DR JOSH
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Posts posted by DR JOSH
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DR Josh, "another reason why I don't bother with this place", and yet here you are. The thread was sorted days ago. stfu.
My point exactly I'm lucky to come in here once a month if that to have a look and rarely ever post in here.
I have been on the recieving end of Ghostriders rubbish before as far as I'm concerned why post in here and have any type of input when I just cop flack for it? You may even get new people posting in here if this type of shit didnt go on.
I dont give a shit about people having their opinions on a way a car is modified (I know I have mine) but it seems more often then not it is taken a few steps too far and turned into a personal attack as is proven earlier in this thread
How come so many people are copping flack in this section, when there is really only one offender?Because the "offender" seems to be buddy buddy with the only moderator that comes in here
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Another thread f**ked by Ghostrider, something different.
Another reminder why I dont bother with this place
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You can take chassis dyno torque figures with a grain of salt, only real way to get torque figures is on an engine dyno.
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my car has "yellow" line from 6000 - 6500 then Red from 6000 - 8000.
I don't want the dyno dude doing an 8000, it's just too much for the car and with the stock radiator fan 4000+ sounds like an airoplane.
according to engine plate max power is made at 5600rpm anyway, so going 6500 i think would all it'd really need.
Thanks cam, does yours have aftermarket radiator fan?
It'll be fine, on a power run the dyno operator will only rev it till it starts dropping power and that will be way before it gets even close to 8000rpm probably closer to 5000-5500rpm on an L-block
Be warned if you've never had you car on a dyno before it can be worrysome watching it stand up for the first time
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I reckon it is one and the same, but now it's smashed front and rear so it's probably not even worth $20
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Doesnt really sound to me like your injectors are blocked, it sounds more like they are dead. It would be worth while to just pay the $100 or so and get them all tested, and cleaned. That way you would know that you have a near new set of injectors which are all flowing the same
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Awesome mate, well done
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It shouldn't, that's what I didn't get either
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So your injectors are pulsing but not spraying any fuel? Or are they just not doing anything at all?
My injectors sat for 5 years + before I used mine without any dramas
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Those rear gaurds look terrible.
And in a setup car 350HP isnt much of a handful at all, have driven KE30, datto 1600, bluebird and EVO6 tarmac rally car in excess of that and they were all good as and super fast around Mallala
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I have 2 aussie spec gaurds on the front of my DR, the only difference I found with them was the holes for the badge and the holes for the pod of the DR body add ons, which was as easy to change as drilling 3 small holes.
Never understood why people pay so much for DR gaurds, mine cost $20 each for mint ones from the wreckers
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Bit of a change of heart over the past 2 months then I take it
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Yup I sourced them through nissan, they were alot cheaper then I expected
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looking back at that youtube clip i cannot see Vettel dropping a tyre off the track....once vettel got infront of Webber he moved to the right to get a better line into the corner and expected webber to move as well...which didnt happen
Webber held his line the whole time. Why should he drop his line and a shit load of pace just to let a pushy team mate fit in where there was no room
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This knancross and what not is something I'm really keen to have a crack at one of these days, I have enough cars around the place I can use, I just always seem to be too busy. Building cars then fixing them all for mates none of my own cars.
Gonna have to look into it
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Rx7 injectors arent very good for use in cylinder motors, the spray pattern is not very nice and most of the time you'll struggle to get a decent idle. They are a decent size for cheap but your better off spending that little bit more for some proper injectors.
I bought a set for my motor originally back in the day, and we had to go through 8 or 9 injectors before we found 4 that flowed the same and werent f**ked
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My car isnt gonna make it, it's currently in a heap of pieces and wont be anywhere near ready. Will probably come out for a look at the track day, not interested at all in the show and shine
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Nice! I want
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You will never get 15k for a DR30
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My mates old man works at A1 steering and suspension at seaford, they would probably be able to help
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the pintara cross member works because the CA20 that comes in them uses the same mounts a CA/SR motor... one of my mate put a CA18 in and that was different... the standard CA20 box bolts up to a CA18 also... maybe that would be the path to go
otherwise the SR will be great but you need a SR box to and possibly a custom tailshaft
hope i can help
CA20 boxes are also f**king shit and will be blown up in no time. I know I ran one behind my CA18det bluey which was dead standard apart from exhaust and still shat a box
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I'm gonna try and have my car ready for the track day, hopefully I dont pop a motor before then. No show and shine for my POS however
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Put a Pintara front crossmember in your car, and it's pretty much a bolt in job. But no your current gearbox wont bolt up to an SR20, you will need an SR box.
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What type of fitment you chasing? Do you want an aggressive offset or???
This is my car when I bought it, with 15 x 7 +10 sits in quite a bit.
My car now a touch more aggresive 17" x 10" +20 on the rear, wheels are still easily in the gaurds currently has 235 stretched on but it can and has fit 275 with no scrub.
Rebuild Or Update
in Classics (1953-1988)
Posted · Edited by DR JOSH
Have been through a rebuilt FJ box before and I wouldnt bother again myself, the syncros crapped themself pretty quickly afterwards with some spirited driving as the are fairly weak. One miss shift in the heat of the moment and they would be dead again.
As for gearbox options, I'm currently running an RB20DET twin syncro box, not the strongest box out (around the same strength as an FJ box though) but the syncros are smooth as, they are cheap (around $500) and I personally have seen them handle 200-220RWKW FJ20's fairly well with no dramas and they have very similar gear ratios as standard. Other then that there is the RB25 box if you are worried about popping boxes, you will never break a 25 box however these are expensive ($1500+)
Both need the same mods to fit which are fairly simple. Just need 2 top holes of the bell housing elongated, and your gearbox cross member will need to be modified as it sits about 1" further back, I have done 3 of these now for me and friends. Gearstick comes out in the standard position and tail shaft is the same for RB20 only need a new tail shaft for RB25/Z32 as they are longer and have a different output shaft
Then as others have said the Z32 option, I haven't mucked around with these before so dont know much about them except there are about 10 different variaties and gear ratios out there, and your looking about the same strength as an RB25 box.