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britz1

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Posts posted by britz1

    Best Pistons Choice ?

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    Tell me about the oil control mods the engines have had?

    What size oil restrictors? Can't remember it's a rb 26 with 25 bottom end and custom pistons has rear blocked and front has 1mm I think

    What has been done to head/block in relation to enlarging standard drains? Yes all drilled outWhat has been done to cam covers? Mines cam cover baffles

    What has been done to sump? Winged with Jun gates nodded gtr

    What type of catch can are you running? A custom one with foam inside and a sump return with a pump for the huge amounts of oil

    How have you got the catch can setup? -12 lines to the can and a breather

    Best Pistons Choice ?

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    OK guys I am going to revive this thread... i have had a google and i cant find the info i need...

    I have built a few RB engines now and all have had CP pistons... All have heavy blow by and i have tried tightening the ring gaps head drains and different machine shops ect...

    they all do not breathe and oil out on the street but as soon as i use them in a drift application... 1-2 min of flatout 4th gear limmiter ect they chuck out 1 to 2 litres of oil into the catch can... i dont want to know how to controll the blow by as i have tried it all... it is just too much

    i want to know who has used what brand of piston for a drift application and what works... because CP is Junk and is never going in any of my motors again...

    PS i dont want to know about your mates street driven 900hp rb26... its just not the same as a drift car...

    C33 Laurel Wrecking Performance Parts

    in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)

    C33 Laurel Wrecking Performance Parts

    in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)

    Posted · Edited by britz1

    For Sale

    C33 Laurel Full Cage bolt in jap spec... May Suit A31 Ceffy... $500
    Wrapped in red padding for extra cool

    C33 Laurel Headlights and Grill $200 good condish i have 2 sets

    C33 laurel standard front bar (bit rough) $100

    C33 Laurel Kevlar bonett lightweight stock coppy $200

    C33 Stock Guards bit rough left and right $100 each

    C33 Rear Lights and boot garnish $250 the pair good condish

    C33 aftermarket fiberglass front bar Midnight purple very good condition $300 (G corporation) i have 2pcs

    C33 boot lid good condition has some holes from a big spoiler in midnight purple $200

    Cusco S14 Front coilovers $300

    Profec B Spec $250

    Djetro Power FC Suit 26 with FC datalogit and software(to connect to Laptop) $900 comes with Map Sensors and MAP Harness
    (This can be used with a MSD window switch and run on a RB25)

    Brand New Solid Diff Bushes suit R33,R34,S14,S15 $65

    S14 LCAS $150 for left and right

    R32 Brakes front with disks $250
    R32 Brakes rear with disks $200

    R32/s13 rear Subframe with Cusco Camber arms Cusco toe rods kazama traction rods. no diff or drive shafts chasing $400

    All items located in Perth Western Australia

    Can Ship at buyers expence

    please no pms on here txt or email or call

    ohhh409194818

    [email protected]

    Oil Control In Rb's For Circuit Drag Or Drift

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted · Edited by britz1

    i have spent ages reading this thread... i was just looking to see just howmuch is to much blowby

    i have a forged stagea rb25 botom end with a rb26 head... making 600hp atw with e85

    i have had problems with my machining and the cylinder to bore clearance is too big... near 5 tho.... long story but yer the rings arent sealing properly and im getting blowby

    oil system is hks rwd sump 10L, Jun oil pump, Jun Drive Collar,mines cam cover baffles, drilled oil returns and 1.2mm tomei restrictor in head and the other 2 blocked off

    -12 breathers to 5L catch can with foam baffeling and a VDO scavenge pump off the catch can.

    I recently tryed fitting a -10 line from the VCT drain bung to the catch can to try and vent some of the crank case pressure but it did not help..

    I only have one small kn filter on the catch can (-12 size) could this not be helping... should i have more breathers..

    Help Me Design My Cooling System

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    I have all that and it still won't work :( have clutch fan and new blades. quality radiator and everything else you mentioned and it works great but couldn't handle multiple laps of WA heat

    hmmm well my car has a cold air unduction pipe and a 12L jun sump maby its the big sump that did the goods... took longer to heat up the oil.... oh and btw i was at adgp in my R33 and it was overheating during prac... but it runs BP98 and adgp was stupid hot this year and prity hard on the cars

    Help Me Design My Cooling System

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted · Edited by britz1

    Mate i just had a brain fart......

    we have been drifting 500hp s1x Rb power cars for years here in WA and we have sorted the cooling problems... you neeeeeeeed to f**k off those thermo fans they just dont work... then use the old nidssan clutch fan and shroud, koyo rad and oil cooler (lots of guys put them in the corners but there gay and hit shit sooo i have a put mine inbetween the rad and FMIC and i cant get my oil temp over 90deg)...

    and the biggest thing is fuel... we run e42 (E85 mixed 1/2 with BP98) Jewmix but E85 is even better.

    oh and btw we had a guy do the rear radiator setup on a s13... it never worked just overheated constantly... he gave up and did what we where all doin

    Engine Assembly Question....

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    Ok guys sorry it took so long but its assembled.......

    there was a major problem i was havving.... my cheap dial bore guage was bot completely tight on the chast so as i spon it around in the bores it became ever so loose... after i noticed it i locktighted and then mesured again.... it was within specs

    i did bolt the head on with the old gasket and torqued it down mesured the bores and they where even closer..... so in reply the torque plate makes f**k all diference for mesurment and ring gap purposes but i would say it is needed for boring(due to extra forces it produces)post-62336-0-19933700-1353898839_thumb.jpg

    Engine Assembly Question....

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    I still don't see where you say it has been rebored. Did it just get a hone or has it been rebored for oversized pistons?

    sorry dude there 20 thou over so 86.5mm pistons all machined as per CPs Spec there custom dome pistons for higher compression as i am running a rb26 head with some combustion chainber work, i was also planing on doin the old plastesine trick to confirm the pistons dont fowl on the head, even thow my mesurments say there fine.

    Engine Assembly Question....

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    Forget what measurement you are getting with the block relaxed. Torque your head down with head gasket in place and then check the bore size from the bottom end with your dial bore gauge.

    That is the only real way to check it, as it is the closest you will get to seeing how much bore distortion there really is when the block is stressed.

    If the machinist was any good it should be no more then 0.0002" out of round. Bore taper should be much the same.

    Thanks bro that is the sort of info i was chasing.... i dont think it is my bore guage as it is consistant and the method i am using to mesure is correct... just no torque plate.... i will stick the head on torque it down n have a mesure..... for reference it was 0.02mm out of round with no plate with the wider side consistantly in ln line with the other cylinders.

    Engine Assembly Question....

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted · Edited by britz1

    Guys i have got my block back from machinest and are in the process of checking bores and piston clearance....

    with my cheap dial bore guage i am reading too much out of round... my machinist says its cos i dont have the torque plate on it.. is this true?

    how much dose the block relax when the torque plate is removed?

    i am also geting a taper of 0.01mm

    also is a digital micrometer nessasary for bores and piston measurment?

    Rb25 Engine Bore Mesurment

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    Ok just a quick one...

    im assembeling a rb25 at the moment and are coming across some issues with the bore out of round....

    the cp spec sheet states 0.003mm max out of round.... i am measuring 0.03mm out of round in some bores.... should i be sending it back to the machinist? and dose a Torque plate make much of a diference? as i dont have one.

    BTW im using a dial bore guage with a micrometer to reference it.

    Rb 25 Block Prep Before Assembly.

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    okies cheers guys i have removed the plugs. and i will fit new ones. i have oil restrictors aswell and a couple of plugs for the vct squirter and one of the oil squirters.

    What machine work did you have done?

    I got the block bored and torqu plate honed to piston specs

    Line honed with cradle torqued with arp mains

    Crank polished ballenced with clutch harmonic ballencer and flywheel. also taped the oil bungs in the crank and tapered the oil outlets on the mains and big ends journals.

    The machine shop rebuilt the head with new valves jun valve springs and bronze valve guides and skimed the deck.

    Machine shop also checked the CP pistons and Argo rods for weight and tollerences ect.

    I do need a bit of help in reguards to my compression ratio. I dont understand how to work out the piston height above the deck or the CCs of the piston dome.

    Please refer to the spec sheet supplied.

    Stats of motor

    Combustion Chainbor 69cc (Stock RB26)

    RB25 Stroke 71.7mm (stock)

    Bore 3.406in

    Head Gasket bore 87mm

    Head gasket 1.2mm Tomei

    6itlr.jpg

    Rb 25 Block Prep Before Assembly.

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    as title states guys

    i have a RB25 block i have got back from the Machinest it has had all the usual rebuilt work done.

    I am just after some info on cleaning up the casting dags ect inside the block. Whats the best way to aproach it?

    and what should i not do ?

    also i have an RB26 head and i am fitting it on the RB25 block. Using RB 25 crank and pistons. have other people done this sucessfully? how did the compression ratios turn out... as far as i calculated it was somwhere near 8.2 to 1.

    cheers guys.

    PS im using a 26 head because it was on my last motor and has port work and 272 10.5mm cams fitted. also the 25 block and crank was free.

    How Much Redline Water Wetter Do You Use?

    in General Maintenance

    Posted

    i have been using the water wetter in my drift car for a wile now but i use a diferent approach... half a bottle of water wetter mixed with half a bottle of techaloy coolant then toped up with distilled water. dont use other coolants techaloy works but if you use nissan for example the redline stuff reacts with it and makes milk....

    has been working for me for years

    Fuel Setup

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    Mate i have the same setup as you described on my Built 26 running E42...

    Bosch 040 intank feeding the 2.5l surge tank

    i have twin -6 Teflon Braided lines feeding each half of the sard rail with one 044 for each line... i am using a sard FPR witch returns down the stock steel lines conected to the center of the rail.... ( removed all the flex rubber fuel line because ethanoll eats rubber and replaced with ethanoll resistent stuff or Teflon Braid)

    This car has been making 600hp on pump fuel for 3 years and is now on e42 making 555hp with 5psi less boost (20psi)

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