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seanp351

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Posts posted by seanp351

  1. Try this Formula it works out the same as Moroso power calculator<br style="-webkit-box-shadow: none !important; "><br style="-webkit-box-shadow: none !important; ">Need speed and vehicle weight with driver<br style="-webkit-box-shadow: none !important; "><br style="-webkit-box-shadow: none !important; ">.00426 x MPH x = = x weight <br style="-webkit-box-shadow: none !important; "><br style="-webkit-box-shadow: none !important; "><br style="-webkit-box-shadow: none !important; ">.00426 x 118 x == x 3400 = 431.8 , same as Moroso if you set speed and check against weight.

    Vehicle weight must be in pounds (2.2 pounds to a Kilo) and it gives rear wheel horsepower

    So in your case it would be

    .00426 x 97.22 x == x 3146 = 223.49 HP

  2. Had a call from a mate "can you come around and help with my brakes" turned up and he had been going at the rear drums on his ute for an hour with every type of hammer or anything he could hit the drums with "these bloody drums won't come off they must be seized' he says so I reached into the car and took the handbrake off, bang both drums fell onto the floor,he felt like a total tool and still had to pay me the six pack he had promissed.lol lots!

  3. I've pulled out the car mats, they're nice plush Stagea branded one's but I think there're too impregnated with the smoke smell. Actually the smoke smell isn't too bad but it's mixed with the strong air freshener and so it'll take a bit to get rid of it.

    I'm going to get the interior steam cleaned and found a good carpet treatment. Where is the AC inlet actually? I assume under the bonnet somewhere....

    Put AC onto recirculate and spray the inlet at the passengers side footwell up the front left side of the centre hump you should be able to feel it pulling air past your hand,it will pull it into the system by itself.When your AC is on fresh air intake it should be breathing from outside of the car through the plenum just below your windscreen.therefore unless the smell is outside there should not be any smoke traces in this part of the ducting.Good luck!

  4. Try using a product called "Febreeze" spray it everwhere including in your A/C inlet and ducts while running.You may have to do it a few times to get rid of it alltogether.I had good success with it in getting rid of the pungent smell from having a family of rats set up home in a car that I had stored for about 2 years it took a few goes but eventually the smell dissapeared.

  5. You can use either "permatex aviation form-a -gasket #3" or "loctite aviation #3" both these products are a liquid type gasket sealant and are petrol,oil,water and anti-freeze safe,they can also be used on pipe and thread seals.I have been using them for years on many different engines and applications with no problems and great results as you can see they are designed for aviation uses as well.You can get these products from just about any spare parts shops even super cheap have them now.They were originally recomended to me by a mechanical engineer and are tried and proven products.Good luck with tour install cheers.

  6. Guess we should discuss that now as I have not had time to organise the cruise route as of yet. Any opinions are more than welcome as these next few weeks im going to be busy as hell and prob not have time to check this all out.

    Are we doing a round the world trip that is start at EFI and return to EFI for BBQ/drinks and dynos'?

  7. name='Torques' date='4 Apr 2009, 06:38 PM' post='4517904']

    However I was reading through the downpipe mounting thread and what I don't want

    is a downpipe without heat shields mount holes.

    Nissan put the heat shields in for a good reason and I don't want to end up with melted

    plastic parts anywhere near the elbow/down pipe

    Did you read the whole thread as I explained in my post if you use allen key headed bolts in the 2 positions that I stated you should have no problem fitting the heat shields back on mine fitted without any hassles?

  8. Fitted my JJR bell mouth dump yesterday to my R33 Ser11 was one of the easiest bolt on exhaust upgrades ever,took about 90min from start to finish including removal of old dump/front pipe.I used 2 allen key bolts on the 2 middle holes where it is closest to the pipe no interference problems with this method also wrapped dump pipe from bell to just below firewall with heat wrap,original turbo gaurd and mount for this went back on without having to alter them at all,trick is start all bolts at bell end first then connect collector end and then return to bell end and tighten all bolts in a cross sequence then tighten collector end last.I have fitted many extractors to v8s and you should try fitting a set to a big block chev into a GTR torana talk about dramas like trying toi stuff a size 12 foot into a size 6 shoe.

  9. Thanks very much mate, really handy... 1 thing though, I may have a few differences to a normal turbo setup as I added a turbo to this engine? ... obveously I dont have a factory boost guage so I don't know where you guys get your signals by default.

    one final thing. you said you tee'd it before the regulator... where is that exactly? :P

    cheers

    Before the reg is between the end of the plenum where the pressure line originates and before it goes into the pressure reg.What car are you fitting it to?

  10. Hey guys,

    just a quicky, Ive installed my Gizzmo ms-ibc boost controller, but I havent cut a line yet to run the pressure off.

    The manuel says to get it from the fuel pressure regulator line (i.e the line sticking out of the plenum to the fuel rail), but I have heard that this can be dangerous if something goes wrong with the fuel pressure? maybe I just dreamt this?

    The manuel also says not to get it from the bov... but thats where I have been getting my boost gauge readings from and that has been accurate.

    I just want to make sure before I cut in the wrong place and do damage :P

    Cheers,

    Adam

    P.S i searched a few different things and couldnt really find what I was after

    Adam,

    I have a gismo MS-IBC running on my R33SER2 for about a year and teed into the fuel pressure reg line before the regulator and this one runs to yor boost solinoid and then tee into where the factory boost gauge picks up it's signal from the back of the plenum and run this one through the firewall to the controller in the cab,you will have no problems with this set up and it is accurate.You don,t tee into the line to your bov as this can give false pressure readings to both the gauge/controler and your bov as well.

  11. i rekon they are crap from my past experiences. Thing would always boost creep on high boost. Low boost (12psi ) was fine

    "Past experience" was this with the earlier model as it had poor spike control and no duty cycle adjustments,I had the same comment from my tuner untill he saw the new version I installed,he has now changed his opinion on these controllers.(by the way my tuner is a well known and respected drag race engine builder,racer and tuner here in brisbane he is know considering using one in his 650hp supra)

  12. I haven't been able to find much info about people's experiences with the Gizzmo MS-IBC or HDI's EBC's, I've been planning to put an EBC on my R32 GTR (only want 14psi for now) but I have yet to read reviews or personal experiences with either. I understand both company's use a single solinoid, and shouldn't be compared with the older japanese EBCs that are single solinoid.. or should I be ignoring the above 2 mentioned company's EBCs and get a dual solinoid based EBC?

    I have had an ms-ibc in my r33 s2 for over 12mnths now and would recomend it to anyone.was told by a reputable tuner her in brisbane that they wern't that good,until i installed it myself and let him have a play with it,he was shocked at how much they had improved from previous versions which did not have any duty cycle ajustments.This product was so easy to set up that he didn't change any of the settings that I put in myself even after he ran it up on the dyno(I self tuned on the road took about an hour to do all 6 boost levels).This car is driven as a daily driver by my wife and I set levels of boost for driving in very adverse conditions through to all out thrash mode and have knothing but "fun "since.Holds all levels of boost consistantly with no spiking and brings on the boost up to 1000-1500 rpm ealier than standard solinoid.Another advantage that I have found is that both the solinoid and the cotroll unit are small enough to hide away so the powers to be can't find them(have been pulled up a few times and they still havn't discovered it yet Ha HA HA take that.So do touself a favour chech out "GIZMO'S' web site it is very informative,these units are very well priced also lol.

  13. i got pulled and defected oh wonderful 3rd time in the last 6 months i got done for all the usuals which i can get cleared the one that has stuffed me is they got me for missing exaust mainfold bolts.now since i m upgrading to a hks gtrs in the next 6 months i planned on fixing the snapped off bolts then when i take the other turbo off, but with limited funds atm i cant afford to do that.

    i need a QUICK FIX dodgy solution which will keep them in place for when i take it to get cleared.

    any ideas ppls that wont look too dodgy? and i thought i would add that i m only literally 1 min or so away from the place i get stuff cleared at so i m not ruling out superglue at this point or a lil bit of high temp silicon but the silicon may look a bit red hot.

    any ideas would be wonderful:) :P:P:)

    Depending on how deep the bolts have snapped off,try tapping a thread into the manifold and cut some new bolts down to size and screw them in with some loctite stud lock adhesive ,this will last untill you want to change the engine.or buy one eazi out of the right size and replace them propperly they are not that exspensive.hope this helps you

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