Nismo Afm]

Did you reset the ECU? You need to disconnect the battery, and keep pumping the brake pedal to discharge what power is left in the system.

Hey there, no i haven't reset the ECU. I have a Mines ECU in there, will resetting it give the same results as a stock ECU? Btw, i checked my car yesterday and the battery is totally flat, had to unlock it with my key and everything. Not even the alarm went off when i did that. Would it be safe to say the there's no power in the system? I'll jump start it later today hopefully. Thanks

[Possible Faulty Afm + Nismo Afm]

Hi again, i've resoldered the joints in the AFM's and also given the sensors a good clean with a can of CRC contact cleaner. I've put the AFM's back in the car, however it seems to be running really rich. The engine gauge shows its warm (after about 15 mins idle), but when giving just a few revs to it, its spitting out a fair few dropplets of unburnt fuel.

I haven't really given this kind of thing much notice before, so i'm not sure if this is quite normal? Should i be worried? I haven't taken it out for a test drive yet, as i need to put the air filters back on. I also let it idle for 15 mins because the battery was flat and i had to jump start it. Any advice is welcome, thanks in advance

[Possible Faulty Afm + Nismo Afm]

Just remember that the stock RB26 AFMs only have resolution up to 328kw (and then again, in the real world about 290-310kw max), those genuine OEM ones will do as you want (at a expensive price), plug straight in and nothing will need to be done tune-wise, except for maybe a ECU reset.

If you ever want to go above that power level you will need Nismo AFMs or 80mm AFMs (Z32, RB25 etc) anyway. If you are willing to upgrade to 80mm piping, try a pair of 2nd hand RB25 AFMs, as a pair they support 400kw.

Alrighty then, well i have a bit to think about then i guess. I've bought some CRC cleaner and will see if that clears up my problems. If not, i'll be going down the path of a new afm i guess. Thanks for the info! You've been a lot of help

[Possible Faulty Afm + Nismo Afm]

My advice, get rid of that Mine's chip, Nistune it, and get a full proper tune.

Z32's are cheaper, but they are a 80mm shell vs the stock/Nismo afm which is a 65mm shell. If you have pods, you will have to sell your current pods+elbows and buy 80mm compatible pods+elbows.. if you have the stock airbox, you'll have to get rid of it and go 80mm compatible pods+elbows.

Hey there,

Thanks for the info, appreciate it

Is it possible to pick up new genuine oem air flow meters? I want to avoid going to the workshop again because it will mean new piping + Nistune chip + retune. If it comes to that, then obviously i will. I was having a quick look for genuine oem afm's and i couldn't find much that wasn't referring to the Z32 or the Nismo afm's. I found this: http://www.rhdjapan.com/nissan-oem-maf-mas...r-58012?nflag=1 which seems to be genuine oem. Do you forsee anything wrong with these parts? It is quite a bit more expensive than the Z32's, but in the end it will even out if i can just install the oem ones myself at home.

Cheers

[Possible Faulty Afm + Nismo Afm]

Hi all,

I've spent a lot of time searching through the forums to find a solution to a problem i have with my R32 GTR. I have a few questions i'm hoping you could answer, which i couldn't easily find whilst searching.

Basically _i think_ my car is suffering from faulty AFM's. I have read that its quite common that the AFM's have dry solder cracks occuring from the old age. I disconnected them this morning and rev'd the car and it went in to the safe mode, which sounds/feels very similar to what happens quite often when i'm driving.

I want to try and fix the issue by following this tutorial: Fixing your RB26 Afm's

If this doesn't work, i was looking in to buying Nismo air flow meters (http://www.nengun.com/nismo/air-flow-meter). I want these purely because they appear to be a straight plug n play. My car has been in the work shop numerous times in the last year and its a real hassle getting it out there.

If i were to buy the nismo air flow meter and plug them in, would i require a re-tune? If the answer is yes then i would most likely get some Z32's as they are cheaper, and it would end up in the work shop anyway If it does require a re-tune, could someone tell me the reason why, and also what would happen if i didn't have a re-tune. I have a Mines ECU in case you need to know.

Thanks in advance for any help you can offer!

Mike

[R32 Gtst Power Cut Out Issue]

Hi, i think i might have the same issue being discussed in this thread. It's started happening in the last few weeks. Only happened on three occasions so far, but yesterday was the worst. From stand still i would drive off slowly, but immediately when i try to rev it a bit, it feels like the engine was cutting in and out, struggling to turn over. I immediately pull over and leave it to idle for a minute, then it was fine to drive off.

I'm bit scared to drive it as i don't want to cause further possible damage.

[Krispy Maccas Livo #2]

hahaha the meet? no1 showed up except for me my 2 mates and thomas.

was good to go through nasho though, nice to meet you tristian and michael and thomas.

saw my turbo glowing

Nice to meet you as well, might come along next cruise instead of randomly bumping in to you guys lol

[Nistune Powerfc Hks Fcon Haltech Ems Link Ecu Etc Real Time Road Tune And Dyno Tune Available In Sydney And Other State]

Hey guys, just letting you know i met up with Toshi a few days ago and had my ecu remapped. Starting off i had idleing problems and within a very short amount of time he found the source of my problems Afterwards he went to some tuning of my car, and what can i say - its running so much nicer now, very smooth power all through the rev range now, instead of flat spots here and there. I've noticed a nice increase in power, and im not chewing through as much petrol as i used to.

I'm only running FMIC, BOV and 3" catback exhaust, however in the next couple of weeks, i will be upgrading the turbo, boost controller etc and will be heading straight back to Toshi for another retune. Thanks for the remap! I recommend him!

[R34 Question]

I have seen a few, not many though, manual's for just under 20k. But mrgilly i will definately keep yours in mind. If im going to do this, it will be in the next month hopefully. Just gotta find out what costs would be involved in getting a car from another state, since im located in NSW. So 120k KM's is acceptable on these engines? As long as they are in good/reasonable condition?

[R34 Question]

Hi, first post on here! I've spent a few hours searched the forum for threads concerning R34 gt-t's and i have learnt plenty, however, lots of the threads were REALLY old, so i just wanted to get some updates on the info.

I want to sell my current car and im looking for a turbo for less than $20,000, theres plenty of choice out there, but i love the R34 and i have been reading up on the gt-t. I have found a few for just under $20,000 or near that mark, reasonable KM's on them, excellent condition from what i can see, pretty stock, would this be worthwhile getting? I know you get what you pay for, but is it wise to buy a R34 Gt-t for that price?

If not, what would you recommend? I have been looking at s14's (series 2 mainly) and supra non turbo's, however im quite keen on a skyline, and inparticular, an R34. Thanks for any help, and yes i have searched the forum and read many threads, so im sorry if i missed one that answers my question!

Thanks,

Michael