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Jaredo

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Posts posted by Jaredo

    Trouble Shooting A/c In R33

    in General Maintenance

    Posted · Edited by Jaredo

    I managed to fix my issue of rapid (instant on off, 1-2sec on to off, and long pauses between cycles) and random cycling of the AC even when the rest system checks out (right amount of gas, oil, dual pressure switch and climate control diag is ok),

    There are a fair few mentions of the AC Thermo Amp being a possible culprit, I pulled mine apart to (they actually do come apart) to find a bulging capacitor. Replaced it and now it's back to awesome icy goodness and cycling normally.
    You can get it out without degassing.
    Your mileage may vary, this might not fix your issue, but it's worth a try if you have checked everything else.

    Capacitor size: 33uf 25V (uf = microfards), get a 105deg rated one - 45cents at JayCar.
    The temp rating of the stock part is 85deg.


    1. If you pull the glove box out, then remove the panel behind it you can access the fan motor and evap core.
    Directly in front of you, you should see a connector with 2 thick wires and a thin wire going into it (this is the FAN resistor).

    If you look upwards from that to the top of the box you should see another connector and black small black box.

    2. Remove the connector and then get a large headed flat screwdriver and pry it up from the right side towards the left-hand side of the car it should then come loose, if not stick your hand up there and pull it forward.
    I already removed it by the time I took this photo and also didn't put it back. But it shows where its located.

    post-49720-0-75737600-1411809371_thumb.jpg

    Follow the cable up to the top of the evap box, use your sense of feel to find the little plastic holders from which you just slide the cable out of, do both so you can get some length.
    Follow the cable some more and it'll go inside the box, use your fingers to remove some of the sealant if possible
    Ref this picture to see how it's laid out.
    post-49720-0-77988900-1411809952.jpg

    3. Remove spring clip and 2 screws from the front of the unit, remove two large screws below the unit, there's one near the fan motor and one to the right of the sloping drain part.
    3a. Remove the large screw to the left of where the thermo amp was.

    4. Pull the bottom half box down a little, the seam should open up, you'll notice the evap core will also want to come down also.
    Find something to keep the gap open unless you have strong hands.
    It should look like this

    post-49720-0-01150000-1411814558_thumb.jpg

    5. Locate the temp probe on the right side of the evap core, the probe is on a clip that's just pushed into the fins
    If you can get your hand in there, pull it out, else use a screwdriver try and lever it out. Careful you don't puncture the evap core
    post-49720-0-59295600-1411814284_thumb.jpg

    6. Once out, remove the clip so you can pull it out through the top.
    Gradually pull the cable trough the top of the box till it comes out.
    post-49720-0-72401700-1411814275_thumb.jpg

    7. Once you have the control amp out crack it open, you'll probably have to break the outside case where the locking tabs are (locking tabs don't depress), use a really small or thin screwdriver.
    Once that is done, slide the cover backwards a little.
    post-49720-0-81571700-1411814750_thumb.jpg

    8. Inspect the capacitor, the ends might be rounded instead of flat or it might look like it's buldging at one end and seeing as its going on 15+years it's probably at the end of it's life.
    Desolder the old one, Solder the new one in.
    Note the polarity, Negative is to the back of the board, positive at the front (there are also marks on the PCB). The capacitor will have it's negative leg clearly marked.
    post-49720-0-95951900-1411809401_thumb.jpg

    9. Test it before putting the system back together, leave the evap box open, and reconnect anything you disconnected. Leave the probe on the floor or something.
    Run the car and AC, your AC should engage and should stay engaged.

    If it worked then hurray! Put it back together.
    if not, then the issue is somewhere else or the AC control amp is dead dead.

    If you have a multimeter that can accept a temp probe (K Thermocouple) you'll be able to check what temps the AC control amp cycles between.
    Mine cycles between 9.8 and 13deg C, that's plenty cold lol.

    Ambient temp: 35.8deg C
    AC compressor off at: 9.8deg C (Air vent temp, disengages around this temp)

    AC compressor on at: 12-13deg C (Air vent temp, engages around this temp)

    I really hope this helps others with the same issue, it's been a very tricky issue to resolve.

    post-49720-0-94444200-1411816251_thumb.jpg

    • Like 1

    Electronic's In Boot - R33 Gtst

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted · Edited by Jaredo

    Hi,

    Just wondering if someone can tell me what the following electronic gizmo's do:

    The smallish one that lives under the synthetic parcel shelf near the top of the the drivers side rear suspension in a R33 GTST?

    Something to do with the fuel pump, some sort of idle and off idle speed control. I remember seeing this one when I was replacing the suspension a few years back.

    http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/137043-fuel-pump-control-module-dropping-resistor/

    The big one under the parcel shelf in the boot fitted to the under side of the steel parcel shelf drivers side R33 GTST?

    Thanks

    Mat

    HICAS ECU.

    Help! Hicas Light On, Power-steering Gone!

    in General Maintenance

    Posted · Edited by Jaredo

    14 months later and I finally got around the getting another HICAS ECU (thanks livicuru). Put it in, hooked it up - No more HICAS light, steering works beautifully! Very happy!

    Same here, got a Series 2 HICAS ECU to put in my Series 1. Works flawlessly. Yet to take it for a drive but no lights no matter how much its turned off and on again.

    Opened the Series 2 ECU to check for any leaky caps and the internals are completely different, Its now just 1 PCB instead of 2 in the Series 1. The green transistor/power regulator is now a black NEC unit. The other 2 chips on the heatsink look the same. Still 3 caps near where the green transistor/power regulator was. The two huge chips on the 2nd board in the Series 1 are now in a incredibly small package the size on your thumb. Must of been redesigned for a reason :blink: .

    Some of the capacitors on the Series 2 board look like the bottom plug is being pushed out slightly. From what I understand that means gas is building inside and eventually they will pop their vents(silver top with 3 impressions) or fail eventually.

    I'm interested in trying to mend the Series 1 ECU, its stuffed anyway but its worth a try.

    Did you end up getting a Series 1 or 2 ECU, Stitch?(livicuru was selling me one aswell)

    EDIT: You must be able to Calibrate the steering angle sensor during diagnostics. I got into diagnotic mode, got codes 22 and 23. I steered full lock left - rear wheels went opposite, then back to 'neutral' front wheels straight for 2 seconds, then full lock right for a few seconds. then back to center. Then the car starts rolling side to side a little wtf? and I notice the rear wheels literally doing a boogie. On its own it was going full right and full left(They move move quite alot more than 1 deg for sure) and my dash led was constant quick flashes indicating a normal condition(error free).

    Garage Sale - Bunch Of Random Parts

    in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)

    Posted

    Umm I might still have them, ill have a look. If not they are just normal little bolts, I actually replaced mine with stainless steel allen key ones so they wouldn't rust. Anyway I'll let you know if I have the old bolts and I'll throw them in. Ill find out postage cost and get back to you.

    Cheers.

    Its fine if you only had 1 bolt, I'll just run down to Bolt & Steel and match a set of newy's.

    Thanks.

    R33 S1 Parts Wrecking Entire Car

    in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)

    Posted · Edited by Jaredo

    Would you have the LHS glass window seal that's on the car, the window seals against it when you close the door - in good condition, no cracks ect. Sorry not sure what you call it.

    I'd like the drivers side as well if both are in good condition and the price is right.

    Cheers,

    Attached this photo so you have an idea what I'm talking about.

    post-49720-1275706154_thumb.png

    Mongoose Alarm Help

    in Car Audio & Electrical

    Posted

    I guess he's talking of the small key to turn off the siren.

    Without that key, you can't easily remove your car's battery. The siren has its own on board power and it will go right off as soon as you remove a battery terminal.

    And with the alarm within 1m of your head its frikn loud as fk lmao. Remember having to change the battery in my old car and forgot that key much fun.

    With the battery backup sirens, its quite painful doing any battery disconnecting without being able to turn off the siren.

    Yellow Fever (restoring R33 And R34 Model Headlights)

    in Tutorials / DIY / FAQ

    Posted

    just for a bit of info, autobarn now sell a kit for restoring them that contain, polish, cloth, fine sandpaper and most important that im going to have to wait for a year or so to see if it works, uv protective coating for the headlights so they dont go yellow again

    It works quite well apparently. Yet to try it on my R33 though, next on the list.. My lights aint heaps bad though just a about half the RHS light.

    Symptoms Of A Bad Alternator

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    I'd take the alternator to a auto sparky. Probably borked the regulator with the swapped post mishap. Pretty sure they can do load tests ect to find out the cause.

    I've had a flat battery and roll started the car to get it going and it ran quite rough so yeah not enough power would be causing the rough idling you seeing.

    Hicas Locked But Still Having Steering Issues

    in Suspension, braking and tyres

    Posted

    Just a supporting idea, I tried cleaning the pressure sensor plug mentioned a few posts above - though It was getting dark and probably didn't do a good job. Instant HICAS light and the next morning the same. Slowly it got worse and worse with no power steering 100% of the time now. So I'm adamant that this plug interacts with the HICAS system - defiantly cannot be a coincidence. Going to give it another go when I get some free time.

    Hicas Locked But Still Having Steering Issues

    in Suspension, braking and tyres

    Posted

    must be a pressure sensor for the p/s fluid.

    what i dont know is if that pressure reading is fed back to the hicas ecu, or somewhere, and used to determine how much power assist. ie causing heavy steering if faulty pressure reading.

    my steering has been great since i cleaned that plug out. so there may be something to it.

    It is indeed a pressure sensor for the p/s fluid. I'm pretty sure its responsible to giving the engine some revs when you start steering. From the ECU diagram it doesn't seem to appear that this signal gets fed to the HICAS ECU. Though it may say drop the "Engine RPM" signal to 0 thus reducing the p/s via the HICAS ECU.

    From the R34 manual(I assume the same as t he R33)

    Power steering oil pressure switch

    Type: ON-OFF switch

    Location: Rear of radiator lower hose

    Its apprently only "ON" when at full lock

    Interesting though.

    Help! Hicas Light On, Power-steering Gone!

    in General Maintenance

    Posted

    Has anyone found a working solution to this yet? I've been trying to figure it out for many months and have found one peice of info not mentioned here. The hicas light on after switching ignition off then on again (for me) seems more heat related. During summer it would happen 100% of the time, but now that its much colder, the car needs to be driven for longer to heat up more before I get the above mentioned hicas problem. Leaving it sit for 30-45 minutes lets the car start normally. I had a hicas scanner plugged in with the light on and no communication, no communication with light off either. Mechanics replaced Hicas and tried to scan but with no luck. Scanner still kept saying "Can not communicate" So unfortunately for me I still have no power steering after turning ignition off then on again.

    ...

    Same issue here, while it does seem heat related if you switch the ignition on and off a few times on a cool morning it'll act up. I also found while its cold and does act up it doesn't take too long before you can start the car and have working HICAS again(About 1min). I can drive from work to a servo 5mins up the road and it won't be working when I leave - You can feel the ECU starting to get some warmth into it.

    Anothing point is when the light is on, after turning the igntion off and on again the HICAS ECU puts out 2.3V(roughly) on every output, EPS(power steering module), rear rack motor and sensors. Which it technically shouldn't

    Have replaced leaking caps on the board, completely re-capped the steering angle sensor. None of which really helped at all haha.

    There's quite a few people around here that have the same intermittent problem.... so there must be a common solution, well that's my reasoning haha.

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