99 rs4
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Posts posted by 99 rs4
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Can't for the life of me remember which colour the box was, but it had a few wires going in (more than I expected) and covered all the beeping functions including reverse which I was trying to kill. It also seemed to control the remote start for my car.
there may be a few different boxes depending on series and options
Yes mines the same. It's white and has a small metal bracket on the side to bolt it in place above the fuse box. It does all the tones and locks etc and I'm pretty sure it does lights. Does any one know where I can get a new one from? Remote start sounds cool if I can get one with this
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it will say smart entrance on the side of it. they are common with R33 as well. that does the majority of the body stuff. the locks and lights also loop through the cluster. SE module is a possible culprit.
Im not sure mine is the same? are you talking about S1 or S2? Mines S2 and i think it could be different. All the things you describe dont seam to be behind my dash bits? I found the TCU and looked it up on google, got a bunch of stuff in jap and russian but i translated it and it seams to be the part im looking for? It does the key in ignition and reversing tones, it also controls the door locks. Im kinda sure it does the interior light timing and a few other things, but not 100% My fuse box also has some relays on it but when i trace my door switch wires i can only get them back to the TCU....
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Not much TBH - sold all the obvious stuff - just have some odd relays and sensors left.
Ok I hav the white TCU (timing control unit) out of the car. I'm pretty sure it's what I need (looked up the part number was all in jap so google translated it) I'll try to put up a pic ( haven't done it before
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Ok. So on top of the fuse box is a white box which wen I pulled pulled out was able to continuity test out the wire from the door switch to its connector. It's a sealed unit with some holes on top (im thinking it has buzzer or something in it.
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I've got cluster out and appart. Nothing really seams to look like a control unit. Behind the cluster is the PE cell for auto head lights is the timer in there? I'm thinking not. I pulled out the black box next to the fuses , it's the bell for making annoying noises, is it in there? Other wise I'm in struggle town with our a map...
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the dash cluster (speedo etc) has the BCM inside it. that runs the the lights. there is also a smartentrance module next the the fusebox that also drives the lights. this is more for the S1 though.
BCM? I hav the cluster out nothing seams obvious or easily replaced for that matter. What's the control box look like? Black and too the left of fuse box by any chance?
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its body controlled. cluster runs it.
Pls explain? Ie what am I looking for/ pulling apart to find it? Cheers
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It is likely the timer is controlled by a box not just a relay....
Ok I thought so. Where is it?? I'm bout to get out of bed and start my search
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ok no probs. will sus out the relay tomorrow, well try to find it, and let you know if i need yours. Cheers
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Thanks for that i had thought of that. Ill have to try to find it. That is the S1 fuse layout, i have a S2. But thanks for the thought. I already found the S2 one and know its not a fuse. Just need to find that relay..... if anyone knows that would be a great help, and if it is the problem i would like to grab that one from your "bin of stagea spares" lol what else is in that bin out of interest?
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Hi guys, just recently my interior lights wont work when I open the door. It's not fuse related (well I don't think) and not bulb related. Nor is it light fitting related (I swapped rear to front) the rear works great but the front only works if you turn it to the "on" position. The door switches are working and the open door symbol on the dash works when the key is turned and the "key in ignition" bell works when you open the door. I get 12.45vdc at the door and I know it's only switching the ground but I can't buy this one out? Is there a relay or something else controlling interior lights?? Any help on this would be greatly appreciated.
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I have this same problem. Im pretty sure its the tyres too. I just put newies on the front and kept old no name shit on the rear to wear out. My left is more worn (i like to stick the ass out on the left
) and yer the shuddering is really starting to piss me off. I will get new tyres and see if it fixes it and let you know? -
No updates. pretty much untouched for the last 6 months. Just enjoying driving it after 2-3 years off the road.
I did fit the red recaro's, but since sold them to Aaron at importmonster for his car.
I need to finish the roof rails and do RH CV boots. It has the jap radio, so only get some AM stations. How sad.
No new engine as planned, happy with rb25 at the moment.
Have been spending money on other things like new parts from China, FMIC kits and 4WD snorkels etc.
Bought a another caravan yesterday. I have different priorties at the moment.
Must be time for a QLD crusie again thuo.
How do you go about getting things from Masa? i have only just started looking at doing this conversion to my car, got some repo gards from ebay but Masa has heaps of cool stuff im keen on, just cant view it cause its all in jap?
PS car looks horn mate good work!
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Andrew unfortunately you got sucked in to buying cheap quality shocks which I will mention most of the inner hardware comes from Taiwan, Pedders Australian...Not.
I've been in the suspension game for a few years now and where I work we set up many cars for road/track/rally/drift/drag/tarmac rally's you name it. We sell and recommend the following;
1.KYB's, they're good quality replacement shocks made in Japan for Japanese vehicles
around $1000 for a set.2. Koni, they're better quality performance sport shock designed for standard or lowering springs with external rebound adjustments, made in Germany, set you back $1200 for a set.(not incl labour & W/A)
3.Bilstein, Once again great quality shock only difference from the Koni's are that they are not externally adjustable & the valving is set better for comfort on harsh roads especially when lowering, again they are made in Germany & would set you back $1800 for a full set.
That being said I would personally go with the Koni's as they are not too expensive and if you were to lower your car they would certainly work well being firm but not overly harsh & of course they are rebuildable once you've clocked 200,000klms with them in the car!
Don't worry mate just remember for next time you need shocks, DONT GO TO PEDDERS!!
Oh and coil/overs are not necessary for a road car, if your tracking it totally different story, you would be far better off with Koni or Bilstein shocks and lowering springs then any cheap coil/over kit trust me.
Cheers.
Where are you guys based?? I have 99 stagea RWD do you guys have anything to suit it?? (want to lower by at least 60mm) C
Cheers
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Friend has a stagea 1998 series 2 WGC34 and the front struts have 3 top bolts? I though all stagea models (except M35) had the 2 top bolts like R33/R34??
I have a 99 stag WGC34 n yerp 3 bolts too.
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Hi was just wondering if anyone had lower springs for my stagea? (1999 rb25det neo, RWD) OR what is the best option for lowering that doesn't cost the world? King springs dont make springs for it? So also if some one has lowered their car (same spec as mine or a least same springs) could i have a lend of a front and rear spring to give to king springs as sample sp they can make me new ones and so my car doesnt have to be off the road??? Help on this would be really appreciated.
Cheers
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Ok this is my first post.. Im new to this world of nissan. I have recently got a 99 stagea rwd auto. Its a RB25det Neo. Is this a r33 or 34 motor? Now having made my self look a twat to all you hard core nissaners could this conversion be done to my stag?? If so has anyone done it?? I like my car its very clean and low kms so i think its worth the effort? any opinions and suggestions would be great.
Interior Light Problems
in Wagoneers
Posted
Ok so decided to give up on the control box. Too expensive and hard to find to care. So what I did (which was my original plan) was to hook up under dash and rear seat foot well lighting and do away with the control box and timer etc. If you have this problem and need it fixed the control box replacement will fix it. But in the process of doing my foot well lights I got rid of the annoying beeping, HOWEVER! It also gets rid of the "head lights on" tone and this could result in some flat battery's! Just remember to turn your lights off
Ill put pics up of my lights tomorrow 