Freddie
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Posts posted by Freddie
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hey all quick update.
Price drop down to $16 990 as I want it gone. I am only after cash no swaps sorry.
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Hey all
For sale: Toyota Hilux, 2001, lN167 ( I think)
Location: Adelaide, SA
Asking Price: $19, 990 O.N.O.
Killometer's: 178 409
Manual or Automatic transmission: Manual with 4X4 Transfer box
Engine Type: 3 litre Diesel 4 cylinder
Condition: Slight rust in tail gate, broken reflector and slight damage behind it.
Modifications: sunraysia rims, bulbar, CD player, tray lining, tray cover
Complianced/Engineered: If imported.
Registration: Fresh 3 months with sale
Crash History: none
Contact: Tyrone 0430107682
Up for sale today is my Toyota hilux.
It is a 2001 model, 4 cylinder 3ltr diesel. Its manual with a 4X4 transfer case which enables the driver to change from 2WD High, 4WD High and 4WD low. It has near new tyres on the front and about 50% tread on the rear. It has a snorkel, tray lining, tray cover, bulbar, towbar and CD player. This is a great ute and I am regretting this sale but I need something more practical. The hilux has AC but the AC compressor belt needs to be put on. The damage on the rear reflector and tailgate I have been quoted $300 to fix the lot at my local panelbeaters. The rims that it has are the sunraysia rims.
I am after $19990 O.N.O. please contact me on 0430107682 anytime
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Hey all
Just so you all know I sold this car today to this person. He paid $6200 which is totally not worth it. This car is thrashed so bad.
here is the list of things that is wrong with it...
- Gearbox is nearly gone, Redline gear oil and saw dust does wonders to wining and grinding gearboxes lol
- Head is f**ked, valves need grinding and the hole head needs to be rebuilt.
- Turbo is on its way out, Im surprised that it even made it to the city and back
- power steering rack is dry and probably damaged by now
- All four coilovers need rebuilding. Just because there a good brand dosn't mean they don't wear out
- LSD is open Wheeling continously
- Radiator is broken and leaking
- Power steering pump is going
- clutch pedal is dodgly bolted in and after a few clutch kicks will fall apart
- CD player dosn't work
- Gear knob is being held on by blu tacK
- Rear wheel studs will not be able to be screwed back onto the threads as they are so badly damaged
- The brake lights don't work as the brake switch is missing
- The accelerator pedal gets jammed continuously
- The passenger seat adjustment is broken
- The car will not remain clean for longer then a day,
- AC dosn't work due to the servo being broken
- The front mount is MONZA not blitz
- The pod filter is crap no name brand
- Boost gauge dosn't light up nore read boost
There are many more things wrong with the car these aren't even half. Sorry Bo u
There is always goods and bads about a car and unfortunately this car has many bads, fortunally I hope that I have scared away and potentional buyers. This car is worth $5 as it needs ALOT of work. Dont waste your money guys and gals theres much better out there and I only paid $500 for the whole car and that was about 20 tyres ago and about 1000 drifts ago.
Cheers Bo u for deceiving me and being a lying rat.
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Up for sale is my R32 skyline, I have only recently completed a clutch change and an overall maintenance check/service. It is currently not regod but rego can be arranged if buyer is serious. It has tape over the spoiler holes. I didn’t mind it so I left it as is.
Specs
Car
2 Door coupe
Black
Comes with spoiler
Is in good condition for its age, has scratch in drivers door, kind of noticeable but could polish out most of it.
Comes with CD player and front speakers
Engine
RB20DET
Turbo
Front Mount Intercooler
Front mount intercooler piping
Sports exhaust, has cat, rear pipe is straight, perfect note.
Brand new Battery
Brand new master cylinder, flushed clutch line
Flushed the coolant and replaced
Boost gauge
Drivetrain
5 Speed
Brand new HD Exedy Button Clutch
Redline Gearbox oil Brand new, Best oil on the market comes with the left over oil
LSD
Suspension
Cusco Zero 1 Coilovers also have stock suspension to come with car
Adjustable rear camber arms
Wheels and Brakes
Enkei 17 inch mags (set)
1 pair of ford territory wheels (on car)
Have just replace front brake pads
Has had all 10 front studs replaced about 6 months ago
I am not interested in swaps for anything except a Toyota Hilux. Otherwise I am asking $7500. I am located in Greenacres, Adelaide, SA.
You can contact me on 0430107682 anytime
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Slightlynot overly noticeable, its only the bracket that rests against the fire that is bent. Im thinking maybe I need a new clutch pedal box? so that the clutch sits level with the brake pedal? Any suggestions?
Cheers for your help guys
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I have attempted to do this with no success twice. The clutch pedal sits still too low with the bolt removed. The nut type thing on the master cylinder is already adjusted quite long and has made very little to no difference.
I Will keep trying once the weather drys up a bit. Thanks for your input DVS 32R.
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Hey all
I have recently put a new HD button clutch in my skyline r32 gtst. The process was simple enough and everything seemed to go together pretty easily. I replaced the gearbox snout as the old one had broken off.
Then all the trouble started once I started bleeding the clutch system. I am only using the master cylinder nipple as the other two bleed nipples are at lower points and only clutch fluid is cumming out no air. So I am continually bleed from the master cylinder nipple. Its pretty simple and as Im bleeding I can see the slave progressively moving more and more. The only problem that I can visible see as I bleed is that the master cylinder moves upwards and the clutch pedal is pumped. I have now gotten to the point where I am no longer seeing any improvement in the slave cylinder's travel.
The problem is that the clutch isn't able to fully disengage. I have tried adjusting the u thingo on the ending of the master cylinder but still no improvement. I have noticed that the clutch pedal sits about 1 half the distance that the brake pedal sits. I have taken the clutch pedal box out and have inspected it. The mounting bolts seem to be slightly bent.
My question is what should I do to try and extend the travel of the slave cylinder to get the clutch to fully disengage? Should I put spacers between the clutch pedal and firewall to try and sit the clutch right? Is it the slave cylinder?
I am totally lost and any help would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers Tyrone
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Absolutely love this car. Wish mine was as clean
Will be following this thread with anticipation
Good luck -
Yeah im just going to get a new one from nissan cheers Guys and gals
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is it better to get it brand new? or would I be able to get away with getting a second hand one?
cheers Tyrone
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Hey all
I was wondering if anyone knows what this part is called as I need to replace mine. It is circled in this picture. If anyone on here has a spare one for a rb20det can you please let me know. Cheers Tyrone
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Hey all just thought I would let everyone know.
Turned out to be that the inter cooler pipping wasn't on properly and that once I connected it up properly ran much better.
cheers everyone who helped.
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anyone?
Hey mate if you look in the phone book, its a place called cooks trailer hire. I hired a car trailer for $55. very cheap and should get you outta trouble. Almost as cheap as a carton too. GL
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Yes i am on my P's lol
Nah he pulled me over for not having rear P plate visable, asked me to show him license and i could produce it,because I didn't have it. Apprently you can lose your P's if you don't have it. My horn didn't work , he was gonna defect me, and fine me for p plate and license but I talked him down to just the failure to carry provisional license.
I rang the expiation notice branch to see if I would lose my license but according to the guy if I had also been fined for breach of P's I would have lost it.
Still haven't been defect in the skyline yet YAY! Probably because I haven't driven it since that AFM broke.
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Just been reading through several pages of this sa defect topic. Being defected myself, fully deserving the defects as ALL defects were fair....sorta. I have only been pulled over once in my skyline, had my bonnet popped, stock, boost controller, not connected, couldn't find my license, fined. lol
Anyway just wondering if anyone has ever sued a cop because they had targeted the driver? IE the Scottish cop who targets skylines etc? Does any one reackon that they would have a chance suing a cop for targeting or discriminating a certain driver? ie p plater, skyline driver etc?
cheers Tyrone
Also SAPOLs new motto "to protect and defect!"
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What did the previous owner say? Does he/she know?
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Just soldered the wires together and they are making a good connection. Could the turbo be blown as it is not revving past 4000 rpm? and it is still stalling. sounds like it may be misfiring even.
cheers
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Got a new AFM and it seems a little better but still has the same problem.
Did another ECU scan came up will fault code 12, which is the MAF sensor circuit. Could it be the wires connecting the plug to the afm as all for wires are only twisted together.
Also the engine will keep stalling and it won't rev past 4000 rpm.
Any suggestions? Any help will be really helpful.
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it was broken before the I purchased the car.
Yes all wires are correct
and yeah r32 or r33 series 1 afm PLEASE! lol
cheers Tyrone
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did a ecu scan and it came up with number 12 pretty sure thats afm so Im guessing i need a new AFM. Does anyone have a stock rb20 1 in adelaide that they wanna give me?
cheers Tyrone
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Hey all
So basically i am new to the forum as I am new to skylines. I have recently bought a r32 skyline and need help as it has an afm problem due to one of the wires that goes into the plug has been snapped off just after the plug.
I took the plug off by cutting the plug and they got my dad to fix the plug for me. no dramas. One i had the plug fixed and ready to operate I just connected the wires dodgy to get it working to make sure everything was ok.
I reset the ecu by disconnecting the battery and then holding down the brake.
Once i reset the ecu I started the car and it would not idle. I had to hold the throttle fully open to JUST get it to idle and then once I let go of the throttle it stalls. I then disconnected the afm and start the car and it idled at about 1250 rpm. It idled rough but still better then when the AFM was connected.
Does anyone have any idea what the problem is? Anyone ever had this problem before?
Any help would be greatly appreciated. cheers Tyrone
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Looks good, can wait to see future progress. I love 31s and with the right owner and style in mind any 31 can be turned into a wicked car!!!
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great info guys..
Yeah this plan is ATLEAST a year or even two years down the road. I am planning to build motor while still driving stock rb20 around. Budget isnt an issue as The build can take as long as it needs. My rb20det seems really powerless to drift and hence why I started looking into a better motor.
I have BASIC drifting skills. I emphasis basic but still I am planning to learn on this stock motor then spend the money on a 25 as I really dont want to spend money on a 21 year old motor.
Of course suspension is the first thing I am doing with a full set of cusco zero 1 coilovers going in in about a month or so. Also could I get a power FC with HC for my RB20 and still use it in a RB25 when I do the conversion?
cheers for the help guys
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yeah im deffiantly heading towards rb25. I was thinking rb25 head on a rb30 bottem end but I have heard that there is some very expensive modification that is needed to be done to the head in order for it to fit onto the block?
What kind of power would the set up that I have mentioned above give if running a garret t3 or t4? on a safe everyday tune?
thanks for your help guys and gals
Good luck
Toyota Hilux Manual 4X4 4Door
in For Sale (Private Whole cars only)
Posted
hey guys and girls
I have priced dropped the ute down to 14 990 as I now realise that 20 000 was way too much.
I am after cash only thank you