[RB25DET R32 GTS-t conversion advice needed]

g'day im looking at doing a rb25det conversion from a r33 s2 into my r32 gtst and using a rb25 wiring harness. Is there much of a differenence in the harness from s1 to s2? Can someone directly experienced with this conversion help with a detailed wiring conversion? muchly appreciated

hay fella iv movd on from the skyline and the s1 25t,now in middle of this s2 25t into a31 cefiro convertion (WIRING SIDE) and trying to nut out what is wat as it is diff from s1 loom.i will put up info as i find out,will be slow but will work,UNLESS sum1 1 can line us up with a guide to the power up wires and how what colour they are.

the power wires for the 25det are wer the cefiro rb20de power wires are (ECU POWER IGN PWER) just next to pwer steering pump and resovior,now i can see to find the aac and the power to injecters wires.so im at this hump at this moment,

PS this site is so fkun helpfull honestly im in the wopwoops in NZ and no ! knows nuffn apart from here say sh1t

[RB25DET R32 GTS-t conversion advice needed]

Sorry I didn't finish guys.. lol

SMJ = Super Multi Junction. Thats the big plug by the ECU on the Rb25 rather than have several small plugs like the R32.

EGR = Exhaust Gas Recirculation. I think he means the ACC valve?

Heater hose adaptors.. $5 ones from repco will do it. The size of the RB25 is large 19mm or so where the R32 size into the firewall is 16mm or so.

Now for the wires.. I didn't hook up A/C as there was none.

In the R32 engine bay there are 2 plugs by the passanger side headlight.

You use 3 wires from one of them only. The other plug is for an Auto.

The 3 wires on the R32 are (Black/Red, White/Purple, White/black) the 2 large ones, are for the power to relays etc, the White/Black is power to sensors etc.

Now in the same location there is a single plug that runs from the RB25DET. From this it is only the grey wire that is spliced into the Black/White on the R32 plug. This is power for the injectors.

Under the dash at the SMJ you need to run 3 good sized wires up to the 3 in the engine bay on the R32 plug.

There is a Red/Black, Red and a Black/White

R33---------------------------R32

Black/Red---------------->White/Purple

Red------------------------>Black/Red

Black/White-------------->White/Black. (has the grey injector wire also attached to it.)

This is all that is needed for the car to run.

Now you just need to attach water temp, fuel pump relay and tacho under the dash.

On the R32 under dash loom there are two plugs. The colours are similar.. you need to use the ones on the smaller or the two. 14pin. The other has 18.

R33----------------------------R32

Blue/Black ---------------->Blue/Black. Water Temp. ( you also need to use the RB25DET engine sender. (single wire)

Yellow/Blue---------------->Yellow/Red. Tacho

Black/Pink------------------>Black/Pink. Fuel pump.

Ok I think thats it... Beer credits would be good.

I may have missed something.. i'm sure others can fill any holes.

Ben

thanks a sh1t load for this info been looking for ages now trying to figure it out,with the water temp sensor on my rb25det in my r32 i still cant seem to get it to work when connecting the wires you have advised,ANY other ideas

[Help With Wiring]

im running the r33 ecu,it has the small igniter pack (think series 1),motor come with the loom still atached to it uncut,

ne1 give me help with this ?????????

[Help With Wiring]

You using R32 or R33 ECU? Bought a complete loom? S1 or S2 or Neo engine?

im running the r33 ecu,it has the small igniter pack (think series 1),motor come with the loom still atached to it uncut,

[Help With Wiring]

hey ther guys im in need of info regarding wiring of my rb25det in to my r32 gtst skyline.iv tryd searching for days now and gotton no were,so basicly just need a idiots guide to wiring it all together,any help or links with be much apreciated

[Help Asap]

the ecu codes are above.i taped in number on google and gave me alist of every ecu ever.i havent found the other teething problems out yet ether waiting4a guru ta help

[Getting The Diff Bung Plugs Off]

also just ta put my 2cents in,if i have tite bolts at all i cant get undone i try tightening them more to crack the seal doesn't always work but may just help sum 1.i find a trolly jack handle on a breaking bar is the king

[Fast Blinker Flash?]

you can buy a electric part(forgot name)from electrical shop $12 ech NZ,al is needed is to cut 1 wire an connect to 1 prong of part and the other to lites. pretty simple really just slows down number of flashes per min

[Battery Problems]

also when you got ur keys in hand,pop the ecu kick panel off and see if the ecu is on or off.

i had same problem with my battery going flat after not driving it 4 5 days,was because the ecu was hard wired to battery,

solution,put switch between bat and ecu,also good 4 random switch in-case sum1 trys to whip your RB

[What Electricals To Disconnect In Compression Test]

hay bud al you really need is the cas disconnected to do test,also hav all plugs ot to allow easier turn over,youll also want reading to be within .5 of each other.hope this will help.

iv also have slow post backs lol get ya frustrated

[Help Asap]

got the ecu numbers sorted now

[Skyline R33 Gt-t Burns Extreme Amounts Of Oil]

iv got similar problem,what about if the pcv joopa is been bunged up and not being run

[Help Asap]

hay all,i just recently purchased a r33,it is running a 25det series 2 engine and ecu im thing anyway.

it had a loss cambelt so i tensioned it up al good,but when i put the timing lites on it both digital & the trusty old flasher,

it reads (digital) 4200rpm and fluctuates all over the show & continuously flashes on (old lite),when it is actually idling at .500 rpm.

when i also put car into gear when it running the engine tone changes and the rev counter works,but when in natural the gauge doesn't read idle

any input or directions would be mint

CAN ANY 1 TELL ME WHAT THE NUMBERS/CODES ON THIS ECU ARE...............

.........................G9 barcode

...............................23710 13v10

...................... mec.r730..B1..6625

if any1 knows were a site is with codes i have atleast a dozen ecu's i need to I.D

[Timing Lite Not Reading]

hay all,i just recently purchased a r33,it is running a 25det series 2 engine and ecu im thing anyway.

it had a loss cambelt so i tensioned it up al good,but when i put the timing lites on it both digital & the trusty old flasher,

it reads (digital) 4200rpm and fluctuates all over the show & continuously flashes on (old lite),when it is actually idling at .500 rpm.

when i also put car into gear when it running the engine tone changes and the rev counter works,but when in natural the gauge doesn't read idle

any input or directions would be mint

CAN ANY 1 TELL ME WHAT THE NUMBERS/CODES ON THIS ECU ARE...............

.........................G9 barcode

...............................23710 13v10

...................... mec.r730..B1..6625

if any1 knows were a site is with codes i have atleast a dozen ecu's i need to I.D

[Douhhhh]

so anyway.....the bleed nipples are there to let air out of the brake lines....air is lighter than brake fluid and travels upward so the bleeder needs to be on top.

you should check for a brake bleeding tutorial too because its a horrible thing to get wrong

cheers lol had calipers on wrong sides blond mistake al good now

[Douhhhh]

ok no 1 undestandazwhat im saying so now.

are the NIPPLES that i bleed from surpost to go at the top or the bottom.

iv got them at the bottom at moment

[R34/laurel/brake Booster And Cylinders]

so this is the deal

I have a c33 diesel laurel..

i have r34.5gtt front rotors and calipers.r34 booster,master cylinder.

i have the factory single diaphragm and master,but i have disconnected the rear lines & made a hydraulic handbreak,using the line from the master cylinder to the rear junction box,i coiled it up and connected it to my hand reak master cylinder,bleed it up and it seems to be doing its job.

now on my factory laurel master cylinder i welded up the valve that was running to the rear breaks(marked with a R),and reconected the 2 remaing lines that go to the r34 break i have fitted.

NOW iv tryed bleeding the breaks from ps of car,then ds of car & the presser goes down and then returns back

i have also put the r34 booster and master into the car and it only got 2 valves on side of it and a screw on the opposing side.

iv had them booth out because they booth do the same thing.......

I am pulling my hair out trying to sort it..........

any info will help.

also does any 1 no what the hex nut that screws into the factory laurel does

[Bleeding Lifters]

I'm not really one to go on about spelling, I use short hand as well but f**k, just spell the words correctly.

you must be 1 to go on you got the gist of it didn't ya?????

i didn't prof read it before i posted it just want answers asap

[Bleeding Lifters]

hay guys just a quick quiz

just bort a complete rb20de for $80 and it has had the cams taken out of it 4 sum silly reason.

im wondering if the lifters need bleedingb4 puting cams bak in.

reaso i bort it is because my girlfriend just snapped the cambelt on here series 2 rb25de and it cracked num 3 piston and conpletly f*ked the valves azwell.

cherz any info will be mint

[Neo 25t Rear Subframe]

just wanting to no if there any way to put a r34 complete subframe into my c33.it is set up like a gtr and has electronic lsd.are they any good or should stick with my lock diff.

[Neo Rb25t Into R32]

hi there people.well this is guna be a headache but iv just recently bort a ride off r34 gtt 1999,now these things have so many diff lines n vacuums running of them it not funny. now im wanting to no how easy or hard its going to be to install it into my r32 4door im looking for a ecu pin out if any1 can help me or refur me to sum1 or page that can help.

any help or comments are grateful and will help others in the future azwell.

[R32 Cradle Bushes]

Yeah I was looking into the solid metal ones - a mate did this on his A31 and said it improved handling noticeably. It's also kind of important, since the bush(s) seem to be absolutely stuffed now (ie car feels sloppy in the rear all the time, getting axle tramp and a feeling of a loss of control when cornering too hard etc)

hows that.i had same problem in my a31.when i came on boost it felt like it was twisting the chassis.so i droped the sub frame out and sure enuff ithe rubbrs wer torn.i bort sum alloy locking washes NOT pinapples,chucked it back in and was all gravey.my a31 hd 383.3rwhp and it stoped the twist and was also running a locked diff.

so i would run wih the locking washes only take 30min to slip in as you only have to undo the subframe bolts enuf to slip them in

[Installing Coilovers Into R32 Gts-t Coupe.]

leverage.

hay fela....start with putting the 2 nuts back on the top of strut finger tite.

you'll need a 19mm socket or spanner, don't no if you have herd of a thing called ring locking??????

its when you put the ring of 1 spanner on the bolt, with another spanner using the ring lock it into the open end of the spanner on the nut.

thus making more leverage.

Also try doing the nut up tighter then undo it.

once nut is off,use a long bar(screwdriver) to lever bottom of strut off.

then once off,put 1 hand under guard to hold strut,and the other to undo the nuts on top(finger tite).

boom its out.

when putting the new stutes in, you will need the lower arms to come up to the new hight.

undo the caster arm AKA(radios rode) nut and lower arm nut.this will allow them to swivel up and down.

if you dont the ruber insid them will terr faster.

goood luck

[Bosch 040 Fuel Pump]

^^^ Knob jockey!

<-- Here is a surprise for you

what cc is the pump????

[25 Vct Refitt To A 26 Head?]

i agree with nismoid on getting a 34 head.tho cant say iv herd of it being done before. would be a lot of time consuming trials and errors.