Finny
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Posts posted by Finny
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Hi all, EVERY THING has been sold. There is nothing left.
Can some one please close/delete this thread.
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Hi all,
I have given up on my project car as I have more important things to spend my money on.
It's a black R33 4 door with no damage. I am parting it because i have been using it as a donor car for my other projects so its missing too many parts for me to get it back on the road with out like another 10 grand.
It has a forged RB30DET built in QLD, cost me well over 10 grand to build.
Turbo gear already removed.
Gearbox already sold
Front bar wasn't on for this pic but it has one.
R33 4 door love
I have spent about 35 grand on this car but have decided to cut my loses and try and recoup some money.
every thing in pics is for sale apart from the silver R33 in the 3rd pic
Make some offers, engine package is good for 400RWKW, I don't have time to list all of the mods, pm me for details. To give some kind of idea I am looking for around 4 grand for the engine package. This is a massive steal considering the long motor cost around 10 grand to get built.
Engine has done 500km... not even ran in. I have flushed out the run in oil and done the first service on this engine.
Other items, Microtech LT12s, RB25DET loom adapter, Hand controller - $900
Jim Berry Clutch, Full monty. 3200lb of clamping pressure. 500km old. $900 < This clutch will handle 400RWKW all day every day.
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Hi all,
Just stuff left over from last garage clean out.
I am close to Glenorchy, Tasmania. The smaller items I will post at buyers cost.
Blown Garret GT35R with 1.06A/R rear housing. Twin ball bearing.
The bearings are slogged out, fair bit of shaft play, suit rebuild or if you wanted to put the rear housing on your GT35 for a larger rear.
$300 ono.
Dump pipe to suit GT35 - $80
stock rb20/25 exhaust manifold - $80
RB25 low mount stainless manifold, this has been re drilled so the bolt holes line up properly - $150 ono
Turbosmart HyperGate 45mm Cost me $700 from SPG done 300km MAX.
pair of these HR Racing wheels. 18" tyres have camber wear and need to be replaced. - $200
VS Commodore, Tail lights, head lights and rear garnish. (no photo of head lights but they are imacculate) - $50 head lights, $50 taillights, $20 garnish.
5x Standard R33 wheels, assorted tread. $50 each
Retractable single din LCD screen. Suitable if your head unit has video out. - $50
R33 exhaust. 2.5" with cannon and cat. - $80
I will read pms fairly quickly but if you need me asap: 0488020276
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They are 17"s I am fairly sure lol. They have been sitting in my garage for ages, I forgot.
Here is a pic of them on my old soarer. When I sold the car I took the rims off but I left one of the center caps in the boot /facepalm.
So i might be able to find 3 of them but I am definitely missing one.
Ohh BTW they are WORK Eurolines.
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Hi all,
Just stuff left over from last garage clean out.
Blown Garret GT35R with 1.06A/R rear housing. Twin ball bearing.
The bearings are slogged out, fair bit of shaft play, suit rebuild or if you wanted to put the rear housing on your GT35 for a larger rear.
$300 ono.
Dump pipe to suit GT35 - $80
Stock RB20/25 exhaust manifold: $80
RB25 low mount stainless manifold, this has been re drilled so the bolt holes line up properly - $150 ono
Turbosmart HyperGate 45mm Cost me $700 from SPG done 100-200km MAX. $300 firm, comes with pos manifold.
These wheels, set of 4. $250 (multi-stud) 4 or 5 stud nissan/ford stud pattern. Tire tread... look at photo. (Missing center caps) might be able to find a couple caps but not all 4.
pair of these HR Racing wheels. 18" tyres have camber wear and need to be replaced. - $200
VS Commodore, Tail lights, head lights and rear garnish. (no photo of head lights but they are imacculate) - $50 head lights, $50 taillights, $20 garnish.
5x Standard R33 wheels, assorted tread. $50 each
Retractable single din LCD screen. Suitable if your head unit has video out. - $50
R33 exhaust. 2.5" with cannon and cat. - $80
I am near Glenorchy.
I will read pms fairly quickly but if you need me asap: 0488020276
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I agree with SKiT_R31, Also you have to remember engine wear. People will defend SRs to the ends of the earth especially thoes who drift them but I think you will get much less problems with bearings etc. with an RB20. High compression is hard on the crank bearings and I know there are things that can be done to the SRs to make them more reliable but you probably wont have to worry so much with an RB20.
SKiT_R31 also has an RB30 twin cam non turbo which was dyno'd quite some time ago at 151RWKW but that was on a really bad tune and before a lot of other mods. I wouldn't be surprised if it pulled over 180RWKW when it next hits the dyno and being that he has been building this car for many years he does know a lot about NA power. Makes me laugh when this car spanks turbo'd cars.
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Hi all,
I have an R32 for sale, need it gone quickly so I have put a price of $7000 firm on it.
This R32 has quite a few performance mods and makes excellent power and looks great.
Further info: http://www.boostcruising.com/forums/index....howtopic=526699
Cheers.
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SUBARU IMPREZA 1997 Silver
Registration Status: Currently Registered
Expiry Date: 17-APR-2010
Engine Number:
060543
Is Vehicle Stolen: NO
Is Vehicle Wrecked: NO
Is Vehicle a Statutory Write-off: NO
Is Vehicle a Repairable Write-off: NO
Financial Security on the Vehicle: YES
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Yeah, there is not enough info there for us to make a guess at what the issue is.
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If it was a vacuum leak the AFM would be reading incorrectly so the car would be dumping black petrol smoke out the exhaust and the acceleration would be very rough.
Check your waste gate actuator.
ignore the wastegate arm needs to be shorter bs it's just an image I found on google to explain the actuator arm
make sure it's attached correctly etc.
Electrical issues usually result in poor delivery, like the car no longer revs smoothly. If there is an issue with the actuator the car will still rev smoothly it's just the turbo won't spool till like 4000rpm.
Yes the turbo will still spool with the wastegate open on a stock turbo it just adds like 2000rpm to the spool and it only gets like 5psi.
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I put the new plugs in and it's fixed. No more pinging
cold starts and idles fine with the new plugs.
Cheers for the help.
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Yes... it is defiantly pinging.
You get above 5000rpm and it sounds like some one shaking a jar full of marbles.
I have also had a mechanic in my car who was like "OMFG that is pinging alot" and was quite worried about me melting pistons.
I had a work Christmas dinner yesterday so I didn't get a chance to change my plugs over.
I will change them over tonight and see what happens.
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A friend just pointed out to me, it's probably got like bosch temp 5 plugs as it had new plugs put in at a work shop, they used bosch plugs and a temp 5 in a bosch plug is like a temp 3 in an NGK. I am going to put some NGK temp 8 plugs in it and see if that fixes the issue.
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I replaced the pump with a new pump, voltages are fine. I really don't think it is a fuel issue as the car doesn't hesitate or have any signs of fuel starvation.
It also doesn't ping for like the first 2 minutes of driving until the car gets hot, I thought it could just need a cooler upgrade but no other R32 that I have seen pinged with stock cooler, In fact a friend of mine had an R32 with more than stock timing, 12psi and stock cooler and that had no issues.
I changed the computer to one that had been tuned to 180RWKW with stock injectors and the car will not rev. It has classic retarded timing issues like very slow free rev and at about 4500rpm it just wouldn't free rev any higher. Another sign or retarded timing was the exhaust was pooping heaps of flames due to the exhaust valve opening while the fuel was still burning. I didn't pay much attention to this as this ecu has not been tried in an R32 since it was brought off ebay by a friend so it could just be a dud tune. Also I adjusted the timing with the cas and it didn't help.
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I replaced the fuel pump and injectors, made no difference at all.
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There are writeup on this forum and R31 club how to do the conversion that I have done. I know it works and it is a fairly common mod.
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Nissan coils have THREE connections - IGN power, earth, ignitor switch.
I strongly suspect that a Nissan ignitor will not work with a Bosch coil, which only has + and -.
Your revised wiring diagram will not work, because the ignitor will effectively supply +12V to the -ve of the coil when the ECU signals #1 to fire. That will negate the +12V being applied to the +ve of the coil, so there is no potential difference across the terminals of the coil.
Bosch make ignitor modules to work with "standard" coils. But you will probably need 1 per coil.
This is why I am using an RB20 igniter as they don't use a 3 wire setup.
I did have this setup working, I have been driving this car for quite some time with this coil pack setup.
I have read a lot of threads where people have said you must use RB20 igniters when using my kind of non-3 wire coil packs setup.
But I have been looking at the PCB diagrams for RB25 igniters and I am nearly 100% sure that I wire up an RB25 igniter to run individual bosch coils.
I have a few RB25 igniters so I will try this out and see how I go tonight.
If I get any where I will write up some wiring diagrams to let you all know how it can be replicated.
Damn I wish I had an oscilloscope.
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I will order a microtech igniter from MAZFIX tommorow. I would have ordered one by now but you have to call them before 5pm and I work full time.. :S
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I still can't get it to work
I have tried every thing I can think of and I just don't get any spark.
Here is how I now have it wired up.
So I have added the transistor icon so people can understand how igniters work. Basiclly the ECU sends a signal voltage to cyl 1, that signal hits the transistor in the igniter which is like a switch. The switch is then turns on while it is getting this signal voltage. The switch connects the negative on the coil pack to ground and because the possitive is already connected to 12v possitive at that stage the coil starts to charge. Coils are made up of 2 coils of wire, one coil is connected to the negative and positive terminals on the coil pack the other is connected to the spark plug lead and ground. the coils are wound together in the coil pack. While charging the primary coil creates a magnetic field being that it is essentially an electromagnet. Once the signal stops the magnetic field collapses really fast. This collapsing of the magnetic field makes a huge voltage charge on the secondary coil making it spark.
I hope I have got that all correct... this is purely off the top of my head from the little electrical knowledge that I do have. plz correct me if I am wrong.
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After looking at a bunch of wiring diagrams it looks like the combiled earth wire fire the coil packs need to be hocked to 12V. BUT that earth wire is hocked to the negative side of the coil pack and the wires from the igniter is hocked to the possitive side... I really have no idea how it was working before :S
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nope. it just pings :S
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Also, for any one looking at a replacement for the stock coil packs I HIGHLY recommend this method. I am not sure why my setup has just died all of a sudden. The only thing I can think of is a dead igniter so if no one has any ideas I think I will order a Microtech X6 igniter tommorow.
Previously I was running 16psi with 0.8mm gapped plugs and any more boost than that and it would start to miss. With this coil pack setup I have ran 2.2 BAR of boost with no miss-firing at all. I even lifted the gap to 1.1mm and it still didn't have an issue. The larger the gap the more complete burn (correct me if I am wrong) so I might even go to 1.5mm gap if I can get my setup working again just to make it even more drivable off boost.
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why didn't I think of that before...
I will stick a fuel pressure reg on and see how much fuel pressure the stock pump is holding... kinda have to test that under load though...
I think I have a set of RB20DET injectors lying around some where I will try changing them over... I hate removing intake manifolds on RBs so much
Will also try replacing the pump if I can find one lying around. I have a Bosch 044 lying around so I could run that in-line and see if that helps.
It's wierd cuz this car has really no power, I guess around 100RWKW if it's lucky. I would have thought the stock fuel gear wouldn't have a problem with it unless an injector is all clogged up or the stock fuel pressure reg is dying.
Looking For A/m Low Mount Manifold
in Tasmania
Posted
Yeah, I had a stainless one for sale on here. It's a Chinese one and all Chinese manifold don't bolt directly up but this one has had the bolt holes re-drilled so that it does.
$100.
I paid $400 and used it for about 100km before I changed to a custom high mount, I had clearance issues with a massive Garrett turbo.
Also HKS cast lowmount would also be awesome but I think SPG sold the 2 they had, might be wrong. I also think they wanted like $1200 for them. Best call them and check if you are interested in that though.