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Posts posted by Lonewolf1983
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bit OT but for the people asking about VQ tuning, http://www.uprev.com/
I believe WA has the only real-time dyno tuning agent (Tokyo motorsports), but looks like they do mail order stuff too
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also look similar to the Ford 6pot brembo's
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AFM clip that holds the plug in is broken, suggest buyer glues the plug on and wont be a drama.
Price drop to $350 if you take both items
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or get a quaife to go straight into the factory box, depends how cheap you can get an S15 diff + shafts for
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no, but you can buy them brand new from Justjap
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price drop to $200 each
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6x 444cc GTR injectors - apparently cleaned and flow tested by previous owner $250
Z32 AFM + plug, $250
Will ship at your cost, or pickup from Perth
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seeing mum at lunch, shant be attending
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what time and where?
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bout the only dvd's im happy to pay for, even if I can download for free.
Real shame, was looking forward to seeing more modern stuff in the old formats
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same as any N/A motor, exhaust, extractors, cats, intake, cams, tune.
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ended up doing it clockwise and seemed to improve?
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can anyone confirm which direction I am supposed to turn the rod?
I have tried both ways and seem to be making no headway
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If there is a lot of dead space before the clutch bites, is this meaning the clutch is worn?
Is there anything I can do to adjust the bite point of the clutch?
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took out the car to time attack last night.
Wasnt very fast, huge learning curve coming from FWD n/a cars to a RWD turbo on the track.
Ended up with a loose bolt on the power steering pump coming undone and covering my engine bay with fluid, not sure how to clean it out yet given all the electricals in that area.
Have decided that I really should get some more seat time before I go hunting for more power, the car likely has 4-5 seconds of time to gain just from a better driver.
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are you sticking with the RB20?
did you get brake fade with the R34 brakes?
and does the wing actually make a difference on the track?
great build!
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as mentioned, its the torque that will be the issue with the rb20 box/clutch, even at the same end power level.
Nistune alone is an extra $800-$1000 on top of your $3k RB30, so you've blown it by 25% right there.
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Very Tidy!
great fitment with those rims, considering going white for my rims too
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there aint nothin like a neat r32 in black!!!
i like it.
ps: there are a couple of realy good reasons why splitfires are more expensive than 'yellow/red/green'- purple jackrts
In the end, they do the same job and have 3x the warranty at about 1/2 the price. I couldnt be happier with them.
Love the black P1s. Mmmmm.
Also, hilarious numberplate
I've been considering changing the colour to white as I love that colour contrast, pain in the ass to keep clean though!
and yeah the plates are good, got a big laugh from the shannons guy when I was getting insured
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As crazy as this sounds mate, what about this:
RB30 Block, Crank, rods and Pistons (Basically a running short block motor) - $50
New standard Size Hastings Rings - $120
New Standard Sized King Bearings all round - $140
Acid Bath, Hone, Deck Block - $300
Crank Collar and Fitting - $200
Head Gaskt ARP - with Fire Rings - $45
Cometic 3 layer Steel Exhaust Gasket (ebay) - $40
Tappet Cover Gaskets - $15
Front and Rear main seal $100
Cam Shaft Seals - $40
Loctite of Various sorts - $100
RB25 Head - $500
RB25 head recon - $600 (Deck, recut valves, Valve tip heights, weld VCT hole) ((I had 1 hour of porting done on the exhaust side, for $100. Made a huge difference)
Helicoils for Exhaust Side Studs $100
Autobarn Greddy Copy Chrome Intake Manifold - $350 (MUCH better than the ebay ones..!! Comes with all fittings and bolts)
Bolts of Various sorts - $50
Total: $2750
How do I know? I did it the weeks between xmas 2010 and new year 2011.
TIPS:
- You put it all together. Don't over pay some other flamin mongrel to do it. Surely you have a mate that is a mechanic. A real mate, not just some dude up the road you know of. Took me about 2 weeks to do a full assembly. Trust me, its not hard. Just make sure you find and engine that hasn't been trashed. Mine came from an old guy that crashed it. The VL had only done 140,000s and was like new. Still had hone marks. The hone I had done to it made it come up like new. Was about half a thou ovaled.
- GET THE HEAD RECONNED! You won't regret it.
- Get GTR cams, or NA RB25 CAMs, and don't run VCT. Then you can do a cheap remap of your RB20 ECU, or get a Nistune Daughter board.
- Run the RB25 turbo and limit your revs to about 6,000. Trust me, you'll be smoking the tyres from 1200rpm all the way to 5,000rpm with that turbo.
- Save up for the next 6 months and get a GTX3076 turbo and enjoy 320rwkws with f**koads of torque.
There is your RB30 slapper that will take 300rwkw easier than a hooker being given 2 kgs of crack to give you a blow job.
Thats all good, but what about the ancillary stuff?
AFM
Injectors
ECU
Tune
Fuel pump
etc
My recommendation:
Injectors
nistune
AFM
2nd hand turbo of some sort
Pushing it for $3k though
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pretty well (shitloads better than std), but depends on your body size.
definitely agree that you should sit in all your options and decide from there
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have GTR seats in mine as its only a sometimes racer.
If doing more track work i'd go for something fixed back or tighter, but I like some room to move on the street, and as you mentioned 100% legal.
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yep, full boost should be approx 3500rpm.
get a turbotech ball+spring boost controller or an EBC if you dont already
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