Craved
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Posts posted by Craved
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clean your AAC and IAC valves, then reset the idle via the idle adjustment screw
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yeah, you can see the holes in the black post in the picture.. one has the silver locking bar in it for max height. at the base of the arms.
just a 20mm rod of steel through holes, other position is half height
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that picture is from http://www.engineeredtoslide.com
he uses double spacers under the lift pads to get extra height, so would need to jack it up first
my cars all go on fine, but my 33 is 100mm legal height
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1 minute ago, ActionDan said:
A mate has one and rates it highly.
He's short though lolim short too lol
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use to be sold by levanta in QLD but cant seem to find it on their site..
that Happ one you posted Dan seems a bit better as the max jax only has 2 locking locations
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ive got a maxjax like below - full height with the bonnet up on the 33 is 2400
cant walk under it, but a stool with wheels is easy enough, 240v and uses threaded anchors not dynabolts to make it portable to some degree. atleast pack it away when not in use
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if the original wiring to the pump is used as the trigger, which is in the boot, then all one needs is the new 12V direct feed to the relay then the pump.
Changing to a fused relay, the pump is fused nice and close to the end application - and can double as a kill switch without opening the bonnet
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where are you located?
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Topic moved to Forced Induction Forum
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that pipe is an external oil drain from the head, due to the additional oil from the VCT system on the 25. you'll need to find a way to keep that, or T it into the oil drain from the turbo
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another couple of steps....
test fit of the new dump pipe worked perfectly, so rather than remove it to finish the welding i thought i'd dummy up all the lines for the turbo.
New hard line is run around the front of the motor and will connect to some new -8 fittings in the turbo and hardlines with tube nuts.
Old drain still works, just needs to be shortened slightly and the old oil line fittings in the block worked great. just need another metre of the -4 teflon braid to move the turbos oil filter up into a serviceable area.
getting all this sorted out, means i can head straight to ceramic coating everything the next time it is removed and the dump pipe is sealed up with the TIG.
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Ended up flat chat last week, so it got delayed again.
New dump is almost completed, just need a long die grinder bit to clean up the inside of the merge a little, then i can weld the rest of the wastegate dump up. Still unsure whether i'll need to run another vband on the WG dump to assist with install, got one on order but ill test fit it without and see how much of a struggle it will be.
Also removed the turbo's water return from around the back of the head, going in favour of a solid line running around the front of the head ready for the 26/30 install. Removed the water feed from the plenum/fuel rail completely and blocked it off behind the thermostat.
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thanks Duncan, shop was a huge undertaking and a big step up - 7m long oven ready for doing full chassis etc
ETA? haha that depends on how busy i get, hoping to have the new dump pipe finished off this week, that could get her back on the street if i just leave it at that.
but that never happens, besides, once shes up on the hoist i keep finding new things to do/fix/improve upon
- having a hoist is both blessing and curse -
next job to complete at this point is the radiator shroud for a thermo fan, this one is incorporating a cross over pipe within it for a legal spec catch can arrangement on the drivers guard that will feed back to the air intake without running a long ugly hose across the engine bay.
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got some time to perfect the surge tank design, my original fabricated one was around 4.5L and overkill.
new one is 2L and alot tighter to the car and will weigh less and is easier to replicate if anybody would want one.
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Then in prep of getting my 26/30 finished one day i figured ill spend on a known commodity of a 6boost manifold - designed for the 26/30 but with a 25/26 flange pattern so i can get it installed on the RB25 and only have limited changes to make when the motor is built and swapped over.
upgraded from the tial 38mm wastegate to the turbosmart 50mm item, the old setup had the gate hanging right down at the chassis rail via some adapters etc, never caused any issues but wasnt as neat as id like
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its been pretty crazy after moving into my new shop and expanding the services i provide into the domestic and commercial/industrial market.
but now i've had some time to get working on my own things again.
newly coated bronze 350z rims with some federal 595's for street duties
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how much for the "Sparco NS2 Python" if you were to stop the refurbing process?
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i dont recommend running in that location. incase it blows oil on a glowing turbo
thats a very good point
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Been watching your build, its an interesting combo.
havent seen any CAD files out there for the sumps, but im sure that some of the FAB guys already have it, so they might chime in and sell you the plate already cut instead.
Brad from PRO FAB or Ariel from CPC might have them if you try to contact them directly before you start drawing.
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hahah im getting old, but you'd be suprised how much you can still notice a plumb back gate.. and you dont get reamed for it lol
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Might have to plumb back gate until in the event
do this anyway
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hare and forbes - 25kg bags 60-80 garnet
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nothing new, i havent had time to drive it since i got it home, jsut in and out of shed a few times lol
time for fresh fuel, new fuel surge tank, amp mount and some street tyres on another set of 350z rims i bought.
- having a hoist is both blessing and curse 
WANTED - Lobster Back Pipe Fabricator
in Fabrication
Posted
lobster is very time consuming, you could get an alloy donut with a tight radius - such as http://www.jntperformance.com.au/index_g3.html?itemId=13665772&catId=395407
and have someone modify yours or start again. clearance wise im sure most would prefer to have the car to work with.