Mayuri Krab
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Posts posted by Mayuri Krab
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My skyline is like a sherman tank vs my "daily" BMW E90 335i.
It's been my back up car evertime the e90 has another "issue".
24 years old, godknows how many kms on the odo (fairly certain its being wond back), no engine issues yet...
Google "n54 meme" if you really want a high maintaince performance car (thaylt isn't a supercar) that chucks CELs everytime you fart in the seat lol
And BMW considers 1l oil every 1600km within specification for oil onsumption lol
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Almost 8 years on plain cheapo $20 (when on special) Gulf Western Synx 3000 10w40 oil.
Still drives fine and no noticable oil consumption inbetween servicing (every 5k to 10k km or 6 month)
Since owning a modified BMW, that's amazing lol.
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On 01/09/2016 at 7:12 AM, Steve85 said:
@Mayuri Krab, is your car that awesome green? I'd love to see some close up pictures of it when it's washed? I've seen a few (like 2 or 3) that are that colour. Love it!
Deep Green.
Unfortunately if you want close up shots of it wash that's probably gonna be a long wait as I haven't washed any of my cars (my Skyline's got a nice coat of dust LOL) for a long time.
I use this car as a long distance cruiser (and do several thousand kms on WA's rural back roads several times every year and my parents live in rural suburb too, which requires driving on unpaved dirt roads) so I've long since given up on making it look 'clean'
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The list of errors/faults on my BMW right now...
Basically a dead ABS control module causing all sorts of shenanigans, and water getting into one headlight (failed internal seal due to age) frying a control module that controls the fancy 'cornering' lights and a brand new ABS module is over $2k USD from US or about $4k locally from a indy shop for the part alone (and you still need to get it 'coded' with a proper BMW coding tool from dealership or indy shop even if you DIY the install)...
I must add that my Skyline also suffers from the same 'water getting into head light issue' but because there's no fancy electronic control modules to break there all I did to 'fix' was drill some 'drainage' holes on the bottom of the light assembly to let the water drain out...
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2007 BMW 335i, owned about 3 years now.
Have JB4 piggy back tune + Backend Flash (running ~15psi on stock twin turbos), AR down-pipes, ER chargepipe + Forge Divter valves, BMS POD filters, RB PCV valve and BMW oil catch can, makes about 260kw + tad over 500Nm at the wheels.
No exterior mods (besides the CCCP stickers
) and with the stock ulgy 17" wheels (found on lower spec poverty models) makes a good sleeper to blend in and zero police attention vs the Skyline.
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After owning my modified BMW 335i for over 3 years, the Skyline is a phenomenal daily when it comes to servicing costs and repairs (anything 1/2 major breaks on the BMW is like over $1k for the parts and multiply this by 3-4 times if buying locally)...
So much so I parked the BMW for now (currently suffering from ABS failure, leaky turbo seals, adpative head light failure and some other random ECU error codes) and went back to driving the beater Skyline as a daily work horse =D
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PODs IMO would be one of the last things things to have major problems when using fake/cheap ones...
I'm currently running some $20 ebay POD in mine right now, I reused the gaskets from my Apexi one (and cleaned it with filter cleaner for use later on when this one gets dirty).
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And some games (mostly RTS games, like city skylines) do show noticeable increase in frame rate when going from i5 to i7 and when OCing as those games are generally more CPU bond... if all you play is FPS shooters then CPU won't make that much of a difference (even an i3-6100 still works fine on most of those type of games when paired with a med range graphics card) .
Look up on youtube, there's also some reviews that shows that certain games also befits slightly (5-10 extra fps) with faster RAM (stock 2133 vs all the way up to 3200)
And I've a high end mainstream i7 (2600k) OCed at 4.2Ghz from 5 years ago and it still handles current gen games fine (with an updated med range last gen graphics card, Geforce 970).
My default gaming rig recommendation (for someone with a decent budget) would be:
i5 6600k or i7 6700k
Big air cooler (not a fan of those basic entry level AIO water coolers)
Z170 mobo of your choice (I usually just go with a 'normal' Asus one like the Asus Z170-AR)
16 GB 3000Mhz Ram of your choice
250GB/500GB Samsung EVO 850 (best bang for buck/reliability SSD right now IMO), can upgrade to the 950pro if you want extra speed (although I personally don't find the increased speed noticable for gaming/everyday use.
Secondary 7200rpm HDD of whatever size you think you need (whatever brand you want)
Geforce 1070 Graphics card (can maintain stable 60fps on high/ultra for almost all games at 1440p resolution or getting over 100fps constantly at 1080p res), you can save quite a bit of money by ordering the card from the US and if you do that I recommend getting EVGA brand as they have intentional warranty.
~600w quality PSU or upgrade to ~850w PSU if you plan on SLIing later (I personally find it more hassle with multi-GPU setups) and 1000+W PSUs are complete waste of money IMO unless you are running tri/quad GPUs setups (which right now is not possible with the new gen Pascal Nvidia cards).
And lastly if you play a lot of fast paced shooters I would consider a 144Hz Gsync Monitor (or Freesync if you are going with an AMD card).
Hope this helps.
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My old rig:
CPU: Intel i7 2600K @ 4.2Ghz
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D14
Mobo: Asus P8Z68-deluxe
Ram: 8Gb G.Skill Ripjaw-X 2133
GPU: Gigabyte Geforce 970 GTX G1
SSD 1: Curical M4 128Gb
SSD 2: ST 64 Gb
HDD 1: 1 TB Samsung 7,200rpm
HDD 2: WD Black 2TB
HDD 3: WD Green 2TB
HDD 4: WD Green 2TB
Optical Drive: Liteon BD-writer
Case: Antec 1200
PSU: Cosair TX-650Whttp://members.iinet.net.au/~xmxing88/Computer/DSC_1306.JPG
New secondary gaming rig:
CPU: Intel i5 6600K @ 4.4Ghz
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U12S
Mobo: Asus Z170M-Plus
Ram: 16Gb G.Skill Ripjaw V F4-3200C16D
GPU: MSI Geforce 1070 Gaming X
SSD: Samsung EVO 850 250GB
HDD 1: WD Blue 1TB
HDD 2: WD Blue 1TB
Case: Aerocool DS Cube Black
PSU: Cosair RMx-550Whttp://members.iinet.net.au/~xmxing88/Computer/DSC_1296.JPG *
*Picture of it before it had the 1070 Graphics card.
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On 07/08/2016 at 8:37 PM, StaceyR34GTT said:
Can cops in WA pick up signals from radar detectors and will know that you have one? I'm looking at buying the Valentine 1 as it seem to be the popular choice
AFAIK cops in WA don't run RDD (radar detector detector lol) in their cars as they are still legal to use here, unlike over east (where you can get grilled for like over $2k in fines and excess of something like 20 demerit points).
At least no cop has ever pulled me over on the basis of me running a radar detector (V1 is not stealth) and I've being driving with it for well over 5 years...
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I've a V1 for a couple of years now, "saved" by it a couple of times.
It works well and gives enough warning (provided you aren't excessively speeding) against a typical forward facing mobile camera setup. However is pretty useless if the camera is in a rear facing setup and/or against police with laser guns (as those are not on all the time and by the time the cop snipes you, you are already done).I've attached mine near the top of the wind screen (where the passenger sun visor is) and usually not noticeable and hence no cop has picked it up so far, but now days I drive my BMW as a daily (with my V1 still attached) and that car just blends in with the rest of traffic and doesn't attract police attention so I guess there's that.
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I'll buy it when it hits the bargain bins later on, I no longer get hyped up on any triple a titles these days.
Instead I'm looking forward to see if taletells would release a season 3 of the walking dead game.
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Bigger wheels makes this looks much better than the regular wrx, who looks top heavy/bloated with those tiny stock rims and tires.
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When I did my family road trip from Perth to Adelaide (and copper peddy), the rental company gave me a Mitsubishi SUV thing instead of the Subaru liberty wagon that I was supposed to get.
God that was one of the biggest gutless pos I've ever driven, was pretty much driving it with the pedal to the floor everytime I took off from the lights on roads with anything but 40-50km/h speed limits and it made my dad's diesel 4x4 felt like a prosche 911 in comparison and my modified bmw like a F22 jet.
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So they killed off the only interesting car they had in the entire line up, and talks about making it into another 'soccer mum tank that will never see any off roading' crap?
Why god why...
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Car: 1993 R33 GTST
Basic bolt on mods, about 180rwkw
Maxxis MA-V1
Size: 225/40/18
Dry: C+
Wet: E
Value D
Cheapo tyres that came bundled with my China spec Wheels, does ok in the dry as long as you aren't pushing it 10/10. However once in the wet (or any hint of rain on the road) then forget about it, I get wheel spin (followed by the back end trying to step out) out when taking off at the lights even with just ~20% throttle and not on boost (as verified by my SAFC 2 readout).
Even my dad (who drives with a grandpa foot) complained how there was no traction when he drove the car while his diesel 4x4 was getting serviced.
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I think Euro cars are the current flavour of the month, and are more affordable than they were in the mid 2000s.
Japanese cars only really picked up in the early to mid 2000s because our laws changed and they became a lot more affordable to everyone.
Id say the cost of new cars, and the affordability of higher speced Euro cars has stopped alot of people importing Japanese cars now. There is the odd diehard still out there but
Sounds like me...
I have moved to a BMW 335i now days, mainly for the absolute sleeper factory (my looks like a poverty spec 320i from the outside) and I'm more into the performance sedans rather than coupes now days.
I was leaving work with a buddy who has an S15 at ~10:30pm, a police car came in the opposite direction and immediately did a U-turn and I saw him getting pulled over, next day I saw him there's a nice big fat yellow sticker. The police never even noticed me despite my car having more power than his and is faster down the 1/4.
I still have the R33 as a backup and compared to the BMW, parts are super easy to find and cheap as chips (was quoted over $4k for a ABS/DSC module unit for the BMW
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I've being using what ever 'on special' 10w40 oil Repco/SCA has (~$20-30, usually Gulf western or Shell) along with a $10 Ryco filter.
Being like this for years and no issues.
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How do you guys get neat cable managements?
My case looks like a rats nest inside with explosions of cables everywhere, and my poor attempt at cable managements only made the inside 1000xs worse... -
Nemu (R33) and Kikyo (335i).
Named after anime characters.
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Well I ended up buying a 3TB red and a 2TB black.
Installed the red on to my NAS & rebuilt the RAID in my NAS, meanwhile trying to savage what ever I can from the dead Green before I replace it with the black.
I'm guessing I should consider upgrading my current OS SSD (old 128GB Cruical M4) to a bigger SSD, is Intel SSDs still the king in terms of long term reliability? Thinking of getting a 480GB Intel 730...
My Cruical has being fine, bar one firmware bug (causing it to freeze up every hour after it has clocked a certain # of hours of on time), but that was fixed with a firmware update.
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I'll be adding another 3TB red drive to my NAS to expand the storage, already used >70% of the current 6TB (9TB RAID 5).
But I'm not sure what to replace the died green drive with, will manily be used as a scratch disk for Torrent downloads (which could remain on there for 1/2 a year or more, seeing how I usually only move it over to the NAS once I got an entire season of TV shows/Animes).
Thinking of just grabing a WD blue (only $60ish) or shell out for a 1TB black ($90ish)?
Then again, my main game drive (1TB Samsung 7.2k rpm) is almost full, so I might use it for games storage too, which would mean black is faster for that vs blue?
Staying as far away from the greens that's for sure...
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& looks like another WD green drive is about to die... f**king these must be the biggest unreliable POS ever made. Looks like simply loading up bittorrent is enough to wear the POS out fast enough to die within a year of 'moderate' usage.
My old Samsung 7.2k rpm drive which I carried over from the old Intel Core 2 era (5+ years) is still working flawlessly mean while 2 of these f**king useless garabage all kicked the bucket in about 2-3 years.
Now the issue is what drive should I get to replace these useless paper weights, maybe the WD blacks or Segate 'normal' 7.2k drives are better?
My NAS is running 3x WD 3TB red drives atm, these current experience with WD isn't giving me much confidence./rant
EDIT: I still got 2 more of these green drives left, lets see how long these f**kers can last...
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Seems I need to post a TLDR version here.
Will maybe write it out if I can remember it all
Had car for 7 years
is a daily (lol)
Done 27,000kms total in 7 years
This car is on
its 2nd chassis
its 5th engine (and third rebuild)
its 9th fuel pump
its 2nd diff (and set of axles!)
its 3rd set of suspension
its 4th? transmission
its 3rd ECU
its 3rd turbo
its 3rd (sort of) manifold
its 3rd fuel tank
its 4th set of tyres (in 27,000kms?)
its 3rd set of brakes (as in set of front calipers, discs)
its 3rd exhaust
as you can imagine, the non TLDR version of this is very long
..and still going
Are you certain your car is even a car and not one of these?
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) and with the stock ulgy 17" wheels (found on lower spec poverty models) makes a good sleeper to blend in and zero police attention vs the Skyline.
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"dimple" Neodymium Magnetic Drain Plug Group Buy #3!
in Group Buys
Posted
Mine is still on the car some 6+ years later. No leaks although the rubber gasket looks pretty worn last time i changed the oil.