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Rake

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Posts posted by Rake

  1. Hi All

    Question for any R34 owners out there. A while ago I fitted the Aero/Altia/Whatever you call it front bumper to my R34. This one came with the Foglights, as pictured.

    Before this my car didn't have them fitted. So the foglights aren't wired up to anything.

    I've also procured the switch for them that goes in near the headlight level adjuster (near right knee) (2nd pic, on left).

    r34_10.jpg
    FFog%2001.JPG

    I like to keep things as clean and as factory as possible. I'd prefer to avoid having to hack in a custom loom to make them work, especially if the stock loom already has everything needed already there. There is a "fog lamp" fuse in the engine bay fuse box, which is live (20A). It looks as though the car's standard wiring loom has most if not all of the wiring, so I'm hoping this could be a simple plug-and-play affair. However I can't locate any of the wiring under the dash to hook into.

    Does anyone have a R34 with these lights factory fitted and functional who could shed some light on where everything connects? Namely the switch, the lights themselves, whether or not there's any relays, and how the car behaves (eg, do the lights only come on with headlights, does the fog switch turn parkers/headlights on as well, etc).

    Furthermore would there be anyone in Sydney with these lights who would let me have a poke around their car to work out how these are wired in? As you all probably know, there aren't any complete wiring diagrams floating around on the internet for these cars, so I'm forever having to poke around with a multimeter..

    I have scoured the internet as best I can but the info I'm after just isn't out there.

    Anyone able to help?

    Thanks!

  2. Glad it's useful guys :)

    You wouldn't want high wattage bulbs in these anyway - I think Nissan put 2.7watt ones in these "spot lamps". Even if you added in 2 x 5W bulbs, which many T10 wedges are that people have lying around, that's still under 1 amp additional current draw. I'd think it's a nominal addition to the circuit. If it was a problem (unlikely), probably could just swap the 10 amp fuse (#26) with a 15 amp one.

    Untested thus far - trial and error! I will be doing my drivers door hopefully this week and doing the cabin wiring to finish it off.

    LEDs would probably use bugger all too if you went that way (but being directional could look crap - just my opinion!)

    If you're going to a wrecker, take down one of the lenses and compare / check fitment. Don't discount other cars as well - ones from Bluebirds, Pintaras etc may fit also, maybe even Nissan's 4WDs if they ever had them. Typically though the door lights only ever came in the up-spec luxo models (usually badged Ti's?), so be sure to check them all :) My thoughts, pretty much if the screw holes line up, you're sweet. Don't forget to get the plugs as well!

    Once you've got the parts, and you work out where to wire them in (as we've now figured out :P) this mod is ridiculously straightforward. The difficulty is not in how to make it work, but just the physical running the wiring to the doors. I'm actually running speaker wire at the same time just incase I decide to fit an amp in the future. I'd guess there's posts about running wiring to the doors in stereo install threads if we search. Such info would be useful for this mod.

    Any GTR owners reading this? I'd love to know how the factory GTR ones function, and if I've mimicked it correctly or not.

  3. Wow, was it March when I started on this?

    Sorry if it's a gravedig but whatever. Finally got around to this tonight!

    I'm posting because I believe in sharing content and I'm sure someone will find this thread one day.

    Anyway. The not-so-useful 12mb workshop manual pdf that everyone has contained this gem. I worked out how to wire in the door lights in a useful way, and added it in.

    34dlschem2.png

    Doorlight8.jpg

    The easiest places to get to this loom are behind the dash cluster or at the key barrel. I opted for the latter. So I spliced into the 2 wires and added an extra plug.

    (Ignore the "Connector for light" notation, it's pointing to the "you left your key in" chime thing, the actual connector for the light isn't that one but another very close nearby)

    Anyway. So all that needs to happen is to make a custom loom, running a pair of wires to each door for each light.

    Doorlight9.JPG

    Now these steps may differ depending on what donor car your parts come from, since mine were from a Maxima they needed some modifications, as the Maxima's lenses were presumably different.

    For instance if you got some out of a 34 GTR I doubt you'd need to mod them at all, unless the lenses are different or something.

    Basically involed clipping some bits off, filing out the mating surface so the lens would fit, then shortening down the lens and bulb holder bits so the screws would reach the door card.

    Doorlight10.JPG

    Doorlight11.JPG

    Connect all the wiring. Voila!

    Works flawlessly. Basically, when the ceiling light or key barrel light work, so do the door lights. That means they stay on w/ 15sec delay, turn on/off when locking / unlocking with the remote and so forth.

    Doorlight12.JPG

  4. I know this is a slight gravedig, but whatever.

    I had door lights on my ol' Pintara and I miss the look with my R34. So I was at the wreckers today, took one of the red covers with me and went hunting around.

    I found some door lights on a Maxima, didn't really pay attention to the model but it would be of a similar vintage, so a J30 or the model after that.

    The Maxima must have different lenses as there's little tab things that stick up and stop the Skyline lens sitting properly, but they could easily be cut or filed down. The screw holes line up perfectly and the body of the light holder fits in the Skyline's door card perfectly. So besides flattening the surface down a little, there's virtually zero mucking around necessary. Just screw it in, get power to them, and your're done.

    I havn't wired it up yet myself but that's not going to be a difficult thing.

    Doorlight1.jpg

    Doorlight2.jpg

    Doorlight3.jpg

    Doorlight4.jpg

    Doorlight5.jpg

  5. f) CD brackets + surround $80
    Also have

    - R34 ain con / climate controller $120

    If can confirm: Is the Climate Control set the wider type that sits directly beneath the centre air vents? (Aka: Not the narrower one that goes beneath the Nav unit in the screen-equipped models). Maybe a pic will help if you're not sure of the difference?

    If so, I can offer $160 for the items.

  6. Got these up for grabs. Click thumbnails for bigger pics.

    Location: Western Sydney / Hills District / Parramatta. Pickup, nearby delivery or meet-half-way preferred, Can post for a little extra if it comes to it.

    All this was bought to do a brake upgrade, after research suggested they would fit. They didn't. So unfortunately they're only good to gather dust for me.

    Can PM me, email therake at gmail dot com or SMS 

    4 Pot Calipers, suit 296x30mm. I figure most people here know what these are :) Cleaned them up and painted them red with Duplicolor Red Hitemp, but it's ended up more of a candyish maroon. Give em a quick clean and you could throw your own colour on, or leave as is.

    Asking: $250

    tn_Brakes%201.jpg

    Pair R33 DBA4000 Front Rotors - Brand New

    DBA4000 Series, Slotted. To suit above calipers - 296x30mm. Took one out for fitting, but that's all. The other is still sealed up, both are in brand new condition in box and have not been used.

    DBA Part / Catalogue Numbers: 4963SR + SL.

    Asking: $350

    tn_Brakes%202.jpg tn_Brakes%203.jpg

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