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SHOWOFFR32

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Posts posted by SHOWOFFR32

  1. 4 minutes ago, Murray_Calavera said:

    My dash was posted a few days after my email which they didn't reply to. It arrived yesterday. It's wrong and the quality is questionable. 

    Time to send them another email and hopefully they will send me the dash I paid for. Wish me luck. 

    Fingers crossed my dash was a practice one and yours is much better. 

    Wow that’s terrible news, so many people I know have told me about these mounts so you’d think they’d be okay quality by now?

    Mind posting a photo of the one you received?

  2. 6 minutes ago, Murray_Calavera said:

    Yep it's pretty annoying, they replied to my emails when I was spending money. I asked them about fitting LED lights, they got straight back to me. Now that I'm asking for an ETA... radio silence. 

    What ECU are you using? The IC7 can't be fed the fuel level signal directly. 

    I’m using the Link G4X plug in.. I’ll need a way to get the signal into the ecu.

    I had a look at the Haltech fuel signal conditioner and will most likely buy one for mine also.

  3. Aaahhh don’t tell me that!! I JUST ordered a Mako Motorsport fascia also.. ?

    I did send them an email asking if I could drill my own holes on Saturday afternoon and get a email back saying “Sure, well update your order” on the Saturday night!? I wonder why they won’t reply to you?

    Fuel level signal conditioner? I’ve never heard of that before, I’ll do some research and see if it’ll help with my install too possibly.

    Ive been made aware that the ecu gets its speed signal, some central locking stuff, rear de mister and possibly something abs related all come  from the original cluster also, so a work around for all these is most likely required.

    Someone gave me the idea to use the original circuit board (they’re pretty thin) in behind the Mako Motorsport dash piece. I’ve optioned for the recessed IC7 so they’re may not be much room left behind mine after install..

    Attached are the electrical diagrams for the gauge cluster and the central locking stuff ??

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    B43AE45C-2A0C-4228-9107-42E695070E7F.jpeg

  4. R33 S1 popped and banged mid drift, now won't start.

    G'day Guys, Been around a while and have had plenty of skylines over the years. I have 3 at the moment lol

    This is about my R33 GTST S1..

    Last Friday night I was at QR for drift practice and all was going sweet. Spent about an hour in the seat (Temps good and oil pressure good). Suddenly mid drift the car started popping and banging and started loosing power. It didn't shut off instantly but slowly lost power until it would not register any throttle input and would only idle very very roughly at about 600-700rpm.
    Soon it died and overtime I went to fire it back up it would run rough for a second or two and die.

    Since I have changed spark plugs, cleaned AFM, put in fresh fuel, changed fuel filter, checked coils for spark, checked ignitor, checked all fuses.
    It wasn't blowing any smoke and or using any coolent. No it won't fire at all.
    Its running a S1 RB25det, APEXI power fc ecu however it didn't come with a hand controller, k&n pod, bigger in tank fuel pump, hi flowed turbo, exhaust etc.

    Once I changed the fuel filter and plugs I tried cranking for 10sec or so and re pulled a spark plug, however it was bone dry and so was the cylinder.
    I am getting good fuel pressure to the fuel rail but the injectors aren't spraying for some reason.
    I removed the CAS and spun it by hand and could hear the fuel pump prime and the injectors click, however only one click per 120 degrees? Im assuming due to 2 cylinders firing at a time. So it can't be a CAS.

    I know injectors can fail, but all at once seems a bit coincidental? 

    It was running well all night until it stopped and its only been a few days since.

    Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated :)


     

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