chad bob
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Posts posted by chad bob
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I used a 530CCA European style battery, I had to modify the terminals so that the stock terminal clamps would fit (a piss easy job). It barely fitted in the hole, but looks stock now that it's in there
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Hey Guys,
I really need some input here.
I'm thinking of taking the cheap route on my 300RX M35 2WD. It's wallowing cornering is starting to piss me off after 3 years of ownership as it does not tie in with the amount of urge that the engine is providing. It hangs in fine on a single corner, but when I try and link two apexes together, the weight transfer is like a motor yacht.
There is a local suspension shop doing Tien 50mm lowering springs fitted for $450.
I was hoping that you guys could offer your opinion on how you think the vehicle will corner on standard shocks with lower, stiffer springs? I can get the BC gold coilovers but after I fit them and certification they'll set me back $2000. Money I'd rather spend on my Trackday weapon if you know what I mean
So what are your expert thoughts?
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oops, there should be another connector, grey one that comes from temp sensor. It has 2 pins. 0400 pops up cos of temperature failure.
Btw I havn't seen egr valve on Stageas.
3 sedans in Adelaide already done that so it has been tested for a while and no errors
OOOh kay!
Was rather confused for a bit.
Stageas and Skylines are identical in the drive line so there should be absolutely no difference between a 300RX motor and a 300GT motor.
My EGR valve plug is grey and the 2 pin one next to it is blue though. Oposites game?
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Okay, I just had a look at the plug on my EGR valve and it has 6 pins. Not 2.
Are you sure yours only has 2 pins in total Nico? Or did you mean that you only bridged two of the pins.
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yes, there are 2 pins so you can use 10 Ohms or 20. have you got 0400 error? also you will have to put gasket (no holes, from stainless steel or whatever) between the valve and intake in order to block shit coming in.
Cool.
Yes as above I have blocked the valve by using an old exhaust gasket so nothing flows through but I'm getting 0400 error constantly.
Cheers mate. I will sort out a resistor as well and report back.
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Hey that resistor was a smart fix. I didn't think of that.
Which contacts did you bridge with the resistor? Are there only 2 pins in that plug? I have a constant error code for "EGR valve no vacuum".
Would be so keen to get rid of that!
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Last time I had a bastard bolt like this I wrapped a nylon strap round the spanner and hooked the other end to my engine crane. Had the wifey crank the crane until it let go. Almost lifted the front of the car on the spanner!
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Thanks for the info. Seems completely bizarre that they did not make the realtively higher performance VQ35 dd then. It also explains how the VQ30 makes only a small amount less power than the VQ35, which has always surprised me.
Yeah it is strange.
Expecially when you compare the power hike between the VQ30DE and the VQ30DD. The difference being the direct injection system.
VQ30DE: 230Hp, 294Nm
VQ30DD: 255Hp, 324Nm
You never know what the reasoning is behind engine changes made by auto makers. There are so many factors at play. Like why did they drop the VQ30DD and continue to supply the VQ25DD in 2003?
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Ah I had no idea they were so different. Is direct injection better than the VQ35 system? I know nothing about it. Is there a website I can learn from?
Not a whole lot of info out there. Which is why I started this thread.
The direct injection system is different in that it injects the fuel directly into the combustion chamber. Where as on your car the fuel is injected into the intake runners where it mixes with air before entering the combustion chamber.
The idea is that direct injection presents the 'spray' of fuel in a way that allows for more complete combustion. There is more control of how the fuel is injected in other words, so direct injected motors tend to be more fuel efficient and can potentially produce mor power than inderect injection motors.
You pay for this however as with indirect injection, the fuel vapour is present in the intake manifold and it 'cleans' the walls of the intake manifold while the engine runs. However as direct injected motors have no fuel vapour outside of the combustion chamber, the intake manifold ends up getting dirtier and dirtier as exhaust fumes and oil build up on the walls from the EGR valve and cam cover breather.
Most modern petrol engines these days are going Direct injection but they are coming up with ways to avoid the intake buildup problems. I am not sure why Nissan made Direct injected motors for a few years then stopped. I can only assume that it was cost driven as the hardware required to build a direct injected motor is not cheap and perhaps the maths wasn't working out for them.
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Hey nice cleaning job man!
I think mine still wins on the overall 'crud factor' yours still had silver areas left before cleaning
And Nightcrawler, you have a VQ35DE. You will not have this problem unless your engine number has 'DD' at the end.
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Well I'm going to do a handstand and climb into the drivers footwell with a torch. Going to have a look see at what switches are connected to the brake and what they might do.
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Errm!
What is a BCM sorry?
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I plan on installing a switch.
So I can actually launch and then turn it back on again.
I actually asked this in another post, but where does the BPP wire connect as an input? Is there a switch on the brake pedal with one wire for brake lights and one for the ECU? If so I'd just attack the issue at that end rather than trying to do it from an ECU pinout diagram (that I can't find
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Having trouble finding the VQ25DD / VQ30DD Pinout.
Do you have any idea where this wire goes at the input end? Eg: is there just a switch on the brake pedal with one wire for the brake lights and one for the BPP? If so, I'm keen to cut both and re-connect the one that makes the lights go
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Hey guys,
Can any of you post a picture / basic description of which wire we are talking about? I'd like to throw a switch in my 300RX and see if I get the same results in an NA stag. Might be handy for the non turbo owners out there.
Also the computer's clandestine grip on my throttle application is annoying me to no end!
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I guess this falls under general info.
Don't bother trying to do a burnout in your RWD M35. Computer says no.
It will limit revs to about 1500rpm and you will sit there doing absolutely nothing.
Before anyone asks why one would bother. Was at the gokart track and it's manditory to do a skid whilst exiting.
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*sigh*
Obviously a generic form that they fill out.
Just so as we are clear, in no way am I advocating that I would prefer a "Rotah" over a "Motah" (lol), but I feel you guys needed to understand that not all rotors are without torque.
Yeeeeaah.
With the addition of turbo chargers, rotary motors are capable of producing torque in usable ranges. You'll be using copious amounts of fuel to achieve this. However the man has a point.
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20B in the Cosmo had the same 407nm as our VQ25det from factory.
At what 10million RPM?
Rotarys do have torque, they have HEAPS of torque, but Torque = power / (2*Pi*RPS). So any high power output engine has big torque figures to match, but they make torque at such stratospheric revs and lack ANY torque in the lower revs. So in a real world situation theres none available
Anyway, sorry about the rant.
To me the idea of replacing a multi award winning, highly advanced platform like the VQ V6 with an out of date lump of iron would be a really bad decision from an engineering perspective. This decission could only be made on personal grounds, so you will need to forget any advice you get from anyone else. If you have a spare $10 grand and want nothing but a 2JZ powered M35 then do it, but don't ever ask anyone what they think about your ride.
I know which one I'd rather have!
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Just be careful, avoid getting cleaning detergent down into the engine through the ports. Make sure you clean all intake parts once removed, don't get under the bonnet with a hose I mean
Also be careful with the polished mating surfaces of the intake parts, treat them like CD's, put down rags before placing them on concrete and dont cink the rigid gaskets, they need to be nice and straight.
The hardest part of this job is getting round under the throttle to undo the EGR valve transfer pipe, it's a bastard every time, I used a $35 air powered 1/2" ratchet from supercheap. This way I didn't need room to swing the handle, just put on the socket and pull the trigger. This also comes in handy when doing oil changes, that under engine cover has too many damn screws! Your arm will fall off after undoing all those little buggers!
Finally do not over tighten the bolts when you re-fit everything, the intake does not need to be cranked down, all it needs is sufficient torque to provide a good seal.
Once you remove the top of the intake plenum you will realize that you did the right thing by deciding to clean the intake. It'll be a dogs breakfast in there if your cars done anything close to 100,000Km's !
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What's Your Mileage?
in Wagoneers
Posted
120,000Kms
-LF Wheel bearing at 95,000km
-Drivers power window is a bit slow.