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ksx

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Posts posted by ksx

    Engine Works Well At High Boost

    in General Maintenance

    Posted · Edited by ksx

    Problem fixed!! :thumbsup:

    Vacuum hose cracks (one was completely spilt all the way along the hose!), useless plugs (original modified to 0,5mm!) and crack angle sensor set to 27 degrees!! :D

    Air regulator, AFM and ignition coils works just fine.

    New spark plugs, rubber hoses and crack angle back to original 15 degrees - it's all fixed and it runs like a dream! :)

    Engine Works Well At High Boost

    in General Maintenance

    Posted

    Might be that you're running too cold plugs. What plugs are you running?

    list of mods?

    Actually don't know. Havn't checked since I bought the car, the plugs were brand new then. Will check tonight or this weekend. Temp grade 6 is standard, right? With my mods which I've already listed above, should I go for 6 or 7?

    I've changed a life. My job here is done :P

    So when cruising you would be driving on vacuum not boost yes? On boost you would be accelerating. Does it hunt at idle, like rev up and down? And is it more pronounced when the car is warm or is it exactly the same when it's cold? Sort of sounds like it could be a problem my mates R32 had, was effectively a vacuum leak. The air regulator was stuck open, so when the car was cold it ran fine but when it warmed up the air regulator was still open and the car was getting too much air. Ran fine when you were accelerating, but trying to cruise it would just stutter and jump, etc.

    Could also be a problem caused by that atmo bov you have.

    Yeah, you're right, vacuum not boost, sorry. I find both the technical issues and the language quite hard you see...

    The rpm stays quite even at idle, but not as even as it should be I guess. It "huffs and puffs" quite much at idle, and it's no difference between hot or cold engine. Sounds as your friends R32 had the same probs as mine. Will check the air regulator. One question though; where's the air regulator and how do I check it? :ermm:

    In what way might the bov be the thief in this drama?

    Could be the stock ECU is gumby, or the AFM is fail....sounds kinda like it might be running excessively rich, but once the airflow climbs up with more boost, it compensates and evens out...

    What I've heard before the stock ECU would cope with the mods I've done already (pod filter, fmic, cat-back, ssqv)? Do you have other experiences? If it is what you say, then a new ECU is the only solution I guess..?

    How do I check the AFM? Already pulled out the AFM cable when engine at idle and it started to run really bad, almost died. That means the AFM works, at least a little bit? Can I clean the AFM somehow?

    Thanks for your feedback! Will have to bring a lot of swedish girls to compensate! :D

    Engine Works Well At High Boost

    in General Maintenance

    Posted

    hehe, ok! That's all I need to hear, you just made me decide to move there :(

    Will need to start looking for jobs first. Thinking about Holden, where's the development site situated?

    The car runs with stock ECU. It's all stock except HKS pod, FMIC, HKS cat-back and HKS ssqv.

    It happens while cruising, anytime the boost is gentle and even. Decel or acceleration works just fine.

    :laugh:

    Engine Works Well At High Boost

    in General Maintenance

    Posted

    Hi all,

    Having problem with my R34 GTT:

    Engine goes very rough at low boost levels, for instance at idle speed and when revving without any gear engaged to about 2-3000rpm it “coughs” and seems to have very rough hiccups all the time, if you know what I mean…? At high boost levels it runs like a dream though, no problems at all to rev to the limiter and there’s plenty of power without delay or hesitation.

    So, wtf!? What do you reckon?

    Stuff on the car: pod filter, fmic and 3” cat-back.

    Also, thinking about leaving Sweden to move to Australia with my girlfriend. Do you recommend it?

    Slow R33 Intercooler Install (in Progress)

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    Double check 'Post #8', then the 3rd pic.

    It's a pic of the intercooler hole i drilled from inside the engine bay.

    You can see the hole is below the bottom screw of the original washer tank.

    All good

    Problem is that on my R34 there's some type of cooler (my guess is for the power steering oil) mounted in that area. It's not possible to move, the piping is hard, and it doesn't allow me to angle the original tank. I solved it yesterday by mounting a smaller tank inside the engine bay.

    Installed Fmic On My R34 Gtt

    in General Maintenance

    Posted

    Hi all,

    as topic says, just installed a FMIC on my GTT. The piping doesnt allow the washer tank to be installed at it's original position. :)

    Where could/should I put it, and how?

    The vehicle inspection is getting nearer and I need to fix it as soon as possible. I would appreciate if you could help me.

    Thanks,

    Karl

    How Much Can Original Ecu Handle?

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    Thanks for the tips guys!

    Will go for a new front pipe and 3" cat and FMIC first, it seems to be the smartest way of doing, as you say. Boost controller will be the 2nd step.

    If I don't want to go for a Nistune (which is hard to find in Sweden) or a Apexi (which is so damn expensive), is the HKS FCD the best option to control air/fuel-mix?

    How Much Can Original Ecu Handle?

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    Yeah, 12psi is what I was thinking as boost level. So you mean that I should get a downpipe and de-cat/sport-cat and a Nistune chip before I buy a boost controller?

    As I live in Sweden, and Skyline were never sold here, Nistune chip is quite hard to find. Can you recommend a web store that sell Nistune chips?

    After installing the chip a re-map of the ECU is needed, right?

    How Much Can Original Ecu Handle?

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    Hello everyone,

    I have an R34 GTT with open air filter and 3" cat-back exhaust system. Thinking of adding a HKS EVC-S boost controller. Will that work just fine with original ECU or will the engine go dry (air/fuel mix)?

    What if I install a downpipe and race-cat as well? Will it still work fine?

    Thank you very much,

    Karl from Stockholm, Sweden

    Hello From Sweden

    in Newbie Introductions

    Posted

    Hey all.

    I'm a typical 'Swede' looking for a good place to ask questions and find information, and I finally found it!

    And believe it or not, I'm not driving a Volvo station wagon :(

    Skylinesaustralia.com seems to simply kick *** with the swedish Skyline forum.

    And yeah, I drive a R34 GTT.

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