Jump to content
SAU Community

sucram

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    278

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    0%

 Content Type 

Posts posted by sucram

    Borg Warner EFR Series Turbo's V 2.0

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    On 12/17/2016 at 4:31 PM, Happy Seal said:

    I tried out the 8374 and 7670 on an HKS bottom mount. Issue with the 8374 was the compressor inlet sits too close to the engine mount and also fouls the oil supply port on the block. 7670 sits much better, will have to use a sharp angle for the intake pipe right off the compressor to clear the mount. I'll dig up some pics and post them later. . .

     

    old solution was to add a spacer

    RB26 N1 Manifolds, any better?

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted

    If I was given N1 manifolds I would use them, but I would not pay for them since the difference is so minor and can be done with about 30 mins and a die grinder.

    If you go larger in I.D generally you will loose port speed and incur lag. Sometimes with no appreciable top end gain. You can make up some of it with collector design but with low mounts you are limited.

     

     

    [Closed] Borg Warner Efr Series Turbos

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    No doubt the twin 6258 spools well for an 800 hp set up, but if youre comparing it to the dog shit 100% stock car that is lazy below 4k rpm its sort of unfair.

    An rb26 that has stock turbos can build 5psi no prob at 2k rpm when basic mods are done. Mine would toot around in 5th grear with 255/35/18's at 60kph. 6258 are atleast 100hp each more and with runners that are not optimal for low power/rpm/boost tootleing around. No way would it have factory type drivability which is of concern for most who like in a major metro city in australia which does not have the open type roads America has.

    Lets Talk Water Meth Injection

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    You really need to push it to see real gains with wmi. If you only put a few degrees in it you might see a few hp. Its when you up the boost and lean on it is where it shines.

    Down side is one blocked jet and your stressing everything. For this reason im now leaning towards larger single jet and as always good filters.

    Also someone mentions a 22 psi trigger point which is fine, so long as you start leaning onion it after your switch point. Even with solenoids on the jet you always run the chance of a small air bubble from cruising vacuum, decel etc.

    Also, meth is good but can corrorde jets etc like someone mentioned. Im trialing some light machine oil mixed with the meth, then mixing water and a few drops of dawn for mix ability to extend nozzle cleaning intervals. I also want to try r30 oil which is a good mineral oil used in rotas and 2smokes. i had to switch mine off and run a straght pump tune since the mrs is using it atm. I wss running 50!50 by weight. Another thing i want to try is less meth until i need to back something off in the tune.

    As always lots of playing around.. best to learn to tune yourself before hand

    Shameless plug i still have a brand new aquamist 1s system for sale. See sig

    Ceramic Coatings - Dumps and Front Pipes.

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    Going to get the gate pipes done as well, as discussed I don't think it will make much of the way in performance gains but im really only trying to stop the radiating heat.

    Sucram im just doing up to the cat for the moment, then once its running again ill get the rest of the system done. Im also getting the gate itself done (not the diapgram part) but the part where the gasses flow,once again to reduce radiating heat.

    Wont do much, but your basically only paying for the materials so you may as well get it done.

    If you leave the exhaust, you probably wont get it done, just like I have constantly put it on the back burner.

    FWIW I have no faith that such a thin coating of ceramic does anything to restrict heat transfer. There is a reason we use massively thick refractory on our vessels.

    I couldn't get my head around it either. Until I needed heat management on a bike as it was basically unrideable in summer or any period of traffic, with leathers on. Coating made it a non issue even in shorts!

    From what I recall, the inside layer absorbs/reflects some heat and the outside insulates or contains it. Its about slowing down temp spikes which reduces the surfaces overall and peak temps. Once coated you might notice that it stays warmer for longer. This is why I never get my intake coated because in my mind I think it will be heat soaked for longer and hotter which is debateable.

    On a ship the engine is inside which I assume has little air flow, so insulating is the only option. If you have a flange that is 1 foot thick I doubt you will warp it and im guessing housing walls are really thick too. Also, the insulation used in industrial might have the initial thinner layer quite loose and then a tightly packed secondary layer.

    Compared to a turbo beanie in a car that is randomly and tightly packed, along with heat cycles you get the same effect of layers peeling off on the housing. Where industrial might run for days/weeks/months and with room to have massively thick layers. Even when shut off might be a few hundred deg C for days. This relatively low heat cycle might be maybe 2 dozen in its life time. Most industrial/ship engines run at a constant load and relative heat unlike a car which sees wild temp spikes in short periods in comparison.

    Don't get me wrong, im not anti beanie, as they do work and work very well. Its just the toll they take when directly on a housing. On a low mounted turbo rotary you have no option but to use one as its so close to the intake. But back then there wasn't any real heat shields available. So now you can run housing, air gap, heat shield, benie or insulate and then intake manifold and basically no heat cycle fatigue.

    Ceramic Coatings - Dumps and Front Pipes.

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    Full race manifolds are basically a stainless steam pipe

    If you compare it to a china manifold, while it might be 2.8-3.1mm thick, the way they are made vary greatly, they are mig'd then a tig is run over to make it look like its been tig'd. Penetration varies and hot spots cant be seen as they "polish" them.

    I would coat the lot.

    I would even coat the exhaust all the way to the rear muffler. The heat off even the cat back section increases cabin temps, if you have carpet it will start to deteriorate the carpet just in front of your passenger seat on the hump for the cat. Even if it hasn't had a cat for 10 years! If you plan to track your car or drive in Sydney on 35deg + days its a no brainer, might cost an extra $80 since they can only do the outside but will reduce radiated heat

    Seen heaps of jap manifolds crack at the welds, its prob 99% of where I have seen cracks. Im not an expert on welding and can only do enough to get me by. If I had to say 1 reason, is because they are not really that thick and the weight of the turbo/gate/poorly hung exhaust cracks it or a combo of both.

    Brand New Z32 Afm And Plug (Genuine Nissan)

    in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)

    Posted

    Brand new Nissan Z32 AFM in the box, includes AFM plug with harness/lead

    Bought brand new before bosch even started supplying them, has

    sat in a box next to my PC for probably 6, maybe 7 years and

    was forgotten about. Have since gone to a MAP sensor about 5-6 years

    ago in the car it was going to go in.

    In the genuine Nissan box, I vaguely recall this cost over $550

    when I bought it which was well before bosch were able to supply

    an alternative.

    $350 FIRM

    Located Bankstown

    Can express post $12, add paypal fees if that's your preference,

    verified only or no fee for bank deposit.

×
×
  • Create New...