edthemanjp
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Posts posted by edthemanjp
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actually there's 8. here's a pic, you can see the marks on the pressure plate. Wow that's been a while Ed, all sorted?
Yes it has and shes all back together and ready to go back in the car after being mated to an OS tranny. You were absolutely correct about the thrust washer and ring being a pain. I used grease to hold them together while I assebled everything. The thrust washer and ring are also different for the 32 and 33 transfer case. Clearances worked out everything is looking good. I also had trouble with the withdrawel lever linning up, I ended up taking the actuator assy out while I lined up the lever to insert the main shaft and then reinstall the actuator, that took a couple of assemblies to figure out. Yes it was assembled and dissassembled a few times.
I went through this TC because someone had put Red Line Shockproof oil in the TC, I wanted to make sure it was good to go. I would suggest to anyone to not put that thick oil in the TC as it will clog the screen, the holes for feeding the oil from the pump will also clog or flow extremly slow. That oil could possibly even damage the pump.
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Well all seals arrived and I finished putting her back together today. You have to be carefull with the withdrawel lever if its not in the right spot it will make assembly impossible.
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I know I sent some PM's here is my situation. When I install the main shaft and torque down the nut (166-239 FP) I can tighten to only 150fp and the pressure flange is compressed to where the pressure flange rods that enter the drum are 1/2 -3/4 preloaded. This keeps me from installing the snap ring ( I can install the snap ring but I will have no clearance).
I've taken this apart a few times and the next thing I will be looking at is the clutch drum and speedo gear installed completely. Dp these need to be pushed on more, I thoought I had this pushed on as far as it would go but will be checking.
Should the clutch hub have play a little over 1/3 of an inch of travel up and down the shaft?
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Seals are trickling in have 2 waiting for 2 more
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Still waiting for seals
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To change from push to pull you will need all the hardware and the front cover with the pivot pin will need to be changed. I would check the engine itself to answer the crank question, engines get changed so often. The differences externally on the trans and TC are: The 33 GTR or late model 32 tranny will have 2 vent holes on top of the bell housing, there will be 2 locations to mount a push or pull type clutch slave cylinder, hole may not be tapped. The transfer case will have one drain hole for the oil. Internally the later transmission uses different synchros and there are a few things different in the TC case but nothing preventing you from using, it may even be uprated.
Hi all.Just a couple of quick questions that a hope some one can help with, I just got my self a R32 gtr front cut for the main reason that my engine ate a ceramic turbo and on pulling it apart i found that it is of pull type clutch my original car is push type. Ive searched and found that it is around 2/93 or later. This is where my questions start, Is there any difference between the inside of the gearboxes or transfer cases?
Also is there any way to tell if its a 32 or 33 gearbox or are they the same?
From what i have worked out i can either change front plate,fork and bell housing to convert but is there any changes in the hydralic systems between the two? apart from the slave cylinder.
Lastly can anyone confirm if the oil pump drive on the crank was changed at the same time? I will probably have the sump off so i might check this anyway.
Thanks
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33216-05U00 This part I picked up from Infinity
33111-30C00
33140-05U00
33189-05U00
33118-05U00
I'll have these parts in about 4 weeks.
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Please don't worry anything about my stuff, take care of your move thats most important. Thank you for the part numbers, I will get with Nissan.
I'm replacing all the bearings along the main shaft. sourced from local bearing shop
The 33 TC only had 1 rubber o ring, the other difference is the chain gear on the main shaft is cast with the spacer, no seperation. I will check about spacers whe n I get closer.
The clutch packs are in and gappage is good, using old spring for now
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I understand what your saying about the thrust washer and thrust washer ring. I didn't have that seal stuff so I used a little grease and put ATF around to cause a liquid bond till I had it pressed in. I'm currently stopped till I get seals.
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I Have al the sub folders, I downloaded the RAR program, I have torrent installed but I try to right click and "save target as" and it goes for about one minute and dies. Any help on downloading Nissan Fast, the short version and there are 60+ pages here to read through.
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doo doo I cna't send PM's my thread count is not high enough yet. I'm replacing all 4 bearings along the main drive line, we have a company called McGuire bearing, they have almost every bearing known to man and cheaper they have all my bearings in one day. The problem is seals and snap rings.
I have seal part numbers. I think I can reuse the snap rings but the FSM says to replace and I wanted to replace the clutch drum snap ring and seal ring from pump cover page 92 of FSM, these I don't have the part number, do you have these and if so could you tell me what they are?
What type of quick drying sealent did you use?
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should the clutch plates have a thickness tollerance? I'm replacing all seals and anything that seems out of tolerance which brings up an interesting topic. I initially half heartedly cleaned the TC and then put ATF in and spun the gears a lot (used a drill with 1/2 inch drive and socket) but when I opened the pump it only had evidence of gear oil not ATF so it may not be working. You said you had to take a little off the pump (I have a depth micrometer). Did you deck the pump faces to bring the tolerance down? Also after this is done the pump gears also need a tad taken off to function? I will check the pump gears for warpage. Yeah I remember the FSM said replace the pump bolts and I'm glad to see that thread sealant works, on another note the inside of the TC has what looks like residual Thread locker
I only have an R33 engine manual, still looking. Didn't have time to look for seals today but I have a R32 Parts manual (Japanese) which has the seal part numbers and I'm cross referencing these with other Nissan vehicles. Nissan Pathfinder, and currently the AWD lexus share some of the same items, just a matter of finding them, and maybe the pump bolts are the same. Another difference there was only one rubber o ring, the large one. None of the other o rings were present as in the parts manual.
If I have any more I will PM
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Awesome to hear from someone who has done this. I'm reading the FSM and taking it slow but when someone has already plowed the field and their helpfull too, bonus. That was a question I was coming to and I was going to determine or try to determine if I was missing something when I put the clutch packs back in and measure, I was going to check gap again to see how far it was out.
I have to explain a little. I broke 2nd gear on my Route 6 tranny and had obtained an R33 GTR tranny earlier except the R33 tranny had gear oil in the transfer case. I cleaned the R33 tranny completely, checked for damage, and put it back together. I attached my transfer case from my the R32 tranny to the R33 tranny and I'm suing it now no problem. I've got a OS tranny coming minus the transfer case so I want to prepare this transfer case for this tranny
Did you use permatex to seal the case the manual states (sealing fluid 519 part #c1335 31x25) I used the black permatex on the other part of transmission to seal it and it works no problems no leaks yet.
Hey mate, just finished doing my transfer case with new plates, bearings, seals etc- when measuring the gap between the top clutch plate and ring you need to have the hydraulic ram installed also as it pushes on the pack when installed. The distance should be between 0.2-0.5mm on an R32. As far as I'm aware there is a small amount of preload on the R33 transfer. Not sure what else is different.Watch that the clutch hub doesn't pop too far out (towards top of case) or the two retaining half circlips can pop out (undo the lot again to re-do)- that's why the manual suggests you put 2 small drops of retaining compound on the ring and half circlips when installing.
The bottom plate in the clutch pack set up is the 5mm one. If you need slome explaining or assistance in measuring the clearance for the shim between the top bearing on the clutch hub and the top plate let me know- I have a 1mm, 5mm and 6mm shims left over.
The heat pattern is also from the welding of the hub base.
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Well I checked the clearance on the clutch packs and there a little out, clutch packs look okay. Will purchase a thicker retainer plate as per FSM and put it back together.
By the pictures u can tell it got a little warm
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I have a transfer case I got from someone who at some point put gear oil in the transfer case. This came with a transmission. I do not know how long it was used like this but I'm taking it apart to clean up, check the clutch plates, and put back together for use.
I've noticed that the 33 transfer case dosen't have the oil gutter as illustrated in the FSM for the 32.
Does anyone know what the thickness on the plates shoud be or any way to tell if they need replacing?
The other question is how do you determine if it is okay to use off the car?
I currently have the box dissasembled.
R32 Gtr Headlight Switch Bug Solved
in General Maintenance
Posted
This worked for me
The situation: Passenger side headlight low beam doesn't work, tail lights and front marker lights don't work, and dash lights don't work.
After a couple days going through wiring testing the switch. After few blown fuses, busted knuckles, and cramped back looking up at a wiring harness under the dash. After replacing a lost switch spring with a cut down Zippo lighter flint spring (great replacement actually works better than original) I have half of the headlight issues figured out.
The reason the connector is burnt is due to arcing, arcing is caused by absence of contact. The switch doesn't make good contact with the wiring harness, it jumps around inside the contact, it needs to fit tighter. I tried grease that didn't work. Finally I did what I have done in the past I slightly bent the contacts a few degrees (about 15 degrees) then reattached and it fits really snug. The first time I twisted them too much and the switch wouldn't attach to the wiring harness so I had to readjust.
Test: Tail lights, front marker lights, and dash lights work. I have not tested to see if passenger light works attached to original harness as I'm happy with my current status and didn't want a let down, will test later.
Conclusion: This section of the wiring harness needs to be replaced along with a new switch, a better switch. The new wiring harness needs to remain snug while attached to the switch. The wiring harness may need to be taped to the bracket to eliminate bouncing during aggressive driving.