Supa Steve
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Posts posted by Supa Steve
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How did the engine fail? It wasn't from excessive cylinder pressure lifting the head, breaching the head gasket, hydrolocking a cylinder and bending/or throwing a rod?
My engine builder uses Nitto gaskets and has pushed them a long way without issue, maybe another factor influenced the damage.
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yer ill prob get new bushes also need gudeon pins for the pistons
you may have misunderstood. the factory bush fitted to the nissan gtr rods is very high quality so thats another reason they are a good option. you will rarely need to replace them. just get a set that have good little ends already.
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pm's replied, still here folks!
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yer jus usin a set of rb25 cp 86.5 with a rb25 crank
the good thing about using Nissan 26 rods is you get a good quality little end bush. This is where some of the cheap conrods often fall short of the mark.
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GTR rods if you want to be a tight arse, $150 for the 6 and will do the job, need pistons to suit
rod length is the same so 25 pistons will be fine, only need to change pistons if using a 26 crank.
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my old built 25 in the VL was making 350kw and when the engine was pulled down it had 3 bent rods. it only had a fresh set of bolts fitted so im very lucky to not have thrown one.
rb26 ones are a lot stronger than 25's so if cheap upgrade is what you are after they may suit.
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to those pm'ing about warranty, Paul stands by his work and is prepared to provide start-up warranty as well as advice on run-in procedure etc.
his after sales service is excellent and looks after customers long after engine is installed running and tuned.
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The Red R ones are pretty good as they have proper swing gates and baffles instead of the slosh buckets that only hold extra oil.
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Supa Steve,
Can you ask your mate, Paul, to either call me and/or send me my oil pump please. He seems to be uncontactable.
you may need to leave a message if you cant get hold of him NX. Ive got to call them tommorrow to arrange an inspection of the engine for a buyer so ill let Paul know.
PM's replied to.
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widest slot mate
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Fresh RB25 for sale built to same spec as NYTSKY's 430rwkw engine by Red R Racing
Acid dipped, crack tested, bored and strainer plate honed block
crack tested, cross drilled and grub screwed crankshaft
resized, honed and cryo treated RB26 conrods with ARP bolts fitted
CP 86.5mm forged piston kit with custom Red R ring package
ACL race series engine bearings
Nissan N1 oil pump and water pump
Gates timing belt kit with pulleys
cometic 1.2mm head gasket
fully reco'd cylinder head
HKS 256/264 camshafts
OS giken exhaust cam gear
HKS 850cc injectors
Twin scroll stainless manifold
50mm external gate
plazmaman inlet manifold
80mm throttle body
engine is only missing a turbo as im using the t04z twin scroll on my 30/26 engine.
it comes with an option of a Red R 8.5 litre sump fitted
this combo is a proven performer built by one of the best RB builders in aust.
$8900 or $9500 with race sump
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If you look on the stock rod you'll see one side has a small hole coming from the main end journal that would squirt oil under the piston crown/ inner wall, this is in addition to the squirters bolted to the block. If you're using a forged piston which has better heat dissipation by design then I don't see how not having the stock rods for this purpose (oil cooling the pistons) would be too bad. Can't see how not having it would have any contribution to oil starvation, the oil squirts out of it away from the bearing...........
I really like the look of Tomei rods, they're about 1100 out of Japan at the moment. And maybe a little wait. I also like the look of Nitto. I also like the look of most shiny new trick-machined metal. I'm not aware of aftermarket rods for stock displacement that interfere with the squirters.
Stock rods are good for 400rwkw+ but you need to use ARP rod bolts and have the main ends of the rods re-sized after the bolts are installed.
As far as porting the head goes, I imagine it'll depend on what cams and turbo combination you have as to whether you get gains- for street-type setup I just relieve the excess 'bump' in the exhaust ports to create a smoother path to the port, it should improve response a bit if nothing else. (If you're using stock exhaust manifolds you can also port match the manifold to exhaust turbine for better response- helpful on a 2.6 with larger turbos).
good post with correct info.
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sorry but I don't agree with nismoid. yes an aftermarket pump WILL empty the sump. it's a bloody simple equation. how much can the pump flow in 1min of operation at XXX RPM. then look at how much oil can pass through the oil galleries in that time (it's much less, only gravity to help it). it's a dangerous thing.
a nitto pump will flow 64.8 litres per minute, that is 1.1 litre per second. now with only just on 4 litres in an RB26 sump it will take just 4 seconds at 7,000rpm to empty the sump of oil. but in that 4 seconds of running the engine may return 1 litre of oil through the oil galleries to the sump. so after 4 seconds we have 1 litre in the sump, another second sees another 1.1 litre pumped up, and sees another 250ml return, so you could easily see that after about 6 seconds of 7,000rpm+ running you no longer have a drop of oil in the sump. add to that, that you are pulling some accell G at this moment meaning oil is away from the pick-up then in reality things probably go wrong a bit sooner.
note, the figure of 1L per min of oil returning through the stock head and block galleries is just a random number, it's been roughly calculated before at a given viscosity of oil how much can get in there, but it varies a bit depending on vacuum/pressure conditions in the crankcase etc too. but that's around what it is. even if you double it, things won't go much better.
all this basically tells us is that upgrading the oil pump with a standard sump is a bad idea. If you are adding 30% to what the pump can flow (and adding nothing to how quickly that oil can return), then you should be adding 30% to the sump capacity too.
as far as what power do you have to upgrade? There is no set figure, but I will say this. most of the circuit cars I've been invloved with were fine at 350kw on semi slicks. once they hit 380, 400kw etc on new semis (and with good drivers) they suddenly started having oil system problems all the time. it's just too much power, too much G force and not a good enough system. of those guys, the ones that went to dry sump systems now live happily on the track at 450kw+. honestly I reckon if you have that much power in a track car you should have the brakes to go with it ($10K+), the safety gear to go with it (full cage) and the right oiling system to protect that 450kw engine (dry sump, cost around $8-$10K.).
Mate you obviously have some experience with these cars other than with a keyboard and screen in front of you. Anyone who thinks they can reliably track these cars with an N1 pump is a fool and also tracking one with a Nitto/JUN/Tomei using a stock sump is also. Nismoid only tells half the story as when i had a lengthy chat to Racepace about building me an engine there were little things like enlarged oil drains and wider rod bearings etc that were mentioned. Racepace build the engine to suit the pump but to suggest on here that others can blindly fit one is like saying a snake charmer can play a flute to a cobra and not get bitten so they must not be deadly.
Red R have an engine at their shop to fix that was built in Brisbane that has bent a 30 crank 4mm after 2 laps of Queensland raceway because they tried using a Nitto pump with a stock sump. They have also ran an N1 pump harder than most early in the piece in their drag car that survived hell for 3 years but again this is a properly built and prepared engine.
Unless you have guys who know how to build around the pump like Racepace, Red R etc. id steer clear of the N1 timebomb.
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Throwing ideas out atm in regard to an engine I am planning. My original idea was to run a 26 head with HKS vcam but if the 25 head with the right springs etc can rev hard enough on hydro lifters it would be a more cost effective option.
WWhat sort of revs have you seen from a hydraulic lifter 25 head. I am thinking i need to get to around 9000 rpm to achieve the desired result.
Mate id suggest you get in contact with Paul at Red R Racing as he sent me a text the other day saying that they have their custom RB26 VCS head sorted. Looks like it may suit your needs perfectly.
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I would invest the money into a Nitto item.
Well said mate. The Nitto will save you the additional expense of having to pull your engine later when the other pump dies. Its the only pump on the market that has not suffered gear failure and each pump is assembled/clearanced checked by the engineer who designed it not some monkey on an assembly line.
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Im new to GTR's and RB26's and ive followed some of your posts and know you know your shi't so i'll go and check the cam timing, i was quiet dissapointed with the power output myself as I have spent quiet a bit on a combo that i thought would make alot more HP. Im sure its not just in the tune and I agreee that in must have a problem somewhere hence asking on SAU.
Cheers for your input, get back to you soon!
good to see one of the VL boys come over to the twin cam world.
Chris, check that there hasn't been a rag left in the cooler pipe from the last owner's effort and get the exhaust sorted. If you are going Jap brand name core the Trust items from what ive been told are the most efficient at scrubbing temp and also flow better than most and im pretty sure Blitz use the same cores as Trust but obviously use their own end tanks. Plazmaman cores seem to be getting good press too if looking to source a local product
good luck with it.
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guys the anti drain back flap will pass oil till the pressure eventually forces it to completely block flow. Im sure if you cut open the filter the anti drain back flap would be marked where it was forced against the holes. If it had no anti drain flap it may have been filter element or bypass failure as ive also seen the filter membrane eventually collapse from running in reverse and also the internal bypass valve collapse in others. Get the filter and inspect it as there are clues left at every crime scene that tell the story of what happened, you just need to be experienced enough to know where to look.
Engines dont mysteriously loose oil pressure then have it return unless there is a root cause. When you consider it only occurred after the engine had been worked on and now pressure has returned after it had been again worked on with no component change leaves no doubt it was some human error that had caused it.
What size sump does it have? As the only other thing that may have happened is the nitto pump has emptied the sump during the 40mins and the oil system had developed a big air lock unable to move any oil that had since returned. Just a thought.
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Experience tells me whoever did the pump change put the oil cooler/relocator lines ass about and this fed pressure up the inside of the oil filter forcing it to reverse flow. This mistake has caused the engine to starve of oil due to the anti drain back valve inside the filter. When it was returned to the person who did this they realised what they had done and put them around the right way. They then gave away they may have already knew the cause by posting this line on the internet I have covered everything twice and simple things like the oil filter installation is correct.
I could be wrong but as you asked for advice from someone with experience i thought i might give some.
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283.8rwkw at 1bar.
unsure about R33's in awd though. the above figure was a bit hard to believe until i was shown proof that it was correct. minimal mods too!
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Matt, you will have to pop the front crank seal out of it to tell. But from what ive been told all 32 update cars had the longer drive crankshafts 9/93 onwards.
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i put trident in the same basket as ryco. they work 99% of the cases but everynow and then one comes along and f**ks you right up lol. Ive had a few trident products prematurly fail in the past.. but i realise that like any mass produced item, nothings guarenteed.
i picked up a dayco 77degree unit
Nismo make a 65deg (or around that) one. Due to the engine vs radiator height on the VL plus the height of the turbo water lines etc if its high mounted needs a header tank to ensure cavatation bubbles at high rpm are bled from the system.
I can run the engine very hard on a hot day and not have an issue, but id say the late opening of the thermostat you had may have been your issue as this would have severely decreased the efficiency of your radiator.
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what fuel pump?
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ive put a few engines togther over the years but when it comes to high revving long crankshaft engines its best left to the guys who really know them inside out.
Red R build more RB's than anyone in this country and thats all they do. It was a simple choice to make when i decided to throw some big bucks at my current engine.
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I called in to see Paul yesterday as he is home from hospital and although he has some permanent nerve damage to his thumb, forefinger and right arm he is ok. When he arrived at emergency his ecg printout showed he was on the verge of cardiac arrest and was rushed straight to the intensive care resusitation unit for treatment. Definately one lucky fella who should be heading to the closest newsagent and filling his pockets with lotto tickets. Daily calcium tablets and blood tests are keeping a close eye on him but appears other than the nerve damage he will be just fine.
He would like to thank all the people who sent messages of support both here and via text/email.
Where Is Best Place To Get Rb26 Cnc Porting Done And Head Built
in Forced Induction Performance
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they are in the process of moving website from the twoogle.com domain to redrracing.com so it would be easier/faster to call 0448822360 direct.