MaximuSmurf
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Posts posted by MaximuSmurf
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Time to let the S15 go now after 8 years of ownership. Somewhat negotiable depending on ease of sale and additional parts wanted. I hope the below will convey my efforts for quality and doing things the 'right' way.
$24,000 onoI've spent an awful lot of time researching and money spent to try and build one of the most versatile and responsive street cars. Probably most responsive, driveable, and usable 338rwkw you can make. Excellent static response from the medium sized Borg Warner, twin scroll manifold, smaller cams which retain VCT for great low-mid RPM power and torque. Plus the fantastic transient (off/on boost) response from the EFR series turbos. Combined makes ~260rwkw by 4000rpm
Safety measures always used including having a turbo speed sensor to ensure it's never pushed past it's manufacturer recommended maximum (sitting at around 90% at the moment)
Have a massive stack of invoices for all work and parts done to the car over the years.
Forged engine (258 poncams + VCT)
- JE Forged Pistons
- Scat Forged Conrods
- ACL Race Bearings
- ARP Main Studs
- ARP Head Studs
- Nitto Head Gasket
- 'Performance' Valve Springs
- Tomei 258 Poncams
- New VCT Gear (<3,000kms old)
- Springy Motors specially designed rocker arm protection guard to prevent damage to engine rockers (much improved over other designs)
- All professionally machined and installedFull-race T4 Twin Scroll High mount manifold (with 2000c thermal coating)
- External wastegate model with the ports clamped shut should you want ot go to EWG in future
Borg Warner EFR7163 Turbo T4 Twin Scroll 0.80 rear (custom braided lines)
- Upgrade Turbosmart EFR series BOV Borg Warner Turbo speed sensor wired into Link G4+ ECU
Link G4+ ECU
- Canbus Wideband
- Ethanol sensor to ECU for Flex fuel
Mazworx topfeed fuel rail (custom braided lines)
Bosch 1650cc injectors
Turbosmart FPR800 Fuel pressure regulator
Inline 100micron fuel filter
- much easier to access and replace compared to stock, also washable and re-usable
Walbro 460LP/h Fuel Pump
- direct wired to battery with safety relay in place
Havoc Fabrications front mount intercooler piping and
- Aeroflow core (not through battery tray)
Havoc Fabrications custom turbo intake with pod filter
- Enclosed in a box for neatness, legality and lower intake temperatures
Havoc Fabrications custom 3" Turbo back exhaust
- vband at turbo, high flow catalytic converter and high quality magnaflow muffler
- Tucks up nice and high under the body for great clearance
RB25 gearbox with Z32 bellhousing (Engineered to Slide conversion)
NPC Heavy Duty Organic Clutch
GKtech braided clutch lines
Hardrace hardened rubber Engine and Gearbox mounts
Whiteline swaybars front and rear
Shockworks coilovers
SPL Camber arms
Nismo GT Pro 1.5 Way LSD
Enkei RPF1 wheels 17x9 +22 wheels
- 255/40/17 Federal RS-RR on the front
- Brand new 255/40/17 Hankook RS4's on the rear
Full vertex bodykit kit
JDM bits
- Steering wheel
- Seats
- Electric fold in mirrors
- Silvia badging inside and out
Custome Blue EL backlit dash
Pioneer BT headunit with handsfree
Custom neat 10" sub box with amp
- Mounted in the boot in the S15 'shelf'
- Quick release plugs, for fast removal / install (~2mins)
Owned it for 8 years (since it was a simple 190rwkw with stock turbo) 265,000kms on chassis (120,00kms on it when I got the car), about 7,000kms on engine. It's my daily driver and is always treated with care. Always warmed up correctly before driven. Fresh full synth oil every 3,000-5,000kms. Last pic shows has perfect front height and car fits perfectly over any 'standard height' gutters. Only accident (to my knowledge) was cosmetic panel dent years ago while I owned it.
No RWC included.
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1 minute ago, sneakey pete said:
For those with no soldering iron experience this should do the trick
Though its an analogue input not a digital one so plan accordingly
Yeah did see and look into those, wasn't 100% of connections etc, plus mate had a spare Arduino board so was 'easier'.
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2 minutes ago, iruvyouskyrine said:
If i was you i would go to a DBW throttle now you have a good ECU running the show. How are you interfacing turbo RPM into the link? I though plug ins had a 500hz input limit
Yeah, I'm thinking that. EFI Solutions has a 68mm Bosch Electronic Throttle body I'm looking at. Link has an e-throttle module too so SEEEEEMS pretty straight forward. But it's been a fairly rough 18 months for the old S15, lots of issues and breakage, MORE than enough power for now so that's super low on the priority's.
You are corrected. Mate made a little Arduino board to convert the signal down to a usable hz rating.
0 - 100hz = 0rpm
100 - 500hz = 200,000rpm (50,000rpm every 100hz)
And I've got that hz number logged in the Link ECU logging history now so can see it over time / rpm / etc. Bit of mucking around (mostly from my mate, Thanks Matt
) but certainly nicer than the ~$300+ converters and gauges. This way the Link reads it so I can also do things like safety cut or alerts against the values ie >400hz = a bad time
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12 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:
That is f**king smashing! That has to be the street turbo of choice.
Yeah pretty stoked with the result. 260rwkw at 4000rpm with EFR transient is a freaking hoot to drive. It's my daily, so nice around town and through traffic etc.
Turbo RPM implies there's a little more on the table up to, I'm thinking larger Throttle Body, but it's a bit of a handful already so I'll be prioritising some upgrades for more stable rear end grip first. -
19 minutes ago, VFRegal said:
Congrats!!, a mate just sent me the facebook link.
Have you go the boost controlled by the Link ? Did you need many turns of preload ? Did you end up running it with the 4 port or 3 port mac valve setup with the dual port.
Cheers,
It's still using a 3 port solenoid (link one). Preload is about 10mm (didn't count turns). Not even running the dueal port WG as a dual port setup at the moment. Single was working fine. Once the link was controlling boost, converted to MAP, changed cams to new 258's (don't think cams helped anything), and upgraded to the Turbosmart BOV it seemed to hold boost alot better.
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Finally got a few fixes put in place, had to do a little extra work the last few months as the poor little SR20 kept snapping rockers. For now she's on 336rwkw and 615nm Torque, turbo is sitting on about 138,000rpm at it's peak. All holding up well at the moment.Since the last boost holding issues I've changed the following;
- Added Link NS15+ ECU (MAP sensor now)
- Turbosmart BOV (recirc)
- Tomei USA new 258 cams
- Brand new VCT (old one was rattling)
This is EFR7163 T4 0.80 rear and is still internal gate (with a Turbosmart Dual Port 24psi actuator). T4 TS high mount on a Full-race manifold.
Picked up a little more through the mid of late, nice torque figures. It's a little bit of a handful to drive as it comes on so viciously but I'm slowly getting used to feathering throttle on a bit more and have some more rear bush and suspension work to do which will hopefully give some more read end grip.
Still running the stock S15 throttle body, which may be restricting some flow up top, might try the slightly larger SR20 NA throttle body (or S14 one) down the track.-
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3 minutes ago, VFRegal said:
That's awesome ! Glad to hear you got some good results. I might have to follow your lead to get mine sorted.
Did you end up using the 4 port mac valve ? I assume you had 24psi spring combo in the actuator ?Cheers,
No just a 3 port. Most people I've heard say not much advantage to 4port. And yeah it's the 24psi spring that comes in it, they have different psi versions you can buy.
By all accounts you'd have a much cleaner more stake and better result with ewg
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1 minute ago, Lithium said:
I had guessed that the power rolling over may have been partly necessity to avoid leaning out with the fuel pump starting to max out?
I'm not sure. Unfortunately I wasn't there when the tuner was finishing up so I didn't get a huge amount of details about some of those little niggles. Will go back for a touch up with the new bigger fuel pump in and see if that helps smooth anything out.
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1 minute ago, Lithium said:
That's a really nice result! Still having boost control issues, though? The turbo should have more flow in it, which is a shame - but that is a massive delivery for an SR20! How does it drive?
Thanks.
And not 'really'. Line is a little wavy but pretty flat holding ~25psi the whole time now. Internal gate is always a little tougher to manage but I'm trying to squeeze the best result out I can before going external gate. Just because $$$ and legality here in Vic (not sure who I'm kidding about legality after going high mount).
Drives really really well. It's my daily driver so just putting around town and the streets is great. Beautiful torque and pull down low. You REALLY use that BW transient as you can come off/on throttle and it's quite effortless to get moving again. It does break traction in the dry in a straight line in 3rd now... soooo.... I'll do new subframe/diff bushes and some rear suspension arms in the hope of providing a little more rear grip, if that doesn't work I might run a little less boost just to make it a little less of a handful.
Not tooooo sure why I'm getting such a huge power drop after 6000rpm, maybe the cams are just too small. But to be honest I'm not that fussed, just want to be driving the car now. Will probs drop the RPM limit a bit for safety to prevent me snapping anymore rockers and see how she goes.
Ideally I'll start putting some $$$ away to chuck a P12 head on in future which will fix me having to replace VCT gears and hopefully stop the cam bottleneck (if that's what it is). -
2 hours ago, R_34 said:
Awesome result !
A friend is thinking about stepping up on his SR. Can you give me some details about your setup or point me to your topic where you present your setup.
Sure:
- Forged engine, pistons, rings, rods. Head studs, main studs, nitto HG, stronger valve springs, RAS.
- Full-race T4 TS Manifold (ewg but with the ewg ports blocked off with vband plates so I can use in future if I want)
- BW EFR7163 0.80 TS. TS Bov. TS Dual port 24psi actuator
- Bosch 1650cc injectors in top feel rail. All braided lines, aftermarket fuel filter.
- Havoc straight intake and 2.5" custom intercooler piping with new Aeroflow core
- 3" vband dump to cat, resonator, muffler (3" all the way)
- Link G4+ S15 plugin ECU
- Walbro 416lph fuel pump direct wired to battery
That's about it for the turbo / engine / power setup.
I really love the result but alot of me would be hard pressed to recommend it given the cost and issues I've faced. When something like a new GTX2867R Gen2 will perform 90% as well in basically bolt on configuration with stock manifold etc..... certainly way less headaches.-
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While there's some sr20 chat. I got mine re dynoed last week. Changes / upgrades and attempts to fix boost drop were:
Link g4+ ecu (controlling boost now)
New boost solenoid
map sensor instead of hpx afm
New iat sensor
Canbus wideband controller
New vct gear (old one was rattly)
new tomei 258 Poncam (maybe more ex flow)
Was pretty much better everywhere. More response. More power on less boost. Pretty fantastic result. My gen1 Walbro 416 fuel pump was maxing out so will probs change to the new 525 one and retune to smoothen things out.
Car also lasted about an hour before the original (260,000kms old) rocker arms snapped (two of them) so getting new ones out in and dual shim setup on them done this week to get her back on the road.
338rwkw and a really meaty midrange of about 260rwkw at 4k. Full boost at about 3800rpm.
Green is the final result. The 'shit' red one is the last 307rwkw with more boost in the mid but less power overall especially as tapering off.
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1 hour ago, iruvyouskyrine said:
Do yourself a favour and don't use sparesbox.
I waited 10 months for mine to arrive and it was always coming 'next week'. Even getting my money back was a pain.
7 hours ago, burn4005 said:Sparesbox have 20% off on eBay all the time but I'm not sure they actually can get their hands on them/have stock
Also sparesbox are pretty darn expensive, and seem to just jack up all their prices whenever they have a 'sale'.
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7 minutes ago, sneakey pete said:
450KW with a 7670 is not realistically what most people are going to get, 400kw would be about more normal i'd have thought?
either way its the same sized compressor wheel as a 3076 but with a slightly bigger rear? either way your going to be able to cause as much damage to the engine with either if not tuned rightAgreed. I've seen a couple on SR20DET's and SR20VET's and they're running 360-390rwkw. Mostly to err massively on the side of safety and longevity.
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7 minutes ago, ActionDan said:
Maybe too big for me then I was looking at Gen2 GTX3076 or so.
Maybe it was the 7163 I was looking at.
I would highly recommend AGAINST the 7163 for your track use. IMHO the rear exits are too small for TS use. I would think a 7670 and 1.05 (MAYBE even the smaller 0.92) would be perfect. The 7163 only come in 0.80 rear in TS form which I believe (no expert) chokes too much, especially under higher RPM.
FYI I'm running an EFR7163 on T4 TS SR20DET. I will be pushing it HARD to get maximum response and power for street / light track duties. But the small lag hit I think you'd be wanting the extra ~80-100rwkw and freer flowing turbo setup. -
It's interesting to see how everyone perceives lag so differently. Maybe it's because AWD and RB26 land with more rpm. But Kinstaah's result is fckin amazing in my book. 394rwkw at 18psi. Surely capable of ~440rwkw+ if you wanted to lean on the turbo a little more. IMHO that's more than enough power (especially in RWD).
Can't recall if he popped the dyno sheets up but I'm pretty sure it's making just over 300rwkw at 4000rpm. It is comparable (but next level) to the response and pickup I get with the 7163 on my SR20 (250rwkw at 4000rpm). Makes for an amazing road car, spools very early and really picks up and goes without having to wind up the rpm much at all. I can't fathom possibly being happy with a turbo that doesn't make full boost until 5000rpm or later.
On something a little more 'standard' like a Neo RB25 I'm sure the 7670 would be an absolutely fantastic option. Awesome driveability with IMHO more than enough power.
Again just my opinion. And maybe it's different in 4wd land, but I don't see how you can USE more than 400rwkw on the road, especially taking into account the pressure you're putting on your engine, gearbox and inevitably very heavy duty clutch.
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1 minute ago, Blue said:
Without digging too deep the 7064 can be had with a T3 flange, I would just need to dig in to maps to see how it compares with the potato. All this is a little by the by anyway as I doubt the money will be there to throw a new snail at it this year, but you never know. I can see up to about $5K between it and back on track as it is so it is not really very likely to be changed this year, but I tend to plan these tings a long way ahead.
The RS is snappy enough on it that I gave up on closed loop control with the previous ECU (Old E11 Haltech) as it was impossible to dial out big boost spikes at high RPM. The new ECU just about has more tables for closed loop than the E11 did for everything it had.
3Ah yep, I tend to forget about the 7064 for some reason. TBH wish I'd gone that direction at times to lose a little response for a better flowing rear (comes in 0.92 in T4 TS, instead of the 0.80 the 7163 comes in).
Again, hard to compare when I'm not sure just 'how' responsive your current setup is. What's the curve look like? When are you hitting max boost or torque? -
Also Blue, the devil's advocate in me wants to also maybe suggest one of the new G25-550 Garret turbos. They come in a T25 with 0.49" rear which by the looks of their specs would get you a very responsive ~250rwkw on 98.
I'm certainly keeping a close eye out for results on the new Garret series.(But I promise I still love my EFR guys, don't hate me)
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Hey Blue,
I've got an EFR7163 on an SR20DET, so not too dissimilar setup. I am running e85, and have had a couple of issues with back pressure with a T4 TS mani and internal gate.
I can certainly attest to the response with a 'big' 7163 on a 2 litre. I'm running 307rwkw currently and making 250rwkw at 4000rpm. I have VCT, fairly small cams and as I said e85 so all that will help a little with response.
There's no T3 options in the EFR range (that I've seen). So you're on t25, vband or T4. I would think a 7163 in vband (the largest rear, which is a good thing for these) and external gate would be the way to go. Hard to say without knowing exactly how responsive your current turbo is. I would think 98 and ext gate would net you near 280rwkw and only lose a 'little' in response (compared to mine). FYI I'm not super familiar with RB20 setups.
For anyone else who had any interest in my setup / results I have some weirdness with my Nistune ECU and the HPX AFM. VCT is also rattling a little and getting tired. And can't really hold boost with internal gate. I'll probably switch to Haltech ECU for boost control, MAP sensor, OBD gauges, engine protection based on turbo speed rpm and a few other things. Hopefully that'll iron out some of the current bugs. Otherwise I'll just say f**k it and grab 2 x 38mm gates and go external setup which SHOULD get around the boost holding issue.
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10 hours ago, BakemonoRicer said:
yup, do it once do it right
heck im just a goon SR20 owner and even ive bit the bullet n gone twin gate.....
the tial mv-s 38millers are nice lil compact units....
my 6boost egt equipped mani rocks up this week......should have the 7670 on and sorted in the next couple weeks.
Very curious to see how your sr20 goes. Det or ve? I've got a 7163 t4 Ts internal gate on full race Mani on my sr20det. So keen to see what your response is like going to a 7670.
What do you use the car for? Assuming you'll be getting around 380rwkw on that setup.
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3 minutes ago, mtnickel said:
Followup question:
Everyone is pushing for bare minimum of a 7163. Now what sort of boost/power level would be the consensus to run on a completely stock S2 RB25. Stock cams, stock exhaust manifold, Greddy intake. External gate. full 3" exhaust off turbo, no cat, straight through mufflers.
I'm pretty confident that 6758 could make a solid 260kw on the above with between 16-18psi. All while not over-reving. Peak power may be closer to high 5's than mid 6's. But should make for a FAT power band.
Now, the 7163 with the .80 housing will spool slower but has more potential, but what do I stand to gain on the above setup with a mainly stock build. How high can we push the boost on it while maintaining a fairly reliable setup.
I've found a reasonable deal on a 7163 with the same Indy car housings. They actually made them to swap right out for the 6758 on the indy cars when they changed the turbo spec. Maybe I need to get both and swap either one in. Would probably only take an hour or 2 for full turbo swap with all the v-bands I have.
Well I have an EFR 7163 with 0.80 rear housing (T4 TS) on a little SR20. I'm hitting 29psi by 3800rpm. 320rwkw peak, and 250rwkw by 4000rpm. Certainly fantastic response. That's on e85 too. I imagine it would be insane on an RB25, might balance out if you're planning 98 fuel and stock mani as you'll lose response on both counts.
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Just grabbed these off the GCG website.
EFR 6258 - 166,300 RPM
EFR 6758 - 153,900 RPM
EFR 7163 - 150,600 RPM
EFR 7670 - 139,200 RPM
EFR 8374 - 127,000 RPM
EFR 9174 - 125,000 RPM (taken from Full-Race website)
EFR 9180 - 116,000 RPM
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4 hours ago, Lithium said:
This is kind of a good point which I've been meaning to ask @Full-Race Geoff... or anyone who has found anything, I've never seen any official Borg Warner documentation on the maximum recommended turbine speed for any of their EFR range - same goes the Garrett range?!
They both have the rpm lines on compressor maps, but there is nothing stated to indicate that any of those imply a maximum rpm - which from all I can tell is treated like a single magic number. Is there any information available we can refer to? There has been much noise made about how risky it is to go past the max rpm of any of these turbochargers but without that max rpm I feel awkward sometimes bringing it up without any supplied information. One of the justifications given for the EFR9174 existing is that it allows for more rpm safely, which implies that the compressor wants to spin faster than the turbine can happily spin at - but that is a number which we are not given... obviously going off the compressor map will result in rpm skyrocketing to try and move any more air as compressor efficiency plummets but surely the intention of the 9174 isn't to encourage running the compressor into uncharted territory?
Clarification would be awesome
I've got the EFR speed sensor on my S15 (SR20DET). Hits 29psi and tapers to ~23psi. This peaks up at ~140,000rpm (can't remember exact figure). Max turbine speed for each EFR turbo is well documented, pretty sure it's in the manual. My 7163 is 'rated' to 150,600 rpm. Full-Race website lists that the EFR 9174 turbine RPM 'max' is 125,000rpm.
I bought the sensor so I could push the turbo to it's top end limit on my engine and still feel a little 'safe' in that it was still within manufacturers specs.
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Yeah I'm curious too. I have a genuine efr one to go on my 7163 and it's freakin huuuuuuge. Same beanie they fit on the 9180. One size fits.... MostIs that the 'inconel' brand beanie? Did i already ask this or was it a diferent one? [emoji14]
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A mate bought it through them. He was in the same boat. Ended up selling his brand new turbo and buying that package deal from them as it saved him so much on the manifold.Too late now as I already bought a turbo, so this was just over the phone pricing?
) but certainly nicer than the ~$300+ converters and gauges. This way the Link reads it so I can also do things like safety cut or alerts against the values ie >400hz = a bad time
2.jpg.d9a665f3dab7d76078dab8e0dbb36814.jpg)
2.jpg.320d2f25e8b860a4b110da79265ddc6a.jpg)
Borg Warner EFR Series Turbo's V 2.0
in Forced Induction Performance
Posted
Closed/ Secret FB group, I assume it's a GTR for sale. And I didn't think cross posting to for sale ads was allowed?