OLLIE_NZ
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Posts posted by OLLIE_NZ
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Me too, I'm just glad we sold it prior to this happening
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If you watch this YouTube video of another car racing that day, you can see the corner leading up to the sign that the GTR hit at 1:20
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Oops!
Was just sent these links by a friend......
Pretty sad to see it like this after all the hard work that was put in.
Car was sold in March to make way for a 996 GT3 cup car (which turned into a pregnant wife instead)
Check out the small gif 'video' in the link below too
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i66/geoffwnz/Skyline.gif
Wellington, New Zealand. Seaview Sealed Sprints event.
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Front uprights
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Hi Brad, have you done anything in the way of custom goose necks on an R32 GTR?
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Hi guys,
Thanks for the insights
To answer a few more questions.
- blackrex, we've not had the tyres off the rims yet so aren't sure but should go ahead with removing them as they're only good for the bin now.
- Munroman, have you managed to fit a 680 rolling diameter rim under an R32 GTR? We'd love to go down this path as the Porsche Cup slicks are a dime a dozen over here. We did look into this before we went for 17"s but were told a 270 68 R18 wouldn't fit.
- Fastig, we can't afford new slicks (these were bought from Michelin New Zealand second hand) they had done a 12 lap test with them when we bought them. But will definitely get pyrometer
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Thanks for the replies so far chaps,
To answer a few questions in no particular order
- No pyro reading as we don't yet own a pyrometer
- The temperature on the day was no more than 20 degrees, it was an overcast day so not too hot. Not sure on the temperature of the track surface itself
We started the day with 28psi cold all round and worked from there We were aiming for 32psi all round hot and were pretty close to that after letting one or two psi out after our first session. We took pressure readings immediately after pitting the car and took note of them. (off the top of my head the highest reading I would have seen was 34psi hot and the lowest 32psi hot)
There is very slight rubbing on the front plastic wheel arch liner but the is only on near full lock and only affects the outside wall of the tyre.(there's no way we would see anywhere near full lock at this track)
If there was rubbing elsewhere surely that would show up on the tyre itself wouldn't it? There is very little evidence that I can see looking at the pictures that I can see.
Picture of the car (sitting far too high as we had just put new springs in the front)
Camber 4 degrees, caster almost 7 degrees, Front toe 0mm
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Rubbing wasn't the issue if you look at the last two pictures you can see the writing on the side wall perfectly untouched and also the ribbed lines the run across the sidewall.
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Hi guys,
We took our R32 GTR out to the circuit last weekend and everything was great until we got the car home and up onto the axle stands to inspect everything.
When we took the front tyres off we noticed the inside wall of the tyres was starting to come apart (see pictures)
We don't feel we ran them too low pressure wise (we started off with 28 psi cold) and then worked towards a 32psi hot on all four tyres.
There's no visible damage to the outside wall of the tyres
The main tyre that is really bad is the left hand front tyre (inside wall), the two main almost hairpin corners at the track are right hand corners and the track is predominantly right hand corners and quite high speed.
Any thought as to what has caused this? The New Zealand Michelin Motorsport tyre distributor has told us we ran the pressure too low which we dispute.
Tyre size is 240/640R17
Prior to this session at the track the slicks had done twelve laps.
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Very small update chaps.
Today I replaced the springs with some linear Eibach springs as the car had some progressive ones in it.
I ended up going for some 800 Ib front and 500 Ib rears after much head scratching.
I got some helper springs to keep the rear springs captive as when the car is up off the ground there was about 50mm of slop with the spring.
Also purchased and installed a Cusco rear sway bar.
On the way from Japan is an Ikeya tie rod end set.
Made a cardboard mockup of the centre console, maily to hide the dash bars. Will probably make the final thing up tomorrow from aluminium.
Rear sway bar
Rear springs in
Fronts done
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I have exactly the same issue Matty.
It seems as though the sign in box is blocked by the add banner.
I've tried using explorer, Firefox, chrome and opera.
I can only login on my iPhone.
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Just to add chaps, nothing that already hasn't been mentioned.
The problem I have is that I can't Sign In to make a post or thread at all.
I've tried Firefox, Explorer, Chrome and Opera.
When I click on the Sign In tab all that comes up is the add box and nothing else.
The only thing is can post on is my mobile phone (iPhone)
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Hi guys, thanks for the replies, I've just woken up so will write a better reply soon to answer some questions.
I never mentioned what our spring rates were or the fact that they are progressive which isn't what we want I'm guessing?
Roy, I'll pop out this morning and grab a rear Cusco sway bar.
For the fact that the springs are progressive and that we don't mind coughing up for some replacement Eibach springs should we just do it, if so does anyone want to throw out some numbers?
This is what's written on our springs which for the life of us we couldn't work out what they meant.
Rear 'Merwede Progressive 250 49 98'
Front '25 250 59 118'
We then emailed Merwede to hopefully get some answers, this is the response email (I've tried to add the conversions in red)
Good morning,
I've looked for the springs in our system, but was unable to find it. But nevertheless, I think I know the spring rates from the code on the spring.
For the rear it's progressive from 49 to 98 N/mm (280lb – 560lb), (5kg/mm - 10kg/mm)
For the front it's more difficult because that code doesn't mean much to me. But if the spring is also progressive, it will be 59 to 118 N/mm (340lb – 675lb), (6.4kg/mm - 12kg/mm)
Hop this serves you well.
Best regards,
Ramon van Dijk
Merwede Springs
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Thanks for the reply Duncan.
I'm not sure why there's been no response so far.
I am hoping to go and buy the springs tomorrow and at this stage I'll be going for 900 fronts and 500 rears (unless someone here scares me off)
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Hi fellas,
I know there's a tonne of threads about springs etc but I can't really find anything relevant to what rates the majority of people use for their circuit only cars.
As some of you know I have a 1994 R32 GTR which is used exclusively on the circuit.
-The car runs full slicks (240/640R17) Michelins/Dunlops
- Has fully adjustable Ikeya arms for full caster/camber/toe adjustment.
- We have a Cusco front sway bar but only a stock factory sway bar on the back (is this a bad idea?)
- Shocks at the moment are HKS Hypermax III
- Weighs close to stock (only the interior, sound deadening, air con, hi-cas removed)
- Is used on a pretty smooth track that is only a few years old. Has quite a few cambered corners and some elevation changes.
Please can you guys list what spring rates you use for the track and what you think would be the best for us.
We plan on buying Eibach springs as we have a dealer fairly close to us.
A friend runs 900 fronts and 650 rears (he would like to drop to 500) on his R32 GTR circuit car.
I'm happy to provide any more info if it helps.
Cheers.
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Cheers chaps, we dropped the ball joint out threaded the nut back on and dominated them with a trusty old claw hammer.
Had to get the angle grinder and cut off wheel into action and cut about 15mm of thread off the studs to clear the CVs out the way out.
Holy smokes has it messed with out alignment
Had some extreme toe in couldn't really move it up the driveway. Did some dodgy string line and steel rule adjusting though until we drop it in for an alignment.
Apart from the front toe what other settings would the roll centre adjusters have changed?
(Yes hardware is not tight yet)
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Hi guys,
We're finally getting around to installing the Ikeya front roll centre spacers on the our R32 GTR but after removing the front lower control arm ball joint we're at the stage of needing to remove the studs that are pressed into the hub (see attached pictures if this doesn't make sense).
We need to remove these studs and use the Ikeya supplied hardware as the factory studs become too short with the added thickness of the spacers
Is there a way to remove these without taking the hub off the car and having to use a hydraulic press or similar?
We'd like to have the roll centre spacers on the car but don't know if we quite have the motivation to remove
the front hubs just to put these out.
Apologies if this has been covered elsewhere, I did a search but could only see info relating to removing the ball joints as opposed to the studs that hold the ball joint on.
Cheers chaps!
New hardware to be used
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Well back from the wilderness that is filming on location and back to reality
Not a lot has happened since the last update but we're hoping to have the car back together for some January trackdays.
Decided to finish the rears in a month or so and are hanging out to get the car on the track so have unfortunately put the stock brakes back on the rear.
Ended up getting a good deal on a set of new discs.
Made an extra set of caliper brackets on the water jet cutter and then milled a step in them. The new sets bolt holes are 2mm wider to push the caliper further to the edge of the disc.
Garage clutter
Hats are done and anodised black
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Small update, hot off the tools comes some new hats
From this
To this (still needs a bit of finishing)
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Rightio chaps,
Not a lot of news on the car front since July.
Bought a set of near new Michelin slicks (only done 12 laps at Taupo). They were used for a back to back test on a NZV8 car to see if the car would be quicker on the Michelins than the current regulation Dunlops. Apparently they were 2-3 seconds per lap quicker than the Dunlops.
We also bought a used brake package from an NZV8 race car for a very good price and got a few sets of brand new Performance Friction pads 01, 03 and 97 compounds, also a few spare sets of Performance friction front discs and Wilwood rears.
In an ideal world we would have splashed out for a set of used V8 Supercar Alcons but currently can't justify spending that kind of coin and were so sick of the factory R32 GTR brakes that we think this will be a good mid-way brake setup.
We have to design and make new brake hats and caliper brackets to get them to work with the GTR.
Front disc dummied up using washers to space out the NZV8 hat to get some measurements.
Front caliper brackets were whipped up at work on the water jet cutter out of 12mm plate
Rear dummied up, I think the easiest thing to do with the rear calipers is to re-drill them from the 135mm Wilwood bolt hole spacing down to 115mm Nissan spacing and we wont have to worry about a caliper bracket which looks pretty tricky for the rear.
Still not convinced there is enough free space to re-drill the caliper down from 135mm to 115mm.
Has anyone been down this path before?
Very very loose mock-up with the wheel on to check clearance.
Also bought a set of 17x9" Et20 BBS LMs
Here's our current front brake hat design, pretty confident it will work. Still not 100% certain on what diameter the centre bore should be and also what size to make the stud holes (we're aware the studs are M12).
The hats will be turned up on the CNC mill and lathe at work.
If anyone has been down this path before and sees any errors with our design or would like to add anything please let us know
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This is another amazing E30 M3 with an S62 M5 engine in it, it's a shame the owner has dropped off the radar.
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Looks good mate, I hope you've had a chance to open the Cosworth up
I had one before I sold it for an E30 M3 and then I sold my E30 M3 after I bought the GTR.
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Hi guys,
As per the title I'm trying to get around the rubbing issue of running a 265mm - 280mm wide slick with the stock Nissan R32 GTR front uprights/dog legs/goosenecks (whatever you want to call them
)We're moving up to an 18x10.5" and or 18x11" Enkei RPF1 or TE37 SL rim and want to run either a Dunlop or Michelin slick to suit.
Are there any companies out there that make these to accommodate a wider rim?
I've done a bit of searching so apologies if this has been covered elsewhere.
Ollie.
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No worries,
In my opinion there's not any good motorsport specific forums in New Zealand.
All the NZV8 cars will be getting a whole bunch cheaper soon as the series is ending here as they are making way for the V8 Supertourers http://www.v8supertourers.co.nz/
R32 Gtr Circuit Car Build Thread
in Motorsport Builds
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Yea mate, car was sold in March thankfully. New owner crashed it a few weeks back.