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XxNinjaxX

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Posts posted by XxNinjaxX

    Brake Rotor Machining

    in Western Australia

    Posted

    hey guys just putting this out there but yeah i can machine brake rotors for $40/pair

    only condition is that they are already removed from the vehicle and dropped off at my place before hand :]

    this is for perth only!!!

    0406-190-674

    Thanks :]

    R32 Gtr Fuel Leak

    in Western Australia

    Posted · Edited by XxNinjaxX

    sounds possible that the leak is from the connection from the pump on the top of the tank +1 to opening the access pannel in the boot and taking a look, if its losing a bit of fuel pressure from the leak in the hose that will 99% be the cause of you're rough idle/jerkyness on acceleration.

    also, if the leak isnt the cause i'd be checking for vac leaks/ iac valve opperation (idle air control valve)

    Rota Grids

    in Western Australia

    Posted

    Rota grids

    18x9.5 +25 would this offset poke at the front on a r33 gtst?? I know +20 is fine for the rear but just mainly wondering about the front. Cheers

    Looking to get an answer ASAP as I'm wanting to purchase these rims pretty soon

    Rb25 Conrod Bearings

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted

    hey all im currently in the process or reconditioning a rb25, anyway to the point, im replacing the big ends and am just wondering if the number stamped on the intake side of the rods and caps are the bearing grades?

    ive been told that i need to look at the front of the crank for the grades for main and bigends are apparently stamped there aswell but ive also been told that the numbers stamped on the rod and cap are the grades

    can anyone clear this up for me?

    the numbers off the rods are as follows

    1# 0/I

    2# 0/0

    3# 0/0

    4# 0/I

    5# 0/0

    6# 0/I

    now those arnt "1"s like i would asume as grades go from 0>2 they look like capital i's but that wouldnt make sense since the grades are numbers only. so should just asume they are 1's?

    all feedback welcome :thumbsup:

    R33 Random Stalling When Driving

    in Western Australia

    Posted

    yup yup looks good to me, +1 for checking clamps, i changed my turbo and left 1 clamp loose which caused it to pop off the cooler pipe which then wouldnt lt it boost over 2psi and run like a bucket of shit + stalled. stalling and poor driving can also be affected by the standard bov as its held open very slighty on idle when vacuume is at its maximum however this does not have any effect as long as the bov is plumbed back into the intake as yours is. maybe check your afm clamps and insure the silicone joiners are making a good tight seal and not allowing excess air to enter after the afm. thats all i can really think of for now, other than that i guess make sure the afm didnt get accidently damaged when you installed the new intake pipe or is dirty :thumbsup:

    Is It Safe To Drive The Car Hard

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted · Edited by XxNinjaxX

    lol... in what state can p platers drive GTRs?

    WA, as previously stated. i brought my 33 about a month before i got my p's, its only mildly modded though and i drive like a granny most the time anyways :) i prefer to appreciate my car for the awesome peice of engineering it is instead of thrashing its nuts off every chance i get.

    Hesitating

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted · Edited by XxNinjaxX

    its R&R. your boost is too high for standard ecu so it chucks a sad. set your boost to 9psi max and you should be alright. my 33 used to do it at 10psi so im only running 7 now, havent had it happen since

    Forged Rb25det Build

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    take my advice on this, my first thoughts were much like yours, if you plan to build this motor and want 300>400hp rebuild it to near standard spec, forging it will make it less reliable in the long run.

    block hone (bore depending if it needs or not)

    new standard pistons (be sure the grades are correct)

    new standard rings

    full head recon

    arp main studs

    arp head studs

    stock bearings (once again be sure your grades are correct)

    extended oil drive collar

    stock camshafts (or poncams)

    adjustable exhaust cam gear (quicker spool up)

    bigger injectors (s15=cheap 470cc direct replacement)

    upgraded fuel pump

    standard oil pump (or n1 but do your homework, they are prone to failure)

    standard water pump (N1 not ideal for street car, its less effective at lower rev's)

    that should make 350 happily.

    Rb20 Overheating

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    One thing to note on Point #4, straight water is the best for cooling, it absorbs and transfers heat better than a mix of water and glycol.

    The more "radiator fluid" you add the less efficient the cooling system is, but it means the boiling point is higher and resists corrosion.

    cheers for the info, was unaware of that. However i run a mix of 60/40 and mine never even makes half on the gauge. the most water i would have in my system personally is 50% purely to avoid corrosion in the motor and lowering the chance of boiling the motor (defiantly don't want to do this!) but yeah that's just me, cheers again for the information!

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