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sleeper7

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Posts posted by sleeper7

    "stolen" Gts Silhouette

    in Victoria

    Posted · Edited by sleeper7

    ^^ LOL.

    Yeah seriously just post a bigger pic, it's not that hard.

    its the only one he had and if u dont know what a S2 gts looks like, u should b shot with a ball of ur own poo!

    seriously, if ur not here to help - keep ur comments to urself, its not a laughing matter and i aint f*kn laughn' either

    "stolen" Gts Silhouette

    in Victoria

    Posted

    Hey fellas, needed some help finding a stolen car that was taken from Coburg West on the weekend Licence RKU-035

    Build #012 (number can be found on glove compartment exterior)

    Car is all original but paint has faded a bit since the photo was taken and front bar is a little rough. Has a small nismo sticker on the rear windscreen.

    Any help would be appreciated, especially with a rare care like this, I don't want it toasted...

    Steve 0435 317 109post-43794-0-24835900-1316007863_thumb.jpg

    Power And Idle Issue When Warm

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    Ok, well i've solved my problem. The cold idle control valve (not sure if that is the correct terminology, but that is what it does) is stuck open, which is why the car runs fine when it is cold (albeit idling quite high), but then as it gets warm the engine is getting too much air and it starts driving like crap. So it is pretty much a vacuum leak.

    Steve, in case this solves your problem as well I'll try to go into a bit more detail so you can check it out. Just to clarify, the cold idle control valve is not the ACC idle control valve, but it is near it. You will see on the ACC valve that it has the vacuum hose coming off it yeh? That vacuum hose joins onto two other hoses with a T-Piece. The bottom hose is the one you want, follow it down and it leads to the cold idle control valve which is located near the throttle body. Doesn't look like much, it is just a sort of metal plate where the hose joins onto. This valve has a metal disc that opens when it is cold, and is meant to close when it is warm, but for some reason on my mates car it is stuck open and won't shut.

    We have blocked off the bottom connector of the T-piece and the hose leading to the idle control valve (really need to block it off well because it easily becomes unstuck when you hit boost), and this has solved the problems, although it will now be a bit rough when it is cold. Otherwise it drives perfect again.

    Thanks for the post mate, but there is no chance of getting this off in an r33 without taking the plenum chamber off from what i can see. Iv'e tried for two days now with no hope. I actually let the car warm up until it started to idle rough then clamped the hose, this didn't do anything at all, so i'm stumped. I'll just take it to an auto elect when I get a chance. Thanks for your help though.

    Cheers Steve.

    Power And Idle Issue When Warm

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    Ok, well i've solved my problem. The cold idle control valve (not sure if that is the correct terminology, but that is what it does) is stuck open, which is why the car runs fine when it is cold (albeit idling quite high), but then as it gets warm the engine is getting too much air and it starts driving like crap. So it is pretty much a vacuum leak.

    Steve, in case this solves your problem as well I'll try to go into a bit more detail so you can check it out. Just to clarify, the cold idle control valve is not the ACC idle control valve, but it is near it. You will see on the ACC valve that it has the vacuum hose coming off it yeh? That vacuum hose joins onto two other hoses with a T-Piece. The bottom hose is the one you want, follow it down and it leads to the cold idle control valve which is located near the throttle body. Doesn't look like much, it is just a sort of metal plate where the hose joins onto. This valve has a metal disc that opens when it is cold, and is meant to close when it is warm, but for some reason on my mates car it is stuck open and won't shut.

    We have blocked off the bottom connector of the T-piece and the hose leading to the idle control valve (really need to block it off well because it easily becomes unstuck when you hit boost), and this has solved the problems, although it will now be a bit rough when it is cold. Otherwise it drives perfect again.

    thanks mate, id definately give it a go and let u know

    Power And Idle Issue When Warm

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    I think i might have a similar problem with my mates car, is it like this:

    This is the first video. In this video i had just started the car, so this video shows what the car does when it is cold:

    Now this is the second video. This was about after 1 minute of driving, notice the revs at the very start of the video... Then i accelerate a bit and you can clearly see that the car drives fine all the way to redline:

    This third video is after about 3 minutes of driving. When it goes to about 3.5k rpm is when i changed into 3rd gear to show you that the car drives fine when decelerating. Then i turn a corner and accelerate to 4k rpm, car still drives fine then. After about 0.37 seconds into the video is when you need to turn the volume up a bit to hear the engine. Notice how it lurches? That is the car, not me:

    This is the 4th video, after about 5 minutes of driving, i had got back to my house and was sitting in the driveway. This is how it idles after just a quick 5 minute drive:

    So just to summarize, car idles fine when first started (was a little bit rough initially, but after about 5 seconds it came right and sat at 1.5k rpm which is when i started filming). But then while driving the car lurches if you have the throttle slightly open to cruise. Decelerating is fine, doesn't lurch at all. Acceleration is fine, doesn't lurch at all. But if you sit on the throttle a little bit just to maintain your speed, then the car lurches like in the 3rd video.

    Same sort of problem? If so, anyone able to help us, I'm so stumped by this problem. Same boat, have replaced the AAC valve, cleaned AFM, tried unplugging AFM but it runs much worse, have checked for vacuum leaks but found nothing... Car is a completely stock R32 GTST except for 3" turbo back exhaust, pod filter, and alloy radiator.

    Spot on.. same thing

    Power And Idle Issue When Warm

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    Hi guys,

              Having trouble the last couple of weeks with my r33 s2. When cold runs fine no probs but I drive for about 5 mins or so and car bogs down on acceleration almost to the point of putting my head through the windscreen then taking off then bogging, making me look like an absolute tard. When I come to a stop, the idle will fluctuate from 100 to 1500rpm, up and down, up and down car shaking a little, sometimes blows a little white smoke, just a puff. It started of only slightly, now its at the point that it cannot be driven warm. I've cleaned the afm, aac and still the problem exists. My only guess is the 02 sensor, as it runs great when cold.

    Any suggestions would be great

    thx steve 

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