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Posts posted by DAMQIK GTS-T
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this site talks in detail of the problem and possible fixes
http://www.wave.co.nz/~hksnz/techfiles/pow...rlost25det.html
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Well I wasn't losing power that I new of but on the dyno @ 6000rpm and @ 14psi the hose sucked closed the mixtures went really lean, (map senced ecu) those rubber hoses to the turbo are ONLY good for stock boost.
I'm not saying it's the problem but at least check it.
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Check the rubber hose between the turbo and air filter isnt sucking closed.
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rev210 is right the problem is ignition.
This fix has worked on 3 out of 4 cars that I have tryed it on including mine and hitnrun's cars,
Croosers car being the one that it didnt work for (he had a stuffed Afm).
Advance the ignition timing from 15 deg to about 22 deg. no more than 25 deg and then reset the ecu.
Regards
Damqik
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I have also found this site to be usefull
the rb25 wiring diag is also here 1.25mb download
http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~logic/carpage...odoreindex.html
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Originally posted by b2barker
DAMQIK GTS-T, do you know where MAP connects to the ECU? Is it shown on here this schematic? (ignore the cuts
Yeah I know where it connects to the ecu, "IT DOSEN'T"
It is only connected to the boost gauge in the dash, thats it.
It is not shown on that ecu diag you posted i will find the circuit wiring for it and post it up.
Originally posted by b2barkerJust to clarify, the data acquisition link I posted is just a cheap analog to digital convertor (the cheapest 12bit I have seen). Data loggers for cars aren't new but they are generally expensive and stand alone (ie they record data, and you down to PC later) or else a feature of an after market ECU. This one is is cheap, but has some limitations (like 0-4V instead of 0-5V) and the need to have your laptop connected. I am getting one to give it run, and from the RB25 schematic, it won't hard to pick up TPS, AFM, Eng temp and O2 from existing sensors. As pointed these are usless without RPM and or Tacho. RPM and Tacho probably need frequency to voltage converter electronics which are quite cheap.
To me this seem to be a waste of money because as you stated most of the nissan sensors work between 0-5volts or 0-12volts to aquire the data in 0-4volt range you would be missing the most important part (when everything is at full load) just my 2 cents,
I will oneday however buy one of these devices but not for use in my car.
With the tacho frequency why wouldnt you just feed this straight into your laptop? I mean seem's a little silly to convert to voltage and then analog to digital. the accuracy goes out the window.
Btw there is a tacho voltage output somewhere behind the dash.
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I have been trying to find a free verson of the software but as yet had no luck.
As I recon I could make the lead myself.
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Thats why I mentioned to try something like the nissan ecu rom editor or link software.
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At the Qld Dyno day last weekend there was a R31 with a rb25dett in it, it had two 180sx turbo's in it (I think)
It made well over 200 RWKW on a dyno that reads low figures.
It was very well set up and made good low range power as well.
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Just Convert to an electric pump and fan you will gain at least 10 kw
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Originally posted by paulr33
OK so I was to purchase one of these kits @ http://www.oceancontrols.com.au/data_acqui...sition/isee.htm
This can then directly plug into the MAP sensor port next to the Brake booster?
Yes
Originally posted by paulr33This has never been tried before has it? :^)
Nothing is new under the sun, however I havn't seen it done, but then again for what purpose would one want to data log their boost presures only?
Wouldnt it be more important to log a a range of data such as
A/F ratio's
engine speed
Boost at a given RPM
Pinging
ect ect
I belive that the serial port that I first showed you will give all this and more.
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Its Part E In the Picture,
Under the Bonnet between the shock tower and firewall.
Its hanging off the same bracket that holds the throttle cable.
Thats The best discription I can give.
I can't take a photo as I no longer have one in my car I have changed my dash and removed and sold it.
BTW it dose not need to be hooked to the factory wiring as it only runs the factory boost gauge and thats it.
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Originally posted by paulr33
Hi b2barkey,
Does the "data acquisition" plug into the diag port and then i can plug in a serial cable and use their software? This sounds awesome!!!
It would be good if it did,
But I doubt the data acquisition would work this way as the diag port sends serial infomation (binary?) the data acquisition senses voltage output.
Maybe the "Nissan ecu rom editor" (do a search) would be better to make some sence of the data coming from your ecu.
I never got this far as I ended up going aftermarket ecu.
You could also try downloading the link ecu program as it reads serial data from its ecu.
Regards
Damqik.
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Originally posted by b2barker
I don't think the stock gauge uses a MAP, I thinks in air powered? Isn't it?
No, Its driven by a MAP sensor Look next to the Brake Booster on a R33.
I agree Autospeed is an exellent source of infomation for car eletronics,
Also Try:
http://www.aaroncake.net/circuits/index.asp#power
http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/articles/fcd/diy_fcd.htm
http://www.uoguelph.ca/~antoon/circ/circuits.htm
I have made some of these including the FDC and all have worked
Regards
DAMQIK
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Yeap thats the port,
it is what Nissan Japan plug into and get readings of all sorts from the ecu.
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Originally posted by Hicks
My water pump went not so long ago.
Buy a vl turbo water pump. It'll cost about $100 bucks. Don't let them get a genuine one, you'll be lookin at between $400-$500 bucks!!
I have done this very thing and regeret it,
The r33/r32 pump has one bolt hole in a different place to the vl pump and over time because the pump isn't bolted down hard in one place it will start to leak, in fact it took 2 months on my car if I had put the covers on over the cambelt I'd never know. as the leaking water never gets to the road (evaporation?).
I payed $76 for my vl pump.
I'm currently looking at getting my origanal pump repaired with new seals and bearings (about $40 in parts and labour).
(Excuse spelling errors. I'm not very well today)
Regards
Damqik
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Here it is,
Note: you will have to find some software to get dataloging from this port:
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paulr33
Two things
1: Your car should already have a map sensor its is used to drive your factory boost gauge its located next to the brake booster, it has three wires going two it Gnd, V+ and Signal.
2: There is a serial data point under the dash drivers side (works with only std ecu) in the fuse box (you will need to make a plug to fit it) I will try to find its pin out and post back here.
Regards Damqik
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Wild747,
Any vacume source is fine for opening the wastegate (even if it is tee'd to the BOV )you then fit the turbo smart restrictor between the source and the wastegate.
if it is a bleed it also go's between the the vacume source and the wastegate.
Always start setting boost with the valve fully closed as your turbo wont take too many of those over boost's
adjust one click at a time even if for the first few clicks dont seem to affect boost levels.
Regards
Damqik
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I had a warrant out on me for failing to surrender rego plates.
hows that for bullshit?
well I was innocent of the charges as the car in question I left with my first wife, when I signed the car over to her she also payed the rego by cheque and then later bounced that cheque (this some how canceled the change over)
five years later I found myself in court fighting to keep myself from going to prisson with a $1200 fine. The Good news is the transport prossicuter worked out what had happened and backed me in court and the charges were transfered over to the ex wife :-) Hee hee Take that bitch.
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I already have my name down for this one.
I just got my new clutch in, I was worried for a while there that I wouldnt get it in time for the dyno day as it had to come from sydney from japan I picked it up wednesday arvo and started fitting it 6:00pm I had the car running 1:05am Thursday morning, including new oil in the diff, gearbox and motor + Filter. Not too bad considering I fitted it all on my lonesome.
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Its Cool I found them and for anyone else looking
http://forums.skylinesdownunder.co.nz/show...torque+settings
120ftlbs on the flywheel bolts
about 36ftlbs for bell housing and around the same for the pressure plate securing bolts ( anything over 33ftlbs is ok ).
I want to try and learn a bit, build my own boost display
in Forced Induction Performance
Posted
There is a starting point for everything
http://www.techedge.com.au/vehicle/aldl8192/8192hw.htm
as this site shows for the common cars among us.
I dont think it would be to hard to make your own consult for pc as the technology is now over 12 years old. and its serial.