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hash87

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Posts posted by hash87

  1. Skyline r32 gtst type m, 1992.

    Price: $9300ono

    Contact: 0434 004 277

    Location: 20mins south of CBD

    Engine:rb20det

    exhaust:3''turbo back xforce/kakimoto.

    Suspension: Tein S tech springs

    Microtech lt12s.

    Microtech dash.

    Greddy fmic.

    Yellow Jacket coilpacks.

    Exedy heavy duty clutch.

    Bosch 040 fuel pump.

    Alarm/3 point Immobiliser.

    Brakes done recently (~2000ks ago): Slotted front rotors, plain rear rotors, QFM A1RM front pads installed, QFM HPX rear pads installed. Also have HPX for the front used for about 1000ks. BF600 brake fluid.

    Serviced every 4500ks with Motul Turbolight 4100.

    Well looked after and clean, running stock boost. Always garaged and regularly cleaned. Runs great and has served me well for the past year. Selling to buy a more sensible daily. Will get a safety cert upon deposit. 4 months rego left.

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  2. All,

    i'm having problems with the air con in my r32 rb20det.

    Problem:

    Whenever i turn the a.c. on at idle, the revs suddenly drop to ~200rpm and comes back to idle. If I blip the throttle ,the revs will go up and then come down close to stalling, then settle again. Makes it hard to drive in traffic.

    Details:

    rb20 with a microtech lt12s.

    Cleaned aac, even tried a different one.

    checked grounds and made a grounding kit, no difference.

    This problem slowly appeared and I can't think why it has.

    Any ideas?

  3. I thought lock bars were generic for all models.

    from memory i measured my lock bar and it was a couple centimetres shorter than the stock rack.

    My car fishtailed at anything over 50kph on the way to the alignment place.

    and they couldn't measure the toe because it was too far out to measure by their system.

    but they were able to adjust enough to normal.

    sounds weird they couldn't adjust 13mm.

  4. can it be this severe...its pretty scary at 60kph...

    i dunno if i'm game to drive it to the workshop....

    ok i'm beginning to think this is normal. it does look like the rears have a fair bit of toe out...and it makes sense because the lock bar is shorter than the hicas rack. And it makes sense the toe out would create the swaying.

  5. Hi all,

    I've done the hicas removal as per a guide using lock bar. Got it all done last nite and took it for a drive around the block to see if it was all ok and having real problems. At about 60kph the rear end starts swaying from side to side. It doesnt feel like the rear is out of alignment, it more feels like the rear end is loose and steering itself. IT gets quite bad at 60kph, the rear wheels start screaching a bit from the swaying.

    I've jacked the rear end up now and can't see anything wrong with it...all bolts are tight etc.

    I took a day off tomorrow to get an alignment done, hence the urgency.

    Any ideas?

  6. Yes those are the right points...

    You'll most probably need a breaker bar to get the bottom nut off as its sposed to be tight. make sure you don't round the nut tho :P

    Once you get the nuts off the hard part is getting the strut off the bottom stud. Some leverage will need to be done.

    Rear isn't any harder, just need to make sure you have jacked it high enough to get the strut out.

  7. Hey all,

    i'm havin a bit of an issue with my fuel pump. When its at idle the pump will intermittantly make a weird noise. It's a mechanical sort of creaking noise. Sort of like its struggling to pump for a bit. This will occur intermitently. I've only ever heard it at idle, and it gets more frequent when the fuel level is low.

    it is a Bosch 040 in a RB20det.

    Any help is appreciated.

    Thanks.

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