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RCCC

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Posts posted by RCCC

  1. I had the Akrapovic evo Titanium exhaust (with carbon fibre tips) fitted to my 2011 R35, supplied and fitted by Tunehouse in Sydney. Tunehouse are a local distributor of these exhausts. ( http://www.tunehouse.com.au/ )

    If you want a premium exhaust it is pretty hard to beat. Akrapovic are one of the leading aftermarket exhaust systems makers in the world. http://www.akrapovic.com/car-exhaust/

    There is a weight reduction of 17kg with the titanium system..

    I had it dyno'd before and after on a Dynapack hub dyno for good benchmarking, on a stock car.

    Another reference:

    http://www.southernc...ust-p-3272.html

    I have no problem believing this system will easily support far higher power levels.

    Sound is noticeably deeper and sportier than standard; I think it sounds far louder if you are outside the car than if you are in it. It has more of a "Euro" sound, I think it has a far better sound than the jap exhausts. With the windows up you will hear the exhaust, but I'd rather hear an exhaust than tyre/road noise. This exhaust is a good compromise without upsetting the wife. I have 5 turbo cars with exhausts ranging from stock quiet to very loud, and this one is in the middle with regard to sound db, but I think easily has the best note.

    Results:

    1. Exhaust benchmark

    Red is after exhaust

    Green is baseline

    Peak power is up from 346 to 370awkw; up 6.9.0%

    Peak torque is up from 611 to 629NM; up 2.9%

    Torque is up a maximum of about 7% at 3200rpm, but that increase reducing up to 4700rpm, then noticeably increases again above 6000rpm.Power increase was up around 20rwkw, but really only seen over 5500rpm wherethe stock car flattened, but with the exhaust the power kept increasing. Ithink the increase in top end was a good pointer to its capability if pushed further.

    If you look at the akrapovic dyno graph at http://www.akrapovic...9/evolution-65/I'd say they are almost spot on, except that I got more top end from 5500 rpm than what they claimed on their dyno graph (they used a 2010 model whereas I have a 2011).

    akrapovic_base_GTRR35.jpg

    2. 1st very conservative Ecutek tune, no other changes otherthan exhaust.

    Then Tunehouse added a very conservative starting Ecutek tune with just 1 pound extra boost (peak boost 15lb compared with 14 stock), resulting power was up around 11% from 2500rpm all the way to 7000rpm. Main difference isfelt from 2500 to 3500rpm, with torque up around 25%, and I believe that has alot to do with bringing boost in earlier, and that is the area where the akrapovic exhaust excels. That makes the car far more flexible and better carto drive, and it pulls far stronger from 2000rpm.

    Excellent jump in power and torque everywhere; boost isbrought in earlier.

    Compared with original baseline, torque is up 30% at 2500 and up 25% at 3000rpm, so it is far more responsive low down and far more driveable.

    Peak power is up from 346 to 384awkw; up 11.0%

    Peak torque is up from 611 to 680NM; up 11.3%

    akrapovic_1st_tune_GTRR35.jpg

    3. boost used for that tune :

    More boost under 3200rpm, otherwise peak boost up just 1lb ;14lb to 15lb ... bugger all.

    akrapovic_1st_tune_boost_GTRR35.jpg

    So I and tuner (Tunehouse) are very happy with the exhaust choice, and a very good base from which to push higher if required.

    It is also of the highest quality.

    Brian

    How much did the exhaust and the tune cost?

  2. How does Nissan warranty the LC4 at 4000rpm launch but not the previous programs?

    software only

    4000rpm launch is right at the limit of what the stock tyres + stock power can translate to forward momentum

    if your car is mod'd, id opt for a lower launch rpm

  3. is the transmission hardware in 2011 and earlier cars identical? Would LC4 damage the earlier cars ? Lastly Martin, which gearbox program is better? the AP or the Nissan LC4?

    Thanks

    Yes, we have been doing this for a few months now. Nissan cant do it with the Consult to the best of my knowledge.

    Speedah on here has 2011 LC4 in his 2010 ADM GTR :)

  4. I can smell fuel near the right rear tire after a drive when the car is parked, I know it's close to the fuel cap, surprisingly there is no petrol smell near the cap, it's more from the tire section of the car. is this normal?

    Thanks

  5. I've got a white 2009 OCT with 6000k on it, not a single scratch on the car, just done the 18month service, interested?

    Yeah I have and am speaking to a few people, I just thought this would be the best place incase an owner was going to trade in there car for a 2011mdl well they can let me know and I'll buy there car instead.

    I know myself sometimes when Considering to sell or not, if there was an easy buyer there without advertising or anything, I would sell :)

  6. I am thinking of buying a Range Rover Sport TDV6 as a second car, has anyone had any experience with this car? Its engine block is made of cast iron whereas the V8 versions made of aluminium. Any comment on its reliability, cost of maintenance, etc is appreciated.

    Cheers

  7. Nope its 18 months or 30,000 whichever comes first so Nissan will change it no matter what. If you do kms they would have inspected your fluid at 20K and found it to be OK otherwise they would have changed it then meaning the next inspection would be at 40K and mandatory change at 50K if it checks out OK at 40K. I wouldn't be too fussed either way because a couple years ago the trans fluid change interval for JDM delivered cars went up to 60K. Can't imagine there would be any reason why ours can't be the same.

    Thanks fungoolie. Does it mean the aging of the fluids should not cause damage to the car? I just don't like changing things unnecessarily.

    Thanks

  8. Thanks mate, I'll give it a try, however my next service is due, it's time to get the HPC to take a look of the car, I think it's running a bit rich with heavy carbon residue buildup in the exhaust tip.

    1) Once you smell the exhaust gas, can you stop the car > quickly open the boot > is the smell more prominent there?

    2) Can you dust the rear boot rubber moulding with talcum powder > close the boot > open the boot > see if there is any powder remaining that indicates a poor seal?

    Just looking at a simple possibility.

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