=STEVE=
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Posts posted by =STEVE=
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When they come off the car they were in working order. They arent sqeaking and they arent leaking.
Shipping can be organised to Melbourne at your cost. I will get a quote from pack and send tomorrow.
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Toowoomba Queensland
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I have the following parts for sale:
- RB20 Manual Gear Box: Used condition, smooth through the gears. 1st to 2nd can be sticky when cold: $400
- Genuine R32 GTR front mount intercooler: Very good condition: $200
- R32 GTS KYB rear struts: Un-used, still in box: $100
- Full set of R32 GTR struts and springs: Genuine GTR struts and aftermarket springs: $150
- RB30 Manual ECU: Working Condition: $35
- Volk GR-C rims: Good condition, comes with 40% tread, missing one cap (PCD 4x100, 7.5 inch wide),
Comes with adapter spacers to suit PCD 4x114.3: $450
- R32 GTS/GTR Steering Column Surround: Good Condition: $30
- Genuine Nissan Wheel Chocks x2: Used Condition: $15
- HR31 Auto Gear Box cross member, suit RB25 Gearbox conversion: Good Condtion: $40
- R31 Clutch master and slave including lines: Used Condtion: $70
- RB30 AFM: Unknown working Condition: $20
- R33 / RB25 Power Steering Pump: Unknown Condition: $30
- HR31 Coupe Boot Lid: Good Condition, Black: $75
- Nissan Space Saver Wheel: PCD 4x114.3, 100% Tread: MAKE AN OFFER
Postage at buyers expense.
Postage or Pick up for gear box, intercooler and wheels will need to be organised by the buyer!
See Attached Photo's.
- RB20 Manual Gear Box: Used condition, smooth through the gears. 1st to 2nd can be sticky when cold: $400
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hey do you still have a clutch master cylinder?
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Hi everyone,
Im just wandering if anyone has herd of the brand "buzz Spec"? I can get a full set of buzz spec coilovers for my 32 gts but apparently they arent height adjustable but are camber or damper adjustable. Any thoughts on this brand? Any objections?
steve
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hey everyone,
I fixed it! thank gawd!
It ended up being the afm... The K&N pannel air filter must have been over oiled (previous owner) and it irritated the afm. So i bought some specifically made afm cleaner and pissed the filter and air box off and replaced it with hks ram intake (mushroom type)
It now runs primeo! sounds way cooler too. Heaps of suction!
Thanks for everyone that contributed, really appreciate the help.
cheers,
steve
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Hi everyone,
Just another update;
Checked the IAC... It looks fine, rather tidy.
Checked the contact point on coil pack #1... that looks imac aswell.
steve
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Just an update:
I was driving this morning for about 10 minutes and the car ran fine???? WTF ????
So it may have something to do with the tempurature because it was under 10 degrees here this morning.
Keep the idea's coming guys!
cheers, steve
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the idle could be something to do with your i think its called the IAC motor i think thats what its called, solinoid up the back near your plenum could be dirty or have crap in it that affects the airflow, or the other thing to check would be your stock BOV could have a leak, when i installed an atmo bov on my old r32 i used to get a similar problem exactly like yours cause it didnt like the venting to atmo and rb20's are know for it.
Yea i've heard of the bov causing trouble if vented to atmo. But it looks quite tidy as said its only done 139,000ks. But i will look into that.
IAC sounds like a good candidate because it effects the engine depending on the amount of load? Is that right? But anyways il look into that, cheers!
Keep the suggestions coming guys, can use as many as possible. Its so fkn wierd! I've never seen this sort of thing happen before. lol
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i think we need a little bit more info here..
are your iridiums gapped to .8? or higher?
can you tell the difference between a missfire and a rough idle? if it is a missfire it will most probably be a coil pack. could be a plug too. just because the plug looks good doesnt mean it is good.
will the engine rev over 2300RPM when it is playing up? if not it is most likely your AFM.
could also be a boost or vac leak but it seems unlikely considering you say the problem is intermittent. a vac leak will cause a rough idle and possibly stalling depending how bad it is.
any more accurate info will help us diagnose your problems
well the plugs are gapped right, checked the part number with repco all good there.
sometimes it will idle fine but other times the idle is irratic... say 600 rpm to 1200rpm etc.
The engine revs fine. Just tonight when i was driving it cut out in the middle of the street so when i eventually got it restarted i dropped the shit out of it and it lit up the tyres fine. Then i few seconds after normal driving it cut in and out again.
The intercooler piping is stock and havent touch it so i think its unlikely to be that. Also it would not account for the total randomness of it all.
When i do get in a chance to up it my aftermarket (autometer gauge) reads normal and holds at 12psi.
Also the engine does clunk out when its cold so i dont think that its the coil packs because i have herd they usually only tend to bugger up when hot.
cheers
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Hi everyone,
Background:
The car is an R32 skyline with 139,000 kms on the clock. It has been well maintained engine looks tidy and has full log book history. The car is pretty much stock, the only mod is a full 3 inch zorst inc metal cat and 3inch dump off the stock turbo. So stock air box and stock intercooler all in wonderful condition.
Problem:
Very randomly the car will do the following;
- While driving, whether under boost or just driving steady, the engine will cut out and cut back in again.
- When stopped engine will run lumpy and stall and starts fine afterwards. (this happens occasionly, not as much as the above)
- Heavy engine vibrations when in higher rev range.
Steps taken to try and fix:
- changed fuel filter
- cleaned air filter
- checked spark plugs (iridiums in excellent condition)
- checked fuel pump filter (in tank)... little bit of crap in there. Cleaned with kero, dried and reinserted into tank.
- did a basic test on coil packs 1,2 and 5 (easiest to test without removal). I wasnt to sure on the resistance levels but the three were consistant with eachother.
- inspected afm... looks tidy. (did this because was a bit worried about k&n panel filter being over oiled from previous owner)
Nothing has changed a single thing into the way it is running. Can someone please help me diagnose the problem, its ripping my brain appart arg!
Cheers, steve
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How much oil are you putting in?
I've almost put a full bottle in. (5L bottle)
The dipstick is showing full, 'right on the money!'
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k guys, thanks for that. cheers
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hey everyone,
I have only just recently become a 32 owner and already have a few questions if anyone could help.
I've just done an oil change from Royal purple to Motul 4100 turbolight.
They both have the same viscosity range (10w40).
After the change i noticed that my oil pressure is low on idle after driving. Pretty close to zero in fact.
When up in the revs (say 3000 to 4000 revs) the pressure needle doesnt get much higher than 2kg/cm^2
The royal purple that was in it also did the same thing. But the royal purple wasnt very nice to the motor on cold start up, in that i could hear ticking.
So my question..... Is this a normal reading for oil pressure on the RB20??
cheers,
steve
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Hi everyone,
I thought I would introduce myself. I am a mechanical engineering student in toowoomba in my last few years.
My previous cars are as follows:
- 1st. Holden commodore VH
- 2nd. Toyota hilux 1986 2.4 diesel
- 3rd. Holden commodore, Berlina VS
- 4th. Toyota Supra 1986, 7mge
- 5th. Same as above, just converted to 7mgte. (It was a completely different car to drive)
- 6th. Nissan R32 Skyline 1992
I only just recently bought this car from a guy in Brisbane. Extremely tidy. Pretty much stock only sports exhaust fitted. However, it is running 12psi boost but the waste gate actuator looks stock. If anyone can help me with an explanation for that...
steve
- 1st. Holden commodore VH
Fs: Assorted Skyline Parts R31, R32 Gts, R32 Gtr
in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
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