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-S-

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Posts posted by -S-

    Afm repair ???

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted

    ok ill have a look... also just wondering when i said second one ive seen busted.. the first one was on a friends Subaru STI... i messaged him just now and just remembered he actually managed to drive home  by unplugging his afm... so i tried doing mine as well just now but it doesnt want to idle... it started and just died instantly... anyway ill have a look... fingers crossed its still working so all i have to spend are just filters... :/ 

    Afm repair ???

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted

    Hi all,

     haven’t driven my car in about 2 years and decided to drive and I think I’ve busted my afm because my air cleaner  has some of the sponge missing…car won’t idle…  is my afm busted or can a quick clean to the sensors do the trick ?? It is using a r35 afm… and damn those hks air filters… second one I’ve seen busted due to not being driven in a long while… 

    Mamba Internal Wastegate Diaphragm Leaking?

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted · Edited by -S-

    Manage to find my old video where I made sure there was no restriction with the iwg movement. From the looks of it, it looks like I have to find my boost issue else where since you proved its not the iwg :( 

    Have been hesitant to get a boost leak test like what you've done in your video but oh well... 

    BTW dumb question but your leak was blown through the iwg and not the intake right? 

     

     

    Mamba Internal Wastegate Diaphragm Leaking?

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    After reading your post, I'm beginning to suspect this f**king POS wg is the culprit I can't build a steady boost and not because of my turbo housing which I personally instructed a shop to modify. I can't guarantee it is the cause of my boost issues for sure but prior to using this POS gate I had no issues with my ebc set up using even the stock iwg. BTW I was even using the most hardest spring that came with it!!!

    But thanks for sharing your findings. something for me to look into now.

    Need Advise! Car Wants To Rev By Itself!

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    Guys... My car is possesed/idle hunt again. So obviously I knew what to do. Idled great after cleaning. Been years since I last cleaned it...
    This time however I didn't fully remove the screw though as I'm afraid I might damaged the rubber oring like I did in the past... Plus it was really really hard to fully remove the screw. Pos oring must've been stuck.

    So anyway it started idle hunting less than 2 days later !!! very mild but got worst over time... Now it's basically idle hunting in every traffic stop but it WILL go away after 20 or so seconds...

    Any ideas where I should check again? Or is the iac valve tired/broken? Or maybe the solenoid? Or maybe the oring is damaged?

    What power do you experts think is possible

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    Dude, my whole build thread is about doing things the wrong way (and I'm still correcting my faults) - so yeah, definitely do it right!
    As mentioned, get your turbo High Flowed. I personally have got a Hypergear G3 profile on a 21U turbo, it picks up pretty quick, has no problems on 19psi and I'm not even at my final tune. For the record, I made 230rwkw on this turbo @ 14psi (couldn't hold boost at the time due to wastegate). If you're playing the long game, you can high flow your OP6 housing for more future power, or as ADM said, go 21U for quicker response. Not sure on your boost control plan?
    As for the AFM, don't make my mistake and buy a cheapie. Get a genuine Bosch Z32 unit. Will cost $250-$320.
    Ditch the Yellow Jackets. If you absolutely can't spend the money on Splitfires, then gap plugs down as mentioned.
    Also ensure you've completed the relay mod on your fuel pump so you get full voltage and full juice.

    If I was in your shoes right now, I'd be going:
    • High Flow Turbo
    • Decent EBC
    • Z32 AFM
    • Splitfires
    • Relay Mod
    For approx $1800-$2200 in parts you'd then achieve 240-260rwkw. 

    Check out my build thread in the sig. I've gone through all of this already (as have many others on this forum).


    U received my pm? Lol ;p

    Oil Control In Rb's For Circuit Drag Or Drift

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    What's your point/question?  The one in the bag clearly looks like it's bigger than either of the 2 in the block.  This is why god invented round feeler gauges.


    I thought my eye sight is poor but you're the first who kinda agree with me that the 1 in the bag is bigger. All the others mention they look the same. Mind u the 1 in the bag is from tomei so that's 1.5 mm and yes I just measured it...

    I swear my engine is bone stock prior to this "rebuild" but who knows what this ecr33 was back in the days in japan... Lol

    What have i blown?

    in General Maintenance

    Posted

    Yesterday I went for a drive. Anyway i did a WOT on 1st gear ... lots of black smoke but around 5.5k rpm i heard a pop sound followed by white smoke. .. head gasket or turbo? I was still able to drive it to my friends place after that cruising at about 80 km/h off boost . Water temp is stable throughout...

     

    Checked dip stick this morning. No signs of water. .. just need to know what I'm expecting to get replaced. ..

     

    Gah...[emoji52]

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