TezGT-R
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Posts posted by TezGT-R
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16 hours ago, turboedsloth said:
What controller are you going to use Terry?
I have a HTG GCU.
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After talking with some people experienced with the DCT box in race cars, they've convinced me the box will hold the power if I put a set of clutches and baskets in. So it's getting that, a new exhaust and rear turbine housing, Nexus R5 and rewire, then DCT install.
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I was going to install my DCT kit after the new 3.2 was dialled in on the 5 speed, but after it made 800hp at 4900rpm on the hub dyno before lifting the head, I'm thinking it's just going to explode the DCT. I'll be selling my whole kit soon and going built auto.
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I finished up the long block last weekend, pulled the 26 and manual box yesterday. Fab work and freshening up the engine bay starts next weekend. It'll be manual while we get the engine run in and tuned then the DCT will go in. I usually post updates on instagram.
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My new engine should be finished soon and I'll find out soon enough how well closed loop works
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14 hours ago, Gareth87 said:
The costs certainly add up.. like any mod I suppose.
I would be very interested to hear how closed loop GCU control would go. That would take out a massive element of getting things going.
The whole package is probably 2 years away from being a more common mod.
They reckon you'll just have to put in a few things like gear ratios, torque calculation stuff and some safety parameters then go driving and it'll get smoother and faster on the shifts as you go. HPR is offering complete plug and play packages now and with closed loop it should be a lot more user friendly to get it going.
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30 minutes ago, BK said:
On a GTR ?
Yes, I've got the HPR adaptor kit for a GTR
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I've spent 18k on the DCT box, adaptor gear, wiring, GCU, oil coolers etc. Once I upgrade the clutch packs and do the last few things to get it all in It'll be around $25k. So not much cheaper than a 6 speed sequential. The next firmware update for the GCU is going full closed loop, so no need to tune it after that.
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On 7/8/2022 at 7:53 PM, Kent46 said:
Just revising this one as I would like to know if there is any progress with the ZF box conversion for 32/33 GTRs that anyone knows of in Oz?
I had the ZF in my last car, an M140i, and the gearbox was fantastic and really did surprise me for a slusher.
HPR Tuning are working on the ZF conversion kit for GTRs at the moment. I have their entire DCT kit to go behind my 3.2 when it's done, it looks top quality and I bet the ZF kit will be too.
https://hpr-tuning.com/products/8hp-skyline-gtr-kit?_pos=1&_sid=6b0b74950&_ss=r
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On 4/17/2022 at 10:02 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:
So in conclusion G40-1150 twin scroll the lot, and BMW DCT swap 😎
This is exactly what I'm doing with a 3.2
Should be fun when it's finished.
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There's a few of us around, just need to go to the right place at the right time.
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I just ordered a section of this in 4" then cut it down slightly to fit https://torquelinegarage.com.au/proflow-carbon-fibre-intercooler-piping-45-degree/
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1 hour ago, EJSenpai said:
As far as the 228 psi when does the switch engage? I have a few oil pressure switches but they activate at different pressures. I have one that’s 150psi, 50, 75, and 35.
If I knew what pressure it activated the pump at a replacement could be found pretty easily but I haven't found anything on the minimum pressure
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1 hour ago, EJSenpai said:
It’s NPT. I have another switch from my air ride that I test fitted and it threads fine. The only thing that is needed to figure out is the range of the switch.
Workshop manual says 0 psi - 228 psi is needed, does air ride stuff get anywhere near that high?
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On 3/4/2019 at 6:07 PM, EJSenpai said:
BK I think I may have found a replacement switch actually I just need to do a little more research but it’s from the same company that originally supplies Nissan with Pressure sensors, switches, and solenoids. Going to check in the morning. I’m in the US so it’s 1am at the moment.
Did you end up finding a replacement switch without replacing the whole pump? I'm not keen on buying second hand parts or paying $4660AU for a whole new pump.
Thanks
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RHD japan was cheaper than nengun, got my nismo lsd for $1052 shipped.
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Natros (Nicks) car definitely has an LS.
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I'm buying it on steam when i get home, ready for release.
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My stock turbos ran 16.5psi for 8 years before one gave up, you'll be fine.
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When my 32 dropped the front turbine down the exhaust it drove fine but made absolutely no boost.
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Went to fuel up, made an odd sound when I pressed the tab inside the car to open the fuel flap. Found the white plastic nut and bit of black threaded plastic inside it sitting next to the fuel cap. Seems it has broken off the bracket in the other picture. Anyone know where I can get another of the black brackets, or even what its called so I can search a little easier myself? Not keen on taking the car anywhere with the fuel flap swinging in the breeze, since any muppet can put stuff into my fuel tank right now.
Thanks guys
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Nah not a drop, I've been keeping an eye on leaks since I had a heap of seals replaced when I got the turbos done. Garage floor is spotless.
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I hope there is oil in the box, since I paid for it to be replaced when I did the clutch. I'll have to take it around the block again and check for the noise in neutral, I can't remember 100% if it did or not.
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Drove the 32 over 600km to visit my parents and 15km from their house halfway up a mountain pass it starts making a ticking/metallic banging sound from the gearbox/clutch area. I wasn't up it at all because there are massive log trucks that come around the corners on the wrong side of the road.
The noise stops when the car does and revving it while stationary does not make the noise. While rolling if I push the clutch pedal in I can feel it through the pedal, the sound doesn't stop though. Happens in all gears and any speed. Does get faster as you go faster.
It had a brand new nismo twin plate professionally installed about 3000km ago and I've really only gone on sunday drives since then, no thrashing. Being the only thing I haven't had to fix yet the box is a bit tired, worn synchros etc, I knew it would be the next thing to give me issues, so I'm not devastated or surprised.
I'd just like to know what it is before I take it back down the mountain to the mechanic we use in case it's something horrific and I shouldn't even limp it there.
Thanks guys, Tez
DCT conversion updates
in Drivetrain and transmission
Posted
I've got an M3 shifter and Adamat RB adaptor, with a HPR transfer adaptor. Bought the full kit from HPR-tuning.