2KR34
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Posts posted by 2KR34
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Hi guys thanks for your reply, the cars still running stock ecu. This is the only reason i havent changed the ecu as yet. This guy seemed the only guy that was willing to do an engineers cert on an imported car. Does anyone here know any engineer?? Ive gone throught the Vic Roads VASS inspectors and no go
If you know someone with a consult cable and software you can open the error page and then do a screen save from the laptop.
I'm in Qld so can't help but maybe someone local will help you out.
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My battery has died which is not surprising as it came with a puny 305CCA and was second hand as well (typical dealer install).
There are no listings for the front mounted battery (import) and the listed battery has the terminal on the wrong side which can't be used without cable changes.
I have only found the "Supercharge" brand that has a decent sized battery (450 CCA) with the thin terminals on the correct side and with dimensions that will fit but haven't found any shops that carry them so what are you guys using?
Any help appreciated. Mark.
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Yeah guys I knew as soon as I posted it that it was a waste of time but after reading a few posts such as where someone asked what was the best oil to use and getting answers like "use this brand cause it's awesome" or "don't use this brand cause it's crap" It frustrated me as these sort of questions are asked as a technical question and I just think that we as forum members should try to answer in a way that will help the person asking the question.
I know that this is a public forum and we should expect these sort of answers but that still doesn't stop me from hoping for technical answers based on knowledge.
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We are all here to get the best out of our cars and to get and hopefully share knowledge but after spending some time going through various posts It is obvious that many of the replies are total BS and based on hear-say and opinions instead of actual experience or knowledge.
Come on guys, it's great to be an active forum member but a lot of guys come here for wisdom but get no better advise that the local teen supercheap salesperson can give.
Now I'll get off my soap box and admit that I get more advise here than I could possibly give but I'd rather be of no help that to give bad advise.
Please don't confuse personal opinion for actual fact!
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Yeah nice car.
I don't know if many R34's are selling privately as I have had my 2000 GT-T sedan advertised at 16k and have had no serious interest.
Mine is stock and auto so I expect that your manual coupe will get more interest but I assume the problem is that guys can't trade or get finance with a private sale.
Checking through the classifieds most dealers prices are into the 20's for stock GT-T sedans but private sales in this range seem to linger for a looooong time.
As usual there are plenty of guys wanting these cars but few with cash.
Good luck anyway.
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Well the NGK connector is light Grey and more solid looking with all the spade pins Vertical and positioned in the center of the connector. The R34 or BOSCH connector is black, maybe a fraction smaller and all the spade pins are Horizontal and thinner and positioned in the top area of the connector.
Might take some shots if I get around to it...
I haven't read ALL the posts in this thread so don't know just how expensive the Bosch sensors are but I just wanted to get mine done so got a genuine one through Nissan, took a week and $180 bucks.
probably not the cheapest way to go but took about 10 Mins to change over. Borrowed a mechanic buddy's O2 tool and the sensor came with correct plug and even the wire clip down thingy.
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Chris posted instructions which I added some pics which may help if you haven't already done the job.
http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/He...al-t190825.html
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Having had owned a couple of Corvettes I always have a soft spot for them but converting a new or post 96 in now only possible through a RAW and the cost for a sixth gen Vette is around 40K!!!!!!!
I converted my 85 Vette myself for about 4 grand (and a stack of hours) when the workshops were charging 15 so when they brought the RAW's in I opted out of the Vette scene as I have better things to do with 40 grand.
I know there's a lot more work on the later cars but It would just make me cry to pay 40k to take a perfectly good car then have it pulled apart and butchered and in the end only to have it exactly the same way it was but with the controls on the opposite side.
Would much rather spend 40k on mods to a RHD car (if I had 40k that is)!!!
Now, wonder what improvements could be done to a new GTR for 40 grand!!!
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Both done
Thanks!!!
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My son reckons that my username sounds perverted even though it is me who does all of the work on his car so can I change it to 2KR34 or 2000R34 or R342K please!
Cheers, Mark.
Post your username change requests in this thread, and an admin will sort it out for you, provided of course that the name isn't already taken (click Members at the top of the screen to check it out).Other than the obvious change of your login and display names, this will not affect your account in any other way (eg your post count, avatar, sig, contents of existing posts etc), and you will receive an email from SAU once your name has been changed, confirming your new login details.
- Revhead
Just wondering,
Is there anyway to have my username changed? The problem being that there already is another user on SAU and just my luck in WA as well by the name "GOT BOOST". I don't want to invade on his username and would like to have my username changed if possible. It has been told to me that I should delete my username and re-register but I don't wish to lose my trader rating and history.
Does anyone here have the power to do this?
Cheers,
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Hi Guys,
I have just changed my head unit using Chris rogers how to post but have added a bit more detail and pics for those that need a more visual description.
My thanks to Chris for his help on this forum.
Hope this helps, Mark.
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R34
1 - First pull out the ashtray and undo the screw behind it.
2 - Pull up the gear stick surround and undo the 2 silver screws at the bottom left/right of the storage bin.
3 - Using a thin flat blade screwdriver on the left side, prise out the 2 vents at the top of the console and disconnect the unit.
4 - Undo the 2 silver screw at the top of the heater controls.
5 - Pull out the heater controls, radio & stage bin (all in a cage together).
6 - Remove the radio from the cage (2 screws each side) and fit your radio.
7 - Refit going from step 5 back
OK I used Chris's instructions and a couple of extra things that he told me about so here is a slightly more detailed description with pics.
1 - First pull out the ashtray and undo the screw behind it.
The ashtray just pulls out with no significant force needed. I just pulled on the open lid.
2 - Pull up the gear stick surround and undo the 2 silver screws at the bottom left/right of the storage bin.
This takes a bit more force, I pulled from the back near the handbrake and levered it up with my fingers. I also pulled off the shift knob at this time but you could probably do it with it on but I thought it would be easier with it off. There are 2 screws at the front of the knob, put the shifter right back in low to get easier access. It takes a little bit of maneuvering to get the surround over the front of the shifter indicator and be careful not to scratch the vinyl with the hard edges of the surround. Unplug the lighter, lighter surround light and steering wheel shift switch. All plugs have a release tab, push it in or you will get real cranky trying to get em off.
3 - Using a thin flat blade screwdriver on the left side, prize out the 2 vents at the top of the console and disconnect the unit.
This is the panel that houses the 2 vents and the hazard switch. I used some masking tape around the screwdriver to avoid scratching the vinyl when levering. Unplug the plug at rear.
4 - Undo the 2 silver screws at the top of the heater controls.
5 - Pull out the heater controls, radio & stage bin (all in a cage together).
I put some toweling over the lower console area to avoid scratching the vinyl.
6 - Remove the radio from the cage (2 screws each side) and fit your radio.
I undid a couple of extra screws to "open" up the cage a bit to allow the radio to be removed and the new one installed more easily and without scratching anything.
Mine had the aerial adapter already fitted as there was already an aftermarket deck installed but the previous fitter had butchered the wiring loom so it was a bit more work to re-wire all the wires in a decent manner but if you are removing the stock deck then get the correct plug adapters and aerial adapter available from Chris or some auto outlets. I also bundle any wire slack in some padded tape to avoid any rubbing or rattling later on.
7 - Refit going from step 5 back
I connected everything up and tried all deck functions before re-fitting the cage permanently just in case but luckily for me all went to plan.
Hope this helps, Mark.
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pop the ENTIRE AC vent panel out - two screws.
remove ashtray - 1 screw.
pop shift panel out unplug mode switch
two screws
pull entire assy out and unplug radio,antenna and AC controls.
email me for antenna adapter and harness plugs
without those you are wasting your time..
Thanks again Chris,
Using your original instructions together with your most recent reply I was able to do the job today.
As there was an aftermarket unit already fitted it had the antenna adapter but had the original plugs butchered but i soldered/heat shrank all of the new wires and everything works hunky dory. I also added some Sub leads and unit amp switching wire while at it to save pulling the whole thing apart down the track when/if I fit a Sub.
I took some pics and was going to add it as a response to your sticky if you don't mind as I know that thick blokes like myself find pics easier to understand.
If you were closer to my place and weren't so busy I would have just brought it to you.
Thanks again, Mark.
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Spotted a white 03 infinity badged GT premium with stock wheels and leather trim today, stopped, checked it out, got into it started it listened to it really liked it but the owner wanted over 22 grand plus my 4 door GT-T R34.
Still liked it but just couldn't justify the extra 22k on top of my very nice R34.
Pity as even the missus was real impressed with it!
Mark.
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what speakers do you have in mind - 65-70mm from memory - I do know that alpine type s fit in those. did a set about 6 months back - straight in.
Thanks for the response Chris,
I'm a bit bedazzled by the choices and was thinking of going for a decent 2 way as the extra work in installing splits was starting to worry me.
I just looked at some Alpine S type components (SPS600c) and they look good value.
How do they sound? Where did you mount the crossovers and the tweeters?
Mark.
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Hi guys,
I want to replace a cheap aftermarket head unit and have tried following Chris's sticky instructions but I need some more help please.
I have done some searches and read everything but a lot of the links don't work and I'm still none the wiser.
My car is an auto so I cant pull the shifter boot up to expose the screws and the auto shift indicator doesn't want to prise out without significant force and I don't want to break anything.
next am I prising the whole AC vent panel (the piece that has both AC vents and the hazard button) out or just the two individual vents as the individual vents don't look they would expose anything except the inside of the ducting.
All help appreciated as my new head unit is just sitting next to my puter waiting to be brought to life.
Mark.
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Hi Guys,
I am about to buy front speakers for the front doors of my 4 door R34 and wanted to save removing the door cards first so how much depth do I have and is there anything that will interfere with the speakers (window mech etc).
Thanks, Mark.
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Hi all,
Got an R32 GTST, installed some nice pioneer splits in the front (kevlar ones) a few years ago and some cheapie clarion speakers in the back and a 10" sub ported slightly incorrectly and has a very deep response. all hooked up to 4 channel kenwood amp.
Now the rear speakers are blown, i want to replace them, but on the cheap.
I'm also missing a lit of mid bass, the sub is gives deep bass ok, the splits gives mids to high trebs but seem to miss alot of the mid bass and midrange. its like most of the sound i hear is from the tweeters and the sub.
I never bothered dynamatting/or putting that rubber deflector thing flexorb on the back of the front splits)
Does this have a large effect?
Also i was looking at these for replacement rears. Just simple 6.5" "paper cone woofers" that'll hopefully recover some of the midrange i'm missing.
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?I...mp;SUBCATID=396
Anyone had any experience with these? should i even bother with these?
Also as a note i'm not going for loudness, just hopefully more quality, half the stuff i listen to is jazz and cafe style music.
I haven't heard the Jaycar speakers you noted but have just heard a set of Response 6.5" in the rear of a S15 driven only by a mid range Kenwood head unit and I was very impressed.
They are a bit dearer than the ones noted but my impression of Jaycar stuff has just gone way up.
See ling below.
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Hi Guys,
Rockford P162S; 120W 6.5" Punch Series 3 Way Component Splits
I am looking at at these splits for a door installation which are selling for around $300.
Has anyone bought or heard them and do you recommend them.
Any other suggestions for the $300 max price range.
Thanks, Mark.
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Now $6500 but still negotiable!
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Hi Guys,
I'm shopping for a split system for the front of my R34 sedan (I am presuming the interior at the front is basically the same as the 2 door) and am looking for ideas as to the best place to mount the tweeters.
I read on another post that someone was mounting theirs in the triangular plastic pieces near the side mirrors so has anyone got a similar or better suggestion?
Also where have you mounted your Subs, I am considering making a fiberglass enclosure into the drivers side quarter so as to retain as much boot space as possible.
All help much appreciated.
Mark.
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$7500 are you serious... you can pick up 2ltr turbo for that much with mods and MANUAL...
dont believe me:
1.8turbo:
http://nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=298763
2ltr turbo:
http://nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=291584
sorry mate the guys right about 5k or less..
and ive had 3 silvia s13 before so i know...
No worries that's why I posted this so I can get an idea as to what they're worth as I have had this for some time and don't really know what they are worth.
As I noted I am negotiable and will keep dropping the price until I meet the market but it doesn't really matter what I list it for as buyers always want to haggle so if I list it high then it gives the buyer more to haggle with.
It may well be the case that it is only worth 5k but the examples given don't really give me too much to compare with as those cars would be attractive to a different market than this car.
This car would not be attractive to those wanting a modified turbo manual but those cars would not be attractive to a buyer looking for a non-turbo, auto stocker!
Either way thanks for taking the time to reply to my post as all opinions help me to get a realistic perspective of it's actual worth.
Thanks, Mark.
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Battery Size For R34 Sedan
in General Maintenance
Posted
Thanks Jason,
I'll try Battery world on Tuesday as the usual shops around only have up to 305CCA in the smal terminal batteries.
Supercharge also list a bigger battery (450CCA) with the smaller terminals but I'm guessing it will be overkill and overpriced.
Cheers, Mark.