M3ld

March 5, 2010

Well I unhooked the pfc, which was still plugged in fine, blew out any dust and re-checked any connections. Put it all back together and havn't had a problem yet. Did a 400km round trip and it went fine so I'm hoping the problem has been fixed by a unplug and plug haha

March 3, 2010

Thanks fellas, I will have a look into the immobilsor and try disconnect it all and see what happens

March 3, 2010

Checked the power fc, battery, afm plug and any other connection I could see and everything seems fine. Have to do 400km round trip tomorrow so hopefully it doesn't play up on me.

If it is the AFM that is shagged or the turbo timer would an auto electrician be able to test them to see if they are actually the problem without me having to replace them? The car is also running an alarm system with imobiliser so it could possibly be that aswell?

March 3, 2010

The exhaust was welded when it was off the car so It can't be from that. BUT they might have had it on when welding a bracket or two and I'm guessing they wouldnt have bothered to disconnect the battery. And yep, I am certain it started after the exhaust was done.

Still idles fine, no surging or anything like that. It has cutout before on me after coming off load and clutching it, but I am pretty sure that might have something to do with the knock off hks ssqv I am running?

But this is different cut out. It has happened 2 times when I have been cruising along with no gear change and not under hard load. Just cuts dead. And other times I have pulled up, let the car idle and get out to do something and a random amount of time say 30seconds later it cuts out. I forgot to add in my first post I am running a HKS turbo timer. Could something be going wrong with it?

Cheers for the input so far everyone.

March 2, 2010

Hey guys,

I have a r33 with the 25det. I have jsut had the cannon cut off and a set of shotgun tips put on. Now I have a problem. It drives fine, idles fine and doesnt backfire or anything weird. When I am driving along or pull up at idle it cuts out. Starts back up and runs fun for X amount of kilometres then happens again.

I have done just under 100km and it has happened 4 times now. I know the exhaust shop had to take out the oxygen sensor to do the exhaust. Could there be a problem with it now after being fiddled with?

I am running a power fc with boost control, front mount, plenum etc.

Any help wpuld be great, Cheers.

February 20, 2010

Really need this gone. Throw me some offers

February 19, 2010

Hey all,

I have for sale my R33 4 door. Its an Impul built 94 model.

Features:

Engine/managment/Induction:

Rb25det Manual

Vulture motorsports greddy copy plenum

Power FC with hand controller with boost controll kit

FMIC

Knock off HKS ssqv blow off, also have a plumb back attachment for it

Bosch or siemens (cant remember) 740cc Injectors (not installed)

Brand new Exedy sports tuff clutch (not installed)

KKR480 (not installed)

Turbo back 3 inch exhaust system

Short shifter

New alloy radiator with 12inch thermo run by an "Ice" adjustable thermostat

New water pump

Interior:

Impul adjustable bucket seats

Impul steering wheel and gear shifter

Smoke face boost and oil temp gauges

Sony double din dvd player

Clasrion front splits

New leather gear stick and handbrake boots

Exterior:

17 x 9 Impul lightweight alloy wheels

Cant remember what tyres but they are fresh with plenty of life left

Full body kit

Gun metal metallic paint (needs attention)

I am selling because my house has just started getting built and it has come to my attention that I need MORE MONEY ASAP!!

The paint has the clear coat peeling off and the front bar is stonechipped. Needs attention to get it back up to a high standard.

I am open to swaps and cash sales. Swaps for something like a datto 1600, turbo utes, rotary utes etc etc

I would prefer cash but show me what you have got! the pics are a lil old but it still looks the same.

$11,000 negotibale. Located in Gympie, 1hour north of maroochydore. I am prepared to travel if it helps you out with the sale.

If you want to contact me you can ring 0439709299, on here or [email protected].

December 1, 2009

Hey all.

Ive sen a few pics of 33.4 conversions and like the look. I need to paint and re-kit my 33 4door and wouldnt mind having a go at it. Can anyone tell me who sells the guards and bonnet. And what I should be expecting to pay for all the parts.

Cheers.

October 22, 2009

are you passionate about your car and parts you put on it??? if you are then done put the cheap crap on. i have been down that path and will never buy another shit part again....you will just do it twice...maybe even three...
either get agreddy one or a plazmaman one...simple. i put a plazma one on and its amazing. plus it actually fits!!!!

There are alot of dodgy cheap ones out there but some aren't to bad for the price. I paid $550? from memory and it came with a throttle body adaptor and everything you need to do the swap. Bolted on nicely and had no problems

October 22, 2009

Hey
Long story short I got a GReddy Copy forward facing plenum for basically nothing and am getting to the stage where I can put it on. Before anyone says anything im not putting it on for an extra 2000kw or anything, I just like the fact that it will clean up the engine bay and make a few things much easier to do. The plenum has been checked out and it looks all good.

Anyway.. Basically just after advice on a few things. I've looked through the thread about installing one and its pretty helpful.

- Cooler pipes - I have cheapish chinese cooler pipes that came with my cooler so I've decided I'm just gonna get new stainless ones made for it. I was going to run it through the hole where my current cooler pipe runs (sorta underneath the washer bottle on the side of the guard, the usual spot) but I think i might just run it straight through where the washer bottle currently is. Does anyone have any suggestions for this and if anyone is willing to tell me how much they paid for coole pipes to a FMIC then to the turbo with front facing plenum, keeping in mind i will have to have a pipe for the aac valve and BOV off the main cooler pipes.

- Washer Bottle - Ill be getting rid of my washer bottle for the cooler pipes probably (if i dont go through the current hole). Where is a good place to get a replacement with the two outlets for both washer motors? Have a mate with the same plenum and similar setup to what i want to run but he claims his washer bottle is out of a series 2 R33 (mine being a series 1) but Im not sure if thats where its from, his is mounted between the bumper and front part of chassis just before the radiator

- Just any other general advice or suggestions would be appreciated... I have a basic idea of costs and stuff and think I have thought of everything (have got plenty of boost line, got the kit with the plenum with all the adapters bolts etc and will be getting new intake manifold gaskets etc from nissan) so just any friendly advice that anyone has for me would be much appreciated

Thaks Guys

Hey dude,

I recently put on one of the vulture motorsport plenums. If you have done a bit of work on cars before you should have no big problems. It is a fiddly job, some of the bolts are in a f**ked spot and a few clips and stuff gave me a bit of curry but in the end it wasn't to bad.

I re-used the manifold gasket that came off the old plenum. Just put gasket goo on it and it's sweet as. Wouldn't hurt to fit a new gasket though.

With the plenum I have it has an adaptor to run the stock throttle body. I did this. With the adaptor the throttle body sits way forward, so I could only run a 90 degree silicone bend straight off the throttle body. I pulled the washer bottle out and cut a hole through where it used to sit. I wanted to keep the bottle in for legal reasons so I took it the the plastic welders. Got it cut in half, keeping the half that has the motors and got the side closed up. It now sits back in the stock position with hardly any f**king around

October 15, 2009

You have a bit of work to do here. The original paint m ust be Dyna braided back, not all the way through to the base coat - just evenly sand the clear coat and where the clear coat is flaking or comming off - feather it by sanding it back until you break through to the grey base coat underneath and do till you are happy that that area is smooth.Putty all your small digs etc with a fine filler and always sand back with a block to keep surfaces true and flat.Use an acrylic primer where and metal or repaired areas need somethin g to etch too. If you have no repaires then you can go straight over your sanded cear and Grey with the next step.If you do have reapaires as i think you do , then i would primer any areas that look like they need it to make sure the paint sticks, sand bach with dry 400. then blow the car off with air, then wipe the whole car with prepsol/ wax remover.Then make sure your floor is wet to stop any dirt in the air getting on you paint job ( after seeping of course). You can then applie you base coat Grey - just take the Nissan paint code to an Auto paint supplier and get mixed up - two litres if your only doing the outside. You will need to buy, The base coat Grey 2 litres, 2 litres of base coat binder to apply the flakes and then 2 litres of 2 pack clear coat(no flakes- just finishing coat). @ ltrs of Prepsol/wax remover ( cleaning agent before painting),dase coat reducer for the base coat (10% when mixing) and 2 ltrs of 2 pack thiners, 10% also.
If you want to put the black flakes over the Grey then you need to add the flakes to a base coat clear or binder. Once applied the base coat clear with the flakes in it will stick up and be rough, dont and i say do not attempt to smooth out the roughness by attempting to do more coats of clear over the top as clear will not FILL and just F%$k it all up. the bigger the flake the harder the work and make sure you have the correct tip when applying.

So - you have plenty of blocking back to do ( sanding) until there roughness has gone, block back with 400 wet and dry. Once your happy , block back again by hand with 800 wet and dry.

Blow off and do all the required preping - wet the floor - make sure you hair - cloths do not have dust etc and no finger marks oil etc on the car - thats what Prepsol does - cleans the surface. NOW - spray your clear in nice even sweeps about 250 mm away fro your job - slowish even sweeps about 3 seconds back and forth over a meter or there abouts. Try and avoid runs. Two coats of base coat clear and then one of binder with your flakes in then finally two coats of clear only - leave about 10 minutes between each coat on all.

Then shut all the doors and leave it till the n ext day.

quote name='M3ld' date='24 Aug 2009, 09:23 PM' post='4786161']

I have a gun metal grey 4 door 33. The clear coat is f**ked. I am lookng at getting the black flakes off of this site. Now what would I have to do for this paint.....So after I rub it all back then what? It is stone chipped and needs a few dents fixed. So after the prep work is done....Do I have to coat it in gunmetal grey or what kind of undercoat, followed by the flakes in clear and then clear it over again?

Awesome, thanks for the dude. When my shed in finally built I'll be having a crack at it!

September 19, 2009

Thanks for the replys

September 18, 2009

Hey all,

Tried searching but I couldn't get it to work. Semi computer retrarded.

I have a knock off hks ssqv on my 33. I am curious if there is a plumb back adaptor I can buy and where from so I can keep the boys in blue a bit more happier.

Thanks

September 13, 2009

Hey mate,

pics of the kkr would be good. I read that thread you made about the whining noise it was making. Did you end up finding out if it was the turbo or something else?

August 24, 2009

I have a gun metal grey 4 door 33. The clear coat is f**ked. I am lookng at getting the black flakes off of this site. Now what would I have to do for this paint.....So after I rub it all back then what? It is stone chipped and needs a few dents fixed. So after the prep work is done....Do I have to coat it in gunmetal grey or what kind of undercoat, followed by the flakes in clear and then clear it over again?

August 21, 2009

I'll continue this with pm mate.

August 21, 2009

Thanks for the reply. Well i'm gunna go past the highflow and get a bigger turbo.

Help me decide please haha....

I have a 25det, power fc, front mount, plenum already. I want to go high mount with an enternal gate. Why you ask? I want a high mount setup purely because I love the look of it over a low mount, and I want te power. I will be getting injectors aswell and possibly cams to support the upgrade. I am currently running 196rwkw with a stock turbo on 11psi. I want a good increase in power, say a turbo capable of 250rwkw or more while still trying to have some response and not be a complete lag master. What would you recommend in a high mount kit?

August 21, 2009

Itll help a lil bit more if you put up what supporting mods you have buddy

August 21, 2009

I just had a quick gaze at this thread. I don't know if it has already been covered or not....but what do these high flows compare with it the cunrrent lineup of hypergear turbos? Example is the op6 rear high flow the equivalant to a tr43 or something like that?

I have a power fc, front mount, plenum, apexi boost control. Just trying to work out if I should go the high flow route or something like a tr43 or 44. Lost!

August 21, 2009

Any idea what it would cost to freight to around brisbane?

August 20, 2009

Hey mate, where are you located?

August 20, 2009

I'm keen. If you could email at [email protected] when we have to pay. Please use that email incase I forget about this thread haha

August 13, 2009

Frozenwaffles:

The insert for the coolant hose was loose on mine aswell. It took it to the exhaust shop and got them to spread it with a machine they have ever so slightly. Then put a heap of sealant on and it tapped in fairly easy with a rubber mallet. The nipple were pretty hard to get into my housing, but they did go in. Just make sure you use some thread tape. The bolts in my throttle body and a bit off. The bolts they supply don't fit so I dodgied up mine with some other bolts I had. Need to go over mine again and fix up the rough bits I rushed. Im working in a different state and was due to go back, so she was all rushed because I needed to shift the 33.

I forgot to add...

It wasn't a perfect casting. Only one major defect which was underneath where the cooling pipe bolts on. It has 6 bolts I think. They all went in except one because the cast hole was about 3mm out. I just used extra sealant and bolted the rest up. It hasn't leaked and runs sweet.

What were the ebay jobs going for?

August 13, 2009

I bought a greddy style plenum KIT from vulture motorsport. Cost me $565 deliviered. It also came with a throttle body adapter and all the other shit you need to do this. Was a prick of a job. Im not a mechanic but like to do my own work so I had a crack at it. I Was pretty much stumped with it half on until I found this thread. Awesome write up

I run a 90 deg silicone bend straight off the throttle body. I had to cut the existing hole a bit more to make it work. Got a new lenth of straight intercooler pipe and had a vaccum nipple for something on the Power fc and the AAC line fitting welded in. Because the washer bottle now didnt fit I took it to the plastice welders. They chopped the bottle in half, right beside the internal pumps and sealed it back up. It half the capacity of stock now but at least it isn't a defect and you still have enough water to wash the windescreen.

The tosser who owned my car before me cut up the stock plenum and put the throttle body to the front greddy wank style. It hurt tuning and I have NFI why it was done. Ill put up some before and after shots....

August 8, 2009

Thanks for the replys, going for a cruise now

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