**RB2530**
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Posts posted by **RB2530**
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Please stay away from Newcastle NSW whenever it is raining and I am on the road...(unless you are on a bus or train)...
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Hey mate,
Am after price for 245/40/17 in whatever semi slicks you have + freight to Newcastle.
cheers
2 req'd btw..
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Hey mate,
Am after price for 245/40/17 in whatever semi slicks you have + freight to Newcastle.
cheers
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This topic is also a testament to the fact that you have a tendency to substitute the letter 'c' with the letter 'p'... and also 'n' for 'm' for that matter...
I hoce you fix your brakes uc before you rear-emd sone poor immopemt cersom!!
btw in case you haven't worked it out yet, it is an exclamation mark...>>!!!!
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What head are you using??
You do realise if it is a rb25 with VCT there is an oil gallery that needs to be plugged as it lines up with a water gallery in the rb30 block....
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Now for a reply a little less tact full....SEARCH!!!
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First of all R&R is triggered by excessive knock...The ECU 'does' remember this because it enacts Rich and Retard maps and slowly creeps back to the factory maps over time (unless of course excessive knock is detected again then it goes back to R&R and so on..) Resetting ECU does clear R&R unless there is a fault in the knock sensor. From memory it is either error 55 or error 53 for a faulty knock sensor. Btw disconnecting knock sensors will cause ECU to default to R&R.
What you are talking about (cold nights etc), I think, is air-flow cut which is 'not!' R&R. Air flow-cut happens when AFM exceeds a threshold voltage. The threshold increases with rpm. As soon as the threshold afm voltage is exceeded, the ECU cuts fuel and ignition. As soon as the afm voltage drops below the threshold voltage, fuel and ignition return, until the afm voltage exceeds the threshold again. It is a binary function.(ie air-flow cut is either on or off). There is no learning or memory involved. Turn the boost down (reduce air flow) and the ECU is happy.
R&R and airflow cut is about the most misunderstood topic on these forums.
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Getting back to the original question the answer is no.
Most of us will suggest giving this modification a miss as there is nothing to be gained other than a bit of noise and a shitty return to idle/stall from doing it.
It might get the ladeez neked though.
Here is another reason why u should not do it...
Depending on your religous beliefs (ie your belief on whether or not the universe is unlimited and therefore infinite) there is only a certain number of english letters (abcdefg etc etc) left on the internet.
So many letters have already been wasted on useless debates regarding this topic!!!....Even if you do this mod and get the same results as the 10,000,000 other people who already have (you would know if you searched first), another tedious debate would ensue and hence, the END of the internet would be that little bit closer...
Think more about the future of our humanity!!! Don't do it!!!
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If anyone is missing a silver V35 350GT with nsw rego BEE-7XX with 18"alloys or knows who owns it could you please PM me ASAP....
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I think some of you are mistaking tie rods, LCA ball joints, LCA bushes etc!!!..All these items vary considerably in price and ease of changing..
There is a joint in the "king pin" but it is a single axis bearing. Some nissans have a single bearing race and some have two...it is not a ball joint!!!
I suspect this is what the mechanic is talking about...
As far as I know the king pin bearings very rarely need replacing. I dont know what kits are available or if you need to replace the whole king pin assembly.
Anyway just trying clear away the small fog of misinformation that appeared to be rolling in...
good luck with it...
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Are you sure you just need to bypass your AFM???
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Cam,
Not so sure what are doing agrees with my position on riceness....
But because you seem to know a bit about what you are doing, I will give you a hint regarding the resistor...
Calculating the resistance is only part of the equation...You also need to work out what wattage resistor is req'd to dissipate the heat... If you get this wrong you will get smoke then a pop...
Hint is as follows... P=VxI sub in V=IxR get P=IxIxR or P=I^2 x R
In 10 Ohm, the largest resistor I have seen is 10watt... But if you put 2x 20 Ohm 10 watt resistors in parallel you get 10 Ohm 20watt etc etc...
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right.. so NTP is needed for a compression test? and having your throttle closed varies the temp? and WOT fixes this?
No...NTP is not required...But having a standard process such as WOT is and in the event that an engine manufacturer wants to test for and publish target comp test data they would do it in an environment close to NTP or STP.
Having throttle closed does mean air is hotter during comp test (if comp test done with engine warmed up). Simple reason is with TB closed not as much additional air is drawn into the intake. So majority of air drawn into cylinder is air that has been sitting in the plenum and come up to engine temp.
With WOT ambient air is drawn in engine easily...
Also by way of energy balance, some of the energy consumed in producing the vacuum in the closed TB case would dissipate as heat in the air drawn into the cylinder.
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i can make up abbreviations and pretend i know stuff too... LOL.
with the throttle closed while you perform a compression test your pistons will try draw air in while the inlet valves are open and cause resistance against the rings (vacuum) while the motor turns. so if the motor begins its compression stroke with -10psi your compression test will show up 10psi lower. pretty much what Paul said but less technical.
NTP is a term they use in physics, here we'd just use "0 vacuum" as the air does not need to be at a 'normal' temperature and the air entering the combustion chamber isnt actually pressurised. it is the chamber that is causing the pressure.
Zero pressure (compared to atmospheric) is still a pressure and everything has a temperature...On earth anyway...
Also....awww shit, dont have time and I can't be bothered....
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isnt that why you push your foot all the way to the floor on the accelerator when u crank it? can u just remove the relay to the fuel pump instead?
One reason for WOT during comp test is to allow NTP (lets see who knows what NTP means??) air to into cylinders. If you didn't do this the resultant peak cylinder pressures would be lower as there would be at a vacuum in all cylinders during cranking.
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having said that.. you can still get a cool reversion sound by having the bov recirc line enter after the turbo.. not in the intake.
And still protect your compressor because you still have a BOV fitted???
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Dont like the sound and think its stupid close the thread and move on.
Trouble is we get absolutely inundated with threads like this all the time...Rice modifications all aimed at getting a certain sound or certain look only...Quite often sounds and looks that make 'all' of us targets of the law...This pisses me off!!
Now if we don't at least make an attempt to quell threads like this by using deserved words such as knob etc, imagine how ricey SAU will become!!! 2 out of 3 threads will be titled "How do I make my Skyline sound / look like a 14yo really did design it??"
So maybe relax a bit on the people making their thoughts on ricey mods known because ricey mods make us all targets...If you dont like people doing this, close the thread and move on...
Feeling better now...btw Tututuriffic thread guys!!!
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Check your fuel pressure....
Double check with a search but should be around 45psi with vac/boost signal removed...
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I was being sarcastic, all the xr6's around me have the bov removed and blanked off for some stupid reason.
Sorry
...I didn't detect your sarcasm..it happens sometimes... -
I don't see trucks running BOVs
Diesels do not actually use a throttle body to control engine rpm...
Most diesels don't have throttle butterflies either, maybe I should rip that out of mine too...I have never heard any truck making that gay dose noise so there must be some sort of pressure release?
The VL turbo and XR6t's came with no bov from factory didn't they? All the ones around my place anyway.
I have only seen 2 XR6t's under the hood and they both had Bosch CBVs fitted...They were stock standard and on display at different motor shows...
As far as the VL turbo is concerned they are a getting quite old now....My first car (Mk1 escort) did not have EFI...does that mean I should fit carbies to my GTSt??
Also, since when do we use Holden as a bench mark for design??
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Slim build eh??...How much weight do you think you can pack on between now and your court date??
To me their case sounds weak but you should seek some legal advice...It may be a case of them hoping you will get to court and make an admission etc...
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He didn't say it cuts out, he said it coughs and splutters and I HAVE had that happen from a leaking cooler pipe, it was basically a clamp not tightened up, it would be fine until it built enough boost to pop open the leak and then died in the ass (hence asking about it belching heaps of black smoke).
And doesn't limp mode limit to about 2000rpm? 4-5000rpm is usually spark breaking down.. particularly with the coughing and spluttering.
AFM over voltage cut is a harsh CUT similar to the overspeed cut, not coughing and spluttering.
AFM over voltage is a harsh cut but the reaction time for it to occur and for it to reset is very quick. From what I have seen Nissan don't have any damping or delay on its reistatement of spark / fuel.
In cases where airflow hits the cut threshold very hard (rising rate of air flow is high) , it really jolts the car around. Where if the airflow is close to reaching its peak anyway and is just on the threshold of cutting(threshold rises with rpm) you can get a coughing and spluttering.
The reason there is a difference is that the time taken for airflow to drop below the threshold cut level for both scenarios will be different due to airflow overshoot effects.. ie the higher the rising rate of airflow, the longer it will take for airflow to drop below threshold.
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If it's a stock ECU, sounds like it's on LIMP mode, this occurs when the AFM is faulty or disconnected.
Disconnected cooler piping will result in a fked up idle, leaking cooler piping usually doesn't cut out at 4000rpm, car just runs like a POS
If it is badly leaking (disconnected) intake pipework I doubt very much you could get the engine to rev to 4000rpm.
If it is a moderate leak (split hose connector hose etc) TC will spool more as it is not loaded as much by the back pressure of the intake. This will still cause excessive air flow through AFM and trigger airflow cut.
...I didn't detect your sarcasm..it happens sometimes...
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